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PB Blaster Silicon Spray causes squeaks!
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DerbyDad03
Aug 11, 2013, 8:42:28 PM8/11/13
to
My daughter bought a used car a few months ago. The doors squeaked when she
opened them so she grabbed my spray bottle of WD-40 and sprayed the bar
that prevents the doors from opening too far. (WD-40 is not a lubricant.
There, I said it, OK?) The squeaks went away immediately. The bars are
metal, covered in plastic.
Today she told me that one door was beginning to squeak again, just a
little, so I took a look in my shop to see what kind of lubricants I had
lying around. I found a can of PB Blaster Silicone Spray:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Dry-Lube-Silicone-Lubricant-16-SL/202529794#.UggpImu9KSM
The can says "This non-staining lubricant eliminates squeaking and binding
and extends the life of: - Metal - Plastic - Wood - Rubber - Vinyl -
Leather"
I tried the door she said was squeaking and it did indeed squeak, just a
little, as it approached fully open. I sprayed the bar with the silicone
spray and tried the door again. The racket was almost deafening. It was
same squeak often heard from car doors, but it was the loudest squeak I had
ever heard and it now squeaked the entire length of the bar, on open and on
close. I sprayed the bar again and it was just as bad.
I grabbed my spray bottle of WD-40, sprayed the bar again, and the noise
went away instantly. I didn't even clean off the silicon. The door is now
silent.
Why would the silicon lubricant cause such a racket? Not only didn't it
eliminate the minor squeak, it caused the bar to squeak along its entire
length.
opened them so she grabbed my spray bottle of WD-40 and sprayed the bar
that prevents the doors from opening too far. (WD-40 is not a lubricant.
There, I said it, OK?) The squeaks went away immediately. The bars are
metal, covered in plastic.
Today she told me that one door was beginning to squeak again, just a
little, so I took a look in my shop to see what kind of lubricants I had
lying around. I found a can of PB Blaster Silicone Spray:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Dry-Lube-Silicone-Lubricant-16-SL/202529794#.UggpImu9KSM
The can says "This non-staining lubricant eliminates squeaking and binding
and extends the life of: - Metal - Plastic - Wood - Rubber - Vinyl -
Leather"
I tried the door she said was squeaking and it did indeed squeak, just a
little, as it approached fully open. I sprayed the bar with the silicone
spray and tried the door again. The racket was almost deafening. It was
same squeak often heard from car doors, but it was the loudest squeak I had
ever heard and it now squeaked the entire length of the bar, on open and on
close. I sprayed the bar again and it was just as bad.
I grabbed my spray bottle of WD-40, sprayed the bar again, and the noise
went away instantly. I didn't even clean off the silicon. The door is now
silent.
Why would the silicon lubricant cause such a racket? Not only didn't it
eliminate the minor squeak, it caused the bar to squeak along its entire
length.
Tony Hwang
Aug 11, 2013, 10:05:04 PM8/11/13
to
I'd use Liquid wrench which contains Teflon.
Or Lubriplate grease.
DerbyDad03
Aug 11, 2013, 10:02:34 PM8/11/13
to
a silicon lubricant would cause more squeaking after the application of the
product than before.
Tony Hwang
Aug 11, 2013, 11:43:14 PM8/11/13
to
WD-40 has Si but I don't think enough to act like lubricant.
It is basically solvent with water repelling ability. Once it
dries up rust comes back, squeaks come back. My own opinion.
gregz
Aug 11, 2013, 11:03:43 PM8/11/13
to
The thin coating of silicone spray might act weird on some items.
Oil is not good for plastic. Try crc 2-26 plastic safe.
I often use combination of oil and white grease spray on metal parts.
Greg
Vic Smith
Aug 12, 2013, 2:09:57 AM8/12/13
to
On Sun, 11 Aug 2013 20:43:14 -0700, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
wrote:
>Hi,
>WD-40 has Si but I don't think enough to act like lubricant.
>It is basically solvent with water repelling ability. Once it
>dries up rust comes back, squeaks come back. My own opinion.
Besides that, the solvent will dissolve the lube deeper in a hinge.
