Cutting PVC With a Circular Saw?

[SMS]

I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.

Reading various articles I have seen recommendations for using a
circular miter saw plywood blade with a high tooth count. I tried to buy
such a blade yesterday but I only have a 12" miter saw and these blades
(100 teeth or more) are very expensive and are not sold at big box
hardware stores. Also I'd like something a little more portable than my
12" miter saw (mounted to a saw table) since I need to do some of this
cutting away from my house.

So I'm thinking about using this:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/08-hp-6-cut-off-saw-69438.html>. I can try
to use the 6" cut-off blades sold by Harbor Freight, but Sears has a 5
1/2" circular saw blade with the proper size arbor (5/8")
<http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-1-2-in-steel-blade-for-portable/p-00932261000P>.
Apparently this is an unusual blade since almost all 5 1/2" circular
saws and blades have a 3/8" arbor.

Has anyone cut PVC using a cutoff blade? Should I just get the saw blade?

Any other suggestions for cutting a lot of larger diameter PVC and doing
it cleanly with a flat end?

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Dec 31, 9:13 am, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:
> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
> coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.
>
> Reading various articles I have seen recommendations for using a
> circular miter saw plywood blade with a high tooth count. I tried to buy
> such a blade yesterday but I only have a 12" miter saw and these blades
> (100 teeth or more) are very expensive and are not sold at big box
> hardware stores. Also I'd like something a little more portable than my
> 12" miter saw (mounted to a saw table) since I need to do some of this
> cutting away from my house.
>
> So I'm thinking about using this:
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/08-hp-6-cut-off-saw-69438.html>. I can try
> to use the 6" cut-off blades sold by Harbor Freight, but Sears has a 5
> 1/2" circular saw blade with the proper size arbor (5/8")

> <http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-1-2-in-steel-blade-for-portable/p-00...>.

> Apparently this is an unusual blade since almost all 5 1/2" circular
> saws and blades have a 3/8" arbor.
>
> Has anyone cut PVC using a cutoff blade? Should I just get the saw blade?
>
> Any other suggestions for cutting a lot of larger diameter PVC and doing
> it cleanly with a flat end?

I've used the jaw type cutters for PVC and never had a
problem with the ends not being even. They always come
out near perfect, in my experience. It's my preferred
method because it's fast and accurate. Certainly more than
adequate for pool work and also excellent for the type of
repair you're doing where some of the pipes are already
in tight spots. You can't get a circular say in there.

You can also cut them straighter with a saw by putting a
stainless steel hose clamp on the pipe first and using that as a
guide. Or make your own mitre box out of wood that will
hold the pipe for a hand saw cut. I'd say use an existing one,
but the ones I have seen are not deep enough to fit the
pipe. But you could make one from some 2 x4's easily.

And in any case, the ends don't have to be perfect.
Those 2" PVC fittings are plenty deep.

[mike]

There was an infomercial for a saw like this.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-double-cut-saw-68316-8065.html
One of their demos was cutting plastic pipe. Cut like butter.
And we all trust infomercials...right???
Might need one with a larger blade for 2" pipe.

I haven't cut a lot of plastic pipe, but it's hard to imagine
screwing it up badly enough that it wouldn't seal in a coupler???

[Stormin Mormon]

When I did more heating and AC, the boss and I cut a lot of PVC piping with
such a saw. Mostly we cut 2 inch and 3 inch pipe. Worked very nicely. I
don't think he had any special saw blade. Cut slowly, and expect to have to
scrape some burrs off. Should work fine. PVC is rather soft. I'd buy the HF
saw with the standard blades, so you can get more blades later.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"SMS" <scharf...@geemail.com> wrote in message
news:50e19da7$0$80102$742e...@news.sonic.net...

[Gordon Shumway]

On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 06:13:40 -0800, SMS <scharf...@geemail.com>
wrote:

I have used the stock blade that came in my miter saw to cut PVC. It
works just fine for that material. Don't waste your money on a
dedicated blade for PVC unless you make your living cutting PVC.

