Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Maytag Bravo Quiet series 300 - Lid safety bypass
419 views
Skip to first unread message
Diesel
Aug 29, 2016, 8:11:32 PM8/29/16
to
Before I begin, contrary to what you might have already read via
google/forum searches, you CAN bypass the lid closed/lock safety switch
on your Washer. It's not as simple as twisting two wires together,
though. You should also go ahead and unplug the unit while this is
being done. The circuits we're modifying are 5volts, but, it's possible
when cutting the wire you could short out the motor control circuit and
I wouldn't want you to risk any controller board damage.
If you proceed with these instructions, you do so at your own risk.
Bypassing the lid closed detection and locking circuits is a safety
issue and will slightly change the behavior of your washing machine.
It should go without saying that once these modifications are
performed, the washer will always think the lid is closed and the
actual locking mechanism will no longer lock the lid to prevent you
from opening it while the machine is running. DO NOT STICK YOUR HANDS
or anything else in the machine while it's still spinning. It's making
more than enough torque to give you a really bad day. Don't try to be a
hero and stop the rotating drum with your hands. It can break fingers,
hands, wrists, etc. Not fun.
The switch unit can be purchased online for around 15 dollars and comes
with a new cord attached to it, so at any time, you can reverse these
changes and put it back like it was. If you're in a pinch, this will
get your washer washing your clothes again while you wait on getting
the part to officially fix it. If you've already googled for a
solution, then you already know various forums claim what you're about
to do cannot be done. I assure you it can, if you follow my directions.
You will need the following:
3 short pieces of wire
A single SPDT switch (this is super important, it has to be this type
of switch) It has 3 connections. One in the center, one on each side.
Do not purchase a momentary contact kind as that won't work for this
purpose. You can buy these switches at most hardware stores and some
automotive centers that actually sell parts and pieces.
The one I happened to have in my extras pile happens to have a center
off position; if you can avoid getting one with that, go ahead and do
so.
A putty knife to lift the top of the washer unit. It has two tensioners
on it; One roughly 4-6 inches or so on each side. Slip the putty knife
in and press hard. Be sure to pull up on the side (left side if you're
doing the left one first). When it releases, repeat the same process on
the other side. It's going to have more tension on it with the top
partially loose; push extra hard. When you feel it release, pull on the
right side to seperate the top.
A philips screwdriver.
Wire strippers able to handle telephone wire. The wires you're going to
be working with aren't much thicker.
A small nutdriver (to remove the lid closed control unit)
A pair of needlenose pliers
You'll see underneath the top in the center a small gray box with two
screws holding it in place. Remove the screws, the box will come off
and you can take it apart. You'll find a total of six wires going into
it. Cut the entire wire 'harness' free from the box.
Go ahead and fish the disconnected 'lid' wire from the front of the
washer around the back. It has small wire holders, a pair of needlenose
is all you need to bend them from the back enough to release the wire.
You can opt to remove them outright, but, they're stuck fairly well
just bending the upper piece with the needlenose is easier.
You want the small pair of wires out the back of the washer as you're
going to drill a small hole into the side of the washer control box (on
the right side is easier) and install that switch. So you will be
taking the three philips screws loose to remove the control box to
route the wires and mount your switch. You'll do this after you're done
with the fishing part and have closed the top of the lid back.
With the unit released from all six wires, go ahead and strip the white
wire, the blue wire, the green wire, and the red wire. As I said
previously, don't strip the brown/black wires. Cut them at slightly
different lengths and tape them out of the way so they can't touch each
other or anything else.
Attach three wires to your switch from the extra wire you should have
acquired before you started this. One will be on the common terminal
(the one in the middle) and one for each other terminal. Be sure you
remember which one you connected to each terminal on the switch.
Now, take the green and white wires and twist them together with a
pigtail to be wired to the switch. You're going to land this one on the
'common' terminal (the one in the middle) of the switch.
Take the blue wire and connect it to either side terminal of the switch
with the wire you brought from the switch.
Take the red wire and connect it to the other side terminal you didn't
use to connect the blue wire. Make sure the connections are solid and
the wire isn't in the way of anything. Use wirestraps and a small
amount of electrical tape to position the new internal wiring out of
the way inside the control box. Put the control box back into position,
retighten the three philips screws holding it together.