I use motor oil for any metal hinges and slide bars, applied with
a dimple or pump oil can, work the mechanism until the squeak is
gone, then wipe off the excess. Always works, and lasts for years.
In fact, in my experience it works better than white lithium grease
because it penetrates better.
I had one car with door locks that would stiffen up. Lock graphite or
white lithium, or silicone would work for about a year at most.
Dipping the key in motor oil a few times and working the lock would
last 2-3 years.
I used WD-40 on bathroom door hinges years ago, before I knew better.
Stopped squeaking for about a week. Haven't had any WD-40 in my house
or garage since.
Don't know about plastic hinge parts. Never lubed any that I can
recall. The only plastic hinges I've heard squeaking weren't worth
keeping anyway.
If I had some I wanted to keep, I'd try silicone grease. I've used
silicone grease sticks to good effect on plastic and wood slides.
Before silicone came around it was wax or soap for that.
You'll get all kinds of argument about what lube to use for something.
Experience is the best argument, but it's going to differ.
I've found motor oil is best for just about everything that doesn't
call for packed or injected grease, but keep it away from rubber and
plastic as a general rule, because I'm never sure of their chemistry.
There are plenty of plastics that suffer no ill effects from petroleum
oil. The jugs it comes in is one example. But I don't take chances
when silicone and teflon oils are readily available.
WD-40 is petro oil and solvents. Rubber/plastic is more likely to
suffer adverse affects from solvents than petro oil.
And there are much better cleaning solvents than WD-40.
Put me in the "Thinks WD-40 is junk column."
wrote:
>Hi,
>WD-40 has Si but I don't think enough to act like lubricant.
>It is basically solvent with water repelling ability. Once it
>dries up rust comes back, squeaks come back. My own opinion.
I use motor oil for any metal hinges and slide bars, applied with
a dimple or pump oil can, work the mechanism until the squeak is
gone, then wipe off the excess. Always works, and lasts for years.
In fact, in my experience it works better than white lithium grease
because it penetrates better.
I had one car with door locks that would stiffen up. Lock graphite or
white lithium, or silicone would work for about a year at most.
Dipping the key in motor oil a few times and working the lock would
last 2-3 years.
I used WD-40 on bathroom door hinges years ago, before I knew better.
Stopped squeaking for about a week. Haven't had any WD-40 in my house
or garage since.
Don't know about plastic hinge parts. Never lubed any that I can
recall. The only plastic hinges I've heard squeaking weren't worth
keeping anyway.
If I had some I wanted to keep, I'd try silicone grease. I've used
silicone grease sticks to good effect on plastic and wood slides.
Before silicone came around it was wax or soap for that.
You'll get all kinds of argument about what lube to use for something.
Experience is the best argument, but it's going to differ.
I've found motor oil is best for just about everything that doesn't
call for packed or injected grease, but keep it away from rubber and
plastic as a general rule, because I'm never sure of their chemistry.
There are plenty of plastics that suffer no ill effects from petroleum
oil. The jugs it comes in is one example. But I don't take chances
when silicone and teflon oils are readily available.
WD-40 is petro oil and solvents. Rubber/plastic is more likely to
suffer adverse affects from solvents than petro oil.
And there are much better cleaning solvents than WD-40.
Put me in the "Thinks WD-40 is junk column."
Ashton Crusher
Aug 12, 2013, 2:59:17 AM8/12/13
to
rubber bushings on my Explorer. I had a cleaned everything with some
Gunk Degreaser. Afterwards nothing squeaked. Thought it would be a
good idea to protect all the rubber after the cleaning so I sprayed
some name brand silicone lube on all the rubber bushings. Took it for
a drive and it had so many squeaks it sounded like a flock of birds
attacking a pig farm. So I bought another can of Gunk Degreaser and
sprayed all the rubber parts again (and hosed it off). All the
squeaks went away. Generally speaking, I have found Silicone spray to
be almost worthless. Even on the stuff I've used it on where it
'worked' it lost it's effectiveness fairly rapidly.
micky
Aug 12, 2013, 4:11:10 AM8/12/13
to
>
>Put me in the "Thinks WD-40 is junk column."
graphite, which is most of the time in the last 30 years, I use WD-40
and I'm good for another 20 years.