[DerbyDad03]

On Dec 31, 9:13 am, SMS <scharf.ste...@geemail.com> wrote:

> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
> coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.
>
> Reading various articles I have seen recommendations for using a
> circular miter saw plywood blade with a high tooth count. I tried to buy
> such a blade yesterday but I only have a 12" miter saw and these blades
> (100 teeth or more) are very expensive and are not sold at big box
> hardware stores. Also I'd like something a little more portable than my
> 12" miter saw (mounted to a saw table) since I need to do some of this
> cutting away from my house.
>
> So I'm thinking about using this:
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/08-hp-6-cut-off-saw-69438.html>. I can try
> to use the 6" cut-off blades sold by Harbor Freight, but Sears has a 5
> 1/2" circular saw blade with the proper size arbor (5/8")

> <http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-1-2-in-steel-blade-for-portable/p-00...>.

> Apparently this is an unusual blade since almost all 5 1/2" circular
> saws and blades have a 3/8" arbor.
>
> Has anyone cut PVC using a cutoff blade? Should I just get the saw blade?
>
> Any other suggestions for cutting a lot of larger diameter PVC and doing
> it cleanly with a flat end?

I've cut PVC pipe on my Delta 10" miter saw hundreds of times. The
more teeth the better for a smoother cut.

If you need to buy a saw, buy a miter saw that you can use for all
sorts of projects as opposed to a dedicated cut off saw.

I once made flag holders for a parade float by cutting 2" PVC into 3"
sections and then drilling holes through them so they could be mounted
to the side of a open trailer with wooden sides. The holes allowed us
the screw them to the trailer at an angle and then slip the flag poles
down through the open ends. I made a something like 40 pieces. There
was lots of PVC dust all over the shop.

[Tim Watts]

I have done uPVC with a TCT blade. It looks like it should not work (the
teeth are *huge* but it does.

There are finer TCT blades than mine too.

It's not a smooth cut[1] but it is square, accurate (I could get it to 1/16"
accuracy) and it does not chip or damage the piece (these were extruded uPVC
cills for 4 new windows I fitted to my loft conversion stud walls a few
weeks ago).

[1] A quick run round with a Stanley knife or a file to debur and they would
be good enough for plumbing.

I used to do 2" pipes by wrapping paper round tightly to get a true
curcumference, drawing a line then an ordinary hand hacksaw. Now I have my
power saw, I would use that.


Have you considered a bigger saw and possibly a sliding mitre combi unit -
will do what you want but are also excellent for cutting framing,
floorboards and lots of other projects?


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://www.dionic.net/tim/

"A fanatic is one who can't change his mind and won't change the subject."

[Bob F]

Just try whatever blade you already have in your miter saw. It'll probably work
fine.

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Dec 31, 10:21 am, "Bob F" <bobnos...@gmail.com> wrote:
> SMS wrote:
> > I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> > with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> > cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> > pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
> > coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.
>
> > Reading various articles I have seen recommendations for using a
> > circular miter saw plywood blade with a high tooth count. I tried to
> > buy such a blade yesterday but I only have a 12" miter saw and these
> > blades (100 teeth or more) are very expensive and are not sold at big
> > box hardware stores. Also I'd like something a little more portable
> > than my 12" miter saw (mounted to a saw table) since I need to do
> > some of this cutting away from my house.
>
> > So I'm thinking about using this:
> > <http://www.harborfreight.com/08-hp-6-cut-off-saw-69438.html>. I can
> > try to use the 6" cut-off blades sold by Harbor Freight, but Sears
> > has a 5 1/2" circular saw blade with the proper size arbor (5/8")

> > <http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-1-2-in-steel-blade-for-portable/p-00...>.

> > Apparently this is an unusual blade since almost all 5 1/2" circular
> > saws and blades have a 3/8" arbor.
>
> > Has anyone cut PVC using a cutoff blade? Should I just get the saw
> > blade?
> > Any other suggestions for cutting a lot of larger diameter PVC and
> > doing it cleanly with a flat end?
>
> Just try whatever blade you already have in your miter saw. It'll probably work

> fine.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The trick is to cut slowly.

[sms]

I need something fairly portable as I am helping some other people put
in pumps as well. I think I will try the 6" saw from HF. It's only $32
after 20% off. I got the blade from Sears just in case the cut-off wheel
isn't suitable for PVC.

[TomR]

SMS wrote:
> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or

> coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved. . . . ,

Wouldn't a simple and cheap miter box and saw like this work for cutting
2-inch PVC:

http://www.harborfreight.com/miter-box-with-saw-66562.html ?

It's definitely portable and all you would be doing is straight cut-offs.

