Cat Urine
Jim Kirk
Bought an older home. Removed carpeting. Previous owner had a cat.
Evidence left behind in the form of cat urine in carpets. I removed
the carpets but the smell remains. Now my cat tends to sniff around
that area. I'm afraid it might start doing the same thing. Any ideas
how to remove the smell and is there something on the market that will
deter my cat from doing the same thing (just short of a Smith &
Wesson!)
pelmark
In article <354fedb9...@news.iquest.net>, cap...@iquest.net
(Jim Kirk) wrote:
You are down to subfloor, or have you put down new carpet?
I am assuming you removed the carpet, the pad...how 'bout the tack
strips? WHat did you put over the subfloor, and what is the subfloor?
Wood or concrete?
You have to *seal* the urine in the subfloor. It cannot be removed. No
enzyme, mask, cleaning product, or neutralizer will remove dried
alkaline urine salts in either wood or concrete.
Mark
IICRC Certified Master Cleaning Technician
IICRC Certified Master Restoration Technician
Scott
Jim Kirk wrote in message <354fedb9...@news.iquest.net>...
>Bought an older home. Removed carpeting. Previous owner had a cat.
>Evidence left behind in the form of cat urine in carpets. I removed
>the carpets but the smell remains. Now my cat tends to sniff around
>that area. I'm afraid it might start doing the same thing. Any ideas
>how to remove the smell and is there something on the market that will
>deter my cat from doing the same thing (just short of a Smith &
>Wesson!)
Ah, from someone who moved in after 9 cats...
1) Get the old carpet up
2) Get the old tack strips up. Use a wonderbar.
3) Look around for subfloor areas that are black. Replace these.
4) Go to your local hardware store, get a 5 gallon (depending on the size of
your house),
a broom handle, and paint roller kit.
5) Put a nice liberal coat of water sealer over the entire subfloor. Don't
be bashful
about it.
6) Open the windows and abandon the house overnight. Don't forget the
canary.
Don't waste your money on enzymes, they don't work.
pelmark
In article <6iqsbj$rt3$1...@camel25.mindspring.com>, "Scott"
<sd...@anchor.hotmail.com> wrote:
You are hired. (-;
Don't use, however, a water sealer that is silicone based, like
Thompson's Water Seal. I use xylene, (respirator w/*fresh*
cartridges!!!!) because it will *never* permeate the odor...not even
from dead body contamination/crime scenes. Sorry about being graphic,
but after a few hundred of these jobs, there is only one way, and
Scott is right.
You will *NEVER* remove dried alkaline urine salts from wood or
concrete. They have to be sealed so heat and moisture do not activate
the *source* of the odor which you *cannot* remove.
*Seal* it. If you *don't*..."I'll be *back*!"
On walls/baseboards, an alcohol based pigmented shellac. KILZ will do,
but I think BIN works better; has a better gas permability factor.
Tracy_...@idx.com
I have found a mixture of vinegar/warm water (1:1) to be effective in
neutralizing the odor. Very inexpensive, too!
If you check the bottle of Nature's Miracle you will see the main
ingredient is acetic acid, which, essentially, is household white
vinegar.
Spray the area in question and let dry. You may have to repeat this
process as an attempt to get the mixture into the floor as deep as the
cat urine (are we talking finished wood floor or wood subfloor?)
Good Luck!
Tracy
On Wed, 06 May 1998 00:12:17 -0700, Tina Phi <tp...@netscape.com>
wrote:
>Jim,
>
>You should use an enzyme-based cleaner. There are certain enzymes which
>digest/neutralize urine -- my favorite product is "Nature's Miracle".
>You can find it at pretty much any major pet supply store (at least here
>in CA.)
>
>-Tina Phi
Scott
pelmark wrote in message <6iqump$9...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...
>In article <6iqsbj$rt3$1...@camel25.mindspring.com>, "Scott"
><sd...@anchor.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Jim Kirk wrote in message <354fedb9...@news.iquest.net>...
>> >Bought an older home. Removed carpeting. Previous owner had a cat.
>> >Evidence left behind in the form of cat urine in carpets. I removed
>> >the carpets but the smell remains. Now my cat tends to sniff around
>> >that area. I'm afraid it might start doing the same thing. Any
>ideas
>> >how to remove the smell and is there something on the market that
>will
>> >deter my cat from doing the same thing (just short of a Smith &
>> >Wesson!)
>>
I don't know about Benz, but Kilz is not exactly easy to work with. I'd
recommend
using a respirator with it, and make sure you have some mineral spirits
available
to at least clean your hands. I was using for the first time late at night,
and didn't
think I'd EVER get that stuff off me. I even tried gasoline, and that
didn't work.
