P-trap slip joint still leaking
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
STILL leaking.
I've been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop's Hardware, Ace, Home Depot,
and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a "special" slip joint nut and washer
for a copper fitting.
They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
stop it.
The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
pipe.
Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?
If that doesn't work I'm going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
give up.
Joe
<mkir...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:af93e3bc-3d66-4108...@8g2000prt.googlegroups.com...
Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
complained about a problem. Here it was an 1-1/4" ptrap, going into a
1-1/2" drain, there is a special reducing washer for this application. If
you are positive you have the correct sizes, an unorthodox way is to smear
silicone and hand tighten.
Limp Arbor
I would go buy one of these (either 1 1/2 or 2" depending on your
currnet fitting) and try the nut that comes with it.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Cello-WDSJ-20-1-1-4-Copper-DWV-Sweat-Trap-Adapter-C-x-Compr
http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/products/zoom/wdsj-20-2.jpg
I bought one of these at HD a few months ago and the nut had an
integrated washer that pressed against the inside flare of the copper
fitting and pressed tight to the inserted PVC. No plastic cone washer
or rubber washer. Worked great.
Joe
<mkir...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:af93e3bc-3d66-4108...@8g2000prt.googlegroups.com...
Are you sure the washer is the correct size? Seen b/4 where someone
jamesgangnc
Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight
connection?
Limp Arbor
Finally found the picture of what I'm talking about. I could not get
my copper to pvc trap adapters to stop dripping without using this
kind of nut (in copper) that comes with a copper trap adapter.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/tdp-1andaquarter-poly-sj-nut-builtinwasher.jpg
Mr...@totally.invalid
wrote:
Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.
--
Mr.E
Oren
>Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
>and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
>the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.
I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
work.
Red Green
news:ihv6vf$c4q$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
What Joe is referring to:
Red Green
4c39-a201-1...@r4g2000prm.googlegroups.com:
Topped off with roofing cement!
Oren
wrote:
Yes and note the sizes:
�Inlet: 1 1/2"
�Outlet: 1 1/4"
That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing
stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me.
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
> "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote in news:ba2071be-36f7-
> 4c39-a201-1170831ee...@r4g2000prm.googlegroups.com:
>
> > On Jan 28, 2:49 pm, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> >> On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 15:28:58 -0500, M...@totally.invalid wrote:
> >> >Make sure the point of the cone washer is entering the copper socket
> >> >and not catching on a flat surface. The cone nose must compress into
> >> >the copper fitting to clamp the tailpiece.
>
> >> I had a cone washer leaking, so I grabbed one from my plumbing stash.
> >> It leaked also. Apparently there are different sizes?
>
> > I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
> > involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
> > outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
> > work.
>
> Topped off with roofing cement!
Never thought of that<G>
Oren
>> > I would smear silicone rubber on evrything that could possibly be
>> > involved in this and put it together, smear some more SR on the
>> > outside of everything, let it sit overnight and see if that doesn't
>> > work.
>>
>> Topped off with roofing cement!
>
>Never thought of that<G>
Why not? Three-ply duct tape works wonders on top of the roofing tar.
Red Green
4ax.com:
Hmmmm.... You da man Oren.
Red Green
news:57f6k6def7he1m7a6...@4ax.com:
> 肘nlet: 1 1/2"
> 桧utlet: 1 1/4"
>
> That explains why I grabbed a wrong size washer from my plumbing
> stash.... the washer leaked even after changing one out. Silly me.
This is getting scarey. Replies on plumbing from me that actually
contribute.
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> Did you try the steps I suggested to confirm that you have a tight
> connection?
Yes, it slips right out no matter how tight I make the nut.
Ed Pawlowski
<mkir...@rochester.rr.com> wrote in message
news:e0f14825-3e6a-4c72...@d2g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
it so can't say for sure.
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
> pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
> other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
> it so can't say for sure.
Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.
Oren
wrote:
Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
nut? There is not much fight if things fit.
Pictures?
aemeijers
I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I
(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and
bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.
--
aem sends...
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
>On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
>> On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), mkir...@rochester.rr.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Jan 29, 2:50 pm, "Ed Pawlowski"<e...@snetnospam.net> wrote:
>>>> Obviously, you either need a smaller diameter washer or a larger diameter
>>>> pipe. Maybe you'll have to change it out unless you can seal it with the
>>>> other suggestions. It may be just as easy to swap the pip, but I can't see
>>>> it so can't say for sure.
>>>
>>> Everything's 1-1/2". That's why its driving me nuts.
>>
>> Is anything binding, not fitting together easily before tightening the
>> nut? There is not much fight if things fit.
>>
>> Pictures?
>
>I'm hearing some faint bells go off here.
Yep.
>I had a similar leak until I
>(a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and
...or accidentally threw it out.
>(b) went out and
>bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
>to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
>sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
>the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.
Unless it's a new installation (within the last couple of years) I now throw
away the washers and plastic nuts and use new ones. These things are cheap
and are often damaged in a way that's not obvious.
Tony Hwang
Gmmm,
Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.
Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
inclined, LOL!
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
They do but they're also available individually.
>Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
>inclined, LOL!
Some are lucky enough to have plumbing that works forever, too, I suppose.
hal...@aol.com
<k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> On Sat, 29 Jan 2011 18:57:34 -0700, Tony Hwang <drago...@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> >k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
>
> >>> On 1/29/2011 5:57 PM, Oren wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
The problem is those P traps are junk quality:(
I havent had a leak in years since I started putting silicone caulk on
the fittings right before putting them together.
The bathtub caulk is cheap, stops any leaks:) and the fittings still
come apart easily when necessary:)
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
I don't have problems once the parts are replaced, but your idea is
interesting. Does any leftover caulk cause problems down the road?
