I have a Benzomatic torch, but would like a simple way to repair hole
before I repaint.
Thanks for your help.
Bruce
If you have a hole in your grill, buy a new grill. If you are really
stubborn, get a small section of sheet metal and some sheet metal screws and
hack up a patch.
Or you could just leave it alone and call it a vent.
Jon
1.2 inch bolt and fender washers:)
have you EVER painted a grill before?
Grill paint for high temperatures in pricey and never lasts like the
original factory finish:( Plus it STINKS the first few times you se
grill:(
Yeah, if you have a broken window pane, buy a whole new window.
If the frame is broken, yes.
That calls for a new house.
WINDOW PANE.
Using Jon Danniken's logic.
Do you know what an analogy is? ...or do you not know how to read?
Nobody else said it, so I will- how old is the grill? You said 'dome',
so I am assuming this is the classic charcoal model. According to the
website ( http://www.weber.com/help//warranties.aspx ), there is a 10
year warranty against rust/burn-through. Is there still a data plate on
yours? Before you start sanding, it may be worth taking some digital
pics of data plate and the hole, and asking them. Sometimes,
manufacturers even go beyond the warranty period as a goodwill gesture,
since so few people ever collect- they just chuck it and buy a new one.
--
aem sends...
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Bruce K." <brucea...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:f43tu51j1fb7k3t1u...@4ax.com...
Apparently you don't. The OP didn't say I have a 1/2" hole in my
grill's lid and the hinges are broken.
> or do you not know how to read?
Apparently you don't.
Get the last word in like you always have to.
"Ron" <BigEL...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:95e3ebab-7932-40f5...@e28g2000vbd.googlegroups.com...
>> >Yeah, if you have a broken window pane, buy a whole new window.
>>
>> If the frame is broken, yes.
>
> WINDOW PANE.
I have a scratch on one of the rims on my truck. According to these jokers
I need to replace the axle. I don't know if these people are willfully
ignorant,
purposefully misleading, or just plain assholes. There seems to be a great
number of individuals who fall into each of the above categories with the
main theme in this group being to not give a direct, succinct answer, and to
go off on a tangent about possibilities that are generally irrelevant to the
question at hand.
If your torch is a mixing torch, and you have the Oxygen and Mapp gas to
go with it, all you need is a steel brazing rod and a metal plate to braze
into place.
High-temp, glossy, brake-caliper paint might hold up to the temperature.
It is supposedly good up to 900 F. I can't vouch for it at all, and can't give
a recommendation, but this could be a learning experience and you could
get back to us with this, eh?
Of course, I am presuming that you know how to braze and such. If not, this
could be a little project to learn on. :)
An option is to take the lid to a local weld shop and have them Mig a patch
piece onto it. This might cost ten bucks, or a six pack.
Am I right in thinking that the grill is mostly functional but needs a bit of
maintenance,
and rather than spend $90+ on a new Weber you are trying to fix the trusty ol'
friend?
Once there is a hole in the grill, it's done.
>> or do you not know how to read?
>
>Apparently you don't.
IKWYABWAI?
>Get the last word in like you always have to.
In this case, since you made a point that needed answering, yes.
>On May 15, 8:08�am, "Jon Danniken"
><jonSPAMMENOTdanni...@yahSPAMhoo.com> wrote:
>> Bruce K. wrote:
>> > Discovered 1/2 inch hole in my Weber Grill dome.
>>
>> > I have a Benzomatic torch, but would like a simple way to repair hole
>> > before I repaint.
>>
>> If you have a hole in your grill, buy a new grill.
This is alt.home.repair. Not alt.home.waste.money.
And the grill will work fine with the hole.
I didn't write that. Quite the opposite in fact. Although there is at
least one idiot in here that thinks that if a *Webber* grill has a
1/2" hole in the lid "it's done".
I'm all for repairing things when feasible but one has to wonder it the lid
is rusting out , just how solid is the rest of the grill ?? It would really
suck to have burning charcoal falling onto the deck...Just say'in....
I rebuilt my now 30 year old gas grill a few years ago. Ground off the
bolts holding it together, put the cast alunimum parts in my gas self
cleaning oven, they came out looking brand new.
Replaced wood shelves with steel, repainted and reassembled. Had some
rusty steel areas welded.
New burner, new regulator and hose. Finding a replacement burner
required a stop at a speciality grill store.
It was a BIG job, but well worth it since it was my moms grill. We had
lots of nice meals on that before she died.
It would of been far easier and cheaper to buy a new grill, but this
project wet far beyond $$$
setiment has value too:)
True that- Every time I visit my father, he gives me some more of his
old tools, since he isn't up to doing much any more, at the age of 83.