[Tim Watts]

This too - and the blade in this will give a very fine cut on PVC whilst
still being fairly quick to cut through:

http://www.wholesaletoolwarehouse.com/woodwork/mitre-saws/sw05-precision-
mitre-saw

[tra...@optonline.net]

I doubt it's deep enough for a 2" pipe. Keep in mind it's
2" ID, more like 2 3/8 outside. Which is why I suggested
just making a simple deeper mitre box out of wood.

But I still don't understand the fuss. I've done quite a bit of
pipe fitting and never used anything other than either a PVC pipe
blade type cutter, which I found to make perfectly straight cuts, or a
hacksaw.

[Dean Hoffman]

On 12/31/12 8:13 AM, SMS wrote:
> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
> coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.
>

One of these http://tinyurl.com/b33xcgm might be handy if you have
to cut a pipe in a tight spot.
I've cut PVC with just a cut off saw blade for cutting metal. It
looks like others have as well.

[Bob F]

My PVC blade cutter definately does not regularly cut straight across. Almost
always a small angle.

[nestork]

I cut 1 1/2 inch ABS pipe with a miter saw all the time, and I get good
cuts.

I just have a 40 tooth 10 inch blade with tungsten carbide teeth, and I
get good cuts.

After cutting, I sand down the sharp outside edge of the pipe with a
sanding screen for sanding joint compound, and cut off the sharp inside
edge of the pipe with a small razor knife.




--
nestork

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Dec 31, 8:02 pm, "Bob F" <bobnos...@gmail.com> wrote:

> always a small angle.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Then maybe it's time for a new one. And even if there is
a small angle, it might be an issue if you're using it for
making art work or a table, but not for plumbing. Not in my
world.

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Dec 31, 6:43 pm, Dean Hoffman <""dh0496\"@win*&dstr$%eam.net">
wrote:

> On 12/31/12 8:13 AM, SMS wrote:
>
> > I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> > with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need the
> > cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a pool
> > pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into place or
> > coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved.
>

>      One of thesehttp://tinyurl.com/b33xcgmmight be handy if you have

> to cut a pipe in a tight spot.

Yeah, that should work real well for giving him the
precisison cuts he thinks he needs.

[Art Todesco]

I second that. I've always just used the blade that is on the saw, a
carbide tipped combination (rip/crosscut) blade, mostly on my table saw.
It works very well and the cut comes out very accurate and smooth.

[HerHusband]

> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat.

> Reading various articles I have seen recommendations for using a
> circular miter saw plywood blade with a high tooth count.

> I'd like something a little more portable than my 12" miter saw

I used my old 10" Delta miter saw (with a regular 40 tooth crosscut blade),
to cut PVC pipe up to 4". As long as you make the cut slowly and don't try
to rush it, it makes a nice smooth cut. It's kind of messy, but it works
well.

Of course, the power miter saw isn't very useful when you're crawling
around in a crawlspace under a house (dragging tools and supplies along
with you). For me, a sharp handsaw works nearly as well. I make the cut,
deburr it with a utility knife, and it's good to go. With a little
practice, you can make almost perfect 90 degree cuts without a miter saw.

Of course, you could always make or buy a manual miter box to ensure
perfect 90 degree cuts if you feel so inclined.

For smaller diameter pipe up to 1", I use a ratcheting cutter. It's quicker
than sawing and produces a perfect cut every time. The only time I have to
fall back to a saw for small pipe is when I need to cut a short piece. The
cutter tends to deform the pipe if it's too close to the end.

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountain-software.com/about.htm

[Ashton Crusher]

A lot of people will probably say I'm crazy but when I had to replace
part of my pool pump one of my concerns was that there wasn't much
pipe to work with and when I got done there would not be enough pipe
to ever redo it again without digging pipe out of the ground and
starting over. So I got 2" compression couplings from Lowe's and
instead of cementing the pipes back together I just reconnected the
cut ends with the compression fittings. that was about 5 years ago
and I've had to take it apart once in that time for more pump work.
It's worked out very well. Did similar when replacing a main and aux
valve.

On Mon, 31 Dec 2012 06:13:40 -0800, SMS <scharf...@geemail.com>
wrote:

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Jan 1, 4:13 pm, Ashton Crusher <d...@moore.net> wrote:
> A lot of people will probably say I'm crazy but when I had to replace
> part of my pool pump one of my concerns was that there wasn't much
> pipe to work with and when I got done there would not be enough pipe
> to ever redo it again without digging pipe out of the ground and
> starting over.

