Cutting 6 X 6 beams ?? What Saw ??
James Nipper
I am building outside steps (large quantities) , using pressure treated 6
X 6 beams.
Chainsaw cutting leaves ragged edges, and I want to find a saw that can do
the job precisely. I stongly prefer some type of miter saw.
I was told that it would take a 16 inch saw to cut these beams, given the
size of the blade, and of course the mechanics of the saw itself.
I am told that they make a 16 inch miter saw, and I would need one that
size to make a full , one-time cut of a 6 X 6 beam.
I have researched on the net, but cannot find one that size. The largest
that I have seen is a 15 inch, but I don't think that it would be quite
big enough .
Any ideas please ??
--James--
Steven Bliss
maneuvering them around on it. Use of a good hand saw (preceded by a bowl
of Wheaties) will cut them every time.
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
James Nipper
--James--
Lyle B. Harwood
<jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote:
€ I am building outside steps (large quantities) , using pressure treated 6
I wouldn't use a miter saw. It's easier to cut 6x6 with a standard
skillsaw.
Square around, cut around, finish the last inch with a handsaw.
Fast, economical, easy.
The only change I would make if I were inclined would be to go to an 8"
skillsaw, but even that is something I would think twice about. On top
of the additional expense, they're heavier than standard saws, and you
specified a large quantity.
For a large quantity, labor is the significant factor, and it's much,
much easier to move a standard skillsaw than either an 8" saw or the
beams themselves.
You'll get real tired real fast setting beams up onto a chop saw.
Best of luck, and let us know how it comes out!
--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
(206) 523-9500 www.phoenixhomesinc.com
NoOne N Particular
blade. Don't remember the manufacturer. Big sucker anyway. Even it it was
"just" 14" it seems like it could single cut a 6x6.
Wayne
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
>
>
Phisherman
I would build a jig made from scrap 3/4" ply that fits around the 6x6,
then use a circular saw to cut it from all four sides. Secure the jig
onto the post with a screw so it won't move when you turn the post.
Or, you could rig up a 12" miter saw to do the job by fastening the
miter saw to a long plank with supports, setting a stop, then cutting
on all four sides. Once you have made the jig or set up a miter saw
stop, the cutting process becomes easy production work. With PT wood,
do all the cutting outdoors and wear a well-fitting dust mask.
Tony Hwang
> A good handsaw would wear me out after cutting 150 of them a day.
>
>
> --James--
>
Hi,
Reciprocating power saw? Rent one.
Tony
Edwin Pawlowski
"James Nipper" <> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
>
>
> I am building outside steps (large quantities) , using pressure treated
6
> X 6 beams.
>
> I am told that they make a 16 inch miter saw, and I would need one that
> size to make a full , one-time cut of a 6 X 6 beam.
>
> I have researched on the net, but cannot find one that size. The largest
> that I have seen is a 15 inch, but I don't think that it would be quite
> big enough .
>
> Any ideas please ??
www.deltamachinery.com They make an 18" radial arm saw that will do the
job. I've seen a few others that will work, but the name of the manufacturer
escapes me right now.
www.grizzly.com They have a jump saw that will do the job for $5000. Needs
3 phase power.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0549
Bruce
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote:
>A good handsaw would wear me out after cutting 150 of them a day.
Portable bandsaw like this:
http://www.csunitec.com/saws/band.html
Get a blade with a lot of teeth.
Phil Scott
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
>
>
Makita makes a 16" 'beam' saw. Its a hand held circular
saw. you can get them on Ebay for 250 dollars or so used.
You would have to adapt that to a frame to make a chop saw out
of it. I make a 12" skill saw for myself from a porter cable
7.25" circular saw...I sawed the blade guard off, top and
bottom and fabricated a larger one of aluminum plate..so I
could fit the 12" blade. it comes in handy.
You might have to do something like that with say a 12" meter
saw, inspect it for clearances modify it to accept the 16"
blade. getting compatible arbors would be a key issue.
Phil Scott
>
>
> --James--
>
Phil Scott
> A good handsaw would wear me out after cutting 150 of them a
day.
I think the makita 16" beam saw use with a cutting square,
wouldnt be too much of a hassle, no hauling the timber up to a
chop saw that way, just measure, lay yer square on it and run
the saw.
I cut some 6x4's that way recently...no problem. Beware the
dust from the chem treated wood in your lungs and on your
hands though.
Phil Scott
>
>
> --James--
>
Phil Scott
"Tony Hwang" <drag...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:PJNAc.802619$oR5.96438@pd7tw3no...
its real hard to get a dead nuts clean square cut with one
of those..
Phil Scott
>
v
>Chainsaw cutting leaves ragged edges, and I want to find a saw that can do
>the job precisely. I stongly prefer some type of miter saw.
>
Being that these are a large qty of outdoor steps, how neat & precise
do they have to be? Practice more with the chainsaw, and finish off
with your belt sander.
-v.
v
>My local BigB lumberteria has a circular saw that looks like it has a 16"
>blade. Don't remember the manufacturer. Big sucker anyway. Even it it was
>"just" 14" it seems like it could single cut a 6x6.