One reason I like it.
Robert Green
Aug 12, 2013, 7:39:20 AM8/12/13
to
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
<stuff snipped>
> Thanks, but I'm not looking for alternatives. I'm looking for a reason why
> a silicon lubricant would cause more squeaking after the application of
the
> product than before.
Is this the same stuff just recommended in the "tip of the day?" (-:
My best guess is that there's some interaction going on between the WD and
the PB propellant/carriers. Does it increase squeaking on a section (if
there is any) of the door that hadn't been previously treated with WD? Does
the treated area feel slippery or gooey and tacky?
--
Bobby G.
<stuff snipped>
> Thanks, but I'm not looking for alternatives. I'm looking for a reason why
> a silicon lubricant would cause more squeaking after the application of
the
> product than before.
My best guess is that there's some interaction going on between the WD and
the PB propellant/carriers. Does it increase squeaking on a section (if
there is any) of the door that hadn't been previously treated with WD? Does
the treated area feel slippery or gooey and tacky?
--
Bobby G.
Stormin Mormon
Aug 12, 2013, 8:17:16 AM8/12/13
to
Got me puzzled. Might be the can was a defect, and contained the solvent
but not the silicone?
I found a bicycle on the curb, years ago. Cleaned it up and used
Walmart's house brand of silicone lube on the chain. Came in a black
spray can, as I remember. Gave it to a boy who was from out of town.
They took the bike home, and a week or two later I heard that the chain
had locked up, and the bike was no longer useful. The kid was
disappointed, and I was also not happy about the matter. I wonder if the
crap brand of spray rinsed out all the chain oil, and then the chain
rusted from lack of "real" oil? I'd have been better off not to do
anything to the chain. Or, I should have used WD.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
but not the silicone?
I found a bicycle on the curb, years ago. Cleaned it up and used
Walmart's house brand of silicone lube on the chain. Came in a black
spray can, as I remember. Gave it to a boy who was from out of town.
They took the bike home, and a week or two later I heard that the chain
had locked up, and the bike was no longer useful. The kid was
disappointed, and I was also not happy about the matter. I wonder if the
crap brand of spray rinsed out all the chain oil, and then the chain
rusted from lack of "real" oil? I'd have been better off not to do
anything to the chain. Or, I should have used WD.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Stormin Mormon
Aug 12, 2013, 8:18:34 AM8/12/13
to
Young's Law of usenet: After Nazis have been
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.
invoked and called forth from the spirit world,
someone is sure to mention WD-40. The debate
"is it a lubricant or water displacer" is not complete
until someone explains what the letters abbrev. for.
Points are earned by quoting usenet posters of old,
Aristotle, or your own personal experiences with
WD-40. Web pages abound, and are on topic for
the debate. Regardless of how worthy an argument
is, no one is allowed to change sides. The debate
must continue to eternity.
Stormin Mormon
Aug 12, 2013, 8:23:01 AM8/12/13
to
This is on topic for another moment. The metal framed
windows at my church are slowly starting to get difficult
to open. I'd considered spray them with silicone spray.
After this conversation, I may try that dry teflon
aerosol instead.
windows at my church are slowly starting to get difficult
to open. I'd considered spray them with silicone spray.
After this conversation, I may try that dry teflon
aerosol instead.
dadiOH
Aug 12, 2013, 8:24:42 AM8/12/13
to
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:932362976397959444.684...@nntp.aioe.org
Silicone lube slicks stuff up pretty well. Maybe it slicked it up so much
that it opened a bit further than normal, it was less worn there resulting
in the squeek?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Stormin Mormon
Aug 12, 2013, 8:27:16 AM8/12/13
to
For my car door keyhole locks, I use 10w30 motor oil.
About half CC Applied with a veterinary syringe, into
the keyhole. I'm in NY state, the highway dept uses a
lot of salt on the roads. The oil is needed, so that
the cylinders don't turn into a lump of white corroded
metal. Yes, that does happen to people here.
Graphite is excellent for locks that stay dry, such
as on buildings and office complexes.
