Are fiberglass hammer handles better than wood?

[Caulki...@work.com]

For heavy construction and demolition, I use a 3lb sledge hammer. In
the past I have always purchased quality, name brand hammers with wooden
handles. Every year I break at least one handle, and the cost of the
replacement handles is almost as much as a new hammer, so I just buy a
new hammer.

I just broke another wooden handle, and went to buy another sledge
hammer. The place I went, no longer sells them with wooden handles.
They are all fiberglass handles now. I bought one, it cost about $3
more than the last time I bought one with a wooden handle. But if the
handle lasts longer, it will be well worth the extra $3.

But are they any better??? Will figerglass last longer? Somehow I cant
see where glass strands and epoxy will be stronger, in fact it seems
like it would be weaker. But I needed the hammer right away and did not
want to waste hours going to other stores.

Personally, I think those heavier hammers should have steel handles, and
I mean thick steel, not that cheap thin pipe they use on some cheap
carpenter hammers, which comes with a rubber grip that keeps sliding off
the handle.

(I'm seriously thinking of welding a piece of solid steel rod into one
of the hammer head of one of the broken handled hammers I have. I know
that wont break). Of course that will turn a 3lb hammer into a 4lb
hammer.

[John Grabowski]

*Amazon has a few steel handles:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5NI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00002N5NI&linkCode=as2&tag=mrelect-20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CRLJQI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002CRLJQI&linkCode=as2&tag=mrelect-20

[HerHusband]

> For heavy construction and demolition, I use a 3 lb sledge hammer.

> In the past I have always purchased quality, name brand hammers with
> wooden handles. Every year I break at least one handle, and the cost
> of the replacement handles is almost as much as a new hammer, so I
> just buy a new hammer.
> I just broke another wooden handle, and went to buy another sledge
> hammer. The place I went, no longer sells them with wooden handles.
> They are all fiberglass handles now. I bought one, it cost about $3
> more than the last time I bought one with a wooden handle. But if the
> handle lasts longer, it will be well worth the extra $3.
> But are they any better??? Will figerglass last longer? Somehow
> I cant see where glass strands and epoxy will be stronger, in fact
> it seems like it would be weaker.

I don't know about hammers, but fiberglass shovel handles are definitely
stronger than wood shovel handles. I used to break wooden shovel handles at
least once a year trying to dig out rocks and roots. I finally splurged on
a shovel with a fiberglass handle and have had the same shovel now for over
20 years.

That said, I've never broken a hammer or axe handle unless I have missed
the item I was trying to strike and hit the handle instead.

> Personally, I think those heavier hammers should have steel handles,
> and I mean thick steel, not that cheap thin pipe they use on some
> cheap carpenter hammers, which comes with a rubber grip that keeps
> sliding off the handle.

Steel doesn't absorb vibration the way wood or fiberglass does, and it adds
weight. Having said that my main framing hammer is a one piece steel design
with a nice rubber handle (has never slipped off). Being steel, the handle
tapers much thinner than a wood handle, I assume to save weight. I don't
know what brand it is, I've had it 15-20 years.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

[DerbyDad03]

I have a favorite hammer. I've had it for many years. I've replaced the
head once and the handle twice. Love that tool! ;-)

[Jon Danniken]

On 11/07/2013 07:10 AM, HerHusband wrote:
>>
> I don't know about hammers, but fiberglass shovel handles are definitely
> stronger than wood shovel handles. I used to break wooden shovel handles at
> least once a year trying to dig out rocks and roots. I finally splurged on
> a shovel with a fiberglass handle and have had the same shovel now for over
> 20 years.

A shovel is for digging, not prying; for that you use a spud bar or a pick.

Jon

[Harry K]

I'll also throw the tool's balance way out of whack. I've had to use a hammer my old man fixed that way. It wasn't worth throwing in the trash after he fixed it.

Harry K

Harry K

[Tony Hwang]

Hi,
I tried all three kinds, wood, fiberglass, steel. I still prefer wooden
handle.

[micky]

On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 05:33:06 -0600, Caulki...@work.com wrote:

>
>But are they any better??? Will figerglass last longer?

I've got fiberglass insulation in my attic that has been there for
over 30 years. Is that long enough?

[micky]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2013 15:10:49 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
<unk...@unknown.com> wrote:

>
>
>That said, I've never broken a hammer or axe handle unless I have missed
>the item I was trying to strike and hit the handle instead.