Count me in the ones that say you're crazy. Let's say there
is 6" of pipe above grade. Cut it off, put on a coupling. If that
fails in 10 years, cut it off, and repeat. I could do that
for 40 years or so and still be above grade. And then, with a
shovel and removing a few inches of soil, the process
continues. Does your pool plumbing fail twice a year?

 So I got 2" compression couplings from Lowe's and
> instead of cementing the pipes back together I just reconnected the
> cut ends with the compression fittings.  that was about 5 years ago
> and I've had to take it apart once in that time for more pump work.

Replacing a pump should never require cutting pipes.
If it was installed correctly, there would be UNIONS or
other means of disconnect at the pump.

[TomR]

tra...@optonline.net wrote:
> On Dec 31, 3:41 pm, "TomR" <T...@tomrljp5.lhd> wrote:
>> SMS wrote:
>>> I have a lot of 2" PVC to cut. Using the big PVC manual cutting tool
>>> with a blade is a lot of work and the cuts are never flat. I need
>>> the cuts to be pretty precise because the pipes are for replacing a
>>> pool pump and the existing pool equipment and pipes are fixed into
>>> place or coming up out of a concrete base, and can't be moved. . .
>>> . ,
>>
>> Wouldn't a simple and cheap miter box and saw like this work for
>> cutting 2-inch PVC:
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/miter-box-with-saw-66562.html?
>>
>> It's definitely portable and all you would be doing is straight
>> cut-offs.

> I doubt it's deep enough for a 2" pipe. Keep in mind it's
> 2" ID, more like 2 3/8 outside. Which is why I suggested
> just making a simple deeper mitre box out of wood.

You're probably right. The miter box shown in the link says it is 3 inches
high, but after subtracting the height of the base, that may just barely
leave enough height in the box to cut a 2 3/8 OD PVC pipe. But making a
cheap cross-cut-only miter box out of wood that is deep enough should be a
snap. Or, just look at other miter boxes that may already have a 3-inch
depth etc.

[gonjah]

Yeah, but does it julienne?

It does look like a handy tool. :)

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 12:27:36 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>My 10" table saw is deep enough to cut 2" but it won't do 3" unless
>you roll it. If you have it against the rip fence that is not a
>problem.

How do you roll it against the rip fence? The rip fence is going the
wrong way to cut pipe. I can see rolling it against the miter gauge,
though that seems dangerous.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 16:26:07 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 16:16:32 -0500, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>>>My 10" table saw is deep enough to cut 2" but it won't do 3" unless
>>>you roll it. If you have it against the rip fence that is not a
>>>problem.
>>
>>How do you roll it against the rip fence? The rip fence is going the
>>wrong way to cut pipe. I can see rolling it against the miter gauge,
>>though that seems dangerous.
>

>You roll the end against the fence to make a square cut, the right
>length and you roll the pipe along guiding with the miter gauge. Hook
>your thumbs behind it and roll the pipe under your palm

Unless I misunderstand you, that sounds *really* dangerous. The fence
will tend to twist the pipe against the blade. Using both the miter
gauge and the fence isn't a good idea. Ever.

[Vic Smith]

If you use your table saw for crosscutting a crosscut sled is easy to
make up. Easier than reattaching fingers.

[Jim Elbrecht]

Vic Smith <thismaila...@comcast.net> wrote:
-snip-

>If you use your table saw for crosscutting a crosscut sled is easy to
>make up. Easier than reattaching fingers.

and handy as hell for a multitude of jobs-- I'd say perfect for
slippery PVC.

Jim

[k...@attt.bizz]

OK, but you *don't* use it in conjunction with the fence. I don't
like the idea of loose stock as it's being cut, either. Bad mojo.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Wed, 02 Jan 2013 20:07:39 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>As long as you are holding both ends it is not a problem. I agree if
>the cutoff cocks, it is going for a ride.

But that's what the fence is going to try to do. It really is a bad
idea to use both the miter attachment and fence at the same time.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 01:49:06 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>When you are cutting big PVC you only use the front 30 or 40 degrees
>of the blade. I agree when material gets to the back if the blade, it
>will fly.

