Plywood butt joint for a finished wall
Borrall Wonnell
space. The wall will be well-secured to beefed-up framing. How do I
avoid rough edges/splinters, particularly at the butt joints between
plywood sheets?
My joint finishing options are:
1) Do nothing, simply risk splinters (it's decent grade plywood)
2) Tape/mud as you would with drywall (I doubt it would hold up)
3) Leave a 1/8" gap and use some T-molding between sheets (not exactly
the look I'm going for).
Any other ideas? Besides NOT building a climbing wall, that is? :)
GROVER
Another possibility is to butt the joints with #20 biscuits. Carefully
applied this technique should help align the plywood sheets and
eliminate any height differences.
Joe G
RicodJour
Paint it. Any sealant with some body will help bind the edges. But
if you're looking for something tougher you'll have to cover it with
something else. One possibility would be some sort of tape, such as a
roll of the tape used for flashing roofs and windows.
R
Pavel314
Nail the first sheet up and put a thin layer of plastic wood on the
butt end, then force the next sheet into the plastic wood and nail it
up. Remove the excess that squeezes out immediately.
dpb
The surest way other than a moulding would be to chamfer the edges
slightly before putting it up. Clean up any remaining roughness and
sand enough to be smooth edge. As another said, a good coat of an
enamel paint will then help prevent edges getting started altho one
might presume that the textured surface is an objective...
--
RicodJour
Right. Nice coarse sand in the paint, and maybe some glass chips, to
toughen up people and let them know what real rock feels like. ;)
R
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
Stucco
ChairMan
Borrall Wonnell <dbon...@gmail.com> spewed forth:
sandpaper
N8N
doesn't exactly answer your question, but I would seriously consider
using T&G the way I'm envisioning this.
nate
Red Green
You've been given multiple options to pick from. A spawn from dpb's above
is if you have a router, hit the edge with a small radius router bit before
hanging but that doesn't help with the field areas.
Prime and paint as RicodJour suggested.
aemeijers
What he said, and then mud the joint with epoxy or urethane, depending
on what color you are going for. I'd coat the whole damn thing in the
same stuff they use on bare concrete floors in stores, if you can afford it.
--
aem sends...
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
That was my first thought.
willshak
No one has asked so far, so I will.
How tall will this wall be?
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
aemeijers
If he can find a cheap source for 5/4 car siding or 2x t&g roof decking,
that would produce a better-looking wall than plywood. Unless this is a
wall for little kids, it pretty much needs to be 3x or 4x the climbers
height, to provide any sort of climbing experience.
--
aem sends, trying not to think about younger stronger days when I could
climb into the attic area of a just-framed house by jumping up and
grabbing the joists, and pulling myself up with arms and legs....
Joe
Taper the butt joint, coat with a slow cure epoxy, put on several
several layers of fiberglass, and let it cure hard. Next day, coat it
with Bondo, sand smooth and paint to suit. It ought to last you for
years done like that.
Joe
Borrall Wonnell
>
> No one has asked so far, so I will.
> How tall will this wall be?
>
I've been afraid to respond, there have been so many good
suggestions! I hate to pick one and make everyone else feel left out!
To answer the question, the wall will only be 8' tall. It is intended
more as a traverse wall rather than a climbing wall. Some sections
will be vertical, some at approx. 30 degrees. It takes up a corner of
one room, about 10' along either wall. The ceiling will be used as a
complete overhang. I also plan on attaching climbing ropes (more as
an obstacle course than climbing).
T&G was considered but I have some small sections so T&G would only be
a partial solution.
As mentioned, all will be 3/4" ply. Chamfering/paint sounds like a
really good option at this point...you'll know the joint is there but
it won't be conspicuous. I *could* fill with epoxy/bondo but I may
want to remove/salvage the wall at some later date. It'll be a trade-
off vs. potential splinters on the chamfered joint...time will tell.
Thanks all!
David Nebenzahl
> I'm building an indoor climbing wall out of 3/4" plywood in a finished
> space. The wall will be well-secured to beefed-up framing. How do I
> avoid rough edges/splinters, particularly at the butt joints between
> plywood sheets?
>
> My joint finishing options are:
> 1) Do nothing, simply risk splinters (it's decent grade plywood)
> 2) Tape/mud as you would with drywall (I doubt it would hold up)
> 3) Leave a 1/8" gap and use some T-molding between sheets (not exactly
> the look I'm going for).
I vote for #3, except that I'd use H-channel (overlaps sheets on both
sides), assuming that wouldn't interfere with the climbing function of
the wall. Not the look, no, and extra work and expense, but it would
certainly save the edges of the ply, which *will* get chewed up otherwise.
--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:
yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by
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nor...@earthlink.net
tile, laminate?