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Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.
Heat with torch. Wear safety glasses!!
You don't have to remove the handle to work on the faucet, if you can
reomve the big ring nut right under the handle. Which is the next
step after removing the handle anyhow.
A rubber self-tightening strap wrench would be good for removing the
big round nut. Wouldn't scratch, and they've been selling those
things even at dollar stores in the last 3 or 4 years. Otherwise
water pump pliers and something inside the jaws to protect the chrome.
And yes, sometimes the "seat" will stick on something and cause the
handle to not move. The problem then is either the seat (replace both
seats and springs) or the ball. If the ball needs replacing, then and
only then you have to remove the handle, but at least you won't be
bending over the sink. Try liquid wrench I suppose. They suggest
tapping or hitting the item so that it vibrates and the liquid wrench
works its way inside. Heating is good if it doesn't hurt the chrome
- about that I don't know.
I might try the torch when I am prepared to sacrifice the handle as I also
wonder about the chrome finish surviving the heat.
Thanks for the comments.
I just had this problem with a delta faucet. Drill out the set screw.
Dave M.
>The single lever Delta kitchen faucet [model 21460 - made in Denmark] has an
>occassional dribble from the top. Minor, but I wanted to remove the handle
>to tighten or replace the fittings.
>The set screw will not move with an allen wrench and all the force I can
>exert with pliers as leverage. Even a rachet with an allen fitting fails.
>Short of drilling the screw out and buying a new handle, any ideas?
Byetw, when you can't loosen a screw, try tightening it. Sometimes
that frees it up.
This would also be a good time to have a left-handed drill bit, for
driling the thing out, going counter clockwise. A good chance it
would start to unscrew at a certain point, with enough thread in the
hole to just use a new set scgrwe.
Harbor Freight now has a set of 4 LH drill bits, at a Chinese price.
And Vermont American has 2 or 3 sizes. The small one(s) is/are cheap.
>Thank you.
> No Harbor Freight near me [in Hawaii] and shipping is usually an insult.
> The LH drills are on my list of fun stuff to buy next time I'm in Manila.
> :)
>
You can sharpen a RH drill bit so that it will cut when turning CCW.
You'll have to pull it out of the hole frequently to clear the chips,
but it's worth a try for your one time application, providing that allen
head screw isn't too hard.
And when done, you can jusr resharpen it back to being a RH drill <G>.
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."
John Keiser wrote:
-------------------------------------
Here's what worked for me today:
Buy a can of compressed "air" for dusting photos, lenses, etc. Insert the
Allen wrench into the setscrew and heat the wrench with a torch (thus
sparing the faucet handle). Wait for the heat to migrate into the screw
and handle, remove the wrench, then invert the can of "air" (which will
produce super-cold liquid) and spray through the nozzle tube into the
setscrew. This breaks the bond between setscrew and handle, allowing the
screw to be removed. No drilling, no new parts, no handle damage!
I am going to try this procedure on some other allens that get stuck
for my job.
Once its out dont forget to replace allen preferably with a stainless
one but lube the hole well before installing new allen