I saw a rubber thing that goes around a sledge hammer handle. I
like gadgets so I bought it. I have it just below the head. Does it
work? I suppose so, but I don't use the sledge that much and probably
have not hit it with a lethal blow, even if there were no rubber
collar.

It's transferable from one hammer or axe to the next, especially if
the handle is broken. It stretches enough to go over the thicker
parts of the handle, easily enough when new. And so it will be easy
to get off if the handle breaks. If the rubber gets stiffer after
10 years, ask me and I'll take a look at it.

[micky]

On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 09:19:42 -0700, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
wrote:

But for the OP's sake, why? Because they last just as long as
fiberglass and have some other advantage, or in spite of the fact that
they don't last just as long?

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 11/7/2013 6:33 AM, Caulki...@work.com wrote:

>
> But are they any better??? Will figerglass last longer? Somehow I cant
> see where glass strands and epoxy will be stronger, in fact it seems
> like it would be weaker. But I needed the hammer right away and did not
> want to waste hours going to other stores.

From personal experience. My splitting maul had a wood handle. I'd go
through at least 2 a year. Then I got a fiberglass handle and it is
still in there 20 years later.

> (I'm seriously thinking of welding a piece of solid steel rod into one
> of the hammer head of one of the broken handled hammers I have. I know
> that wont break). Of course that will turn a 3lb hammer into a 4lb
> hammer.
>

It will also turn it into something that will eventually damage your
hands. You will feel every jolt.

[nestork]

Here in Canada, Estwing is considered the Rolls Royce of hammers. But,
given that these hammers cost $50 or more, I've never owned or used an
Estwing hammer.

Estwing makes a 3 pound all steel sledge hammer, called the B3-3LB.

http://tinyurl.com/oysemzp

http://www.estwing.com/

Apparantly, WalMart and Home Depot sell Estwing, so you should at least
be able to get one without paying a high mark up.

Estwing tools are made in Rockford, Illinois.




--
nestork

[willshak]

I have used Estwing framing hammers for years when working for a general
contractor on my days off. I even hired him to build my house and I got
paid for helping him build it.
My Estwings are 22 ounce. I have 2 framing hammers, one with a smooth
face and the other a milled face. I also have an Estwing drywall hammer.
They are all single forgings of steel, all have a blue rubber shock
absorber on the lower part of the handle.
The other workers had various brands of hammers, but I liked the ring of
the Estwings when hitting a nail. :-)

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

[Jon Danniken]

On 11/07/2013 12:47 PM, willshak wrote:
>
> I have used Estwing framing hammers for years when working for a general
> contractor on my days off. I even hired him to build my house and I got
> paid for helping him build it.
> My Estwings are 22 ounce. I have 2 framing hammers, one with a smooth
> face and the other a milled face. I also have an Estwing drywall hammer.
> They are all single forgings of steel, all have a blue rubber shock
> absorber on the lower part of the handle.

I don't think rubber would hold up very long as a handle coating; my
Estwing, purchased 20-some odd years ago, uses Nylon on the handle, as
stated on the bottom.

Jon

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 05:33:06 -0600, Caulki...@work.com wrote:

And it will feel like you are hitting with your bare hand. Wood and
fiberglass absorbe a lot of shock - the steel will ring all the way to
your spine!!. ANd yes, a good fiberglass handle is quite superior to
MOST wooden handled, as far as strength and durability are concerned.

I like them to have a rubber sleave over them down close to the head
to protect against hitting the handle against the workpiece.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2013 15:10:49 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
<unk...@unknown.com> wrote:

Cant beat an Estwing all steel hammer with a leather grip. My dad
had his for over 60 years. Kid brother snafued it before I got the
chance, or I'd have it now. His hatchet too!!!

[Stormin Mormon]

On 11/7/2013 5:14 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
> Cant beat an Estwing all steel hammer with a leather grip. My dad
> had his for over 60 years. Kid brother snafued it before I got the
> chance, or I'd have it now. His hatchet too!!!

From what I've seen, there is EAstwing, and there
is Estwing. Note, the second letter. EAstwing is
good brand. Estwing is from Harbor Freight.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

[k...@attt.bizz]

+1

I've had my favorite hammer for at least 40 years. Never replaced the
handle. It's fiberglass. ;-)

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 7 Nov 2013 19:20:40 +0100, nestork
<nestork...@diybanter.com> wrote:

>
>Here in Canada, Estwing is considered the Rolls Royce of hammers. But,
>given that these hammers cost $50 or more, I've never owned or used an
>Estwing hammer.