What does the silicon based water sealer do/not do that xylene does? Is
that stuff
available to Joe Public? I just grabbed the cheapest 5 gallon can of sealer
I could find and
it did the job.
Of course, after I put new carpet down, I had to trim the bottoms of several
doors. The Urine
smell was trapped in the door bottoms (eww).
Whatever sealer I used, it worked great, considering that the carpet felt
like it was soaked
with vaseline (double eww) when a friend of mine and I pulled it up. I
still feel sorry for the
carpet guys that hauled it away in a box van.
In the basement, I mopped everything down with a bleach solution. That
seemed to help quite
a bit.
BTW--I don't think you could afford my billing rates from work... ;-> I
don't come cheap.
OTOH, I feel I probably saved $10,000 in fixing the problem versus the
previous homeowner
doing it, so it really was worth it. Now I've just got another $15,000 of
real renovation to do, and
I'll have a really nice house.
pelmark
In article <6j03bb$tmo$1...@camel19.mindspring.com>, "Scott"
<sd...@anchor.hotmail.com> wrote:
> I don't know about Benz, but Kilz is not exactly easy to work with.
I'd
> recommend using a respirator with it, and make sure you have some
mineral spirits
> available to at least clean your hands. I was using for the first
time late at night,
> and didn't think I'd EVER get that stuff off me. I even tried
gasoline, and that
> didn't work.
KILZ or BIN is not "easy" to work with, but then the problem is a
difficult one. In order to smell, a substance most be, even to the
slightest degree, soluble in water and lipids; if it is not, it will
never get past the water/lipid barriers over your olfactory nerves.
All odors are activated in the presence of heat and moisture, which is
why odor will suddenly "appear" when it has previously not been
present, when the proper conditions are met.
> What does the silicon based water sealer do/not do that xylene does?
Is
> that stuff available to Joe Public? I just grabbed the cheapest 5
gallon can of sealer
> I could find and it did the job.
Silicone is used as a true water-"proofer", and is quite effective at
it. Which is why such things as tents, camping gear, raincoats, canvas
awnings, etc, are often siliconed, as water will not penetrate
siliconed surfaces. In carpets and rugs, it should NEVER be used, as
soils actually bond to the silicone, and become impossible to remove.
If you have ever tried to clean a real soiled tent, say, you know how
difficult it is to clean them.
In this work, silicone will *not* prevent dried urine salts from
offgassing to the air. A different type of *sealer* must be used.
Whatever you used, it probably was not silicone, or you would be
smelling urine. The restortion industry tried and rejected silicones
years ago for sealing odor sources.
SIlicone will bead water, and is the best water proof treatment I know
of. Put a drop of *oil* on a silicone treated surface, and it will
*instantly* penetrate.
> Of course, after I put new carpet down, I had to trim the bottoms of
several
> doors. The Urine smell was trapped in the door bottoms (eww).
With **9** cats, I am surprised all the walls were not saturated.
> Whatever sealer I used, it worked great, considering that the carpet
felt
> like it was soaked with vaseline (double eww) when a friend of mine
and I pulled it up. I
> still feel sorry for the carpet guys that hauled it away in a box
van.
Maybe the residue of a couple hundred attempts with enzymes....
> In the basement, I mopped everything down with a bleach solution.
That
> seemed to help quite a bit.
Next time, use an *acid*; bleach is alkaline. The dried urine is
alkaline. To clean and remove, we *neutralize* pH. Bleach treated
concrete surfaces will not remove dried urine salts; we use an acid
used to clean pipes and porcelain...mild enough to be handled bare
handed, if one would wish to do so.
*Really* nasty concentrations: a much more concentrated acid to
literally etch the concrete surface.
But even vinegar will work quite well, in cleaning the surface of the
concrete. Of course, there are still *billions* of dried urine
crystals in the porous holes in the concrete you can *never* get out.
If you cannot *eliminate* the source of the odor, it *has* to be
sealed.
> BTW--I don't think you could afford my billing rates from work...
;-> I
> don't come cheap.
*Neither* do I.
> OTOH, I feel I probably saved $10,000 in fixing the problem versus
the
> previous homeowner doing it, so it really was worth it. Now I've
just got another $15,000
> of real renovation to do, and I'll have a really nice house.
If it is bad as what you have posted, it can *easily* hit that price.
I did one for $38,000. Cleaning, neutralizing, sealing can run to
$2.50--7.50 per square foot. You still have cartage and disposal.
Replacing carpet, pad, tack strips. Cleaning walls and baseboards.
Sealing and painting them.
