This winter I've been having some problems with this snow blower.
It's about 10 years old. Have never done any service on it. Did
check the spark plug this summer but it looked good so I didn't
replace it.
It starts fine. The problem is loss of power. It just doesn't have
the power to work correctly.
Got a new batch of 93 octane gas tonight thinking maybe it was bad.
Problem persists. I also replaced the spark plug about two weeks ago.
I'm wondering if it needs a top end repair. Just had a top end repair
on my Honda CR250 moto cross bike this summer.
Do 2 stroke Toro snow blowers need top end repairs after 10 years of
usage?
I'm kinda betting on it.
I did try running it without the gas cap thinking of air blockage.
In the past this thing works great. Goes through anything.
Any input? And if it does need to be repaired any guess on the cost?
Thanks
Did it fail suddenly, or has it been getting weaker gradually. If
suddenly, maybe a sticking valve,
Speaking of air, have you checked the air cleaner? Maybe try it
for a couple minutes without the air cleaner to see what happens.
You might also try running some carburetor cleaner through it.
By any RARE chance did it begin after adding gas that was never used in
it before? Maybe gas that was E85? May not even be available in your
state.
Not sure how current or accurate this is.
Clean exhaust,Tighten head, base and case bolts, Clean carb by
disassembly (not carb cleaner spray or additive), replace fuel line
and make sure tank is clean. Since it starts right up, it probably
isn't a compression issue, so teh top end is probably ok.
Hank
Personally I go straight from 'try a spray carb cleaner and run a tank
of treated gas' to "Replace the Carb". http://jackssmallengines.com/
probably has a carb for $50 or so - You can futz for days and end up
buying a carb anyway-- just buy it first and read a book for 2 days
while it is en route.
Jim
When you say no power what happens, it it running full rpm 3600? Does
the carb power circuit not keep it ful rpm under load? As a carb gets
varnished up it can be necessary to adjust the air mix. A weak , going
bad electronic ignition module will make it not have full power and
thats comon. A compression test will tell you what life is left
before wasting alot of time. 10 years if alot of snow was done is
alot.
Mines a lot older...no issues. See if you have a fuel filter between
the tank and carb...mine does and I replace it every 5 years or so.
And make sure the drive belt isn't slipping. You can adjust the
tensioner, but after 10 years probably ready for a new belt anyway.
HTH,
Paul F.
A lot of people are replying with "check carb". This is a 2 stroke,
there is no carb. There is a reed valve I suspect.
Yes I can see maybe cleaning the exhaust filter, didn't think of
that. It's interesting the same poster mentioned tightening head
bolts. I have seen some oil/water spillage after it is put away and
snow melt in the garage.
Will also check if there is a fuel filter, I didn't see one when I
pulled the skins off this last summer. Also didn't see any kind of
air filter believe it or not.
Will take a look at things again this weekend when I have some time
off. You know things always seem to break when you need them.
Chicago is getting dumped on at the moment.
This snow blower is a real work horse and I want to keep it. Wasn't
sure about the rebuild frequency for 2 stroke small engines.
Little more info about the symptoms. It starts right up. It doesn't
seem to go to full RPM. When you try to blow snow it just bogs down.
It doesn't sound like an ignition problem.
Thanks gang...
Did you put 2 stroke oil in the gas? If not, you burned it up.
There is no carb, thats a joke , right. If you think that you dont
have a clue and wont be able to diagnose anything. So , check
carburator to see if choke releases and adjust needle valves to get it
to run 3600 rpm, start by turning the high speed needle valve in to
see if rpm increases, then adjust it slowly.
-snip-
>A lot of people are replying with "check carb". This is a 2 stroke,
>there is no carb. There is a reed valve I suspect.
Got a model number on the snowblower?
My Toro 38170 is 2 stroke and took a 640086A carb a few years ago when
it did just what yours is doing. It recovered when I put a new carb
on. There are no visible adjustments on the card-- but there is a
needle valve, seat and some ball valves under some Welch plugs, if I
remember right. [I tried to rebuild 2 carbs that winter-- then I saw
how cheap a new one was & tossed them.]
Jim
The Toro site has exploded parts diagrams for all the models. I think
you have to get to the parts section..takes a little hunting around.
If you end up needing parts, Sohar RCPW online (www.rcpw.com ) stocks
tons of parts. They had the gas tank for my 20+ year old toro in
stock.
Try replace the spark plug anyway. Any brand except
Champion, they had some quality problems. Most likely a carb
problem, they clog easily and run lean. My snow blower, I
was forced to install a fuel filter, the tank was full of
specks of black stuff floating around.
