Samsung Smart TV no longer defaults to HDMI input.

[Marilyn Manson]

I have a Samsung Smart TV (UN50NU6950FXZA) which just started
acting up. When powering on it no longer defaults to the HDMI input
coming from the cable DVR box. The TV now defaults to the Samsung
TV Plus app*, which a set of free TV channels provided by Samsung. I
have to manually switch the source to HDMI if I turn the TV on.

*Well, it sort of defaults to the TV plus app. It shows the TV Plus logo in
the upper corner and it displays the name/number of the channel that
it was last tuned to, but it doesn't actually display the channel. The
screen just goes blank after a couple of seconds. If I select a different
channel, it will then display it. When it first powers on it's kind of in a
TV Plus-esque limbo.

I called Samsung and they tried to blame my cable provider's equipment.
When I told them that I tried both a different HDMI cable and even a
different cable set-top box, they were stuck. The only other suggestion
they had was to try a factory reset. Great, now I'll have to reload all my
apps, hoping I remember what password I used years ago, etc.

I'm really just venting but also sort of hoping that someone has other
suggestions to try before I do the factory reset. No, there is no "Default
Power On Source" that needs to be selected in the settings. If there is a
signal at the HDMI port, it's supposed to default to that.

[Marilyn Manson]

I found a possible solution but I can't test it tonight. I need to be careful
because it can apparently turn my TV into a 50" brick.

It seems that there may be a service menu built into the TV where you can
actually force the default power on source to be an HDMI port.

Getting to the service menu:

https://en.tab-tv.com/?p=20607

Once there:

https://en.tab-tv.com/?p=23767 (Secret Menu section)

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

Just a thought - is the TV picking up a wifi source that wasn't
there - before this problem started ?
I'd probably do a little trial & error before trying the service
menu .. maybe disable the wifi ; shut everything down & re-start
? the idea being that it will revert to HDMI as default ?
Good luck - let us know how it turns out.
John T.

[Dean Hoffman]

Anything here useful?
<https://us.community.samsung.com/t5/HD-and-UHD-TVs/un50nu6950fxza-TV-forces-me-to-reset-network-settings-every-time/td-p/1130426>

[Nil]

On 08 Jun 2021, Marilyn Manson <comawhit...@gmail.com> wrote
in alt.home.repair:

My Samsung TV remembers its most recent input and will return to it
when you turn it on. This seems like the most logical way for it to
work.

The TV has a screen where you can set it to automatically install
software updates, or to check manually for updates. Maybe there's a new
update that will fix a known problem.

I wouldn't hesitate much to do the factory reset. I only have a couple
of apps that require passwords and I know them.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

I think you'd lose your Favourites also - for me that's 4 sets -
mine, my wife's, Kids, Sports.. ~ 30 minutes of clicking
to get them all re-set ..
John T.

[Scott Lurndal]

Nil <redn...@REMOVETHIScomcast.net> writes:
>On 08 Jun 2021, Marilyn Manson <comawhit...@gmail.com> wrote
>in alt.home.repair:
>

>> I'm really just venting but also sort of hoping that someone has
>> other suggestions to try before I do the factory reset. No, there
>> is no "Default Power On Source" that needs to be selected in the
>> settings. If there is a signal at the HDMI port, it's supposed to
>> default to that.
>
>My Samsung TV remembers its most recent input and will return to it
>when you turn it on. This seems like the most logical way for it to
>work.

Many "smart" TV's support CEC device control. If enabled on the
TV, it will automatically switch HDMI ports if or when the device
attached to that port is powered on or changes state.

There is usually a menu item on the TV to disable CEC control either
globally or on a per-HDMI-port basis.

This is usually the cause of unexpected HDMI port switches by the TV.

https://support.google.com/chromecast/answer/7199917?hl=en

[Hal Bundy]

Maybe try unplugging power for 60 seconds.

[Nil]

On 09 Jun 2021, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) wrote in
alt.home.repair:

> Many "smart" TV's support CEC device control. If enabled on the
> TV, it will automatically switch HDMI ports if or when the device
> attached to that port is powered on or changes state.
>
> There is usually a menu item on the TV to disable CEC control either
> globally or on a per-HDMI-port basis.
>
> This is usually the cause of unexpected HDMI port switches by the TV.
>
> https://support.google.com/chromecast/answer/7199917?hl=en

Interesting! My TV does, in fact, have a setting to globally turn CEC
on/off. It's actually turned on now, but I don't have any devices
permanently connected to it to control. I've seen the setting before
but I didn't know what it did.

[Marilyn Manson]

My TV is hardwired via ethernet to the cable modem/router.

