Stanley door opener
Ward Cleaver
ST400. It has worked fine for the three years since purchase of house.
this is what happened:
Worked fine last nite, this morning-
Pushed button. Started to open, got about a foot high and stopped.
Light that comes on when opening or closing door started blinking.
Push button again door starts to close, stops, goes back up about a foot
and stops again. Light still blinking.
Tried unplugging the unit from electrical outlet, nothing changed.
Checked the doorway, no objects or anything in path or underneath
where door closes. Electric eye to prevent closing on anything seems
to be working like it did before problem. Unlatched from closer and
door works normaly by hand.
Tried calling Stanley help line number (for 6 hours) but just get a
busy signal. Person at overhead door company said stanley went out of
business and they can't get parts. Looked up on web and found site with
parts but no help section or reps to contact.
Doordoc
Unplug unit & remove cover. Inspect gear housing & overload cam (if
unit has one it is a round white disc on end of drive shaft) for
breaks or cracks. If no parts are broken check to see if the motor is
tightly secured to opener housing. It is quite common for the plastic
parts to break or for the motor to literally fall off the chassis. If
there is no obvious signs of failure the problem is probably in the
logic board. It was also quite common for boards to fail during
lightning storms or power surges.
If parts are broken your best bet is to replace the unit. The Stanley
Works Company was sold off in pieces & fortunately for everyone the
garage door openers are no longer made. Some limited parts may still
be available around the country but most of them (other than
transmitters) are difficult to find.
Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com
mark Ransley
strength, set to + number on opener, . Oil and grease door and track.
Check springs, Disconect door , and raise manualy , to see if force is
equal, for upward and downward movement. Or Springs may be out of
adjustment.... making unequal opening and closing force.,
Adjustmemts or new unit.........
do_not_spam_me
> stanley garage door opener model # ST400. It has worked fine for
> the three years since purchase of house. this is what happened:
> Worked fine last nite, this morning-
> Pushed button. Started to open, got about a foot high and stopped.
> Light that comes on when opening or closing door started blinking.
> Push button again door starts to close, stops, goes back up about
> a foot and stops again. Light still blinking.
If it operates normally when the opener is disconnected from the door,
then check the door mechanism carefully for binding and balance.
Otherwise suspect:
1. Motor relays. There are 3 relays in small plastic boxes, and 2 of
them run the motor, one forward, the other reverse, another for the
overhead light (that's the clicking you hear when the bulb blinks).
Relay contacts build up carbon, or their solder joints crack, but I
doubt that you have bad relays since it's rare for both to fail
simultaneously. Generic relays with the same style contacts and
ratings will work, but fitting them to the board may be a problem
(must glue securely against vibration). Another relay problem is
blown relay drivers. These are transistors that send current through
the relay coils, but sometimes they go bad because the back-EMF high
voltage from the coil destroys one and its protective diode. Always
replace the diode along with the transistor or the new transistor will
blow almost immediately.
2. Limit switch, in the middle of circuit board where the 2 plastic
tangs go through a vertical slot in the board. The tangs are driven
by the motor, and one is supposed to close this switch when the door
is fully closed, the other when it's fully closed. You can see those
tangs move when the motor runs. The switch may have come unsoldered,
affecting its alignment, but sometimes a tang somehow skips over the
switch.
3. Cracked solder. Heat and motor vibration can crack the solder, but
cracks may be invisible except under strong light and a magnifying
glass.
4. Cracked circuit board. This doesn't seem to be a problem with
Stanleys, but if copper traces break where the board cracks, the crack
has to be filled with epoxy (slow-cure is better than fast-cure) and
the breaks bridged over with small lengths of solid wire. Just
soldering over the breaks won't last long.
5. Lubrication. Stanley chain drive openers must NOT be lubricated
because they're designed to run dry. Oiling or greasing the overhead
rail (actually a tube) will just attact dust and cause binding.
Very old Stanley openers have a gearbox cover made of fairly brittle
polyester that sometimes cracks where the microswitch for the safety
clutch (white nylon cones with a coil spring) mounts, preventing the
switch from working properly and creating a very dangerous condition.
But some time around 1990, Stanley switched to a much tougher plastic
that almost never cracks and to an electronic safety mechanism,
consisting of a magnetic disk on the motor shaft and a Hall effect
sensor. Any Stanley containing a chip with at least 24 pins
(microprocessor) has this mechanism, while the older openers with the
mechanical safety clutch use 3 generic 4xxx-series CMOS chips, each
with 14-16 pins.
Don't give up on a Stanley opener if the problem isn't a broken
mechanical part because almost every component on the electronic board
is commonly available and fairly inexpensive, and Stanley openers are
quite good and free of the electronic glitches experienced by
Chamberlains (Sears, Liftmaster) because of bad design (i.e., ignoring
blockage of the electric eye and continuing to close the door, getting
confused and not knowing which way to move the door).
Ward Cleaver
Thanks all for the info. I will check out those things mentioned.
-
We uns didn’t have no money fer no present so
We all just spit in a jar.