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"Dean Hoffman" <dh0496@in#&ebr^as^#ka.com> wrote in message
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"Red Green" <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
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"Paul Franklin" <pffra...@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in
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No such device as "exhaust filter".
"When you try to blow snow, it bogs down" could easily be
ignition problem.
Have a nice day!
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"Brent Bolin" <brent...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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I'd start by replacing the fuel filter, or install one if it
doesn't yet have one. Dissemble, and clean the carb. Paying
attention to the metering jet.
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"Brent Bolin" <brent...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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> Hello All,
>
> This winter I've been having some problems with this snow blower.
> It's about 10 years old. Have never done any service on it. Did
> check the spark plug this summer but it looked good so I didn't
> replace it.
Go digging for the engine manual online (google suggests it's a CCR 2450,
not CRC as per subject) - there's probably a troublshooting section and
routine maintenance section in it.
It's probably due a fuel filter replacement if it has one. But it might
need other things after ten years, too (the B+S engine in my mower needs
head bolt torque checking after every 100 hours, for instance, and there
are various carb adjustments to check)
cheers
Jules
> I've heard terrible things about the new ethanol blend. In
> my vehicles, it gets lower mileage. Might also under power
> your snow blower. E-85 is useless, except for cars totally
> designed for E-85.
>
Reason it popped into my mind was someone up north recently had starting
issues (vs OP's running issues). It was a Toro 2 cycle. First thing guy at
Toro asked was if by any chance E85 got into it.
Sorry. Don't pretend to be an expert on engine repair.
After looking at some of the PDF documents for this model it does have
exactly what you say "a carb".
I don't think it's a carb problem, but could be. I'm inclined to
believe it's a fuel filter problem. The PDF documents also show
this. Most likely I didn't see this when I pulled the skins.
As far as the exhust cleaning I was thinking baffles. I don't think
it has baffles. And I don't think there is an air filter.
A quick replacement of the fuel filter(56-6360) should tell me
something. This is a Toro part number.
Do you think a generic part from HD or local hardware store could be
used. Ordering just this part will cost more in shipping then the
part.
Thanks
Probably. We've got a good farm supply place in town though and they're
very good at stocking parts for all kinds of different small engines, so
if you have somewhere like that they might have exactly the right
bit on the shelf.
cheers
Jules
CY: When I got mine that "runs fine" the carb clogged. I
dissembled the carb, and it ran for another ten minutes.
Finally I put in a fuel filter, which did the trick.
I don't think it's a carb problem, but could be. I'm
inclined to
believe it's a fuel filter problem. The PDF documents also
show
this. Most likely I didn't see this when I pulled the
skins.
CY: Might have a filter. If not, I was able to cut out some
fuel line, and put in a universal small engine filter.
As far as the exhust cleaning I was thinking baffles. I
don't think
it has baffles. And I don't think there is an air filter.
CY: Mine has a muffler of some kind, and no air filter.
A quick replacement of the fuel filter(56-6360) should tell
me
something. This is a Toro part number.
Do you think a generic part from HD or local hardware store
could be
used. Ordering just this part will cost more in shipping
then the
part.
CY: I'd measure the ID of the fuel line, and the diameter of
the fuel filter you find at the hardware. It is very much
likely to work fine.
I've replaced mine several times. There's nothing special about it.
IIRC, it's 1/4" fuel lines from tank to filter and filter to carb
inlet. I'll bet any small engine inline filter with the right size
fittings would work fine.
Paul F.
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"Paul Franklin" <pffra...@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in
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My old toro has no visable filter, An inline filter before the carb is
best and are sold anywhere for about 1$, if the Toro filter is built
in junk it and go inline before the carb, first try adjusting the air
fuel mix from the needle valve on the carb, this is what has gone
out on 2 of the Toro paddle wheel blowers of mine, if you have one
screw, try leaning it first, a 1/4 turn in. If no improvement go out
to richen it 1/4 turn and be sure the choke pulls open. If you have 2
screws one is idle and one high speed air mix. It could be many things
but start simple. At 10 years a 10$ compression tester is what I would
do first before spending 30-50$ on a carb. Carbon can buildup at the
exhaust port on the head, Ive never cleaned one but in manuals its
recomended if you loose power, use a wood stick when cleaning at the
head. The reed valve I think is in the cilinder head or cilinder, its
not the carburator. The carb has a float and bowl so it should rev for
awhile even with a bad filter, so id guess its the air mixure, it is
to rich and turning in the high speed screw leans it. A weak ignition
module can also make it run poor
Does Honda make fuel injected 2 stroke snow blowers?
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"Tony" <tony....@gmail.com>
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