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Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
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JOy
Dec 31, 2015, 7:44:04 PM12/31/15
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Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
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Oren
Dec 31, 2015, 7:54:31 PM12/31/15
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On Fri, 01 Jan 2016 00:44:01 +0000, JOy
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:
>Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
What does the container indicate? It works in enamel. Let me think.
<caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:
>Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
Paint...@unlisted.moc
Dec 31, 2015, 9:18:37 PM12/31/15
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>Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
Oren
Dec 31, 2015, 9:48:23 PM12/31/15
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Anything else I can help you with?
Mayayana
Dec 31, 2015, 9:53:49 PM12/31/15
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| >Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
|
| It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
|
It's an additive for acrylic (water base) paint
|
| It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
|
to slow the drying time, causing the brush strokes
to settle out better. It's good for things like painting
louvre doors, where the paint may start to set up
before an area is finished.
Paint...@unlisted.moc
Dec 31, 2015, 10:16:03 PM12/31/15
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On Thu, 31 Dec 2015 21:53:27 -0500, "Mayayana" <maya...@invalid.nospam>
wrote:
Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
doubt, call the manufacturer".
wrote:
Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
doubt, call the manufacturer".
Oren
Dec 31, 2015, 10:35:16 PM12/31/15
to
On Thu, 31 Dec 2015 21:11:49 -0600, Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
>Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
>
>Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
>used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
>worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
>still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
>doubt, call the manufacturer".
Rich. You know Penetrol but nothing about what Floetrol was unless the
>Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
>
>Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
>used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
>worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
>still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
>doubt, call the manufacturer".
OP explained it to you. I couldn't make that up if I tried, Home Gay.
Mayayana
Dec 31, 2015, 10:50:40 PM12/31/15
to
| Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
|
No, but sometimes people refer to things like
|
Varathane as water-base polyurethane. Though
that stuff dries very smoothly. For that reason
I was hesitant to answer the OP. It sounds like
they don't know what they're asking about and/or
couldn't be bothered to explain it.
| Many years ago, I brush painted a truck with Rustoleum (oil base) and
| used some similar product but it was made for oil based paints. It
| worked quite well. I think it was called Penetrol. Dont know if they
| still sell it, or if it would work on poly.... The best advice, "If in
| doubt, call the manufacturer".
|
trim paint. It was great. But it was radically changed
with the move to accomodate EPA fume regulations
and is no longer the same product. I haven't tried
the new version. I doubt it's any good. I've yet to
see an oil paint that meets the EPA standards that
isn't junk. So I'm guessing that Penetrol is a similar
case. Only some brands in quarts, which are exempt,
are worth using. I think Rustoleum is still good, but
I've never actually used it very much. Sherwin Williams
quarts are the only brand I currently know of that I'm
sure are still good. (Benjamin Moore downgraded their
whole line so that they could conform while still selling
gallons. As a result, they no longer make any good oil
paints. SW took the approach of eliminating gallons
in order to keep making the same good paint. Pratt
and Lambert did the same. But they've now been
bought by SW and seem to be disappearing.)
I once brush-painted my own pickup with One Shot
sign lettering enamel. Beautiful stuff that dried perfectly
smooth and stayed tough. It was in a class of its own;
a specialized commercial paint. But that, also, got
downgraded.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Jan 1, 2016, 1:44:34 AM1/1/16
to
help level water based poly. I wouldn't use it in a solvent based
finish
Micky
Jan 1, 2016, 7:50:52 AM1/1/16
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On Thu, 31 Dec 2015 20:14:26 -0600, Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
plop it in.
Ed Pawlowski
Jan 1, 2016, 7:58:29 AM1/1/16
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On Thu, 31 Dec 2015 21:11:49 -0600, Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
>On Thu, 31 Dec 2015 21:53:27 -0500, "Mayayana" <maya...@invalid.nospam>
>wrote:
>
>>| >Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
>>|
>>| It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
>>|
>>
>> It's an additive for acrylic (water base) paint
>>to slow the drying time, causing the brush strokes
>>to settle out better. It's good for things like painting
>>louvre doors, where the paint may start to set up
>>before an area is finished.
>>
>
>Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
>
What about water based polyurethane?????
>wrote:
>
>>| >Can Floetrol be added to polyurethane?
>>|
>>| It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
>>|
>>
>> It's an additive for acrylic (water base) paint
>>to slow the drying time, causing the brush strokes
>>to settle out better. It's good for things like painting
>>louvre doors, where the paint may start to set up
>>before an area is finished.
>>
>
>Thanks. If it's for water based paints, it wont work on polyurethane.
>
Frank
Jan 1, 2016, 9:07:41 AM1/1/16
to
like it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olpryMu7tbA
If it is designed for latex paints, I would not use it.