With the switch in the position to where it's connecting the middle
terminal (that has white and green on it) to the terminal that has the
blue wire, press the power button..
This tells the washer that (a) the unit is in place and (b) the door
lid is closed. The white wire is your door lid closed circuit, the
green wire is power. The blue wire tells the machine that the device is
present and it can only be disconnected when the device enters a wash
cycle. Otherwise, it must be tied into green/white; which is what the
switch does in one position.
You may now add clothes, make your setting adjustments etc. When you're
ready, press the start button, wait for the chime to end (it's a second
or so), and flip the switch up so that it's now disconnected blue to
white/green and has tied red into white/green (red is your lid lock
confirmation circuit).
If you don't flip the switch in time, you'll be greeted with an error
message on the display and the lid lock light will flash. Reposition
the switch to the other setting, press cancel on the control box.
Repeat the step when I wrote to press start. It may take you a couple
of tries to get the timing right. When you do, in a few seconds, you'll
see the fill light come on and the washer will do it's thing.
When the washer is finished, you'll get a funny "DU" flashing with the
led lock light also flashing, this is because it wasn't able to
automatically unlock the lid for you. Flip the switch into the down
position and press the power button twice. It'll shut down. Your load
is done.
Repeat steps above (aside from the wiring aspects) to wash another
load. If you screw up the switch position, reset the position of the
switch to the correct one and press the cancel button. If you forget
and leave it in the lid lock position while powering on the washer,
it'll complain. You must always start with the switch in the other
position.
That's what I meant about it changing the behavior of your washing
machine slightly.
Just in case, I'll state once again. You are bypassing two safety
circuits on your washer with this modification. One which tells it the
lid is closed and the other that confirms the lid is locked so you
can't accidently open it while it's running. With this bypass
modification, that drum is NOT going to know to stop spinning if you
open the lid. Do NOT stick your hands or anything else in there while
it's spinning. I'm not responsible for anything that happens to you as
a result.
When/if you decide to properly fix it with the right unit, you can
easily disconnect the butchered wire we modified previously from the
control board as the new unit comes with one. Snake it around in
reverse just like you did the old wire to put it back in place. Also
note, the lid closed function relies on a magnet stored in the lid
itself. If the magnet is missing or has become weak, it won't have
enough to close the magnetic switch portion and your washer will think
the lid is open when it's not. You can test it, but, if you feel the
magnet on the lid itself (in the middle in the front) is bad, add a
small one or a magnetic piece of tape that'll hold up under some wear.
Be sure you don't get the magnet or the tape in the way of the locking
mechanism the new unit has; it's a piece of black plastic and can't
tolerate excessive abuse. IE: No slamming the lid.
And that's that. I tried to find an appliance repair newsgroup to post
this into, but, ES doesn't seem to carry one for the USA. So, I've
posted it here. Apologies if it's slightly off topic. I hope it helps
someone else out there who owns one of those machines.
--
MID: <nb7u27$crn$1...@boaterdave.dont-email.me>
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That
seems VERY clever!
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400
google/forum searches, you CAN bypass the lid closed/lock safety switch
on your Washer. It's not as simple as twisting two wires together,
though. You should also go ahead and unplug the unit while this is
being done. The circuits we're modifying are 5volts, but, it's possible
when cutting the wire you could short out the motor control circuit and
I wouldn't want you to risk any controller board damage.
If you proceed with these instructions, you do so at your own risk.
Bypassing the lid closed detection and locking circuits is a safety
issue and will slightly change the behavior of your washing machine.
It should go without saying that once these modifications are
performed, the washer will always think the lid is closed and the
actual locking mechanism will no longer lock the lid to prevent you
from opening it while the machine is running. DO NOT STICK YOUR HANDS
or anything else in the machine while it's still spinning. It's making
more than enough torque to give you a really bad day. Don't try to be a
hero and stop the rotating drum with your hands. It can break fingers,
hands, wrists, etc. Not fun.
The switch unit can be purchased online for around 15 dollars and comes
with a new cord attached to it, so at any time, you can reverse these
changes and put it back like it was. If you're in a pinch, this will
get your washer washing your clothes again while you wait on getting
the part to officially fix it. If you've already googled for a
solution, then you already know various forums claim what you're about
to do cannot be done. I assure you it can, if you follow my directions.