>
>Wayne
>
"looks like" aint good enough. Is it or isn't it? A 14" blade, half
of that is 7", so you'd need to be able to have mechanical clearance
distance of 1.25" or less, to have the 5.75" blade protrusion to cut
the nominal 6x6's. A typical 7-1/4" saw uses up that much distance, I
don't think its necessarily a gimme that the 14" would do it.
Specificsa re needed here.
-v.
Pop Rivet
sawzall with a hefty blade, and practice up on your
persistance and patience. Stop in at a lumber yard where
contractors go, and ask there. 6 x 6 isn't THAT big, after
all. Heck, some circular saws will cut more than 3" deep;
all it takes is two cuts and some patience!
Do NOT get anythning supersized to cut a mere 6' x 6'
beam!
Pop
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
Jim
Use a power saw and cut on 2 sides to complete the cut. Or perhaps a
lumber yard can do your cuts ???
indago
Here's a Sawzall page...
Edwin Pawlowski
"Pop Rivet" <nob...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
> 6 x 6 isn't THAT big, after
> all. Heck, some circular saws will cut more than 3" deep;
> all it takes is two cuts and some patience!
> Do NOT get anythning supersized to cut a mere 6' x 6'
> beam!
> Pop
He's not cutting "a" beam, he's cutting 150 a day. If the numbers are a
daily thing I'd rather make 750 cuts in a week than 1500 cuts using your
method. Time = money and that big saw gets paid off real fast.
Ed
NoOne N Particular
Wayne
"v" <vze8...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:40d4908c...@news.verizon.net...
Lawrence Wasserman
cutting all around the circumference with a regular circular saw to
establish the cut line, then cutting through the center with a hand
saw or a reciprocating saw?
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
lwas...@charm.net
louis
<jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote:
Cut 2 sides with regular skill saw being garefull to use framing
square for square th cut center with sawsall with rough tember
blade==nolifting and wrewstling just turn with pool lever.
Stan
D0N Явiley
1. Rent a 16" circular saw. Our HD rents one. You still have
to eat your wheaties because this thing is a monster.
2. Use a 7-1/4" circular saw and then a recip. saw to finish
the cut.
db
"James Nipper" <jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote in message
news:y9CdnQe3uK5...@comcast.com...
>
>
Stormin Mormon
beam to your left, and run the smooth side of the saw along
the end of the jig.
Have a helper with a Shopvac, holding it where the dust
comes out, helps cut down on dust in the air.
Cutting more slowly gives a neater cut.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Phisherman" <nob...@noone.com> wrote in message
news:fa87d05lsnu51f5td...@4ax.com...
I would build a jig made from scrap 3/4" ply that fits
around the 6x6,
then use a circular saw to cut it from all four sides.
Secure the jig
onto the post with a screw so it won't move when you turn
the post.
Alan Sung
Why not try a hand held, portable band saw? Something like
http://www.csunitec.com/saws/band.html
-al sung
Rapid Realm Technology, Inc.
Hopkinton, MA
KLM
<jni...@nospam.fdn.com> wrote:
>
>
>I am building outside steps (large quantities) , using pressure treated 6
>X 6 beams.
>
>Chainsaw cutting leaves ragged edges, and I want to find a saw that can do
>the job precisely. I stongly prefer some type of miter saw.
>
I was at the Olds Agricultural College in Alberta some years ago and
admired their home made chain saw jig which was used to cut logs into
half inch thick slices. These log slices are the stuff you would see
made into the base for handicrafts for hanging onto the wall.
The chain saw was bolted-mounted onto a welded steel frame that could
be lowered like a miter saw onto the work piece (aka the logs.) Thus
it was pivoted on one end and had an extended pipe handle for lowering
the chain saw. Their chain saw was electric and therefore it was just
a matter of switching it on for a job batch. The dead-man's switch
was a built-in safety feature.
It could cut the log squarely with consistency and accuracy. One could
control the cut rate and therefore the finish by lowering the saw
slowly depending on the wood type. As I recall the cut log slices
were pretty well finished and could be used as-is to give the rustic
look. They would have been easy enough to sand smooth if so required.
Of course, by adjusting the workpiece stop slabs of different
thicknesses could be produced. The log itself was cradled on a X
frame and was therefore self centering and the log held firmer with
increased saw pressure. I remember the X frame could be rotated
horizontally to provide a diagonal cut if so desired.
Bradford Drummond
Jim Joyce
appropriate than a 16" miter saw. Here's an (expensive) example to
illustrate the concept:
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-5402NA-16-5-16-Inch-Circular/dp/B0000614UR
Looks and works a lot like a standard circular saw, but comes with a 16"
blade.
micky
they want to do this. They already have big equipment and they are set
up, so what you "waste" in paying someone else might be more than made
up by how much less time it takes and not having to buy tools.
I wanted semi-round fence rails like my fence is made with. They used
to sell them even at HDepot, but I coudln't find them anywhere. I
bought 8' 4" posts at one farm store and took them to a sawmill where he
quickly split them down the middle. I could not have done such a good
job and he wasn't very expensive.
(I was able to put about 7 posts in the back seat of my car, and they
cut them into 14 pieces in about a half hours.)