Paint...@unlisted.moc
Jan 1, 2016, 9:32:20 AM1/1/16
to
can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
base.
I recall first learning about polyurethane in the early 1970s, and was
told it was superior to the old varnish. I also heard it was similar to
an epoxy coating. I never really questioned any of that, I just tried it
and liked it. I have not used any of that sort of thing in years. THese
days, moldings come pre-finished, and I use that. I was never a big fan
of anything that involves using a paint brush. I did make some patio
tables though and used tung oil, which I like the look, it's durable
outdoors, and just gets wiped on.
dpb
Jan 1, 2016, 11:13:17 AM1/1/16
to
On 01/01/2016 8:28 AM, Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
...
> I never knew they made it as a water base. Actually, I dont know how it
> can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
> polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
> base.
Need to read up...the 'polyurethane' is simply the liquified plastic
component which is included in the carrier for application. Initially,
all were oil-based, yes, but EPA (and CA) have fixed that by
introduction of such strict VOC limitations that couldn't be met other
than by eliminating the hydrocarbons (the oil carrier, iow).
Oil-based polyurethanes are elastic resins in liquid form, mainly
comprise of acids derived from vegetable oil, nitrogen-based chemical
amalgams, and isocyanates, suspended in mineral spirits. As noted
above, restrictions on emissions has led to water-based polyurethane
products, basically the suspension of polyurethane in water. Needless
to say, there's some significant alchemy going on inside the can with
surfactants and the like to create a miscible mixture, but that's the
basic product.
A polyurethane coating cures when some of its chemical elements form
powerful links with one another after reacting with atmospheric oxygen
(hence the "poly" as opposed to simply "urethane").
There's now a whole new class of "water-based oil-modified" which are
low VOC-compliant, water-cleanup but with the characteristic amber color
of oil-based as opposed to the clear water-based.
> I recall first learning about polyurethane in the early 1970s, and was
> told it was superior to the old varnish. I also heard it was similar to
> an epoxy coating. I never really questioned any of that, I just tried it
> and liked it. I have not used any of that sort of thing in years. THese
> days, moldings come pre-finished, and I use that. I was never a big fan
> of anything that involves using a paint brush. I did make some patio
> tables though and used tung oil, which I like the look, it's durable
> outdoors, and just gets wiped on.
"Superior" is pretty generic term; as with most any product they have
strengths and weaknesses and specific applications where they're the
cat's meow and others, 'not so much'.
The wiping varnishes (of which the tung oil products are one) are indeed
very easy to apply, but they're one of the least durable of all
finishes. They have the advantage they're easy to repair/restore by
another application.
--
...
> I never knew they made it as a water base. Actually, I dont know how it
> can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
> polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
> base.
component which is included in the carrier for application. Initially,
all were oil-based, yes, but EPA (and CA) have fixed that by
introduction of such strict VOC limitations that couldn't be met other
than by eliminating the hydrocarbons (the oil carrier, iow).
Oil-based polyurethanes are elastic resins in liquid form, mainly
comprise of acids derived from vegetable oil, nitrogen-based chemical
amalgams, and isocyanates, suspended in mineral spirits. As noted
above, restrictions on emissions has led to water-based polyurethane
products, basically the suspension of polyurethane in water. Needless
to say, there's some significant alchemy going on inside the can with
surfactants and the like to create a miscible mixture, but that's the
basic product.
A polyurethane coating cures when some of its chemical elements form
powerful links with one another after reacting with atmospheric oxygen
(hence the "poly" as opposed to simply "urethane").
There's now a whole new class of "water-based oil-modified" which are
low VOC-compliant, water-cleanup but with the characteristic amber color
of oil-based as opposed to the clear water-based.
> I recall first learning about polyurethane in the early 1970s, and was
> told it was superior to the old varnish. I also heard it was similar to
> an epoxy coating. I never really questioned any of that, I just tried it
> and liked it. I have not used any of that sort of thing in years. THese
> days, moldings come pre-finished, and I use that. I was never a big fan
> of anything that involves using a paint brush. I did make some patio
> tables though and used tung oil, which I like the look, it's durable
> outdoors, and just gets wiped on.
strengths and weaknesses and specific applications where they're the
cat's meow and others, 'not so much'.
The wiping varnishes (of which the tung oil products are one) are indeed
very easy to apply, but they're one of the least durable of all
finishes. They have the advantage they're easy to repair/restore by
another application.
--
dadiOH
Jan 1, 2016, 1:28:37 PM1/1/16
to
Paint...@unlisted.moc wrote:
>> What about water based polyurethane?????
>
> I never knew they made it as a water base. Actually, I dont know how
> it can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
> polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
> base.
