Hardwood floor buckling from HVAC duct underneath
Mikepier
is buckling or crowning a bit with gaps between the boards directly
above where there is an HVAC duct running underneath between the floor
joists( about 10 feet length total). I think it has gotten worse this
past year because recently I finished my basement and closed the
ceiling with sheetrock, so I'm guessing all the heat from the duct is
concentrated upward towards the floor, although I thought wood shrinks
when its warm and dry instead of expand. Is there an easy fix for
this? Can it be hammered down with a 2X4 and hammer?
Joe
> Lately I've noticed a problem in my living room floor in that the wood
> is buckling or crowning a bit with gaps between the boards directly
> above where there is an HVAC duct running underneath between the floor
> joists( about 10 feet length total). I think it has gotten worse this
> past year because recently I finished my basement and closed the
> ceiling with sheetrock, so I'm guessing all the heat from the duct is
> concentrated upward towards the floor, although I thought wood shrinks
> when its warm and dry instead of expand.
You are quite right about how wood dries and shrinks. So obviously,
what is happening to your flooring is not dry heat related, but moist
heat related. The fact that it is in a basement is a clue. Basements
are notorious sources of moisture. Somehow in your closure of the duct
area you have a moisture source. Could be leaky pipes, damp walls
allowing an upward drift of moisture to the ceiling area. Whatever, a
thorough look at the way the basement was finished is in order. Once a
most likely cause is noted, remedial action is next. It would not be
surprising to find that code violations were the cause. Good practice
in basement upgrades mean insulation plus vapor barrier (6 mil poly
film most places) just for starters. Do some research and talk to city
building code folks to get the skinny. Look at local construction
projects to get a feel for how pros do it.
>Is there an easy fix for
> this? Can it be hammered down with a 2X4 and hammer?<
Probably not. The subfloor sounds like it is damaged. Maybe it might
revert somewhat if it dried out. Not a happy situation.
Joe
Tony Hwang
IMO, it's either problem with sub floor or poor installation of HW
flooring. (no room (gap) for expansion)
Thomas
and hammer?
Vent the basement cieling and sand the floor back to level. Just a
thought.
nor...@earthlink.net
An uneducated guess would be that the wood floor expands due to the heat
and insufficient room left around the flooring for expansion. Wood
furniture, usually with some unfinished surface, expands and contracts
because it can absorb moisture from air. Without a moisture difference,
there is still some movement with sufficient temp change. Since you
associate the crowning with closing up the heat duct, seems the answer
lies either in opening ceiling and insulating duct, or ripping up
baseboards and adjusting perimeter of flooring. Got some pix? How much
above the level flooring does the crowning go?
ransley
Is the duct fitted tight against the above floor is it insulated, I
dont think hammering will do anything, maybe finish nails or counter
sink screws and cover the screws with plugs. I would lower the duct
and see what happens
Mikepier
against the floor. Thers no way to lower the duct because the floor
joists are 2X8's, so the duct would sit lower than the ceiling. I use
forced hot air, no humidifier in the house , basement is dry, whole
house is dry, so I don't think it's humidity or moisture related.
jamesgangnc
Does your hvac system have a humidifier in it? If so and the metal
boot ends at the subfloor then you may have moist air infiltrating the
floor area. Enclosing the space below may have kept the air in closer
proximity to the wood for longer. But enclosing the space below may
just be a coincidence. You can use hvac mastic to seal any gaps. You
might be able to raise the metal boot as well. If you don't have a
humidifier then I'm a bit surprised.
In most cases crowning at the joints is caused by moisture. I would
not expect heat alone to do anything. Typically in the winter wood
floors shrink and have more pronounced gaps. Unfortunately after it
drys the crowning may remain. Unless it is really bad you probably
just want to live with. The only fix is to sand the floor flat again
with a belt sander and refinish.
Mikepier
this year. Perhaps maybe the enclosed space underneath is trapping
cold air when the heat is not on, maybe from the basement sill plates.
Just a guess.
I am going to try and keep the area in the sun by opening up the front
window blinds to see if it helps dry it out.
harry
>
>
Hello,
Put a room dehumidifier under the area; if it runs and collects water,
you need a dehumidifier in your basement. Obviously youarenot boss,
your house its boss over you . . .
Another thingy: whatis wrong with having the vent hang an inch or two
past the ceiling rafters? If anyone says anything about it: just say
you wanted a touch of Danish Modern in your house to see if you like
it . . . or get a different size/type vent. If your furnace doesnot
get proper air, youwill blow out your internal thermostat. Then pile
all your furnature on the hump until the weight forces the area flat.
If anyone says anthing about it: tell them you want a touch of Early
Nordic in your house to see if you like it . . .
Truly
Truth will set you free, according to Jesus in John 8:32
Stonecoldmd
--
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Bob F
> Having similar problem with newer home. Floor above feels like Im
> walking on rice paper with cracks and pops and squeaks. Even on tile
> areas. Corresponds to heating duct below in unfinished basement ceiling.
> Dont know whether too much or too little moisture. Have tried bracing
> subfloor with no success, sinking screws through subfloor into hardwood.
> Just getting worse. Would appreciate one and all suggestions
>
micky
>Having similar problem with newer home. Floor above feels like Im walking on rice paper with cracks and pops and squeaks. Even on tile areas. Corresponds to heating duct below in unfinished basement ceiling. Dont know whether too much or too little moisture. Have tried bracing subfloor with no success, sinking screws through subfloor into hardwood. Just getting worse. Would appreciate one and all suggestions
built by the same builders, or even at the same time. Check with them,
if they have had the same problem and what they have done.
bruce bowser
Cheez Whiz
> Having similar problem with newer home. Floor above feels like Im walking on rice paper with cracks and pops and squeaks. Even on tile areas. Corresponds to heating duct below in unfinished basement ceiling. Dont know whether too much or too little
> moisture. Have tried bracing subfloor with no success, sinking screws through subfloor into hardwood. Just getting worse. Would appreciate one and all suggestions
>
Stonecoldmd
Stonecoldmd
Stonecoldmd
micky
That's not what I meant. I meant to talk to actual neighbors,
especially the kind of guy who you see working on his home or yard**.
If you put the HOA in between you and them, you may get the abridged
version, a garbled version, or no version. Of course this depends. If
HOA turns out not to be some paid employeed of the management company
but an actual n'bor who is, say, chair or the "architecture committee"
and all she does it give you a list of neighbore who know a lot about
your houses, problems, etc. The odds that she or the rest of the HOA
will actually know who had your problem I think are quite low. Even
you will have to talk to more than one neighbor. (Ask each one who
might know.)
**It's also a good way to get to know your neighbors, and not just be
acqainted but friends. In general, people like other people for whom
they have done favors (even as little as telling you how they fixed
their house) MORE than they like people who have done favors for them.
I think this is universal, world-wide. An interesting facet of human
nature
P.S. I wish you poeple would quote the previous post OR say what it is
you're talking about it. I had to go back and look at my own post to
know what you referred to.
You people on Homemoaners should be aware that the best answers you get
come from Usenet, not your webpage. On your webpage, all the posts are
on one page in a row, with enormous amounts of wasted white and diddly
space and maybe advertising in between