I have a lady who 6 months ago rejected a bid at $850 to clean and
seal a bedroom. She simply replaced the carpet, and now her house
smells like urine, *again*, and her cat has died. Her *new* carpet is
contaminated by the subfloor. Unfortunately, she is going to have to
pay *twice* for what could have easily been done right, the first
time.
Now your original post was *exactly* the method used to control large
urine contaminations, and I just found it remarkable that someone
figured out the proper way to *control* the problem. It is difficult
for many homeowners to understand the problem, because we all think it
is just a simple "wipe-up and it is gone" type of problem. The source
of the odor is microscopic, and is virtually unremoveable, so it has
to be *sealed* to control odor formation.
Scott
>
>With **9** cats, I am surprised all the walls were not saturated.
Fortunately, with my case, they had "upstairs" and "basement" cats.
>
>> Whatever sealer I used, it worked great, considering that the carpet
>felt
>> like it was soaked with vaseline (double eww) when a friend of mine
>and I pulled it up. I
>> still feel sorry for the carpet guys that hauled it away in a box
>van.
>
>Maybe the residue of a couple hundred attempts with enzymes....
I don't know what it was, except one of the grossest things I've ever
dealt with.
>But even vinegar will work quite well, in cleaning the surface of the
>concrete. Of course, there are still *billions* of dried urine
>crystals in the porous holes in the concrete you can *never* get out.
>
Doesn't that make the area smell like a salad? That's almost going
from one extreme to the other...
>If you cannot *eliminate* the source of the odor, it *has* to be
>sealed.
>
>> BTW--I don't think you could afford my billing rates from work...
>;-> I
>> don't come cheap.
>
>*Neither* do I.
I'm sure.
>
>Now your original post was *exactly* the method used to control large
>urine contaminations, and I just found it remarkable that someone
>figured out the proper way to *control* the problem. It is difficult
>for many homeowners to understand the problem, because we all think it
>is just a simple "wipe-up and it is gone" type of problem. The source
>of the odor is microscopic, and is virtually unremoveable, so it has
>to be *sealed* to control odor formation.
Yeah, I managed to pull this little rabbit out of my hat in 2 weeks while
spending a lot of time out of town. It was a rather busy time, carpet
removal, tile setting, cleaning, sub floor replacement where it was
really bad (A guy helping me almost throwing up into a corner was a
good sign it was really bad). I think the carpet layers recommended
the sealant method. I think 90% of it was in the carpet/pad/bad parts of
the
subfloor.
I've still got a bunch of paneling to replace (it needed it anyway), and
one of these days I'm going to get the air ducts cleaned out, then things
should be really nice. That and a kitchen and bathroom...
pelmark
In article <6j5e04$k8j$1...@camel21.mindspring.com>, "Scott"
<sd...@anchor.hotmail.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> >But even vinegar will work quite well, in cleaning the surface of
the
> >concrete. Of course, there are still *billions* of dried urine
> >crystals in the porous holes in the concrete you can *never* get
out.
> Doesn't that make the area smell like a salad? That's almost going
> from one extreme to the other...
No, it lasts no longer than it takes to dry. Did your floors smell
like bleach forever?
When you clean items, you really neutralize pH, which is *why* most
home cleaning products, and professional ones, are alkaline...usually
the strongest cleaner in a home is ammonia, with a pH of someone
between 11.0--12.0. Most *soils*, and soils being all sorts of things,
not just dirt and sand, are acid in pH.
Urine is acidic, then transforms over time to an alkaline. It is
*better* to use stronger acids than vinegar, as they are more
effective.
<SNIP>
Your work was the right procedure. You did a good job, especially with
that many animals. I had two cats which did $38,000 worth of damage to
a home.
Good luck with your remodeling...
Mark
elalaouis...@gmail.com
> Evidence left behind in the form of cat urine in carpets. I removed
> the carpets but the smell remains. Now my cat tends to sniff around
> that area. I'm afraid it might start doing the same thing. Any ideas
> how to remove the smell and is there something on the market that will
> deter my cat from doing the same thing (just short of a Smith &
> Wesson!)
One of my 2 cats (both neutered males) had taken to painting all of my walls, furniture, and anything else he could reach. I was horrified when I got a UV light. He never did that in all of the 9 years I've had him and didn't when I got him a buddy (they love each other and did so right away) but when a strange black cat started showing up outside both of my cats went nuts and the older one (9) started his wall painting, as well as the curtains out in the kitty room. I couldn't keep up with it.
