wood putty before or after staining
Sam Takoy
wood! This one:
http://www.hardwareharbor.com/1-4lb-pine-wood-dough-by-dap-inc.aspx
But on the can, the instructions say stain the wood first. How does that
make sense? My plan was to fill in a couple places where I had two and
then stain the whole thing. What would be the point if I stain my
natural pine a reddish tone and then fill the holes with this
pine-colored wood filler?
Thanks!
Sam
Al Boreland
I've always filled holes, sanded smooth and then stained.
"Sam Takoy" <sam....@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:ituj4f$vdl$1...@dont-email.me...
tra...@optonline.net
> I've always filled holes, sanded smooth and then stained.
Same here.
>
>
>
> "Sam Takoy" <sam.ta...@yahoo.com> wrote in messagenews:ituj4f$vdl$1...@dont-email.me...
> > So I bought sandable stainable wood filler by DAP. Feels and acts like wood! This one:
>
> >http://www.hardwareharbor.com/1-4lb-pine-wood-dough-by-dap-inc.aspx
>
> > But on the can, the instructions say stain the wood first. How does that make sense? My plan was to fill in a couple places where
> > I had two and then stain the whole thing. What would be the point if I stain my natural pine a reddish tone and then fill the
> > holes with this pine-colored wood filler?
>
> > Thanks!
>
> > Sam- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Pavel314
I checked the DAP site and found that they make wood filler in many
colors to match different types of wood. My guess is that they think
you got wood filler to match the color the wood will be after
staining. If you've got pine filler to fill pine wood, I'd fill first,
then stain.
Paul
Steve B
Real men don't read instructions.
Some manufacturers think that they make such perfect products that the putty
and stain are a dead on match, so you can do the fill after the stain. What
about when you sand? You seem to see that you have to use your own eye and
common sense sometimes in this world. Fill, let dry, SAND BEFORE STAINING,
then stain.
Steve
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
> "Sam Takoy" <sam.ta...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
Some filler will not take stain after it dries/hardens.
Baron
news:ituj4f$vdl$1...@dont-email.me...
Wood fillers rarely stain the same way as the surrounding wood. The
filler trends to be stained either darker (like end grain) or lighter ( due
to poor penetration). Plastic Wood does not take stain very well. This
means that you should be prepared to have the filled areas lighter in color
than the surrounding wood or be ready to do some color and grain matching.
I suspect the reason the directions state to fill first is that DAP wants
you to use the same finishing schedule on the filled areas that you use on
the rest of the wood. It gives you a fighting chance, in their mind anyway,
to achieve a good match.
Good Luck.
Joe
> snip<
> Wood fillers rarely stain the same way as the surrounding wood. The
> filler trends to be stained either darker (like end grain) or lighter ( due
> to poor penetration). Plastic Wood does not take stain very well. This
> means that you should be prepared to have the filled areas lighter in color
> than the surrounding wood or be ready to do some color and grain matching.
> I suspect the reason the directions state to fill first is that DAP wants
> you to use the same finishing schedule on the filled areas that you use on
> the rest of the wood. It gives you a fighting chance, in their mind anyway,
> to achieve a good match.
>
After giving up on commercial wood filler a while back I started using
regular 3M Bondo. The trick is to get a white hardener paste and the
cured result will take stain quite well, in my experience giving a
near perfect match to the stained wood. The fast cure is a bonus, too.
For dark stains, the usual rust colored hardener seems OK.
Joe
Sonny
> > But on the can, the instructions say stain the wood first.>
>
> > Sam
> I suspect the reason the directions state to fill first ....
>Baron
That's not what the instructions state. Baron, I think you have the
correct thought and procedure in mind, because your other remarks lend
itself to that. I'm thinking, this one particular noted line may have
been a typo.
Sam states:
>What would be the point if I stain my
natural pine a reddish tone and then fill the holes with this
pine-colored wood filler?
That is not what you want to do. You want to stain the wood the color
(reddish tone) you want, then use a filler that matches the stained
color (the reddish tone). You don't want to use a pine colored
filler. You want to use a reddish tone filler.... that matches, or
nearly so, the color you are wanting to end up with.
1) stain your piece, first, to achieve a slightly not-so-dark of color
you want to end up with. If thinning your stain, to get a slightly
lighter color tone, is necessary, then do so.
2) use a filler whose color best matches what is stained, the reddish
tone color
3) restain again to get the best overall color match between the
filled area and the real wood area. Since you (maybe?) used a thinned
stain (not quite dark enough) initially, the second staining will
result in the correct darkness of color you want the end result to be.
Since no filler will stain exactly like real wood, there will almost
always be a slight discrepancy in the color match when staining (the
first staining!!!) filler, alone, compared to staing wood. To help
combat the slight color difference, sometimes it's good to apply a
first staining with a slightly lighter colored stain, apply a color
match filler, then apply another coating of stain. This second coat
of stain doesn't have to alter so much of a discrepancy of "colors",
on the whole.
Re #3 above: Most folks don't want to restain OR restaining might
make the coloring too dark OR end up too thickly coated... or a
combination of these. Most DIYers aren't patient and want to complete
the job before all is properly dry/cured. Having to restain lends
itself to mistakes impatient DIYers are prone to do. Double staining
often produces too dark of results, if you are not careful.
Do some test staining and restaining on scrap wood and filler, to
guage your preventing having those "too dark" of applications.
Stainable fillers don't mean the product will stain exactly like the
real wood. It means you can manipulate the coloring. There are
multiple steps to getting good color matches, in cases as this. You
can't just apply a filler and expect it to stain like wood. To get an
exact color match, you have to use/do other procedures/aspects, in
conjunction with the filler treatment, in order to get the most
exacting color match possible.
Do some sample tests and be patient. Test, test, test!
Sonny
Larry W
match the color of the wood before or after staining. You will have to play
with it to to get an acceptable match. By staining the wood first, you
also seal it to some extent and prevent the filler from interfering with
the stain except in the small filled area. If you fill first and then stain,
there will be a much larger area around the filled hole where smeared filler
will make the wood take the stain color differently than the rest of the
piece.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Baron
news:e8a50717-7852-40db...@s17g2000yqs.googlegroups.com...
After giving up on commercial wood filler a while back I started using
regular 3M Bondo. The trick is to get a white hardener paste and the
cured result will take stain quite well, in my experience giving a
near perfect match to the stained wood. The fast cure is a bonus, too.
For dark stains, the usual rust colored hardener seems OK.
I do not make any money off of the product but I have had pretty good
success with Timbermate since it allows me to control the color at various
stages. I have been able to use oil and water based dyes as well as
pigments. I like that I can use it as a wood filler or as a grain filler
depending on how thick I prepare it. I also like that if I mess up, I can
remove it with water before applying any sealers / topcoats.
Good Luck.