Two kinds of consumer poly:
>> What about water based polyurethane?????
>
> I never knew they made it as a water base. Actually, I dont know how
> it can be called "polyurethane" if it's water based. I though that
> polyurethane means it's in a class of it's own, but closer to an oil
> base.
1. oil base which is a combination of alkyd and polyurethane resins.
2. water base which is a combination of acrylic and polyurethane resins.
The oil base is far superior. The only advantage I can see to the water
base - besides the water clean up - is that it colors the wood very little.
Tekkie®
Jan 1, 2016, 3:50:16 PM1/1/16
to
Oren posted for all of us...
> >
> >It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
>
> Why?! The OP already knows because of his question.
>
> Anything else I can help you with?
>
Find the exit?
--
Tekkie
> >
> >It would help if you said what Floetrol is !!!
>
> Why?! The OP already knows because of his question.
>
> Anything else I can help you with?
>
--
Tekkie
Tekkie®
Jan 1, 2016, 3:53:06 PM1/1/16
to
Oren posted for all of us...
>
>
Flomax.
--
Tekkie
Tekkie®
Jan 1, 2016, 3:55:49 PM1/1/16
to
dpb posted for all of us...
>
> Need to read up..
>
HAAA, that is funny. HG ain't reading nuthin'
--
Tekkie
>
> Need to read up..
>
HAAA, that is funny. HG ain't reading nuthin'
--
Tekkie
HWFman
Apr 10, 2021, 12:31:12 PM4/10/21
to
I'm in the Hardwood Floor industry. Years ago I use to use Penetrol in my oil based polyurethane, and it worked very well. It gave me more working time when I had to jump from one room to another then come down an ajointing part of the house such as a hallway and was able to go back over the doorway of each room without pulling or dragging the polyurethane. It also flow out real nice. I always used Penetrol on hot days when I would coat a floor for the reason it gave me more work time before dragging or pulling the polyurethane when went back over it such as doorways etc. I wish I could still get it. But the Flood Floetrol CAN NOT be used in water based polyurethane. Although there is an additive you can buy to slow down the drink time on water based finish. I'm not to sure who makes it , but I think Bona does.
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-floetrol-be-added-to-polyurethane-863212-.htm
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-floetrol-be-added-to-polyurethane-863212-.htm
Tekkie©
Apr 10, 2021, 2:19:30 PM4/10/21
to
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 16:31:07 +0000, HWFman posted for all of us to digest...
>
> I'm in the Hardwood Floor industry. Years ago I use to use Penetrol in my oil based polyurethane, and it worked very well. It gave me more working time when I had to jump from one room to another then come down an ajointing part of the house such as a hallway and was able to go back over the doorway of each room without pulling
or dragging the polyurethane. It also flow out real nice. I always used Penetrol on hot days when I would coat a floor for the reason it gave me more work time before dragging or pulling the polyurethane when went back over it such as doorways etc. I wish I could still get it. But the Flood Floetrol CAN NOT be used in water based
polyurethane. Although there is an additive you can buy to slow down the drink time on water based finish. I'm not to sure who makes it , but I think Bona does.
--
Tekkie
Clare Snyder
Apr 10, 2021, 11:42:29 PM4/10/21
to
On Sat, 10 Apr 2021 14:19:29 -0400, Tekkie© <Tek...@comcast.net>
wrote:
From furnitureflippa.com:
Yes, you can thin water-based polyurethane using Floetrol however
there is now a risk your water-based poly can turn yellow over time.
Floetrol is designed for latex-based paints and is meant to improve
flow when applying using a brush or roller. Since water-based
polyurethane is already quite thin and flows quite easy it isn’t
necessary when applying using a brush or roller.
If you are working in a warm work environment adding no more than 10%
Floetrol to your water-based polyurethane could improve your flow
during application. But water could also do the same effect, so in my
opinion, I would stay away from Floetrol when using water-based
polyurethane, it isn’t necessary.
I'll disagree about the equivalency of thinning with water - Floetrol
and water behave significantly different as thinning / retarding
agents.
wrote:
Yes, you can thin water-based polyurethane using Floetrol however
there is now a risk your water-based poly can turn yellow over time.
Floetrol is designed for latex-based paints and is meant to improve
flow when applying using a brush or roller. Since water-based
polyurethane is already quite thin and flows quite easy it isn’t
necessary when applying using a brush or roller.
If you are working in a warm work environment adding no more than 10%
Floetrol to your water-based polyurethane could improve your flow
during application. But water could also do the same effect, so in my
opinion, I would stay away from Floetrol when using water-based
polyurethane, it isn’t necessary.
I'll disagree about the equivalency of thinning with water - Floetrol
and water behave significantly different as thinning / retarding
agents.
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