My cats are indoor cats so it's not like the stray is actually going to get in here but they both hate him (and he is weird...my neighbor's cats hate him too). I've tried cleaning with a pet urine enzyme and then spraying some "No More Spraying" but that hasn't worked. He's a sneaky little bugger too; he waits until he thinks I'm not looking and then does it. He's learned that the minute I see him backing his butt up to something he gets yelled at.
It wasn't until I found "Cat Spraying No More" that I was able to finally get rid of this tiresome behavior.
Now my house doesn't smell like a litter box anymore :)
Here's a link the their site if you're interested in checking it out: NoMoreCatPee.com
I hope you guys don't mind me sharing this. Cheers!
Shadow
elalaouis...@gmail.com wrote:
>I'm sorry for bumping this old thread, but I really feel like I have some advice to offer you - and you seemed to really need it at the time
>
>One of my 2 cats (both neutered males) had taken to
>all of my walls, furniture, and anything else he could reach.
make your cats develop male characteristics. Try using a ration
without steroids. On feed them fish.
Just look at what it does to the Trumpet "macho-men" that post
here. It's the steroid-burgers they feed on. They could be normal
human beings if they weren't "under the influence". Well, most of
them, anyway.
><cut_blatant_SPAM>
HTH
[]'s
--
Don't be evil - Google 2004
We have a new policy - Google 2012
devnull
> There so many steroids in meat imported from Brazil it can
> make your cats develop male characteristics. Try using a ration
> without steroids.
> On feed them fish.
The world has polluted the lakes/rivers/oceans so even wild-caught fish is unhealthy to eat. Don't even think of eating that GMO-fed fish-farm garbage.
> Just look at what it does to the Trumpet "macho-men" that post
> here. It's the steroid-burgers they feed on. They could be normal
> human beings if they weren't "under the influence". Well, most of
> them, anyway.
Shadow
>On 10/13/19 6:19 AM, Shadow wrote:
>> There so many steroids in meat imported from Brazil it can
>> make your cats develop male characteristics. Try using a ration
>> without steroids.
>
>I doubt that factory-farm meat from Brazil is any worse than US factory-farm meat.
>> On feed them fish.
>
>The world has polluted the lakes/rivers/oceans so even wild-caught fish is unhealthy to eat. Don't even think of eating that GMO-fed fish-farm garbage.
OTOH I'm happy you're worried about the environment and what
big business is doing to you. It's a start.
>> Just look at what it does to the Trumpet "macho-men" that post
>> here. It's the steroid-burgers they feed on. They could be normal
>> human beings if they weren't "under the influence". Well, most of
>> them, anyway.
>
>When you say "normal human beings" are you referring to the ubiquitous fat/lazy/welfare democrats?
Thought so.
trader_4
> I'm sorry for bumping this old thread,
crap. I hope all your cats piss all over you. I would if I could.
Phil Kangas
"Shadow" <S...@dow.br> wrote in message
news:n4u5qe113rnnt8moc...@4ax.com...
> elalaouis...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>I'm sorry for bumping this old thread, but I really feel
>>like I have some advice to offer you - and you seemed to
>>really need it at the time
>>
>>One of my 2 cats (both neutered males) had taken to
>
> <pissing on>
>
>>all of my walls, furniture, and anything else he could
>>reach.
https://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/stop-feline-inappropriate-elimination/
Shadow
Notice he doesn't even mention steroids..
I took mine to the vet. She asked what ration I was buying. I
said "Whiskers". She recommended one without steroids.
Same for the (female) dog that started humping anything that
moved. Changed the food.
Problem solved.
%
Shadow
rbowman
> I took mine to the vet. She asked what ration I was buying. I
> said "Whiskers". She recommended one without steroids.
Shadow
wrote:
houses can't bribe the food inspectors to "overlook", and is labeled
"unsuitable for human consumption".
Rejected beef is dirt cheap.
Bolsonaro is firing the honest food inspectors though.
Problem solved. On the downside, dog and cat food will be more
expensive.
rbowman
> On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 19:39:33 -0600, rbowman <bow...@montana.com>
> wrote:
>
>> On 10/13/2019 04:57 PM, Shadow wrote:
>>> I took mine to the vet. She asked what ration I was buying. I
>>> said "Whiskers". She recommended one without steroids.
>>
>> Your cat food has steroids?
>
> Yes, it's made of Brazilian beef, the stuff the slaughter
> houses can't bribe the food inspectors to "overlook", and is labeled
> "unsuitable for human consumption".
> Rejected beef is dirt cheap.
> Bolsonaro is firing the honest food inspectors though.