So you're going to leave the material loose in the miter attachment as
you cut it? That's another really bad idea. Why don't you just use a
miter attachment, or better, a sled, with a stop? Use the saw as it
was intended and there is a lot lower chance of an accident.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 12:38:26 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:37:15 -0500, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>
>>>When you are cutting big PVC you only use the front 30 or 40 degrees
>>>of the blade. I agree when material gets to the back if the blade, it
>>>will fly.
>>
>>So you're going to leave the material loose in the miter attachment as
>>you cut it?
>

>Why is it loose? You hold it tight to the miter and roll it against
>the front of the blade.

If it's not loose, it's not going to roll. If it does roll...

>All of the rotational force of the blade is down and toward the
>miter..

It doesn't matter, the material is loose against the miter fence. Go
ahead, but it's *not* recommended. I like my fingers too much to play
games like that. Four passes, cutting in quadrants, maybe.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 15:11:08 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>Maybe 45 years of practice makes it easier. My hands are nowhere near
>the blade. Maybe I should shoot a video because we are not going the
>same way.,

Four decades of sloppy is the way people lose fingers. The hands
don't have to be near the blade to have an accident. Your fingers.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 20:52:27 -0500, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>On Thu, 03 Jan 2013 18:58:19 -0500, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
>
>
>>>Maybe 45 years of practice makes it easier. My hands are nowhere near
>>>the blade. Maybe I should shoot a video because we are not going the
>>>same way.,
>>
>>Four decades of sloppy is the way people lose fingers. The hands
>>don't have to be near the blade to have an accident. Your fingers.
>

>Why does everything become a crusade with you. Lighten up.

It is important that newbs don't pick up bad habits. This is a *BAD*
habit.

[sms]

On 1/1/2013 11:36 AM, HerHusband wrote:

> For smaller diameter pipe up to 1", I use a ratcheting cutter. It's quicker
> than sawing and produces a perfect cut every time. The only time I have to
> fall back to a saw for small pipe is when I need to cut a short piece. The
> cutter tends to deform the pipe if it's too close to the end.

I agree, when I'm doing sprinkler pipe the ratcheting cutter is fine.
But on the 2" pipe my large ratcheting cutter is not fine.

What I ended up with is this:

$32: <http://www.harborfreight.com/08-hp-6-cut-off-saw-69438.html>
$8: <http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UKS7S>

Even though the Harbor Freight saw specifies a maximum blade diameter of
6", the 6.5" blade has plenty of clearance within the blade guard, and
doesn't extend below the bottom of the saw when the blade is all the way
down. It's also got the proper size arbor.

[DerbyDad03]

Perhaps the 6” specification wasn't about space for the blade. Maybe it was
about motor strength/speed.

Perhaps the physics behind spinning a 6.5" blade are beyond the long term
capabilities of the machine.

I'm just speculating.

[home...@home.com]

On Fri, 18 Jan 2013 16:10:16 -0800, sms <scharf...@geemail.com>
wrote:

I've always used a miter box with a miter hand saw. It's a little
slower, but it makes a nice even cut.

[limr...@gmail.com]

over here in asia..we use a steel cuttg blade instead using a teeth edge blade...drawback is heat up blade might melt the pipe...other than tht a aluminium blade also with 100teeth can do the job...i use a creamic blade to do the job.....

[Oren]

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 07:49:41 -0800 (PST), limr...@gmail.com wrote:

>over here in asia..we use a steel cuttg blade instead using a teeth edge blade...drawback is heat up blade might melt the pipe...other than tht a aluminium blade also with 100teeth can do the job...i use a creamic blade to do the job.....

I use a PVC cutter. Seems a waste of blades on power tools.

<http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apvc%20cutters>

YMMV

[Tony Hwang]

Hi,
Ditto for that. Cutter is faster than saw and more accurate.
Cutter will do it B4 you plug in the saw, set it up and cut.

[TimR]

True.
But the saw is big enough it can't hide, the cutter has disappeared into the bottom of a toolbox, junkpile, or the neighbor's pocket.

[Oren]

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:49:53 -0800 (PST), TimR <timot...@aol.com>
wrote:

Easy solution. I keep all my PVC irrigation fittings in a 5 gal.
bucket, covered with the lid. My PVC cutters reside there and easily
found when I need them.