It doesn't matter if the modem/router is on or off or if the ethernet
cable is connected or not. It still defaults to showing the name/number
of the last TV+ station that was chosen and then the TV goes blank.

As a reminder, once the TV goes blank, I either need to switch the source
to the Cable box HDMI port or use the remote to go up or down one TV+ channel
in order to get a picture or sound. The only difference when the modem/router
is off or the ethernet cable is disconnected is that the TV, obviously, will not
display the chosen channel but it will at that point tell me the network is not
connected.

I have also disconnected all cables except for power and the cable box HDMI
cable. It still (tries to) power on to TV+.

[Marilyn Manson]

Samsung's version of CEC is Anynet+.

It was/is set to On. Turning it off made no difference so I turned it back on.

[Marilyn Manson]

All the basic troubleshooting steps have been taken.

- Unplugged the TV
- Rebooted the cable box
- Swapped out the cable box
- Swapped out the HDMI cable
- Turned off the cable modem/router
- Removed all cables to the TV except for power and the HDMI cable from
the cable box.

Nothing changes. TV powers on to the TV Plus app then the screen goes blank.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

Disabled the TV's wifi ?
John T.

[Marilyn Manson]

There is no specific setting to disable the TV's WiFi. In the Network Settings window
you choose Wireless or Wired. If you choose Wireless, you see the standard list
of nearby WiFi networks. Choose a network and it asks for a password. If you
chose Wired, it just connects.

When I choose Wireless, it wants me to choose a network and when I choose mine,
it wants a password. That tells me that the TV is not connected to any WiFi network
at this time, just the wired network.

https://i.imgur.com/v6r8BUr.jpg

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

On Wed, 9 Jun 2021 18:04:48 -0700 (PDT), Marilyn Manson

My LG has " Soft App ON / OFF " which seems
to enable / disable _multiple_ wifi ..

... in case your neighbour's wifi or something
has interferred with your original start-up HDMI
source .. just a wild ass guess ..
John T.

[Marilyn Manson]

I don't see how WiFi is involved here. The TV+ app comes in
via a wired connection. There is no indication that WiFi is even
being used. As I posted before...

https://i.imgur.com/v6r8BUr.jpg

That screen appears during initial set-up and anytime that you
review the network settings.

I have tried the Reset Network option and re-chosen Wired to no avail.

I looked for a firmware update, but the TV says it's Up To Date.

In addition, I just did a factory reset and it didn't change anything,
except of course to remove any apps that I had added.

Still defaults to TV+ but doesn't really display the channel until the
channel is changed up or down. Same as before.

After the Factory Reset was done, the Start Setup utility suggests that
you connect all cables and power up all devices, which in my case is the
ethernet, HDMI1 for the cable box and HDMI2 for the Chromecast. The
setup utility recognizes all devices, but still defaults to TV+ (ethernet).
Swapping HDMI ports doesn't help. Connecting *only* the cable box
HDMI to either port doesn't help. It still defaults to TV+ but obviously can't
display anything (except the previous channel name/channel number)
because there is no network connection.

Unfortunately, there is never an option to set the default input device.
It defaulted to the cable box for years...until it didn't.

[Marilyn Manson]

This TV is FUBAR.

I powered it on and it defaulted to TV+ with the blank screen (the same problem
that I've been chasing)

I switched the source to the cable box and got the cable box picture but no sound.
I also saw the logo for TV+ and the name/number of the previous TV+ channel
superimposed on the cable box image. That should never happen. It was another
case of the TV being caught halfway between the HDMI input and the ethernet input.

Attempting to adjust the sound with the cable remote or the TV remote didn't help.
They are both normally capable of adjusting the TV's sound in any mode.

I then hit the channel up button on the TV remote, which should do nothing
since only the cable box remote should change the channel (on the cable box)
when in cable box mode. Instead, the TV switched to TV+, changed the channel
and turned the sound on. When I changed the source back to the cable box HDMI
input, the sound now worked as expected.

Time for a new TV.

[Dean Hoffman]

Tell yourself you wanted a new one anyhow.