As to the latch mechanism inside car doors, the
Remington Wonder Lube with teflon worked well for
me, also dry teflon spray worked. WD did not work
well, and did not last very long. Couple days.
To the OP, did you write or call the PB Blaster
company and call? I doubt that you would get a very
satisfying answer, if you did.
About half CC Applied with a veterinary syringe, into
the keyhole. I'm in NY state, the highway dept uses a
lot of salt on the roads. The oil is needed, so that
the cylinders don't turn into a lump of white corroded
metal. Yes, that does happen to people here.
Graphite is excellent for locks that stay dry, such
as on buildings and office complexes.
As to the latch mechanism inside car doors, the
Remington Wonder Lube with teflon worked well for
me, also dry teflon spray worked. WD did not work
well, and did not last very long. Couple days.
To the OP, did you write or call the PB Blaster
company and call? I doubt that you would get a very
satisfying answer, if you did.
bob haller
Aug 12, 2013, 8:32:59 AM8/12/13
to
I used to repair office machines at a oil companies laboratory.
There were detailed signs about which lubricants were compatible.
I got interested in this subject after relubing something with lubriplate white grease that must of had some brown grease remaining. it was in a hard to service clutch, the combo of lubricants turned to rock:( lacking a assembly to replace the clutch i worked for hours on it.... later i had to replace it anyway...
300 bucks i had to pay........
do not mix lubricants
WD40 is not OIL.....
use oil on door hinges...
There were detailed signs about which lubricants were compatible.
I got interested in this subject after relubing something with lubriplate white grease that must of had some brown grease remaining. it was in a hard to service clutch, the combo of lubricants turned to rock:( lacking a assembly to replace the clutch i worked for hours on it.... later i had to replace it anyway...
300 bucks i had to pay........
do not mix lubricants
WD40 is not OIL.....
use oil on door hinges...
micky
Aug 12, 2013, 8:42:32 AM8/12/13
to
On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 08:27:16 -0400, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>For my car door keyhole locks, I use 10w30 motor oil.
>About half CC Applied with a veterinary syringe, into
>the keyhole. I'm in NY state, the highway dept uses a
>lot of salt on the roads. The oil is needed, so that
>the cylinders don't turn into a lump of white corroded
>metal. Yes, that does happen to people here.
>
>Graphite is excellent for locks that stay dry, such
>as on buildings and office complexes.
>
>As to the latch mechanism inside car doors, the
>Remington Wonder Lube with teflon worked well for
>me, also dry teflon spray worked. WD did not work
>well, and did not last very long. Couple days.
>
>To the OP, did you write or call the PB Blaster
>company and call? I doubt that you would get a very
>satisfying answer, if you did.
My '50 Olds came with rubber lock slot covers, although I was afraid
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>For my car door keyhole locks, I use 10w30 motor oil.
>About half CC Applied with a veterinary syringe, into
>the keyhole. I'm in NY state, the highway dept uses a
>lot of salt on the roads. The oil is needed, so that
>the cylinders don't turn into a lump of white corroded
>metal. Yes, that does happen to people here.
>
>Graphite is excellent for locks that stay dry, such
>as on buildings and office complexes.
>
>As to the latch mechanism inside car doors, the
>Remington Wonder Lube with teflon worked well for
>me, also dry teflon spray worked. WD did not work
>well, and did not last very long. Couple days.
>
>To the OP, did you write or call the PB Blaster
>company and call? I doubt that you would get a very
>satisfying answer, if you did.
to use them because the car was 17 years old and I figured the rubber
covers were wearing out. But even in Chicago, I never had any trouble
anyhow.
I've never had trouble with door locks afaicr, and now that I use a
fob more than a key, that's even more likely to be true.
Only my home's door lock and maybe a padlock has given me trouble, and
like I say, WD-40 seems to last about 20 years.
Mr.E
Aug 12, 2013, 9:04:55 AM8/12/13
to
stop.
Some lubricants make the tensioner squeal.
I usually wipe the bar down to remove dirt/debris and apply a small
amount of white lube or old style wax-based distributor cam lube. No
problems so far.
