Re: What is a good temporary coating for extension cord joints
jamesgangnc
> On 1/9/2011 4:02 AM, j...@myplace.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have outdoor livestock tanks. It's been below freezing, so I have
> > to run tank heaters to keep the water from freezing. I run extension
> > cords from nearly sheds. All outlets are GFCI protected, because these
> > heaters can go bad and could kill animals. The problem is that where
> > the heater plugs into the extension cord, it's laying on the ground
> > outside the animal's pen (water tanks are against fence, cord goes to
> > outside of fence). So, the cords get covered with snow, the snow gets
> > into the connection where tank heater and cord connect, and blows the
> > GFCI. Of course then the water freezes, animals have no water, and if
> > it freezes hard enough, a $100 tank ruptures.
>
> > Anyhow, I'm looking for a suggestion what to use to seal these
> > connections that is easy to remove and can be put on in cold (and
> > sometimes wet) conditions. Electrical tape gets too stiff in the cold
> > and does not seal well since its too stiff, and dont work at all if
> > the cord is a little wet from snow. Duct tape works a little better
> > but still not real well, and is a pain to remove (Sometimes I have to
> > remove it several times in winter to change heaters accorsing to the
> > temperature, since I have 250W 500W and 1000W heaters. (I try to
> > change them to match the temperature and cut down on excessive
> > electrical use).
>
> > Is there some other tape, or anything else that I can use to seal
> > these joints, which can be put on in cold and damp conditions, and is
> > easy to remove? Or do they make something for this use? (This is a
> > rural area, so there is not much specialty things sold in the stores).
>
> > Anyone have any ideas?
>
> > Thanks
>
> tie 'em up off the ground on a stake or something and cover with a zip
> lock bag. personally, i won't use a gfci ANYwhere for that matter, but
> if you insist....
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
We've heard some of your other ideas so we'll give that one the credit
it deserves.
Stormin Mormon
the socket off the extension cord. Wire it directly into the
heater.
Other option is to run burried cable and put electrical
weatherproof socket at the stock tank.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Jon Danniken" <jonSPAMMEN...@yahSPAMhoo.com> wrote
in message news:igcetl$jsn$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Is it possible to replace the line cord on the tank heater
with one that is
long enough to reach the outlet in the nearby shed?
Jon
DerbyDad03
> On 1/9/2011 9:02 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Steve Barker wrote:
>
> >> tie 'em up off the ground on a stake or something and cover with a zip
> >> lock bag. personally, i won't use a gfci ANYwhere for that matter, but
> >> if you insist....
>
> > some exceptions but I think they're largely gone.
> > The GFCI does serve a purpose for livestock. Critters are really
> > sensitive to current leakage. There have been a lot of stories over the
> > years of dairy cattle not producing due to current leakage. Other
> > animals might not drink if there is current leakage around around water
> > tanks. They'll actually get a small shock while you and I wouldn't feel
> > a thing.
> > The code for livestock buildings is more stringent also now.
>
> code schmode, when on a farm you do what works. and gfci's don't work
> outside. BTDT, many times.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: "...and gfci's don't work outside"
Actually, they work very well outside, if used for their intended
purpose.
Based on what you said, these must be for inside use only:
http://www.the-power-washer-advisor.com/images/ExtCords_GFCI.jpg
mm
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>> [about Saran Wrap]
>
>One of the many advantages of the stretch wrap that I use is that no
>tape or tie wraps are needed.
What do you consider to be stretch wrap?
There are several brands of transparent wrap, and unlike aluminum foil
or waxed paper, each has different qualities.
>Since it sticks to itself when stretched, nothing else is needed to
>hold it in place.
>
>With nothing holding it in place except its own properties, it makes
>removal much easier also.
>
>In addition, it can be used to secure cords (or light strings) to
>poles, railings or anything else that you can wrap it around.
>
>It's also much cheaper than Saran Wrap or any other kitchen wrap.
So it's nothing that is sold for the kitchen. So what are you
talking about? What is the brand name? Where is it sold?
DerbyDad03
> On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 04:51:09 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
>
> >> [about Saran Wrap]
>
> >One of the many advantages of the stretch wrap that I use is that no
> >tape or tie wraps are needed.
* * *
> What do you consider to be stretch wrap?