Consumer Reports has these rated as Best Buys:


Samsung UN55RU7100 $430. 55". Rating 70
Samsung QN55Q60T $650. 55". Rating 71
Samsung UN55TU8300 $600. 55". Rating 71
Samsung QN55Q80T $1100. 55". Rating 83
Samsung QN55Q8DT $1100. 55". Rating 84
Samsung QN65Q70T $1100. 65". Rating 76
Sony XBR-65X90CH $1170. 65". Rating 74

They did mention that smart TVs track your viewing habits
and the apps you're using.
The article was updated 2/24/21

[Vic Smith]

I bought this on Amazon 3 months ago. TCL 50-inch Class 4-Series 4K UHD Smart Roku LED TV -
50S435, 2021 Model. Paid $298, but it's $348 today. I thought it would provide the
streaming advantages in case I ever decided to quit paying for cable TV.
Nice TV, but every time I turn it on I have to use the TV's remote and select the cable
input. So that's 2 remotes I have to use. Maybe there's a way to have it default but I
haven't found it. It's seems slow to change channels too but that may just be the cable
box switching to a HD channel which I haven't bothered to memorize.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

Just my 2 cents worth - the streaming option does not require
a "smart TV" - and, in my experience -
a smart TV is not the best option.
A laptop/desktop will do well - it can be an old re-furb -
and have you sitting at a familar interface - keyboard & mouse -
and have you selecting the privacy and upgrade options ..
John T.

[Arthur Conan Doyle]

Vic Smith <thismaila...@comcast.net> wrote:

>I bought this on Amazon 3 months ago. TCL 50-inch Class 4-Series 4K UHD Smart Roku LED TV -
>50S435, 2021 Model. Paid $298, but it's $348 today. I thought it would provide the
>streaming advantages in case I ever decided to quit paying for cable TV.
>Nice TV, but every time I turn it on I have to use the TV's remote and select the cable
>input.

My TCL/Roku TVs have a setting that keeps the last input source selection on
powerup.

https://www.businessinsider.com/how-to-change-input-on-roku-tv

--
Usenet: The world's first (and best) social network.

[Marilyn Manson]

Something other than a smart TV for streaming may be more of a
technical hurdle for some than for others.

Certain members of certain families have trouble taking full advantage
of certain systems even when they are set up for ease of use and are
working perfectly.

Toss in strange (and inconsistent) issues like I'm having and certain members
of certain families will just go read a book. Heck, this thing is confusing *me*
but I can at least - eventually - get it to do what I want it to do as long as I juggle
two remotes and press the right buttons in the right sequence while facing north,
holding a dehydrated bullfrog's foot and chanting Babylonian incantations.

If certain members of certain families get told that they now need to use a
laptop to watch TV, things will not go well for certain *other* members of
certain families, if you get my drift.

[Vic Smith]

Hey, thanks. Now I can use one remote only. Mea culpa. The TV's menu has a lot of
options and I hadn't gone through them.

[Marilyn Manson]

I solved the problem enough to not need a new TV.

In an earlier post I mentioned the secret Service Menu. In that OS level settings menu,
you can supposedly select Hotel Mode and then lock the input to a specific port. I had
2 issues with that solution:

1 - You need a specific Samsung remote in order to get into that menu. The remote that
came with my TV was missing one of the buttons required for the key sequence to get
into the Service Menu. $12 on Amazon for the proper remote resolved that issue.

2 - Once in the service Menu, I found that my TV did not have a Hotel Mode option. Shop
Mode, Asia Mode, sure. But Hotel Mode? Nope.

However, I did find a Factory Reset option within the Service menu. I had already done a
Factory Reset through the standard Settings menu that all users can access, but it didn't
really do much. OK, so if I brick the TV by using the Service Menu factory reset, so be it. I
was resigned to buying a new TV anyway.

Well, low and behold, that Factory Reset actually did a complete reset, all the way back to
having to choose a language and then hearing the gentle female voice say "Hi! Let's set up
your TV."

Once I went through all the steps, the TV began to turn on to the last used source. That
works for me. Even if turns back on in TV+ mode (ethernet) it is now fully in TV+ mode,
not stuck somewhere in limbo between TV+ and the cable box. Switching between sources
works smoothly and all of the "no sound" problems are gone.

Let's hope it lasts. I'm convinced that the power outage we had a couple of weeks ago
screwed something up.

[Kristi]

A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/samsung-smart-tv-no-longer-defaults-to-hdmi-input-3124286-.htm

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 07:01:18 +0000, Kristi
<396f026f0b6d8502...@example.com> wrote:

>A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times

Why not if that is all the PC is for, and it doesn't have to be a
laptop, any W/7 or above PC works, how is it easier?
Get a wireless work station (mouse and keyboard) and run it from your
Lazboy. The mouse does pretty much everything. You find there are lots
of things you can do easier from a PC than a Smart TV, assuming it is
that smart in the first place.
Browsing the web on a 60" is way better than that little monitor on
your desk to start with. You can play anything on your network, not
just what the smart TV understands.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 2:27:49 AM UTC-5, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 07:01:18 +0000, Kristi
> <396f026f0b6d8502...@example.com> wrote:
>
> >A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times
> Why not if that is all the PC is for, and it doesn't have to be a
> laptop, any W/7 or above PC works, how is it easier?
> Get a wireless work station (mouse and keyboard) and run it from your
> Lazboy. The mouse does pretty much everything. You find there are lots
> of things you can do easier from a PC than a Smart TV, assuming it is
> that smart in the first place.
> Browsing the web on a 60" is way better than that little monitor on
> your desk to start with.

