How to paint a steel trailer
Ignoramus322
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
Now that warmer weather has come, I can think about painting it.
The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
now on.
As an extra tidbit, I have 16 aerosol cans with "93% zinc paint". It
seems to be good stuff.
So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
would just be a few minuts per year.
A bigger question is what to do on the outside. There is a lot more
paint left on the outside and I sort of like the camo color
pattern. (though the grey color is not bad also and would fit the
color of my pickup)
Ideally, I would like to find a way to mostly preserve this pattern. A
few months ago, on the spur of the moment, I bought a couple of little
cans of paint at the local pro paint store, but I am a little doubtful
that latex paint will really adhere. Does anyone hve any experience
with repainting with latex over old paint or wirebrushed rust.
Any thoughts.
i
Mike Berger
Ignoramus322 wrote:
> I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
...
Ignoramus322
> What you need is a good one-step camouflage spray paint.
Would you have any specific suggestions as to what paint to use?
i
John L. Weatherly
> I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
Better have a 7" or 9" angle grinder for the 6" wire cup. They take a lot
of ass to spin them with the pressure you will use to get the rust. How
advanced is the rust?
If you have compressed air, you can get a cheap conventional spray gun to
shoot your trailer from the horrible fright. I use Sherwin Williams
industrial alkyd enamel for painting steel that needs a good finish.
I don't think you will be happy with latex paint at all. I would wire cup
it, prime it, and enamel it, and done. The guys at the store can clue you
in as to the reduction method for the particular paint you use.
Hope this helps!
--
John L. Weatherly
Nashville, TN
please remove XXXs to reply via email
Ignoramus322
> Ignoramus322 wrote:
>
>> I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
>
> Better have a 7" or 9" angle grinder for the 6" wire cup. They take a lot
> of ass to spin them with the pressure you will use to get the rust. How
> advanced is the rust?
I have a 7" grinder.
The rust, is not very advanced in most but a couple of places (I
believe that there are only two small spots rusted through). In most
other places the rust is superficial.
> If you have compressed air, you can get a cheap conventional spray
> gun to shoot your trailer from the horrible fright. I use Sherwin
> Williams industrial alkyd enamel for painting steel that needs a
> good finish.
>
> I don't think you will be happy with latex paint at all. I would wire cup
> it, prime it, and enamel it, and done. The guys at the store can clue you
> in as to the reduction method for the particular paint you use.
So, if I go to a store, I should ask for "industrial alkyd enamel", is
that right? What do you mean by reduction method? Thanks
i
Leo Lichtman
Mike Berger wrote: What you need is a good one-step camouflage spray
paint.
Iggy wrote: Would you have any specific suggestions as to what paint to
use?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I have some, but I set it down, and now I can't find it.
Gunner
<ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote:
>I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
>
>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
>
>Now that warmer weather has come, I can think about painting it.
>
>The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
>a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
>now on.
>
>As an extra tidbit, I have 16 aerosol cans with "93% zinc paint". It
>seems to be good stuff.
>
>So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
>a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
>ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
>once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
>would just be a few minuts per year.
Rino Liner
>
>A bigger question is what to do on the outside. There is a lot more
>paint left on the outside and I sort of like the camo color
>pattern. (though the grey color is not bad also and would fit the
>color of my pickup)
>
>Ideally, I would like to find a way to mostly preserve this pattern. A
>few months ago, on the spur of the moment, I bought a couple of little
>cans of paint at the local pro paint store, but I am a little doubtful
>that latex paint will really adhere. Does anyone hve any experience
>with repainting with latex over old paint or wirebrushed rust.
>
>
>Any thoughts.
>
>i
"Try thinking of the Libertarian Party as a rolled-up newspaper,
useful in making the Republican puppy (I've given up on the Democratic bitch)
go where he's supposed to -- not on that beautiful antique carpet
we call the Constitution." -- L. Neil Smith, Bill Clinton's Reichstag Fire
Steve B
"Ignoramus322" <ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote in message
news:2cydnbEJi9yjHY_b...@giganews.com...
What works good is a needle scaler. (yeah, right, like you NEED a reason to
go buy ANOTHER tool) But, they work really well, particularly in corners
and places where it's hard to fit in the grinder wheel or brush. Don't
forget ear plugs. Not very expensive, even for a good one.
Steve
Ignoramus322
> On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 09:16:37 -0500, Ignoramus322
><ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote:
>
>>I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
>>
>>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
>>
>>Now that warmer weather has come, I can think about painting it.
>>
>>The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
>>a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
>>now on.
>>
>>As an extra tidbit, I have 16 aerosol cans with "93% zinc paint". It
>>seems to be good stuff.
>>
>>So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
>>a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
>>ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
>>once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
>>would just be a few minuts per year.
>
> Rino Liner
The price for that is $900. I already asked. I have this brand of
bedliner in my pickup.
i
Oren
wrote:
>On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 09:16:37 -0500, Ignoramus322
><ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote:
>
>>I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
>>
>>http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
>>
>>Now that warmer weather has come, I can think about painting it.
>>
>>The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
>>a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
>>now on.