I included an image link in my earlier post.
http://www.movingboxdallas.com/images/stretchwrap.jpg
This is the same material used to wrap pallets for shipping.
http://www.selftrading.co.uk/files/images/pallet-101-wrapped.JPG
>
> There are several brands of transparent wrap, and unlike aluminum foil
> or waxed paper, each has different qualities.
>
> >Since it sticks to itself when stretched, nothing else is needed to
> >hold it in place.
>
> >With nothing holding it in place except its own properties, it makes
> >removal much easier also.
>
> >In addition, it can be used to secure cords (or light strings) to
> >poles, railings or anything else that you can wrap it around.
>
> >It's also much cheaper than Saran Wrap or any other kitchen wrap.
***
> So it's nothing that is sold for the kitchen.
Right.
> So what are you talking about? As noted earlier....
http://www.movingboxdallas.com/images/stretchwrap.jpg
This is the same material used to wrap pallets for shipping.
http://www.selftrading.co.uk/files/images/pallet-101-wrapped.JPG
> What is the brand name?
That probably depends on where you buy it.
>Where is it sold?
I didn't include a link to a specific source since it is available
from many places, including (probably) the borgs and most moving
supply companies, e.g. U-Haul, etc.
Here's a link to a couple of Harbor Freight options.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=stretch+wrap
I have a roll of the "hand held" version that I use for all sorts of
wrapping needs, including the junctions of outdoor extension cords
used for holiday decorations.
I have a large odd-shaped item in my gargage that I wanted to protect
with a moving blanket. With my daughter holding the blanket in place,
I used the stretch wrap in a couple of strategic locations and the
blanket hasn't moved in years.
A former hobby required me to use a number of ratchet tie downs. I
don't need them very often now, so instead of keeping them in the
bucket where they tend to get all tangled up, I rolled up each set,
wrapped them in the stretch wrap and put them in small box until
they're needed.
If you've over stuffed your plastic storage bin and the top keep
popping off, run some strech wrap around it the top'll stay in place
forever.
Once you start using, it, you'll keep finding more uses for it.
The Henchman
So it's nothing that is sold for the kitchen. So what are you
talking about? What is the brand name? Where is it sold?
-------------
He's talking about plastic wrap that is used by the shipping industry to
wrap pallets and skids and boxes with. The average Joe can get wrap like
that at Staples and the like, even larger Post Offices or moving places that
selling shipping supplies. But it's sold in like 1000 foot quantities. If
you work for a company that has a shipping deptment you can get it there if
you ask your co-worker.
The stuff I use is kitchen food wrap that clings to one side of the plastic.
However I'm in Cold Canada where the cold weather can make any plastic wrap
or film unclingy so I use really good quality electrical tape to ensure the
wrap stays in place in case kids or dogs trip on my cords, etc. Usually
winter around my house the snow and ice will stay on the ground for 20- 30
days at a time, melt, then come back and stay another 30 days. There was
one winter where it stayed for 104 days straight. I'd had no fears about
water seeping in thru kitchen wrap plastic.
I don't use the tape around the plugs cause the adhesive messes things up
and sticks to stuff. It's like mucky glue.
Because I work in a warehouse for a living I can get DerbyDad's wrap for
free and I might try it next year.
The Henchman
re: "...and gfci's don't work outside"
Actually, they work very well outside, if used for their intended
purpose.
Based on what you said, these must be for inside use only:
------------------------------
There are outdoor rated (CSA and UL) GFCI's and there are properly rated
covers for them too.
You can also use GFCI breakers at the panel box for such a purpose however
these are costly. For example I have a 220 volt/7.5 amp swimming pool plug
that I could not find a properly rated outdoor gfci outlet for. When I
changed my panel box this summer, the Electrician said they are not
available in Ontario and I had to pay $145 for the breaker (2 pole).
OUCH!
DerbyDad03
I used the stretch wrap this year for my Christmas lights and we went
through all sorts of weather from snow to thaw to rain and none of the
connections had an issue. I had one connection where a 3-way adaptor
was plugged into the end of an extension cord but only 2 of the
receptables was being used. This connection was lying on top of the
bushes and got covered in snow a couple of times and also rained upon.
I think I would have known if there was an issue since my GFCI has
tripped in the past due to unprotected extension cord junctions.