I have an Eswing bricklayer's hammer but I don't like their claw
hammers. The steel shaft telescopes the impact right to my wrist. I
like fiberglass because the grips tend to be better than wood.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 17:48:30 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 11/7/2013 5:14 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> Cant beat an Estwing all steel hammer with a leather grip. My dad
>> had his for over 60 years. Kid brother snafued it before I got the
>> chance, or I'd have it now. His hatchet too!!!
>
> From what I've seen, there is EAstwing, and there
>is Estwing. Note, the second letter. EAstwing is
>good brand. Estwing is from Harbor Freight.

Nope. http://www.estwing.com/

[WW]

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news:1NUeu.107573$9P6....@fx22.iad...

Christ... Don't you have that reversed??? Look up the Estwing in Canada. WW
.

[nestork]

'Stormin Mormon[_10_ Wrote:
> ;3146330']

> From what I've seen, there is EAstwing, and there
> is Estwing. Note, the second letter. EAstwing is
> good brand. Estwing is from Harbor Freight.
>

No, Stormin. That's not correct.

Estwing hammers are quality all-steel tools made in Rockford, Illinois.

I've never heard of an Eastwing hammer, but if such a thing exists, I
expect it's made in China by the same company that makes Rotex wrist
watches and Channel perfume. :)




--
nestork

[Stormin Mormon]

On 11/7/2013 5:48 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 11/7/2013 5:14 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> Cant beat an Estwing all steel hammer with a leather grip. My dad
>> had his for over 60 years. Kid brother snafued it before I got the
>> chance, or I'd have it now. His hatchet too!!!
>
> From what I've seen, there is EAstwing, and there
> is Estwing. Note, the second letter. EAstwing is
> good brand. Estwing is from Harbor Freight.
>

I could be mistaken?
http://www.estwing.com/axes_outdoor.php

[Dean Hoffman]

On 11/7/13 4:12 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> And it will feel like you are hitting with your bare hand. Wood and
> fiberglass absorbe a lot of shock - the steel will ring all the way to
> your spine!!. ANd yes, a good fiberglass handle is quite superior to
> MOST wooden handled, as far as strength and durability are concerned.
>
> I like them to have a rubber sleave over them down close to the head
> to protect against hitting the handle against the workpiece.

And another potential use for duct tape.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Thu, 07 Nov 2013 17:48:30 -0500, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On 11/7/2013 5:14 PM, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> Cant beat an Estwing all steel hammer with a leather grip. My dad
>> had his for over 60 years. Kid brother snafued it before I got the
>> chance, or I'd have it now. His hatchet too!!!
>
> From what I've seen, there is EAstwing, and there
>is Estwing. Note, the second letter. EAstwing is
>good brand. Estwing is from Harbor Freight.

No, ESTWING is the original high quality hammer name, not EASTWING.

[nestork]

'Stormin Mormon[_10_ Wrote:
>
> I could be mistaken?
> 'Estwing Axes and Outdoor Tools'
> (http://www.estwing.com/axes_outdoor.php)
>

This time you are mistaken. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen.

I tried Googling "Eastwing hammer", and the few sites that claimed to be
selling Eastwing hammers turned out to be selling Estwing hammers. Some
sites will claim to sell anything you type into Google. If you type
"Monkey Phucktard" into Google, Alibaba will claim to have the lowest
prices on Monkey Phucktards, so I didn't check into those versions of
Eastwing hammers.




--
nestork

[Harry K]

On Thursday, November 7, 2013 10:02:22 AM UTC-8, micky wrote:
> On Thu, 7 Nov 2013 15:10:49 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband

I split a lot (as of 10 cord plus/yr), most of it manually. Used to replace the maul and sledge handles about every 3 years. Finally put on the rubber protectors. Only replaced one handle since and have reset (not replaced) the maul handle 3 times.

Yes they work and yes, the rubber gets stiff but it still comes off and goes back on without a problem.

Harry K

[Stormin Mormon]

I'd seen Estwing hammers at HF, and figured it "had to be" a knock off.
Oops, well, maybe not?

[Stormin Mormon]

I did the same with Google one time. I googled
India Tsunami Orphans. Maybe without the caps.
Anyhow, I was offered the lowest prices on
India tsunami orphan children. I didn't buy
any. Don't need any. Well, unless they come
with Estwing hammers, and are ready for construction
projects.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4CVZnGJIzQ
English tsunami orphans at least speak English.