[Tony Hwang]

Oren wrote:
> On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:49:53 -0800 (PST), TimR <timot...@aol.com>
> wrote:
>
>> On Friday, February 14, 2014 12:17:49 PM UTC-5, Tony Hwang wrote:
>>> Oren wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 07:49:41 -0800 (PST), limr...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>>> over here in asia..we use a steel cuttg blade instead using a teeth edge blade...drawback is heat up blade might melt the pipe...other than tht a aluminium blade also with 100teeth can do the job...i use a creamic blade to do the job.....
>>>
>>>>

>>>Mechaanics

>>>> I use a PVC cutter. Seems a waste of blades on power tools.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> <http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apvc%20cutters>
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> YMMV
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> Ditto for that. Cutter is faster than saw and more accurate.
>>>
>>> Cutter will do it B4 you plug in the saw, set it up and cut.
>>
>> True.
>> But the saw is big enough it can't hide, the cutter has disappeared into the bottom of a toolbox, junkpile, or the neighbor's pocket.
>
> Easy solution. I keep all my PVC irrigation fittings in a 5 gal.
> bucket, covered with the lid. My PVC cutters reside there and easily
> found when I need them.
>

Hi,
All my plumbing parts are like wise in one container. Mechanics tool is
in a tool chest. Saws are in another place in garden shed.... I am
adamant to put any thing back to where it was after using it. Becoming
more important habit as getting older, LOL!

[Oren]

On Fri, 14 Feb 2014 13:49:14 -0700, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
wrote:

>>> But the saw is big enough it can't hide, the cutter has disappeared into the bottom of a toolbox, junkpile, or the neighbor's pocket.
>>
>> Easy solution. I keep all my PVC irrigation fittings in a 5 gal.
>> bucket, covered with the lid. My PVC cutters reside there and easily
>> found when I need them.
>>
>Hi,
>All my plumbing parts are like wise in one container. Mechanics tool is
>in a tool chest. Saws are in another place in garden shed.... I am
>adamant to put any thing back to where it was after using it. Becoming
>more important habit as getting older, LOL!

I took a job after I retired. Kept a canvas tool bag separate for
electrical, plumbing, etc., in each bag. One glance and I knew which
one to look in for the tool.

Sample:

<http://www.toolexperts.com/images/D/1530_3_lg.jpg>

Always tell my bride: "Put the tool back exactly where you got it" :)

Just yesterday she noticed some picks I use and wanted to know all
about them. Harbor Freight: 4 Piece Pick and Hook Set

<http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16048.jpg>

I'll buy her a set next time I go there. She thinks they are good for
sewing and such...

[David L. Martel]

lim,

PVC pipe is commonly cut with circular saw using a wood cutting blade.
You want a blade designed for a fine finish
Dave M.

[vinspar.i...@gmail.com]

Dear Sir
I want to cut pipe of material polypropylene of different size.
Diameter is near about 58mm & thickness =2mm But in this pipe there is bunch of plastic fiber. When we will cut pipe at the same time this fiber should be cue uniformly.Please suggest suitable circular saw which will cut pipe with fire with fine finish cut. Please send me your E mail so that we will send you the photograph of our productdata:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAABMAAAATCAYAAAByUDbMAAAA7ElEQVR42s2USQuCUBSF/c0VNO+KNq4iqFVpk4FKA2HUogFKK6J1/YfoOUerm88GKCRLJFt8CG/xwT3nIJHjDuAXRIg6gl/8TpZoIKiMdeisTaAmOiSbyLusvzFB2p8fCNsThGkPsgwnP4nuZHk5YBmmvXo+s2tl5+lMTKyOoDjUgJNMKI00iDfQH0wjxSAguwqUrWkwc8P+kj3Ffv9YFq0hqE51EB3Cx+D32ky3I3CV8UvTUfIKHrKrrLUwPpKxkuEui1jVs+J7IW43Qn9RQF5Q7VPE3S2r3XVnhYHqfRq4kLTVoFPgwf2CvuUC4EVlZAJfVNwAAAAASUVORK5CYII=

[Oren]

On Sat, 23 Jan 2016 20:54:42 -0800 (PST), vinspar.i...@gmail.com
wrote:

>.Please suggest suitable circular saw which will cut pipe with fire with fine finish cut.

Get the one with a heating torch or the one that is cooler so it
doesn't burn the pipe. Just don't burn the blade.