>>
>>As an extra tidbit, I have 16 aerosol cans with "93% zinc paint". It
>>seems to be good stuff.
>>
>>So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
>>a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
>>ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
>>once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
>>would just be a few minuts per year.
>
>Rino Liner
My thoughts, also. A small sandblaster would make fast work for the
serious rust spots.
--
Oren
"If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me."
Jon Danniken
>
> The guys at the store can clue you
> in as to the reduction method for the particular paint you use.
Haven't come across that term, "reduction method" before; what is it
(nutshell okay)?
Jon
Ignoramus322
Doing Rhino inside only would cost me about $900.
As far as sandblasting goes, I am quite open minded since I have a
"Real 5 HP" compressor and could, in principle, do sandblasting.
I assume that you are referring to those sandblasting guns that work
in the open, without a tent or some such, around.
i
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
"Ignoramus322" <ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote in message
> I assume that you are referring to those sandblasting guns that work
> in the open, without a tent or some such, around.
Um... Iggy... there MUST be a tent. But in this case, you should wear it,
rather than putting it up around the trailer.
(still pickin' grit outta my teeth from the LAST sandblasting exercise!)
LLoyd
HeyBub
> On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 10:07:32 -0500, Mike Berger <ber...@shout.net>
> wrote:
>> What you need is a good one-step camouflage spray paint.
>
> Would you have any specific suggestions as to what paint to use?
>
I think RustOleum makes some poka-dot paint....
Gunner
Its right next to the can of Kelly Green Paisley paint. Hard to miss it.
Gunner
Gunner
Have you checked into the doit yourself liners?
Gunner
Jon Danniken
Ah, thanks for that. I was thinking in terms of oxygen.
Jon
Ignoramus322
Yes, they look interesting. But they are not nearly as good as pro
spray in bedliners. For inside the trailer, though, I am pretty set on
using that zinc paint, I think that I already have those 16 cans and
it will actually last, with a touchup here and there or a sheet of
plywood thrown in as needed.
i
Oren
I have two small blasters. Just a small hopper, short hose and the gun
attaches to the compressor hose. I've used several types of blast
material. A cheap one is just simple play sand, sold near you. Crushed
pecan shells, etc. My favorite was called Black Witch.
Oh, a face shield.
This approach to blasting will help in the corners and tight spaces.
Years ago I found a product in the auto stores for rust called Extend.
Once to clean metal, spray this stuff on. I think Loctite Co bought
the brand is now on their site.
You have a compressor and you may be able to rent a blaster for the
day. One of mine is Craftsman brand. IIRC, $59.00 back then.
Save the $900.00 (G).
Steve B
"Jon Danniken" <jonREMOVET...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:57fke2F...@mid.individual.net...
Just add water.
Steve ;-)
Steve B
"Ignoramus322" <ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote
>> Rino Liner
>
> The price for that is $900. I already asked. I have this brand of
> bedliner in my pickup.
>
> i
A liner won't stop the rust. It will make it invisible, though.
Steve
Gunner
<ignora...@NOSPAM.322.invalid> wrote:
True they are not as good as. But then Harbor Freight hammers are not as
good as Estwing. But both will still drive nails for many years.
And they are not $900
Shrug
Paul
Iggy
$900! Is this semi trailer size? That sounds pretty steep. There's a
place in Frankfort IL that did my full size pickup bed for alot less,
under $400 several years ago. It's held up really well.
Paul
--
-----------------------------------------
It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be.
-----------------------------------------
Steve B
"Paul" <pdb...@comcast.net> wrote
>
> $900! Is this semi trailer size? That sounds pretty steep. There's a
> place in Frankfort IL that did my full size pickup bed for alot less,
> under $400 several years ago. It's held up really well.
>
> Paul
>
Seems to me that a pickup is about $450-600. Right? I've seen pics of
Iggy's trailer, and it doesn't look any bigger than a longbed pickup box.
Iggy, I'd get another quote.
Steve
Ignoramus322
I did my pickup bed for $460 or so. So you may have gotten a better
deal, but close. The $900 quote was for the trailer bed, inside and
over the top. Now, if you can suggest a cheaper place, not too far
from Chicago, I am all ears.
i
Ignoramus322
It is about as big as a long bed box (a little longer, at 110"
long). I agree, I need another quote. If I could put bedliner on the
bed as well as around the sides, for say $500, I would do it.
i
marc.b...@gmail.com
wrote:
> So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
> a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
> ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
> once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
> would just be a few minuts per year.
To help reduce the amount of time you spend physically removing the
rust, just get rid of the loose stuff with the wire wheel then spray
the hell out of it with something like picklex-20 or prep-step. Once
those have dried you are now all set to paint.
I'm guessing that the zinc paint is like the others that I've seen
that use an epoxy base to adhere the zinc, so it should be fairly
tough. You can paint over that stuff too.
I did a home job bedliner in my old truck, just reduced with the
appropriate thinner and sprayed it. Hardest part was prepping the
bed, the spraying too almost no time at all.
I would vote for removing the camo and matching your truck, most auto
body stores will get a pretty good color match made up for you.