For Halloween I used an extension cord that has a junction box and a
duplex receptacle on the end. I stretch-wrapped the whole mess and it
sat in the rain for days and never tripped the GFCI.
re: "I don't use the tape around the plugs cause the adhesive messes
things up and sticks to stuff. It's like mucky glue."
That's what makes the stretch wrap so convenient. It only sticks to
itself and once stretched it seals very, very well.
DerbyDad03
re: But it's sold in like 1000 foot quantities
Yeah, but for only $7.99!
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=stretch+wrap
I spent less than that on my roll and it has lasted a long time
although now that I'm finding more and more uses for it, I'll need to
get new one.
The Daring Dufas
A little searching turned this up:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/3938nhx
There are all sorts of water tight connectors available.
TDD
Paul Franklin
I wrap the connections on the cords I use for Christmas lights with
plastic wrap, the plain old stuff used to cover foods. A couple of
wraps of that, and then a zip tie on each cord. Seems to work well
and is pretty easy to remove. I doubt it would work if totally
submerged in water, but for snow and rain it seems to work fine.
HTH,
Paul F.
JIMMIE
I would make up cables with waterproof connectors. Make the cables
long enough so the only splice is at the tank where the heaters plug
into the cords. Consider installing a permanent outlet at the tanks
feed by a buried cable. Place the connections in a weather tight box.
Jimmie
T. Keating
Get some double gang code keepers, seal up backside or attach them to
double gang aluminum box. Mount them on a stake next to water tank,
place heater plug and extension cord socket inside code keeper.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_147292-53911-2CKNM-NG-L_4294821893_4294937087_?productId=3257028
-----
Or go full blown and build your own specialised extension cord (50 to
100ft) with 4 conductors(2 circuits) cable with two sets of outlets
inside a aluminum double gang box w code keeper and other end with
switches inside another double box w code keeper.
Make each outlet switchable from remote location. Plug in different
size heaters (250, 500, 1000) into their own switchable outlet under
the code keeper.
-----
or go super simple..
Use a foot long section of 1&1/2" grey PVC.. slip it over extension
cord and heater plug... Stuff some form in either end.
willshak
>
>
http://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Fix-Tape-As-Seen/dp/B00414DWQA/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
mm
Your idea sounds good. I was going to suggest wrapping in any kind of
a second-hand plastic bag, like from groceries, than putting tape over
the bag at each end, so you wouldn't be sticking the tape to the cord,
and you could cut it and take it off completely and throw away the bag
and the tape easily.
>HTH,
>
>Paul F.
Ken
I have used an old bicycle inner tube cut to a length that will cover
the ends of the cords and tied with Panduit ties. If you are really in
need of a waterproof cover, you can place a rubber caulk over both ends
before tying the ends with Panduit ties.
Jon Danniken
> I have outdoor livestock tanks. It's been below freezing, so I have
> to run tank heaters to keep the water from freezing. I run extension
> cords from nearly sheds. All outlets are GFCI protected, because these
> heaters can go bad and could kill animals. The problem is that where
> the heater plugs into the extension cord, it's laying on the ground
> outside the animal's pen (water tanks are against fence, cord goes to
> outside of fence). So, the cords get covered with snow, the snow gets
> into the connection where tank heater and cord connect, and blows the
> GFCI. Of course then the water freezes, animals have no water, and if
> it freezes hard enough, a $100 tank ruptures.
Is it possible to replace the line cord on the tank heater with one that is
aemeijers
> I have outdoor livestock tanks. It's been below freezing, so I have
> to run tank heaters to keep the water from freezing. I run extension
> cords from nearly sheds. All outlets are GFCI protected, because these
> heaters can go bad and could kill animals. The problem is that where
> the heater plugs into the extension cord, it's laying on the ground
> outside the animal's pen (water tanks are against fence, cord goes to
> outside of fence). So, the cords get covered with snow, the snow gets
> into the connection where tank heater and cord connect, and blows the
> GFCI. Of course then the water freezes, animals have no water, and if
> it freezes hard enough, a $100 tank ruptures.