You will need the following:
3 short pieces of wire
A single SPDT switch (this is super important, it has to be this type
of switch) It has 3 connections. One in the center, one on each side.
Do not purchase a momentary contact kind as that won't work for this
purpose. You can buy these switches at most hardware stores and some
automotive centers that actually sell parts and pieces.
The one I happened to have in my extras pile happens to have a center
off position; if you can avoid getting one with that, go ahead and do
so.
A putty knife to lift the top of the washer unit. It has two tensioners
on it; One roughly 4-6 inches or so on each side. Slip the putty knife
in and press hard. Be sure to pull up on the side (left side if you're
doing the left one first). When it releases, repeat the same process on
the other side. It's going to have more tension on it with the top
partially loose; push extra hard. When you feel it release, pull on the
right side to seperate the top.
A philips screwdriver.
Wire strippers able to handle telephone wire. The wires you're going to
be working with aren't much thicker.
A small nutdriver (to remove the lid closed control unit)
A pair of needlenose pliers
You'll see underneath the top in the center a small gray box with two
screws holding it in place. Remove the screws, the box will come off
and you can take it apart. You'll find a total of six wires going into
it. Cut the entire wire 'harness' free from the box.
Go ahead and fish the disconnected 'lid' wire from the front of the
washer around the back. It has small wire holders, a pair of needlenose
is all you need to bend them from the back enough to release the wire.
You can opt to remove them outright, but, they're stuck fairly well
just bending the upper piece with the needlenose is easier.
You want the small pair of wires out the back of the washer as you're
going to drill a small hole into the side of the washer control box (on
the right side is easier) and install that switch. So you will be
taking the three philips screws loose to remove the control box to
route the wires and mount your switch. You'll do this after you're done
with the fishing part and have closed the top of the lid back.
With the unit released from all six wires, go ahead and strip the white
wire, the blue wire, the green wire, and the red wire. As I said
previously, don't strip the brown/black wires. Cut them at slightly
different lengths and tape them out of the way so they can't touch each
other or anything else.
Attach three wires to your switch from the extra wire you should have
acquired before you started this. One will be on the common terminal
(the one in the middle) and one for each other terminal. Be sure you
remember which one you connected to each terminal on the switch.
Now, take the green and white wires and twist them together with a
pigtail to be wired to the switch. You're going to land this one on the
'common' terminal (the one in the middle) of the switch.
Take the blue wire and connect it to either side terminal of the switch
with the wire you brought from the switch.
Take the red wire and connect it to the other side terminal you didn't
use to connect the blue wire. Make sure the connections are solid and
the wire isn't in the way of anything. Use wirestraps and a small
amount of electrical tape to position the new internal wiring out of
the way inside the control box. Put the control box back into position,
retighten the three philips screws holding it together.
With the switch in the position to where it's connecting the middle
terminal (that has white and green on it) to the terminal that has the
blue wire, press the power button..
This tells the washer that (a) the unit is in place and (b) the door
lid is closed. The white wire is your door lid closed circuit, the
green wire is power. The blue wire tells the machine that the device is
present and it can only be disconnected when the device enters a wash
cycle. Otherwise, it must be tied into green/white; which is what the
switch does in one position.
You may now add clothes, make your setting adjustments etc. When you're
ready, press the start button, wait for the chime to end (it's a second
or so), and flip the switch up so that it's now disconnected blue to
white/green and has tied red into white/green (red is your lid lock
confirmation circuit).
If you don't flip the switch in time, you'll be greeted with an error
message on the display and the lid lock light will flash. Reposition
the switch to the other setting, press cancel on the control box.
Repeat the step when I wrote to press start. It may take you a couple
of tries to get the timing right. When you do, in a few seconds, you'll
see the fill light come on and the washer will do it's thing.
When the washer is finished, you'll get a funny "DU" flashing with the
led lock light also flashing, this is because it wasn't able to
automatically unlock the lid for you. Flip the switch into the down
position and press the power button twice. It'll shut down. Your load
is done.
Repeat steps above (aside from the wiring aspects) to wash another
load. If you screw up the switch position, reset the position of the
switch to the correct one and press the cancel button. If you forget
and leave it in the lid lock position while powering on the washer,
it'll complain. You must always start with the switch in the other
position.