[Stormin Mormon]

On 11/8/2013 12:03 AM, Harry K wrote:
>
> I split a lot (as of 10 cord plus/yr), most of it
manually. Used to replace the maul and sledge
handles about every 3 years. Finally put on the
rubber protectors. Only replaced one handle since
and have reset (not replaced) the maul handle 3 times.
>
> Yes they work and yes, the rubber gets stiff but
it still comes off and goes back on without a problem.
>
> Harry K

Were these fiberglass handles you'd been breaking?
With splitting, I'm sure there is no way to avoid
banging the handle up near the head. Glad to hear
that a good rubber helps keep you from breaking the
head off, while you're banging and splitting.

[HerHusband]

> A shovel is for digging, not prying; for that
> you use a spud bar or a pick.

We have very rocky soil. Everything from pebbles up to boulders 6 feet
across. It's virtually impossible to use a shovel here without doing a bit
of prying. :)

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

[Harry K]

No, they were wooden handles. I prefer wood handles for the "feel". I have overstruck a few times with the head missing the block and the handle hitting on the the rubber donut with no damage.

Harry K

[Stormin Mormon]

On 11/8/2013 10:58 AM, Harry K wrote:
>
> No, they were wooden handles. I prefer wood
handles for the "feel". I have overstruck a
few times with the head missing the block and
the handle hitting on the the rubber donut
with no damage.
>
> Harry K

Glad that works for you. Wood sure has a lot
of uses where it does great job.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Fri, 8 Nov 2013 14:33:13 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
<unk...@unknown.com> wrote:

>> A shovel is for digging, not prying; for that
>> you use a spud bar or a pick.
>
>We have very rocky soil. Everything from pebbles up to boulders 6 feet
>across. It's virtually impossible to use a shovel here without doing a bit
>of prying. :)

Even more reason to not use a shovel for prying. Loosen everything up
with a bar first, then clear the hole with the shovel.

[willshak]

You are right. I said rubber without looking at the hammer, but it is Nylon.
I bought the Estwings sometime before 1984 (when I built my house), so
they are about 29 years old. The blue material is still in one piece.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 15:09:05 -0500, willshak <will...@00hvc.rr.com>
wrote:

>Jon Danniken wrote:
>> On 11/07/2013 12:47 PM, willshak wrote:
>>> I have used Estwing framing hammers for years when working for a general
>>> contractor on my days off. I even hired him to build my house and I got
>>> paid for helping him build it.
>>> My Estwings are 22 ounce. I have 2 framing hammers, one with a smooth
>>> face and the other a milled face. I also have an Estwing drywall hammer.
>>> They are all single forgings of steel, all have a blue rubber shock
>>> absorber on the lower part of the handle.
>>
>> I don't think rubber would hold up very long as a handle coating; my
>> Estwing, purchased 20-some odd years ago, uses Nylon on the handle, as
>> stated on the bottom.
>>
>> Jon
>>
>
>You are right. I said rubber without looking at the hammer, but it is Nylon.
>I bought the Estwings sometime before 1984 (when I built my house), so
>they are about 29 years old. The blue material is still in one piece.

I have a fiberglass Craftsman hammer I bought 40 years ago that's
still my go to hammer. The rubber grip is still in good shape. I
have its twin (curved claw) that's almost as old and in just as good
shape. There's no reason a decent hammer won't last a lifetime if
it's taken care of.

[chea...@gmail.com]

I prefer a wooden handles because depending on the force of each strike, I can holder the hammer higher or lower for most comfortable grip.

[Vic Smith]

On Sat, 12 Jan 2019 23:35:42 -0800 (PST), chea...@gmail.com wrote:

>I prefer a wooden handles because depending on the force of each strike, I can holder the hammer higher or lower for most comfortable grip.

I have one fiberglass handle framing hammer, and a 15# sledge with same.
The rest of my 8-10 hammers/axes have wood handles, except for an all steel hatchet.
Some pros prefer Titanium framing hammers, like the Martinez or Stiletto.
But I'm not a pro, so wood works for me.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 1/13/2019 2:35 AM, chea...@gmail.com wrote:
> I prefer a wooden handles because depending on the force of each strike, I can holder the hammer higher or lower for most comfortable grip.
>

Whatever feels best in your hand when you swing. I have a couple of
wood and like them, but my splitting mail is fiberglass and holds up
better.