>
> connections that is easy to remove and can be put on in cold (and
> sometimes wet) conditions. Electrical tape gets too stiff in the cold
> and does not seal well since its too stiff, and dont work at all if
> the cord is a little wet from snow. Duct tape works a little better
> but still not real well, and is a pain to remove (Sometimes I have to
> remove it several times in winter to change heaters accorsing to the
> temperature, since I have 250W 500W and 1000W heaters. (I try to
> change them to match the temperature and cut down on excessive
> electrical use).
>
> Is there some other tape, or anything else that I can use to seal
> these joints, which can be put on in cold and damp conditions, and is
> easy to remove? Or do they make something for this use? (This is a
> rural area, so there is not much specialty things sold in the stores).
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
house will have purpose-built gasketed plastic boxes for this purpose.
Looks sorta like a hot dog bun- put the cords in, and snap shut. Even
has strain reliefs to tuck the cords into, so you don't have to tie a
knot in the connection, which is usually why the ends come off cords.
(Googles) Here's one, at random:
http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/electrical.shtml#cover
But having said that, can't you just set the connection up on an old
milk crate or something? As long as I kept it out of standing water,
I've never had any problems.
--
aem sends...
RonB
> >Thanks
>
> I wrap the connections on the cords I use for Christmas lights with
> plastic wrap, the plain old stuff used to cover foods. A couple of
> wraps of that, and then a zip tie on each cord. Seems to work well
> and is pretty easy to remove. I doubt it would work if totally
> submerged in water, but for snow and rain it seems to work fine.
>
> HTH,
>
> Paul F.
Ditto this for both Christmas and some temporary connections for our
home construction. Plus I often add a ziploc bag over the connection
to shed water. I keep the opening pointed down so any moisture that
accumulates can drip out. This is temporary, and might be light-
weight for your use, but it works for a month or so.
Rob
George
> I have outdoor livestock tanks. It's been below freezing, so I have
> to run tank heaters to keep the water from freezing. I run extension
> cords from nearly sheds. All outlets are GFCI protected, because these
> heaters can go bad and could kill animals. The problem is that where
> the heater plugs into the extension cord, it's laying on the ground
> outside the animal's pen (water tanks are against fence, cord goes to
> outside of fence). So, the cords get covered with snow, the snow gets
> into the connection where tank heater and cord connect, and blows the
> GFCI. Of course then the water freezes, animals have no water, and if
> it freezes hard enough, a $100 tank ruptures.
>
> Anyhow, I'm looking for a suggestion what to use to seal these
> connections that is easy to remove and can be put on in cold (and
> sometimes wet) conditions. Electrical tape gets too stiff in the cold
> and does not seal well since its too stiff, and dont work at all if
> the cord is a little wet from snow. Duct tape works a little better
> but still not real well, and is a pain to remove (Sometimes I have to
> remove it several times in winter to change heaters accorsing to the
> temperature, since I have 250W 500W and 1000W heaters. (I try to
> change them to match the temperature and cut down on excessive
> electrical use).
You can buy booted cord connectors and caps that are intended
specifically for what you are doing.
Also if you need to use tape for something else in cold weather just buy
real tape. The typical tape you find at the big box mart is made from
cheap plastic and gets hard in cold weather and also with time.
Real electrical tape:
http://www.3m.com/product/information/Scotch-Super-33plus-Vinyl-Electrical-Tape.html
http://www.3m.com/product/information/Scotch-Super-Vinyl-Electrical-Tape-88.html
The Daring Dufas
> I have outdoor livestock tanks. It's been below freezing, so I have
> to run tank heaters to keep the water from freezing. I run extension
> cords from nearly sheds. All outlets are GFCI protected, because these
> heaters can go bad and could kill animals. The problem is that where
> the heater plugs into the extension cord, it's laying on the ground
> outside the animal's pen (water tanks are against fence, cord goes to
> outside of fence). So, the cords get covered with snow, the snow gets
> into the connection where tank heater and cord connect, and blows the
> GFCI. Of course then the water freezes, animals have no water, and if
> it freezes hard enough, a $100 tank ruptures.
>
> Anyhow, I'm looking for a suggestion what to use to seal these
> connections that is easy to remove and can be put on in cold (and
> sometimes wet) conditions. Electrical tape gets too stiff in the cold
> and does not seal well since its too stiff, and dont work at all if
> the cord is a little wet from snow. Duct tape works a little better
> but still not real well, and is a pain to remove (Sometimes I have to
> remove it several times in winter to change heaters accorsing to the
> temperature, since I have 250W 500W and 1000W heaters. (I try to
> change them to match the temperature and cut down on excessive
> electrical use).