Nick Mueller
> The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
> a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
> now on.
Wasn't all that already explained to you in full length? It was. Go read
those old postings again!
Nick
--
***********************************
*** The lowcost DRO ***
***********************************
<http://www.yadro.de>
Ignoramus322
Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc
paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see
how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we
had.
The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match
for my pickup.
If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to
paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top
of that.
i
Paul
Iggy
I sent a reply off list to your email but not sure if it went through,
did you get it?
Don Foreman
wrote:
>Ignoramus322 wrote:
>
>> The bed has some rust spots and such. I would like to know if there is
>> a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
>> now on.
>
>Wasn't all that already explained to you in full length? It was. Go read
>those old postings again!
>
>Nick
Might this offend your teutonic sense of precision and order, Nick?
We have indeed been there and done that recently, but perhaps it's a
matter of honor. The sequel jenny3kids thread ran to 127 postings
that ended about where it started, so Ig is now in far distant 2d
place. Such an ignominious position for the 1996 troll of the year --
but Ig and the year are both still young.
Relax, sit back and enjoy the show.
Ignoramus322
>> I did my pickup bed for $460 or so. So you may have gotten a better
>> deal, but close. The $900 quote was for the trailer bed, inside and
>> over the top. Now, if you can suggest a cheaper place, not too far
>> from Chicago, I am all ears.
>
> Iggy
>
> I sent a reply off list to your email but not sure if it went through,
> did you get it?
>
> Paul
>
Paul, sorry, I did not get your messages, my email addresses are
ichudov AT algebra DOT com and ichudov At yahoo DOT com.
igor
marc.b...@gmail.com
wrote:
> Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc
> paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see
> how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we
> had.
Should hold up great as long as the surface prep was sufficient. A
good brush down would do it.
Zinc paints pretty good stuff since its epoxy based, and the zinc
should act like hot dip (self healing).
> The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match
> for my pickup.
>
> If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to
> paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top
> of that.
I used the herculiner brand, and it seemed to stick to just about
anything. My only concern would be if the solvent in the mix would
interact with the epoxy poorly. Herculiner uses Xylene (and to spray
you'll be cutting it with more xylene), which is a good solvent for
many epoxies.
Should just loosen up the top layer to help it stick.
Too_Many_Tools
> I have this trailer that I made with a military surplus bed.
>
> http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/
>
> Now that warmer weather has come, I can think about painting it.
>
> a way to paint it such that it will only need minor maintenance from
> now on.
>
> seems to be good stuff.
>
> So, my plan for the INSIDE of the bed is to take a angle grinder, with
> a 6" wire brush, do a decent wire brushing job, and simply apply this
> ZINC spray paint on the inside. I do expect to do some touching up
> once in a while as the bed gets scratched, etc, but I hope that it
> would just be a few minuts per year.
>
> paint left on the outside and I sort of like the camo color
> pattern. (though the grey color is not bad also and would fit the
> color of my pickup)
>
> Ideally, I would like to find a way to mostly preserve this pattern. A
> few months ago, on the spur of the moment, I bought a couple of little
> cans of paint at the local pro paint store, but I am a little doubtful
> that latex paint will really adhere. Does anyone hve any experience
> with repainting with latex over old paint or wirebrushed rust.
>
> Any thoughts.
>
> i
Ig, if you don't mind I would like to ask a related question ....what
color should a person paint a trailer and why?
Thanks
TMT
Ignoramus32238
> On Apr 3, 8:44 pm, Ignoramus322 <ignoramus...@NOSPAM.322.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks. About a month ago, I wirebrushed and painted with that zinc
>> paint, an area in the bed about 12x15". I will soon experiment to see
>> how well it adheres and what happens to it after several rains that we
>> had.
>
> Should hold up great as long as the surface prep was sufficient. A
> good brush down would do it. Zinc paints pretty good stuff since
> its epoxy based, and the zinc should act like hot dip (self
> healing).
I tried, today, to scratch that paint with a hardwood stick. It could
not be scratched.
>> The "zinc cold galvanizing paint", actually, is a decent color match
>> for my pickup.
>>
>> If the bedliner would stick to the paint, I think that I would like to
>> paint with zinc paint to prevent corrosion, and spray bedliner on top
>> of that.
>
> I used the herculiner brand, and it seemed to stick to just about
> anything. My only concern would be if the solvent in the mix would
> interact with the epoxy poorly. Herculiner uses Xylene (and to spray
> you'll be cutting it with more xylene), which is a good solvent for
> many epoxies.
>
> Should just loosen up the top layer to help it stick.
OK. Thanks Marc.
i
Ignoramus32238
I do not know... I just hope to find some color that would not make
dirt too visible.
i
Geoff M
I have found that zinc rich (93%) paint to be quite soft, and it scratches
easily. Seems to work - I have some brackets I made several years ago and
after 5 years outside, there is no rust with 2 coats of zinc paint on them.
I suggest 2 coats of zinc paint, etc prime and 2 coats of enamel, and make
sure you get into all the corners and crevices.
Geoff