Some of them are the same tools he taught me with, 40+ years ago. They
won't get loaned out, or live in a damp toolbox in the garage.
--
aem sends...
Yes, I can get a brand new Weber charcoal kettle type grill from Lowes
for under $100. Actually, I can get a new one from them for less than $90.
God only knows if that link will work but I went to Lowes.com and did a
search for "Weber".
Jay
Try tinyurl.com.
I'm not talking about a overpriced regular charcoal grill. You can buy
a off-brand for about 30 bucks. I'm talking about a "REAL" Weber gas
grill. Entry level for those is probably around $400.
But since the OP didn't specify.............
>On May 16, 12:07�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> On Sat, 15 May 2010 11:31:48 -0700 (PDT), Ron <BigELil...@msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >On May 15, 8:08�am, "Jon Danniken"
>> ><jonSPAMMENOTdanni...@yahSPAMhoo.com> wrote:
>> >> Bruce K. wrote:
>> >> > Discovered 1/2 inch hole in my Weber Grill dome.
>>
>> >> > I have a Benzomatic torch, but would like a simple way to repair hole
>> >> > before I repaint.
>>
>> >> If you have a hole in your grill, buy a new grill.
>>
>> This is alt.home.repair. �Not alt.home.waste.money.
>>
>> And the grill will work fine with the hole. �
>
>I didn't write that.
I was relying on people to note the level of indentation. He had two
">" signs. I thought I might follow with a reply to your single >
indentation, but didn't have anything to say. If I had also written
something in reply to you, would that have made the whole reply okay?
What is the concensus here? Is it okay to rely on the number of quote
indicators, or must the reply be amended by for example, deleting the
attribution line at the top?
The number of > signs is not always a reliable indicator, especially if
one or more people in the chain use Google or other non-standard posting
programs. (I learned about Google the hard way- I have to use Google
Groups when visiting relatives, since none of them are into Usenet, and
it is bad manners to reconfig somebody else's computer.) Plus, of
course, if anyone upthread has done snips without flagging them, it gets
more confusing. If you snip somebody's entire post out of a thread, yes,
you should also delete their name, IMHO. I usually try to swim upthread
and find a post that contains the fewest authors as possible, as close
to the part I am replying to as possible. If it is a long involved
thread and I am replying to multiple people, I may post a flag at the
top, and reply in-line, marking my words with something other than a >.
But some people get all hissy at that, so I have been doing it less and
less, and posting multiple seperate replies instead.
I TRY to be careful about attributions and clipping, but even I screw up
once in a while, and I have been online over twenty years now.
--
aem sends...
>>> Or he can buy a new one for under $100. [or a lightly used one on
>>> craigslist for 1/2 of that]
>>
>> A Weber????
>
> Then again I just saw your post recommending that the OP buy a new
> grill.
> So at least 3 people are now recommending that the OP buy a new grill
> just because it has a small hole in the lid.
>
> Again, can you buy a Weber at Lowes for under $100.00? It's always
> easy to tell someone else to spend money, eh?
For me, patching it for nothing with a couple washers and a bolt makes more
sense than spending $100 for something that won't do the job any better. Maybe
it'll last a year - maybe ten years. Either way, I've saved unnecessary expense.
Someone will probably offer a used one on freecycle or craigslist before the
repair fails.
> On 5/16/2010 12:13 PM, Ron wrote:
>> Again, can you buy a Weber at Lowes for under $100.00? It's always
>> easy to tell someone else to spend money, eh?
>
>
>
>
> Yes, I can get a brand new Weber charcoal kettle type grill from Lowes
> for under $100. Actually, I can get a new one from them for less than
> $90.
>
I can't figure out how the Weber top "rusted out".
I thought they were aluminum,and also,the top is domed so water runs off
it. I can see the cooking or coal grids rusting out,but you can buy new
replacements.
Plus,if it's aluminum,you could just pop-rivet a patch onto it.
Aluminum doesn't braze or solder easily. Welding thin aluminum is not
easy,either.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
I ended up with a lot of my dads tools. It is special to be using them
while thinking of Dad. Although Dad wasn't always the happiest guy, in
fact when he was around most of us scrambled for safety! But when it
came time for him to do repairs, I was always there right next to him.
What ever he did I wanted to learn, I was just telling my mom a story
about a day fixing some plumbing, the torch was starting the wood on
fire so he told me to get a piece of metal to block the flame. I asked
How about an old Lisence plate? Yes, hurry up!! Oh you should have
heard him bitching when he discovered that back in the late 60's or
early 70's the changed to aluminum plates and he melted a hole through
it in no time! A little scary then, now I laugh about it. Hey, dad was
dad.
