Ryobi 18v One+ Batteries

[willshak]

I have 4 of the above that don't hold a charge for more than an hour.
I was at HD yeaterday buying some other stuff and saw a 2 pack of the
above Ni-Cad batteries for $59.97 + tax.
This is cheaper than the battery rebuilding companies.

--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

[Home Guy]

willshak wrote:

> I was at HD yeaterday buying some other stuff and saw a 2 pack of
> the above Ni-Cad batteries for $59.97 + tax.
> This is cheaper than the battery rebuilding companies.

Once in a while I'll buy a cheap no-name 18 volt drill with a single
battery pack for $20 and take the battery apart and cut out individual
cells and use them to replace the cells that have gone bad on the
battery packs of other drills and other cordless items.

[Unquestionably Confused]

On 6/7/2013 8:34 AM, willshak wrote:
> I have 4 of the above that don't hold a charge for more than an hour.
> I was at HD yeaterday buying some other stuff and saw a 2 pack of the
> above Ni-Cad batteries for $59.97 + tax.
> This is cheaper than the battery rebuilding companies.

I recall early on in Ryobi's 18v One+ (don't think they even used One+
then) They had them on sale for ~ $34 a pair. Even better deal was when
they were selling off some of the accessory tools (vacuum?) that came
with one battery and a charger and was on sale for like $20

At any rate, even at $59.97 all you're doing is buying new CRAP to
replace the OLD crap they sold you. I've never seen batteries fold so
fast. Properly charged and stored and they still don't last worth a damn.

IF you buy the new charger, a better deal would be to buy the One+ cells
in the LiIon version. Ni=Cad is for fools with lots of money<g>

[Percival P. Cassidy]

How did you connect the replacements? Typically they are spot-welded;
did you spot-weld them or simply solder them?

Perce

[Percival P. Cassidy]

On 06/07/13 09:34 am, willshak wrote:
> I have 4 of the above that don't hold a charge for more than an hour.
> I was at HD yeaterday buying some other stuff and saw a 2 pack of the
> above Ni-Cad batteries for $59.97 + tax.
> This is cheaper than the battery rebuilding companies.

I have three of the Ryobi NiCd 18V battery packs that will barely turn
the drill even when they are claimed to be fully charged. I also have
one of the small Li-Ion packs that is useless: I took it apart and found
that two of the five individual 3.6V cells are dead. The local Batteries
Plus store said that they do not rebuild Li-Ion packs. BTW, the cells in
this pack are by Sanyo and are the same ones used in many other
power-tool manufacturers' battery packs (including the ones with
lifetime warranties and the *claimed* 19.2V ones by Sears; maybe they do
show 19.2V for a minute or so immediately after being charged, but 5 x
3.6 = 18, not 19.2); the price per cell of the Ryobi ones is only about
half that of some of the other brands.

I have two of the 2.4AH Li-Ion Ryobi packs that are still OK, but within
a month or so of my purchase of the second one, they came out with 4AH
ones at about the same price.

At present HD is offering the combination package of drill, impact
driver, two "compact" Li-Ion battery packs, a charger and a carrying
case for $99. Those battery packs are still advertised @ $39.97 each,
but the improved higher-capacity (but still "compact") Lithium-Ion+ ones
are $54.97 each or $99 for a two-pack. You could say that with the $99
combo deal you are getting the tools and the charger almost free.

Perce

[tra...@optonline.net]

I rebuilt an old Milwaukee cordless that used nicads. I found
the nicads on Ebay, they were higher capacity than the old
ones and they come with tabs spot welded to the ends.
You have to then solder tab to tab, or possibly use a piece
of wire for the last ones, etc. You also have to keep everything
tight and aligned, there isn't much if any excess room.

It took me a couple of hours. Total cost was about $15
If you have an old pack that is shot, you can always try
taking it apart and see how it goes. Not much to lose.

I also rebuilt a Philips cordless toothbrush the same
way.

[Stormin Mormon]

Yes, noticably less than Primecell (dot com). Question is quality. How long will they continue to work? I really don't know.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.
"willshak" <will...@00hvc.rr.com> wrote in message news:kosn8b$v0v$4...@dont-email.me...

I have 4 of the above that don't hold a charge for more than an hour.
I was at HD yeaterday buying some other stuff and saw a 2 pack of the
above Ni-Cad batteries for $59.97 + tax.
This is cheaper than the battery rebuilding companies.

[jamesgang]

The problem I keep having is the thermosister in my sears craftsman 19.2v nicads gets burned out. And it's an odd value that I have not been able to find.

[Stormin Mormon]

I've found odd things on Ebay and Amazon.
Thermobrothers, and thermosisters and such.
Sears can be trusted to use off spec parts.
Might be a value close to original will work.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.

"jamesgang" <james...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:2037781f-0382-4f9b...@googlegroups.com...

[Danny D]

On Fri, 07 Jun 2013 08:52:15 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:

> If you have an old pack that is shot, you can always try
> taking it apart and see how it goes. Not much to lose.

Every time I've tried to solder nicad batteries, my success
rate was about 10%. Something (heat) kills them fast unless
you're really good at soldering (and I'm not).

[tra...@optonline.net]

On Jun 7, 2:56 pm, Danny D <Dan...@example.com> wrote:

> On Fri, 07 Jun 2013 08:52:15 -0700, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
> > If you have an old pack that is shot, you can always try
> > taking it apart and see how it goes.  Not much to lose.
>
> Every time I've tried to solder nicad batteries, my success
> rate was about 10%. Something (heat) kills them fast unless
> you're really good at soldering (and I'm not).

Did you get the batteries with the tabs on them? The tabs are
about an inch long. Hard to imagine how you could get that much
heat to the battery itself by using a solder iron.

[DD_BobK]

On Jun 8, 5:55 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
wrote:

Don't forget who's doing the soldering........

[jeff_wisnia]

You could always use conductive epoxy, I've got some in the kitchen
fridge freezer which has stayed usable for over 10 years now. It's
worked great for me many times, including repairing a broken
interconnection on a solar cell panel and reconnecting a broken off
piece of aluminum magnet wire. (They used to make TV set deflection
coils from aluminum wire back in the day when copper got scarce.)

Conductive epoxy's not cheap, but it's better than frustrating yourself
trying to solder the unsolderable.

Nor is it easy to find, You-do-it sells it:

http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/MG/id971.htm

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

[mike]

Tool batteries are HIGH current applications. I'd think conductive
epoxy might have too much resistance.
Get batteries with tabs already welded on.

[jeff_wisnia]

I agree that if he doesn't have the batteries already he should buy
tabbed batteries and solder to the tabs.

But, using conductive epoxy would probably work. This stuff:

http://tinyurl.com/l6fbabm

has 0.0006 Ω·cm resistance, which if I understand the definition
correctly means that if the area of the "patch" of epoxy securing a
strip of metal to the battery is 1/2 cm by 1/2 cm (1/4 square cm) and
the thickness of that patch of epoxy was as much as half a millimeter
then the resistance of that patch would only be 0.0000075 ohm, which
would hardly cause a noticeable voltage drop even at 50 amps of current.
(Only about 3/8 of a millivolt, eh?)

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about that.