>
> these joints, which can be put on in cold and damp conditions, and is
> easy to remove? Or do they make something for this use? (This is a
> rural area, so there is not much specialty things sold in the stores).
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
Out side of the sealed plug topic, I came across an interesting site
about deicers:
http://www.farminnovators.com/
TDD
dpb
...
> Out side of the sealed plug topic, I came across an interesting site
> about deicers:
>
> http://www.farminnovators.com/
...
Indeed; I can't imagine having such a makeshift operation to start with;
there's too much else to do to have to take the time not to mention the
inconvenience of dealing with it in inclement weather and the conditions
otherwise.
While were not large operation by today, feedlots have capacity here for
about 500 head in the main feeding lots and the working and holding pens
total five watering stations. They're all permanently plumbed/wired and
the heaters are thermostatically controlled instead of fixed wattage so
takes that away. Can't imagine dealing with anything else.
To get thru the immediate winter I'd follow w/ the recommendation of
picking the junctions up off the ground somebody else made on a
temporary post and switching to thermostatically-controlled heaters aka
the above link or something similar; there are many choices as well as
these (should be a stock item at the local farmers co-op or farm supply
of choice).
--
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Silicone caulk. It's a bugger to get off later - or silicone grease -
(silicone dialectric compund or waterproof silicone-based lubricating
grease)
Steve Barker
tie 'em up off the ground on a stake or something and cover with a zip
lock bag. personally, i won't use a gfci ANYwhere for that matter, but
if you insist....
--
DerbyDad03
For both my Halloween and Christmas decorations I wrap my cord
connections in stretch wrap like this product:
http://www.movingboxdallas.com/images/stretchwrap.jpg
I use in it all sorts of ways to secure items, seal items, waterproof
items, etc.
Many things that I used to use duct tape for now get wrapped with
stretch wrap. It's cheaper and much easier/cleaner to remove.
Dean Hoffman
>
> tie 'em up off the ground on a stake or something and cover with a zip
> lock bag. personally, i won't use a gfci ANYwhere for that matter, but
> if you insist....
>
The Henchman
I wrap the connections on the cords I use for Christmas lights with
plastic wrap, the plain old stuff used to cover foods. A couple of
wraps of that, and then a zip tie on each cord. Seems to work well
and is pretty easy to remove. I doubt it would work if totally
submerged in water, but for snow and rain it seems to work fine.
HTH,
Paul F.
------------------------
I'm in Canada and that's what I do. Saran Wrap stays flexible in the cold
and I use CSA or UL electrical tap to hold the wrap in place but zip-ties is
a good idea. Got it on the Xmas lights around my house roof and front yard
trees and there is about 10 cm or 3 inches of snow sitting on top of the
connections. Snow can stay on top of the connections for months before
melting some years.
Don't use old electrical cords. you'll want the insulation to be flexible
and uncrackabl and most importantly you'll want the prongs not to unplug
themselves due to freeze thaw cycles. Worn prongs and plugs don't stay in
place as well.
Steve Barker
code schmode, when on a farm you do what works. and gfci's don't work
outside. BTDT, many times.
DerbyDad03
One of the many advantages of the stretch wrap that I use is that no
tape or tie wraps are needed.
Since it sticks to itself when stretched, nothing else is needed to
hold it in place.
With nothing holding it in place except its own properties, it makes
removal much easier also.
In addition, it can be used to secure cords (or light strings) to
poles, railings or anything else that you can wrap it around.
It's also much cheaper than Saran Wrap or any other kitchen wrap.
charle...@gmail.com
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZE3FP6C
http://www.rainblock.net
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZE3FP6C
>http://www.rainblock.net
taxed and spent
<charle...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7bc23bce-c2a9-45ec...@googlegroups.com...
DerbyDad03
When I was in the USCG in AK, we sometimes had to repair the cables for
the runway lights. We had these kits that contained a 2 piece rubber case,
rubber bushings to seal the ends and a tube of sealant, almost like roofing
tar.