Just a few days ago I found an old tape measure of his. Trying to
remember the name, something like "Hankle and Mcoy" Like most of them
it was small, all metal of course. "Add two inches", it was about 2
inches square and 5/8 wide. No hold/lock button. I also have his 50'
also. Simple things like a carpenters square, with drips of paint, rust
here and there. I scraped off the paint and put some muriatic acid on
it and lightly brushed both side. Hosed it off and it looked almost
new. Gave it 2 coats of car wax and hung it on the wall.
Think about it. A container made of STAMPED aluminum holding a charcoal
fire for several hours? Ever seen an aluminum-sided house after a fire?
Webers are made of enameled steel, much like an old speckled-blue coffee
pot.
I'm no expert in aluminum alloys, but the only heat-contact aluminum
parts I have ever seen were cast or spun, not stamped, and much thicker
and harder than any sheet aluminum I have ever seen.
--
aem sends....
Thanks for the reply.
In this case, I quoted the whole post, including the one line from the
previous poster.
> The number of > signs is not always a reliable indicator, especially if
> one or more people in the chain use Google or other non-standard posting
> programs. (I learned about Google the hard way- I have to use Google
> Groups when visiting relatives
I use GG 90% of the time and never have a problem.
The problem is with other newsreaders - Outlook Express for one - that
don't add the ">"
But that wasn't the problem in this case.
You need to learn how to reply to a post correctly, period.
Mine is a ceramic coated steel.
If it was dented/chipped...it would rust.
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> Jay Hanig <jayh...@charter.net> wrote in
>> news:UlWHn.7093$V%2....@newsfe08.iad:
>>
>>> On 5/16/2010 12:13 PM, Ron wrote:
>>>> Again, can you buy a Weber at Lowes for under $100.00? It's always
>>>> easy to tell someone else to spend money, eh?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, I can get a brand new Weber charcoal kettle type grill from
>>> Lowes for under $100. Actually, I can get a new one from them for
>>> less than $90.
>>>
>>
>>
>> I can't figure out how the Weber top "rusted out".
>> I thought they were aluminum,and also,the top is domed so water runs
>> off it. I can see the cooking or coal grids rusting out,but you can
>> buy new replacements.
>>
>> Plus,if it's aluminum,you could just pop-rivet a patch onto it.
>> Aluminum doesn't braze or solder easily. Welding thin aluminum is not
>> easy,either.
>>
>
> Think about it. A container made of STAMPED aluminum holding a
> charcoal fire for several hours? Ever seen an aluminum-sided house
> after a fire?
the DOME (the lid) doesn't hold the hot coals,nor does the bottom of a
Weber;there's a steel grid to hold the coals,so air can circulate from the
bottom and the ash drops off the coals(that's a major feature,BTW).
I've got a similar domed grill with an aluminum domed lid and bottom and it
stays out in the rain,no burnthru. I've had the coal grid rust out.
Heck,most people grill with the lid off anyways.
Maybe he left it off and water puddled in it,on the inside.
That would explain the rust,if it's a steel lid.
Does Weber paint the inside of the lid??
>
> Webers are made of enameled steel, much like an old speckled-blue
> coffee pot.
>
> I'm no expert in aluminum alloys, but the only heat-contact aluminum
> parts I have ever seen were cast or spun, not stamped, and much
> thicker and harder than any sheet aluminum I have ever seen.
>
except there's no "heat-contact" for a Weber's -lid-.
It's far from the coals.
But,since it's steel,he could make a small patch,and braze it on with a
Bernz-o-matic oxy-MAPP torch. HD sells a torch kit that includes enough
brazing rod to do that small a job. then he could use hi-temp grill paint
to finish it. they also sell sheet steel,although a bit pricy.
Sure,it won't be the porcelainized enamel of the original,but good enough.
I checked,Weber doesn't sell the lid alone.
so,it's patch,live with the hole,or buy a new grill.
>On May 17, 1:12�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:,
So are you going to tell me what you think is correct, or just
complain?
And there were no missing ">" signs. It was clear to anyone who paid
attention.
>
>On May 17, 1:12�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:,
Well, I thought you complained the first time too, but it was only
this time. So I withdrawn the complaint about your complaining,
since you only did once, but it still wasn't helpful.
I'd still like to know what google groups does to their posts that prevents IE
from quoteing properly. They are the only posts that cause the problem.
I've been using it for awhile. Still no explanation of what google is doing.