That's what I meant about it changing the behavior of your washing
machine slightly.
Just in case, I'll state once again. You are bypassing two safety
circuits on your washer with this modification. One which tells it the
lid is closed and the other that confirms the lid is locked so you
can't accidently open it while it's running. With this bypass
modification, that drum is NOT going to know to stop spinning if you
open the lid. Do NOT stick your hands or anything else in there while
it's spinning. I'm not responsible for anything that happens to you as
a result.
When/if you decide to properly fix it with the right unit, you can
easily disconnect the butchered wire we modified previously from the
control board as the new unit comes with one. Snake it around in
reverse just like you did the old wire to put it back in place. Also
note, the lid closed function relies on a magnet stored in the lid
itself. If the magnet is missing or has become weak, it won't have
enough to close the magnetic switch portion and your washer will think
the lid is open when it's not. You can test it, but, if you feel the
magnet on the lid itself (in the middle in the front) is bad, add a
small one or a magnetic piece of tape that'll hold up under some wear.
Be sure you don't get the magnet or the tape in the way of the locking
mechanism the new unit has; it's a piece of black plastic and can't
tolerate excessive abuse. IE: No slamming the lid.
And that's that. I tried to find an appliance repair newsgroup to post
this into, but, ES doesn't seem to carry one for the USA. So, I've
posted it here. Apologies if it's slightly off topic. I hope it helps
someone else out there who owns one of those machines.
--
MID: <nb7u27$crn$1...@boaterdave.dont-email.me>
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That
seems VERY clever!
http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400
bob_villa
Aug 29, 2016, 10:24:25 PM8/29/16
to
Diesel
Aug 30, 2016, 5:23:58 AM8/30/16
to
bob_villa <pheeh...@gmail.com>
news:57ef845c-6e57-4a38...@googlegroups.com Tue, 30
Electrical modifications aren't to be done by idiots. If what I wrote
is TMI for you, the instructions clearly aren't intended for you. No
offense.
news:57ef845c-6e57-4a38...@googlegroups.com Tue, 30
is TMI for you, the instructions clearly aren't intended for you. No
offense.
My 2 Cents
Aug 30, 2016, 5:38:31 AM8/30/16
to
On 8/30/2016 4:23 AM, Diesel wrote:
>
My method, or it would be if I decided I wanted to watch the clothes
wash. Find the switch, a dab of JB weld and clamp it down for a while.
>
My method, or it would be if I decided I wanted to watch the clothes
wash. Find the switch, a dab of JB weld and clamp it down for a while.
burfordTjustice
Aug 30, 2016, 8:45:33 AM8/30/16
to
burfordTjustice
Aug 30, 2016, 9:01:14 AM8/30/16
to
On Tue, 30 Aug 2016 00:11:28 -0000 (UTC)
Diesel <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> Maytag Bravo Quiet series 300 - Lid safety bypass
Take your pick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tT0n3YkA-U
Diesel <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> Maytag Bravo Quiet series 300 - Lid safety bypass
Take your pick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tT0n3YkA-U
Diesel
Aug 30, 2016, 6:03:52 PM8/30/16
to
My 2 Cents <Lo...@My.Hat> news:nq3k6i$vff$1...@gioia.aioe.org Tue, 30
Hmm. It's not that kind of switch... you can't just twist two wires
together and everything be okay. The device has more than one circuit
for 'safety' and if either circuit isn't happy, it doesn't wash your
clothes.
together and everything be okay. The device has more than one circuit
for 'safety' and if either circuit isn't happy, it doesn't wash your
clothes.
hunsolo
Dec 27, 2016, 4:14:04 PM12/27/16
to
replying to Diesel, hunsolo wrote:
Thanks so much, I have the exact same model and this helped a lot.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
Thanks so much, I have the exact same model and this helped a lot.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
Diesel
Dec 28, 2016, 6:03:42 PM12/28/16
to
hunsolo <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> news:3f2c4
$5862d999$a2d350aa$21...@news.flashnewsgroups.com Tue, 27 Dec 2016
the first try (timing is important and I do realize that) you can flip
the switch back down, hit the power button once to cancel, hit start
and flip the switch right after; should go like clockwork on the 2nd
try.