You still have a tiny monitor? I've had 27" for about 7 years now. I couldn't
imagine using the TV screen for computer work.

You can play anything on your network, not
> just what the smart TV understands.

Typical Smart TV doesn't have ability to play any Mpegs, Avi, etc, ie the
common video standards?

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 06:17:28 -0800 (PST), trader_4
<tra...@optonline.net> wrote:

>On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 2:27:49 AM UTC-5, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 07:01:18 +0000, Kristi
>> <396f026f0b6d8502...@example.com> wrote:
>>
>> >A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times
>> Why not if that is all the PC is for, and it doesn't have to be a
>> laptop, any W/7 or above PC works, how is it easier?
>> Get a wireless work station (mouse and keyboard) and run it from your
>> Lazboy. The mouse does pretty much everything. You find there are lots
>> of things you can do easier from a PC than a Smart TV, assuming it is
>> that smart in the first place.
>> Browsing the web on a 60" is way better than that little monitor on
>> your desk to start with.
>
>You still have a tiny monitor? I've had 27" for about 7 years now. I couldn't
>imagine using the TV screen for computer work.
>

27" isn't 60" Size matters ;-)

>You can play anything on your network, not
>> just what the smart TV understands.
>
>Typical Smart TV doesn't have ability to play any Mpegs, Avi, etc, ie the
>common video standards?
>

You will find the photo viewer is primitive compared to something like
IRFANVIEW and the only way to get to movies is to load them into your
Windows Library if they are on your network. Browsing on a big screen
is pretty cumbersome if you compare that one letter at a time
selection screen using a remote to a real keyboard.
Same for searching in Prime or Netflix.
The music player is really bad if you are doing anything put playing
everything you have with little control.
I have had a PC connected to my TVs for well over 20 years so maybe it
is just what you get used to.
My "DVD player" was a 488mz P-II PC running W/98 for years.
It really got started as an MP3 player around 1998, just using the TV
as the monitor and using my sound system.
I still use that player DOS based MPXPLAY. It is the best MP3 player I
have ever seen. It runs fine in DOSBOX on 64 bit Windows.

[Marilyn Manson]

If all you are trying to do is avoid the "one letter at a time" PITA, you don't
need a PC. I know that you are talking about a lot more than that, so I'm
just tossing this out as a simple means to address that particular issue.

Wireless keyboards for Smart TV's, even ones with touchpads, are pretty
cheap these days. I use one for my Samsung. Not this one, but similar.

https://www.amazon.com/PONYBRO-Wireless-Keyboard-Raspberry-Notebooks/dp/B07VR5Y39T

[Marilyn Manson]

On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 9:17:31 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
> On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 2:27:49 AM UTC-5, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
> > On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 07:01:18 +0000, Kristi
> > <396f026f0b6d8502...@example.com> wrote:
> >
> > >A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times
> > Why not if that is all the PC is for, and it doesn't have to be a
> > laptop, any W/7 or above PC works, how is it easier?
> > Get a wireless work station (mouse and keyboard) and run it from your
> > Lazboy. The mouse does pretty much everything. You find there are lots
> > of things you can do easier from a PC than a Smart TV, assuming it is
> > that smart in the first place.
> > Browsing the web on a 60" is way better than that little monitor on
> > your desk to start with.
> You still have a tiny monitor? I've had 27" for about 7 years now. I couldn't
> imagine using the TV screen for computer work.

We have dual 24" monitors at work and I had a single 24" at home.

As soon as we started working remotely, I bought a second 24" monitor to replicate
my work environment.

When I log in remotely (via Citrix) I'm actually logged into my desktop at work which
in turn connects me to the corporate network. There's really no difference (other than
an extra login step) between working from home or working in the office. It's like I'm
sitting in front of my work PC.

Well, there is another difference. I'm much closer to the coffee maker at home. ;-)

[Jim Joyce]

Not only that, but voice control has also come a long way in recent
years. My wife uses her voice to control her phone, which in turn is
screencasted to the TV. I'm more old school, I use voice control with my
Roku devices, which of course are connected to the TVs.