We'd repair the break in the cable, clamp the case over the repair and
then inject the sealant which would eventually cure around the break.
Almost like a healed broken bone, the repair site was stronger than the
original cable.
For Painted Cow:
USCG - United States Coast Guard
AK - Alaska
DerbyDad03
from Harbor Freight. Fold the cord ends over each other, slip a glove over
the plug/receptacle and secure it with a zip tie. Position the glove "fingers
up" and let it rain.
I do this at Halloween and Christmas and have never had a GFCI trip.
A power strip can be covered with a plastic box with some weight on
top so it doesn't blow away. One extension cord to a "hub location"
and then multiple cords from there.
Something like this...
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Large-FlipTop-Box-Clear-6pk/44785806
Micky
>http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZE3FP6C
>http://www.rainblock.net
sometimes under a foot of snow for years, probably 10 years by now,
with no protection at all without tripping a GFI. Maybe once it
tripped, but that could have happened because of the 4 indoor
receptacles on the same breaker.
When I pick up the cord, unless it's quite dry, I put my hand a yard
from the end, just in case, but I've never gotten even a tingle.
I can't call it a connection because whatever would be plugged in, I
take in at night, although I've probably had a radio plugged in a few
clear non-winter nights.
Micky
wrote:
I've done nothing for years and the GFI has not tripped.
I've had an extension cord sit on pavement and on the grass and
sometimes under a foot of snow for years, probably 10 years by now,
Oren
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>For Painted Cow:
>
>USCG - United States Coast Guard
>AK - Alaska
shifts, due to his dial-up methods and limited daily post from his
NNTP server. Remember "Home Guy"? Same creature.
hrho...@att.net
Oren
>The OP is from 2011!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Uncle Monster
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchcast-Inline-Voltage-Conductor/dp/B00O3P93I8
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/ProductCatalog/~/3M-Scotchcast-Inline-Resin-Power-Cable-Splice-Kit-82-A1-Up-to-2-AWG-1-per-box-10-per-case?N=5432394+3294755667&rt=rud
http://tinyurl.com/hcdedzm
[8~{} Uncle Splice Monster
Stormin Mormon
>>>
>>>> On Sunday, January 9, 2011 at 4:45:06 AM UTC-6, The Daring Dufas wrote:
>>>>> A little searching turned this up:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://preview.tinyurl.com/3938nhx
>>>>>
>>>>> There are all sorts of water tight connectors available.
>>>>>
>>>>> TDD
>>>>
>
>
>
>
Nice that he's up and about, again. I've been
missing TDD, he usually had great ideas for
people, here. Helped me out many times.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Stormin Mormon
for prevention of cruelty to
exclamation points!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
--
DerbyDad03
> On 3/29/2016 10:53 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On Sunday, January 9, 2011 at 4:45:06 AM UTC-6, The Daring Dufas wrote:
> >>>>> A little searching turned this up:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> http://preview.tinyurl.com/3938nhx
> >>>>>
> >>>>> There are all sorts of water tight connectors available.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> TDD
> >>>>
> >
> > I'm going to call my brother and tell him he's showing up like a bad penny. ^_^
> >
> >
> > [8~{} Uncle Splice Monster
> >
>
> Nice that he's up and about, again. I've been
> missing TDD, he usually had great ideas for
> people, here. Helped me out many times.
>
> -
That is not a very good indication that he is "up and about, again"
Stormin Mormon
mean some thing good. Guess not?
--
Uncle Monster
[8~{} Uncle Addicted Monster
Tekkie®
cornfused.
--
Tekkie
Smart Gal
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-is-a-good-temporary-coating-for-extension-cord-joints-613662-.htm
micky
I don't have anything plugged into it in the winter, unless I'm out
there doing something, but I've been letting my extension cord lie on
the ground in the grass when I'm not using it for the last 15 years or
so. It's on a GFI breaker (the outdoor outlet, along with the outlets
near the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and I suppose the laundry sink.)
And in all these years it's only tripped 2 or 3 times and I can't even
be positive that the extension cord is what made it trip.
It's out there in the rain, the snow, the dew. I'm careful not to pick
up the cord closer than 2 feet from the end, and I usually have no
reason to pick it up when it's wet out anyhow. I have walked by it
when it's in the wet yard, with shoes on, but I never got a tingle
either.