--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin
$5862d999$a2d350aa$21...@news.flashnewsgroups.com Tue, 27 Dec 2016
21:14:01 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:
> replying to Diesel, hunsolo wrote:
> Thanks so much, I have the exact same model and this helped a lot.
>
You're welcome. Glad to help! Btw, I've found that if it doesn't go on
> replying to Diesel, hunsolo wrote:
> Thanks so much, I have the exact same model and this helped a lot.
>
the first try (timing is important and I do realize that) you can flip
the switch back down, hit the power button once to cancel, hit start
and flip the switch right after; should go like clockwork on the 2nd
try.
--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin
Sabrina Gallegos Bettale
Apr 6, 2020, 5:44:05 PM4/6/20
to
replying to Diesel, Sabrina Gallegos Bettale wrote:
what if the whole magnetic piece is gone. than what do i do
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
what if the whole magnetic piece is gone. than what do i do
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
fiona
Sep 8, 2022, 10:45:10 PM9/8/22
to
Do you have a “for dummies” version? My switch broke into several little pieces so now washer won’t work.
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/maytag-bravo-quiet-series-300-lid-safety-bypass-901483-.htm
micky
Sep 8, 2022, 11:16:52 PM9/8/22
to
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 09 Sep 2022 02:45:02 +0000, fiona
an hour drilling apart, repairing, and reassembling the lid switch, and
the moment I was done, I wadded up a piece of paper and stuffed it in
that hole so the switch always thought the lid was closed. (If I'd
planned ahead, I woudln't have wasted my time repairing the switch.)
I use a ittle wad of paper with every machine I've had. (So far my arm
has not been sucked into the machine.)
If the switch were broken beyond repair, or I didn't ave time to drill
out the rivets and repair it, I'd disconnect the two wires from the
switch and connect them together Use a sliver of metal -- you could
even cut one from the top of a can of vegetables maybe -- and slide each
connector on one end. Then tape it up well, or better yet put
heat-shink tubing on it, in advance if need be.
I suppose with litttle children around this might be dangerous, but for
me, it enables me to add clothes and soap while the machine is
agitating. I suppose I could watch it spin too.
<d106842fc2992831...@example.com> wrote:
>Do you have a “for dummies” version? My switch broke into several little pieces so now washer won’t work.
This is obviously a top-loader. ONce when I got a used machine I spent
>Do you have a “for dummies” version? My switch broke into several little pieces so now washer won’t work.
an hour drilling apart, repairing, and reassembling the lid switch, and
the moment I was done, I wadded up a piece of paper and stuffed it in
that hole so the switch always thought the lid was closed. (If I'd
planned ahead, I woudln't have wasted my time repairing the switch.)
I use a ittle wad of paper with every machine I've had. (So far my arm
has not been sucked into the machine.)
If the switch were broken beyond repair, or I didn't ave time to drill
out the rivets and repair it, I'd disconnect the two wires from the
switch and connect them together Use a sliver of metal -- you could
even cut one from the top of a can of vegetables maybe -- and slide each
connector on one end. Then tape it up well, or better yet put
heat-shink tubing on it, in advance if need be.
I suppose with litttle children around this might be dangerous, but for
me, it enables me to add clothes and soap while the machine is
agitating. I suppose I could watch it spin too.
micky
Sep 8, 2022, 11:18:24 PM9/8/22
to
If you sell the machine or let a guest use it, you should warn anyone
who will use it that it runs even with the lid open.
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 08 Sep 2022 23:16:43 -0400, micky
who will use it that it runs even with the lid open.
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 08 Sep 2022 23:16:43 -0400, micky
Marilyn Manson
Sep 8, 2022, 11:56:11 PM9/8/22
to
On Thursday, September 8, 2022 at 11:18:24 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
> If you sell the machine or let a guest use it, you should warn anyone
> who will use it that it runs even with the lid open.
>
Write a note, tape it next to the controls. If they can read, they’ve
> If you sell the machine or let a guest use it, you should warn anyone
> who will use it that it runs even with the lid open.
>
been warned.
When your memory fails, you’ll be warning yourself.
Dean Hoffman
Sep 9, 2022, 8:19:15 AM9/9/22
to
The OP claimed a replacement switch with cord cost $15. It wouldn't take long to invest that much in a conversion. A quick look on Amazon put the SPDT switches at about 5 or 6 dollars.
0 new messages