MINIWAX 235 Cherry?? Wood Finish
rick
projects. I was making a Chrismas gift for someone special using some
good quality knot free pine. After cutting, carving and sanding I
applied some of the finish mentioned in the subject to some of the
scraps to test it, yuk! I bought this because the person that I was
making this gift for has a beloved beautiful old cherry desk where I
pictured this gift residing. The desk is a rick dark red cherry
color. The MINWAX 235 is a yukky brown as applied to the wood, why is
this? Shouldn't cherry stain/finish have a reddish tint? Should I
have bought something different? I also bought some Minwax Fast
Drying Poyurethane Clear Satin to seal and protect after staining.
Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Happy Holidays, rick
Flyer
Rick,
It's a common misconception perpetrated by furniture companies
in particular that cherry is dark red. True, cherry will darken over
time when exposed to light, but generally not to the color you're
talking about. Minwax's stain is pretty close to what cherry really
looks like, although over pine it's going to appear really splotchy.
I had a job making a medicine chest for a woman who wanted it to
match her cherry bathroom vanity. Although the vanity was made of
real cherry, the stain that the factory applied gave it that dark red
hue you speak of. Minwax's cherry stain over the cherry medicine
chest frame did not produce anywhere near a match. What I discovered
was Minwax's #225 Red Mahogany that matched damn near perfectly.
The woman was so pleased, she asked me to stain her bathroom doors to
match also.
Tom Sidloski
Flyer
> Rick,
> It's a common misconception perpetrated by furniture companies
>in particular that cherry is dark red. True, cherry will darken over
>time when exposed to light, but generally not to the color you're
>talking about. Minwax's stain is pretty close to what cherry really
>looks like, although over pine it's going to appear really splotchy.
One more thought, Rick. When staining over pine, you should use a
sealer that's designed to even out the stain so it won't splotch
(darker and lighter areas) Minwax's Wood Conditioner is great for
this. But contrary to the instructions, apply the conditioner, wipe
off the excess, and then immediately start applying the stain. If the
conditioner dries, the stain won't penetrate well.
Yet again,
Tom Sidloski
Knotty 'n Nice Woodworking
Gary Creswell
Before you stain your new project, take a small piece of wood to a paint
store to get your color. Different types of wood take color in different
ways. Discount material suppliers have samples showing how the stains look
on differnt types of wood. HomeDoc2
Unknown
sealed in order to take the stain evenly. You should be able to get a pre
stain treatment from your hardware/paint store that should be applied to Pine
prior to staining. It makes a world of difference. Don.t think it will effect
the color though.
==========rick, 12/22/95==========
lfio...@lfiorava.wb.xerox.com
>
> On Sat, 23 Dec 1995 06:59:35 GMT, spirit...@vvm.com (rick) wrote:
>
> >Newbie Woodworker. I am just beginning to make small woodworking
> >projects. I was making a Chrismas gift for someone special using some
> >good quality knot free pine. After cutting, carving and sanding I
> >applied some of the finish mentioned in the subject to some of the
> >scraps to test it, yuk! I bought this because the person that I was
> >making this gift for has a beloved beautiful old cherry desk where I
> >pictured this gift residing. The desk is a rick dark red cherry
> >color. The MINWAX 235 is a yukky brown as applied to the wood, why is
> >this? Shouldn't cherry stain/finish have a reddish tint? Should I
> >have bought something different? I also bought some Minwax Fast
> >Drying Poyurethane Clear Satin to seal and protect after staining.
> >Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Happy Holidays, rick
>
> Rick,
> It's a common misconception perpetrated by furniture companies
> in particular that cherry is dark red. True, cherry will darken over
> time when exposed to light, but generally not to the color you're
> talking about. Minwax's stain is pretty close to what cherry really
> looks like, although over pine it's going to appear really splotchy.
> I had a job making a medicine chest for a woman who wanted it to
> match her cherry bathroom vanity. Although the vanity was made of
> real cherry, the stain that the factory applied gave it that dark red
> hue you speak of. Minwax's cherry stain over the cherry medicine
> chest frame did not produce anywhere near a match. What I discovered
> was Minwax's #225 Red Mahogany that matched damn near perfectly.
> The woman was so pleased, she asked me to stain her bathroom doors to
> match also.
>
> Tom Sidloski
>
>
Also try Minwax's Red Oak - its a newer color. When I stained my kitchen
table, I wanted a cherry color and the Red Mahogany was a little too dark for
me. The Red Oak is beautiful.
Use Minwax's Wood Conditioner over pine - helps eliminate splotches.
Grant
>Pine takes stain rather badly without some type of treatment. It must be
>sealed in order to take the stain evenly. You should be able to get a pre
>stain treatment from your hardware/paint store that should be applied to Pine
>prior to staining. It makes a world of difference. Don.t think it will effect
>the color though.
From another newbie woodworker -- I too have seen these problems and
I've looked in the stores for a pre-stain treatment, but frankly, I
don't realy know what I'm looking for. Can you give, say, a brand
name & product suggestion that I can try on some scrap? (or project,
sometimes they appear indistinguishable :-)
Thanks - Doug
Dana Dawes
If you're using Minwax stains, ask for Minwax Wood Conditioner.
Dana Dawes
Paintcraft
dda...@moscow.com
aj...@acsu.buffalo.edu
time,it"s not easy to get pine to look like cherry.Because of its
nature,it tends to absorb stain unevenly.The grain pattern of pine is
different. Cherry,after a year or two in the daylight,reddens and
darkens in a way that is not easily simulated. Try using the soft
wood sealer made by mimiwax befor you stain