Given my experience, I can't help but think wrapping it in saran wrap
would be good enough. YMMV. Or the one that stretches might work
better. I think it's Glad Wrap that is a different material and it
stretches rather than clings.
There was, maybe still is, Handi-wrap, and that was different too
somehow.
angelica...@yahoo.com
> In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Dec 2021 02:15:02 +0000, Smart Gal
> <5cd029649fac4353...@example.com> wrote:
>
> >I have been doing that for years. Cheap and affective.
> I don't have anything plugged into it in the winter,
between the birdbath and the extension cord. It seems pretty
effective for the 5 months that we need it.
Cindy Hamilton
gfre...@aol.com
do anything. A bag or tape around it might actually collect water and
short it out.
Ralph Mowery
gfre...@aol.com says...
> If you keep the connection up off the ground you really don't need to
> do anything. A bag or tape around it might actually collect water and
> short it out.
>
>
>
the ground and have not had any problems. I am not sure if the outside
socket in the house I have live in for the last 10 years have a ground
fault on the outside or not as I have never tripped the fault breaker in
the breaker box so far.
I should probably test it some time, but just not that interisted.
micky
in, and the bathroom outlets also stopped at the same time. I replaced
the breaker and every thing worked again
vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com
also work. I've done this with audio connectors but also electrical
ones. The outer shell of my shaver's wire into the unit crackes, so I put
each connector into each pin. I had it with tape, but then I decided to use
hot glue.
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com
Mark Lloyd
[snip]
> I put up Christmas tree lights every year and keep the connections off
> the ground and have not had any problems.
idea if you don't make sure the opening is down.
> I am not sure if the outside
> socket in the house I have live in for the last 10 years have a ground
> fault on the outside or not as I have never tripped the fault breaker in
> the breaker box so far.
> I should probably test it some time, but just not that interisted.
21 days until the winter celebration (Saturday, December 25, 2021
12:00:00 AM for 1 day).
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
"In addition I think science has enjoyed an extraordinary success
because it has such a limited and narrow realm in which to focus its
efforts. Namely, the physical universe." [Ken Jenkins]
Clare Snyder
wrote:
it. Leaving it inr grass is just plain STUPID on so many counts.
rbowman
https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/extension-cords-power-strips/extension-cords/150-ft-extension-cord-reel-39343.html
gfre...@aol.com
everywhere.
angelica...@yahoo.com
> If you have enough receptacles you don't need extension cords running
> everywhere.
We pick up the bath and the cord after the last freeze and before the
first mow. Which in our area might be the same day.
Cindy Hamilton
gfre...@aol.com
I needed it, I would dig in some RNC and have a receptacle out there.
angelica...@yahoo.com
of work. We might want it a little deeper to ensure the frost doesn't
pop it out of the ground.
I presume the receptacle would have to be above grade, giving me another
damned thing to mow around.
Nah. Extension cord works fine. Roll it out in the fall and back in the
spring.
Cindy Hamilton
gfre...@aol.com
Whatever works for you I guess. Tywrap the cord to the birdbath post
so it is up off the ground and you will be OK.
Marilyn Manson
We use these for movement, haven't considered heat.
https://www.amazon.com/4WW-Water-Wiggler-Agitator-Baths/dp/B00075M3W6
angelica...@yahoo.com
> On Sunday, December 5, 2021 at 7:39:55 AM UTC-5, angelica...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > On Sunday, December 5, 2021 at 1:41:10 AM UTC-5, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > If you have enough receptacles you don't need extension cords running
> > > everywhere.
> > Except to the bird bath in the middle of the yard.
> >
> > We pick up the bath and the cord after the last freeze and before the
> > first mow. Which in our area might be the same day.
> >
> > Cindy Hamilton
> What are you using the cord for?
water is frozen.
And, yes, the connection is off the ground. Something like this,
with a stake pounded into the ground to hold up the connector.
Cindy Hamilton
gfre...@aol.com
12" (maybe 16") round block set at grade around your post and fill it
with concrete. Then you can mow right over it and have several inches
that nothing will grow. You could put green dye in the concrete and
make it almost disappear. I did that with my post lights in the yard.
I don't get off my rider and I don't like to "weed eat".