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> I'm hearing some faint bells go off here. I had a similar leak until I
> (a) pointed the damn washer in the other direction and (b) went out and
> bought a metal nut, rather than the plastic one that came with the trap,
> to hold the tailpiece into the metal pipe coming out of the wall. Not
> sure if that applies to OP's situation, but unless he already threw out
> the old parts, it doesn't cost anything to try.
I think I finally got it. Running the dishwasher right now, and no
drips!
It took FIVE different nuts and washers to find one that would seal
up. The one that finally worked was from Lowes, a metal nut with a
super-soft orange washer.
I tried the plastic nut with plastic washer from the kit, metal nuts
with tapered rubber washers in each direction, metal nut with square
rubber washer... all leaked.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. Leave it, as long as there are
no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. It's cheaper
than insanity.
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> Gmmm,
> Don't they come as whole kit? I never had trouble working on P trap.
> Gee-Whiz...... What is going on? Really some are never mechanically
> inclined, LOL!
I bought a kit.
The kit does NOT come with:
1. A nut and washer for the drain stack.
2. Tailpiece for the sink drain basket.
3. Nut and washer for the tailpiece.
Red Green
news:gg2bk6dutu65i9cp6...@4ax.com:
Another options on plastic joints a bit more serious than roofing
cement.
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Rectorseal-23710-1-3-4-Ptfe-Pipe-Thrd-Sealant-5058920.html
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
<k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:
> Sounds like you have a damaged part in there. Leave it, as long as there are
> no leaks, but next time you go in there, replace everything. It's cheaper
> than insanity.
That's the thing. I DID replace everything that was replaceable.
TWICE.
BTW, it still leaks. Only one drop every time the sump pump runs,
which is a HUGE improvement over a tablespoon. Luckily the sump pump
only runs when the laundry machine drains. Once a week.
I'm going to let it go a while. Hopefully with some crud and mineral
deposits it will seal up.
Tommyboy
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/P-trap-slip-joint-still-leaking-617893-.htm
Tommyboy wrote:
mkir...@rochester.rr.com wrote:
> The slip joint where my PVC sink trap enters the copper drain stack is
> STILL leaking.
> I\'ve been to the plumbing supply, Mom&Pop\'s Hardware, Ace, Home
> Depot,
> and Lowes. NOBODY has heard of a \"special\" slip joint nut and
> washer
> for a copper fitting.
> They keep sending me home with exactly what I already have. New trap
> parts, nuts and washers slow the leak to varying degrees, but never
> stop it.
> The water is CLEARLY coming out between the washer and the PVC trap
> pipe.
> Should I just slather some liquid pipe dope on the PVC, stuff it into
> the copper, nut it up, and be done with it?
> If that doesn\'t work I\'m going to wrap it with Mighty Fix-it tape and
> give up.
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You probably have the same problem I frequently encounter. You are
attaching a metal tailpiece to a pvc ptrap and the hard plastic beveled
washer is still allowing a small amount of water to leak through and come
out around the plastic nut. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a rubber
washer designed to go into the nut for a metal nut fitting. You put the
nut plastic ptrap nut on first, then the soft rubber washer and finally
the hard plastic beveled washer. When you tighten down the nut, it will
cause the soft rubber washer to compress against that hard plastic washer
and form a much more watertight connection around the metal tailpiece and
plastic nut. I think the issue is those plastic washers are so hard they
don\'t compress well around the metal tailpiece. The soft rubber washer
will, and the extra benefit is you can tighten the plastic nut without
cracking the plastic washer if you happen to over tighten the nut. The
rubber washer ( orange at Lowes ) is about 25 to 50 cents. Well worth the
aggravation.
bob haller
(Tommyboy) wrote:
> responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/P-trap-slip-joint-still-leak...
>
>
>
>
>
> Tommyboy wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
leaks like these are why i use bathtub silicone sealer on the joints,
its cheap, easily removable in the future, and ends all leaks.
clean and dry all connections totally, let parts sit to dry or use a
hairdryer or heat gun so no moisture remains!
Then butter up the pieces and assemble, let dry a hour or so and dont
overtighten fittings which are really cheap junk quality to begin
with, and can distort if over tightened.
end of leaks forever:)
Red Green
news:806f1$4daedbc9$45499b77$17...@news.flashnewsgroups.com:
> responding to
> http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/P-trap-slip-joint-still-leakin
He's proably drowned since Jan 28th when it was posted.
More timely Homeowners Hub help.
JIMMIE
(Tommyboy) wrote:
> responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/P-trap-slip-joint-still-leak...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Tommyboy wrote:
Ive had same problems with the hard plastic even on PVC to PVC, same
fix.
Jimmie
aemeijers
When I had the same problem, I used a metal nut instead of the plastic
one, along with the rubber washer instead of the plastic one, and it
stopped leaking.
If I ever get rich enough to build a house, I'm gonna run the drains
through the floor, instead of the wall. In my experience, that hard-90
right inside the wall is where the hairballs and soap gunk love to hold
on for dear life. When the binary drain cleaners won't clear a slow or
clogged bathroom drain, running a 12" bottle brush into the hole on
wall, as far as it will reach around the corner, almost always clears
things right up.
--
aem sends...
bob haller
> On 4/20/2011 9:12 AM, Tommyboy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > responding to
> > Tommyboy wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
the silicone caulk has never caused a problem, I just use enough to
seal small openings not big gobs.
besides if you ever have a problem its very easily removable and
doesnt weld the joints or anything like that.
A plumber did that here once after I was unable to seal a joint, I
stole his idea:)