> Problem solved. On the downside, dog and cat food will be more
> expensive.
for disabled, diseased, dying, and dead livestock. Cynically, it's USDA
inspected... Supposedly the FDA pulled the exemptions earlier this
year. One of their concerns was pentobarbital used for euthanizing cats,
dogs, and horses. Considering the cocktail of drugs they pump into
feedlot cattle to keep them alive until slaughter, steroids and
antibiotics wouldn't be out of the question.
The less you know about food production, the better. I once delivered a
load of dry beans to a leading canned chili manufacturer. A truckload of
chicken was in the next bay. The reefer had broken down in transit and
the frozen chicken had thawed. The original consignee had refused the
load. "Throw a little more chili powder in this batch, Joe."
Shadow
wrote:
>I wondered if the extras came from 4-D meat. 4-D is a US classification
>for disabled, diseased, dying, and dead livestock. Cynically, it's USDA
>inspected... Supposedly the FDA pulled the exemptions earlier this
>year. One of their concerns was pentobarbital used for euthanizing cats,
>dogs, and horses. Considering the cocktail of drugs they pump into
>feedlot cattle to keep them alive until slaughter, steroids and
>antibiotics wouldn't be out of the question.
>The less you know about food production, the better. I once delivered a
>load of dry beans to a leading canned chili manufacturer. A truckload of
>chicken was in the next bay. The reefer had broken down in transit and
>the frozen chicken had thawed. The original consignee had refused the
>load. "Throw a little more chili powder in this batch, Joe."
"I think I can smell old oak, with a touch of French roses".
It's why they call themselves con-noisseurs.
;)
rbowman
and looking for a replacement led me to the hideously overpriced Brim
coffee pot. Further research led me down the rabbit hole into the land
of coffee snobs.
I've never experienced the subtle hints of chocolate with overtones of
black raspberries or any of that shit. The closest I've come is
Ethiopian coffee which has a fruity taste reminiscent of a compost pile
on a hot day.
Back in the day my wine appreciation was similar. Gallo Hearty Burgundy
in the gallon jug, 14% alcohol and cheap.
Shadow
wrote:
>On 10/15/2019 07:16 PM, Shadow wrote:
>> On Mon, 14 Oct 2019 08:00:23 -0600, rbowman <bow...@montana.com>
>> wrote:
>>> The less you know about food production, the better. I once delivered a
>>> load of dry beans to a leading canned chili manufacturer. A truckload of
>>> chicken was in the next bay. The reefer had broken down in transit and
>>> the frozen chicken had thawed. The original consignee had refused the
>>> load. "Throw a little more chili powder in this batch, Joe."
>>
>> Consumers probably loved the "subtle aroma".
>> "I think I can smell old oak, with a touch of French roses".
>> It's why they call themselves con-noisseurs.
>> ;)
>
>
>That drives me crazy. The office coffee maker is getting old and slow
>and looking for a replacement led me to the hideously overpriced Brim
>coffee pot. Further research led me down the rabbit hole into the land
>of coffee snobs.
>
>I've never experienced the subtle hints of chocolate with overtones of
>black raspberries or any of that shit. The closest I've come is
>Ethiopian coffee which has a fruity taste reminiscent of a compost pile
>on a hot day.
>
>Back in the day my wine appreciation was similar. Gallo Hearty Burgundy
>in the gallon jug, 14% alcohol and cheap.
PS I get the "subtle taste of chocolate" in my coffee by
adding a pinch of cocoa. Don't do it very often though.
Brazilian coffee (sold here) is "riado", the worst, grains
that were not ripe enough and/or moldy. If you want decent coffee you
have to buy it at the farms and roast/grind it yourself.
The good stuff is all exported. ( a lot of the trucks are
hijacked by the militia though, so you can find "export-only" grade in
small stores cheap. I don't buy it because a truck driver probably
died as part of the process).
rbowman
> Brazilian coffee (sold here) is "riado", the worst, grains
> that were not ripe enough and/or moldy. If you want decent coffee you
> have to buy it at the farms and roast/grind it yourself.
https://www.sweetmarias.com/
I tend to be lazy as coffee is a thing in this area and there are
several small roasters in town that have decent selections.
I got my education back in the '90s as a trucker. Millstone in Everett
WA was one of the first companies to get into custom roasting. I loaded
beans at their plant going to the distributors in the mid-West. Walking
by the trailer was good for a caffeine buzz. The distributors were small
operations and they all had the coffee pot on. The plan was I would drop
the beans and load old store displays, burnt out grinders, and other
stuff to take back to Everett. That killed Folgers in a can for me.
Like every other good thing in the US, Proctor & Gamble snapped them up,
shut down the Everett facility. That became Folgers, then J.M. Smucker
who then shut down the Millstone brand. The founder took the money and
started again as Cascade.