--
Mr.E
Robert Green
Aug 12, 2013, 10:44:04 AM8/12/13
to
"micky" <NONONO...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
<stuff snipped>
> I've never had trouble with door locks afaicr, and now that I use a
> fob more than a key, that's even more likely to be true.
That may not be true. Locks need to be worked with a key from time to time
to keep the mechanism freed up. I try to use my key on the door lock as
often as I can to keep it from locking up from crud incursion even though
the fob would do it.
--
Bobby G.
<stuff snipped>
> I've never had trouble with door locks afaicr, and now that I use a
> fob more than a key, that's even more likely to be true.
to keep the mechanism freed up. I try to use my key on the door lock as
often as I can to keep it from locking up from crud incursion even though
the fob would do it.
--
Bobby G.
Ed Pawlowski
Aug 12, 2013, 11:58:52 AM8/12/13
to
On 8/12/2013 10:44 AM, Robert Green wrote:
>
> That may not be true. Locks need to be worked with a key from time to time
> to keep the mechanism freed up. I try to use my key on the door lock as
> often as I can to keep it from locking up from crud incursion even though
> the fob would do it.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
Last few cars I've owned I never used the key. Rarely lock the doors,
>
> That may not be true. Locks need to be worked with a key from time to time
> to keep the mechanism freed up. I try to use my key on the door lock as
> often as I can to keep it from locking up from crud incursion even though
> the fob would do it.
>
> --
> Bobby G.
but when I do, it is the fob.
Stormin Mormon
Aug 12, 2013, 12:42:28 PM8/12/13
to
In many parts of the world (like western NYS)
where we have road salt, unused car door key
holes turn into a lump of grey and salt.
Rx, 1/2 cc 10w30, IM, twice a year, or PRN.
where we have road salt, unused car door key
holes turn into a lump of grey and salt.
Rx, 1/2 cc 10w30, IM, twice a year, or PRN.
DerbyDad03
Aug 12, 2013, 1:19:03 PM8/12/13
to
case, the WD-40 worked for a while, adding the silicon caused a major issue
but reapplying the WD-40 - without cleaning off the silicon - resulted in
silence.
It would be weird to think that putting silicon on top of WD-40 would cause
a problem but putting WD-40 on top of silicon wouldn't. In other words, I
don't think that it's a mixture of the 2 products that caused the issue in
this case.
DerbyDad03
Aug 12, 2013, 1:19:04 PM8/12/13
to
post:
"Not only didn't it eliminate the minor squeak, it caused the bar to squeak
along its entire length."
used the silicon spray it squeaked extremely loudly from the tiniest bit of
open all the way to fully open and back again. I have never heard a door
make some much noise.
DerbyDad03
Aug 12, 2013, 1:22:15 PM8/12/13
to
Mr.E <Mr...@totally.invalid> wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 00:42:28 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
... Snip ...
> On Mon, 12 Aug 2013 00:42:28 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
> <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>
>> Why would the silicon lubricant cause such a racket? Not only didn't it
>> eliminate the minor squeak, it caused the bar to squeak along its entire
>> length.
>
> This bar is a tensioner/positioner in addition to an opening width
> stop.
> Some lubricants make the tensioner squeal.
> I usually wipe the bar down to remove dirt/debris and apply a small
> amount of white lube or old style wax-based distributor cam lube. No
> problems so far.
Robert Green
Aug 12, 2013, 3:22:11 PM8/12/13
to
"Ed Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote in message
news:KsKdnVZ_coj-mZTP...@giganews.com...
I use the key for two reasons. One to deliberately keep the door lock from
"locking up" from disuse and the other to save some wear and tear on the
automatic locking mechanisms. My make/model van is notorious for lock
control module failures (the power liftgate is already dead but I don't use
it much anyway). So I figure the key saves at least a few operational
cycles on all the door latches that get tweaked when the fob is used.
--
Bobby G.
news:KsKdnVZ_coj-mZTP...@giganews.com...
"locking up" from disuse and the other to save some wear and tear on the
automatic locking mechanisms. My make/model van is notorious for lock
control module failures (the power liftgate is already dead but I don't use
it much anyway). So I figure the key saves at least a few operational
cycles on all the door latches that get tweaked when the fob is used.
--
Bobby G.
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