[Jim Joyce]

On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 11:08:04 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 06:17:28 -0800 (PST), trader_4
><tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>>On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 2:27:49 AM UTC-5, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
>>> On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 07:01:18 +0000, Kristi
>>> <396f026f0b6d8502...@example.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >A smart tv is much easier to use than to have your laptop connected to the tv at all times
>>> Why not if that is all the PC is for, and it doesn't have to be a
>>> laptop, any W/7 or above PC works, how is it easier?
>>> Get a wireless work station (mouse and keyboard) and run it from your
>>> Lazboy. The mouse does pretty much everything. You find there are lots
>>> of things you can do easier from a PC than a Smart TV, assuming it is
>>> that smart in the first place.
>>> Browsing the web on a 60" is way better than that little monitor on
>>> your desk to start with.
>>
>>You still have a tiny monitor? I've had 27" for about 7 years now. I couldn't
>>imagine using the TV screen for computer work.
>>
>
>27" isn't 60" Size matters ;-)

27" at 18" viewing distance might well be perceived as a larger image
than 60" at a much greater viewing distance, not to mention the crazy
fad at the moment of hanging a TV above a fireplace. That's about the
worst possible location since a) it's directly above a fireplace, (WTH
are they thinking?), and b) it's way too high for comfortable viewing.

[Marilyn Manson]

I have one not-so-smart Samsung TV that uses a Firestick. The FS remote allows for voice control.

They recently upgraded the OS on the stick and everything appears to be much more efficient now.
Voice commands work great. "Open How it's Made on Discovery Plus"

Now the FS Home page more closely resembles the standard Samsung Smart TV "source" page
used for choosing Netflix, Discovery+, Prime Video, etc. It makes for an easier transition when
going back and forth between the Smart TV's and the not-so-smart one.

[gfre...@aol.com]

I was doing that in 1990 with a piece of software called FARLINK, that
ran on my desk at work, coax connected to the VM system and modem
connected to my machine at home. As far as IBM knew I was sitting at
my desk.

[Marilyn Manson]

Try doing that today. My office desktop is so locked down that we can't even use
a USB drive or any external device. Even a dedicated printer would require God-level
approval. Scanners? Fugget about it!

When I remote in, it's almost like "terminal access". e.g. the clipboard on my home
PC doesn't talk to the clipboard on my work PC - no copy/paste between environments.
No swapping files, etc.

The only connection between the 2 environments is that they allow - with approval - limited
use of our home printers while remoting in, with the understanding that we are not printing
any client or business confidential material at home. They can track that, so I don't do it.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:11:48 -0800 (PST), Marilyn Manson

I managed my desktop. I even built it myself. IBM didn't even
acknowledge I had a PC, there was no budget for them. They assumed I
was using a 3279 terminal.
This was my first office PC (a 339 AT board from a super market
controller).

[Marilyn Manson]

That why I say "Try doing that today". No way you're "fooling" their system and getting in
without an approved device.

I have no idea how many 3278 terminals I installed/repaired and then eventually replaced with
IBM-PC's. Hundreds upon hundreds while working for a Fortune 50 (yes, fifty) company back in
the 80's and 90's. The 3278's were used by everyone from the research lab scientists to the
mechanics in the power plant.

I still remember lifting them suckers out of the big foam filled cardboard box. Most times it was
2 man lift to get them out of the box, but sometimes we were stuck on our own. That's when the
box cutter came out unless the "customer" volunteered to help.

The most laughable part was when the suits on Mahogany Row found out that the scientists were
getting their 3278's replaced with IBM-PC's. Well, that just wasn't right, so they ordered IBM-PC's for
themselves. During the install we'd add a 3278 emulator card and they'd use the PC as a glorified
mainframe terminal. Nothing else. We we're tossing out perfectly good 3278 terminals like old
newspapers because management wanted "computers" on their desks.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:48:51 -0800 (PST), Marilyn Manson

I understand that and if I lived within 150 miles of management they
would have screwed with me I'm sure. Nobody really knew what we were
doing and as long as we were giving them good numbers they didn't
care. We were doing all sorts of IBM illegal things, that FARLINK
server being one of them. It was invisible on the other end of the
coax. I even got a few PROFs notes asking me why I was in the office
at 2200. I had to be there, I was typing on the 3279 on my desk ;-)

I did give an IBM VP (Ed Lucente IBM Far East) a FARLINK login for our
office. He didn't have a clue what it was but he used it. My FARLINK
ran a lot faster than HPO on the 9600 modem we gave him. IBM HPO was
still running 2400. He was on Captiva for a week and then we never saw
him again. I deleted the login after he left.