high limit switch for a york furnace
Deodiaus
model # P2MPD14N08001C
It seems as if the high limit switch is problematic.
It has a rating of 170-30
It is made by Texas Instruments. patent no 5144274
the numbers
1NT17L-2303
L170F-30
025-29041-007A
9418
meaning it shuts off at 170 deg F and comes one when the temp drops by
30 deg F.
The problem seems to be that the downstairs of a 6000 sq ft house does
not get warmer than 67 deg F on a 30 deg F night.
We have about 4 units, in a 2 story house.
Does anyone have any good and cheap suppliers for this part.
I called Grainger, but they could not tell me the cut off temp on the
York high limit switch in stock.
Deodiaus
The furnace does come on and seems to work.
It is just that the house does not get warm enough.
This is a 17 year old house in TN
Stormin Mormon
open, not covered with furniture. And that there is enough return air.
Since you live in a 6,000 sq foot house, maybe you should spend some
money and have a HVAC service company come out? Maybe get a payment
holiday on your flat screen TV?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Deodiaus" <deod...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e068dbf6-2b0c-48d5...@21g2000prv.googlegroups.com...
jamesgangnc
>
> - Show quoted text -
Since you said furnace I'm guessing gas? If it's running the problem
is not the hi-limit switch. If it shuts down before the thermostat
stops calling for heat then it might be the hi-limit switch. So is
the temp at the thermostat reaching the set point? And the problem is
that another part ofthehouse is too cold?
You don't mention any zone controls so we're talking about a sngle
furnace, single thermostat set up, correct? A single furnace on that
large a house must have a number of flow dampers on the vent ducts.
They would be close to the furnace. They probably need adjusting.
They will most likely need to tweaked everytime you switch from
cooling to heating or back.
Deodiaus
Yes, it is a big house, but the cost of living here is cheap. I am
out of work for a long while, so really tight with money. We bought
the house when we both were working and got a great deal on it.
I checked the vents and they all seem open and unobstructed (ceiling
vents). I can feel a bit of air coming out, but don't know if that is
enough.
I changed the air filters.
The room that is problematic is downstairs.
I swapped out the high limit switch with another one, just to make
sure that the one there was not faulty.
The other one (from an upstairs unit) is
Texas Instruments
pat no 5144273
1NT17L-1875
L160F-30
025-29041-004
9413
It shuts off 10 deg F colder.
Maybe I should try to find one that cuts off at 180F
I watched the unit with the cover off.
It seems to work fine just fine for the first 10 mins.
The furnace turns off after 5 min, presumably when the high limit
switch protects the unit from over heating.
It blows air for about 2 mins, and reignites and heats up and shuts
down.
It seems to operate, but its just that after a while it stops heating
up.
I have the thermostat set at 74F, while as it only gets up to 68F.
It seems to behave as if had reached the desired temp.
Maybe I should check to see if there is still a call for heat by
seeing if there is current across the C-Y leads [call for heat by the
downstairs thermostat.
Steve Newman
> I watched the unit with the cover off.
> It seems to work fine just fine for the first 10 mins.
> The furnace turns off after 5 min, presumably when the high limit
> switch protects the unit from over heating.
> It blows air for about 2 mins, and reignites and heats up and shuts
> down.
> It seems to operate, but its just that after a while it stops heating
> up.
> I have the thermostat set at 74F, while as it only gets up to 68F.
> It seems to behave as if had reached the desired temp.
> Maybe I should check to see if there is still a call for heat by
> seeing if there is current across the C-Y leads [call for heat by the
> downstairs thermostat.
It's not clear from your description exactly what the furnace is doing.
Normally, when the thermostat is calling for heat, the burners come on and
heat up the heat exchanger, then the blower comes on, and the burners and
the blower both run until the thermostat is satisfied. Then the burners shut
off and the blower runs for a short time until the heat exchanger cools
down, and it turns off. Is this happening?? You say "I have the thermostat
set at 74F, while as it only gets up to 68F."
If this were true then the burners and blower would never shut off (with
normal airflow) because the thermostat would never be satisfied.
Are you sure it's not "cycling on the high limit switch"? You can tell
because after the burner initially comes on and heats up the heat exchanger
and then the blower will come on & stay on. The burners will heat the
exchanger up past the maximum safe temperature, and the limit will open to
shut the burners off, but the blower will stay on to cool down the heat
exchanger (and therefore the limit switch) and then the limit switch will
re-close and allow the burners to come back on. The cycling on & off of the
burners tells you there is a problem. Probably an air flow problem as
somebody else previously mentioned (weak blower motor, slipping blower
wheel, loose duct liner, plugged A/C evaporator coil, etc.) You need to get
a qualified tech to check it out.
jamesgangnc
You can also test by simply maxing the thermostat and then observing
the unit. I presume it has previously worked and this is a new
problem. It is possible that the air flow is too low. Most units do
not shutdown the fan when there is an overtemp situation, they just
shut down the gas. You can also meter the overtemp, most commonly
they are in series with the controls and open when there is a fault.
That means you will measure no voltage across them when the unit is
operating normally and there will be voltage across them when they
have tripped. You need to look at the schemantic to see how they are
wired. The most common wiring is also in series with the flame
rollout switch if there is one so you want to make sure that is not
the problem. You should find a schematic inside the unit. As others
have mentioned the airflow needs to be correct as well. If the
blower is starting up ok then about the only mechanical thing to check
is the blower wheel, make sure it is not loose on the blower mtor.
Usually they rattle when thisis the case but you can usually reach in
and check that with the blower compartment cover off. Confirming the
correct airflow is best done with a thermometer in the outlet side.
The paperwork with the unit will give you a temp range that it should
be inside of. You may find a hole taped over where the installation
tech checked it. If it is too hot and you have confirmed that the
blower wheel is ok and there are no obstruction in the ductwork you
can change the fan speed, usually at the control board by plugging a
different blower lead into it. But the fan speed should ahve been set
properly on installation and there is normally no reason to change
it. If you don't have a meter or you're not confortable following
schematics then it might be time to call the service guy.
Stormin Mormon
some kind of safety switch is being activated. Something is seriously
wrong. Do you have any friends of friends who are HVAC service techs?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Deodiaus" <deod...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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