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Combo table saw/compound mitre saw/circular saw - Does it exist?

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Paul Albers

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Aug 30, 2001, 11:32:35 AM8/30/01
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Is there something that can use my circular saw to also do the job of
a table saw and a compound mitre saw?

Paul

David G.

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Aug 30, 2001, 4:37:59 PM8/30/01
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There was talk a month or so ago about a saw table I use to own (well, still
own but it serves as a support table for other benchtop tools). It was made
by Hirsh. What you do is strap your circular saw underneath it and the blade
sticks up from a slot in the topside. Here's my take on it from that post:

"One of the reasons I didn't like it is that the metal plate
used to attach the circular saw bows due to the saw's weight. This had
little effect when doing straight rip cuts but severely effected bevel cuts.
Then again, it was a pain in the butt trying to set the saw up for accurate
bevels in the first place. Another major sore point with this table was the
miter gauge tracks: they were plastic and warped depending on temperature.
There was quite a bit of play in them."

As for the compound mitre features, I've not heard of any such device.

-david

"Paul Albers" <paul....@autodesk.com> wrote in message
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NOSPAMBOB

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Aug 31, 2001, 9:13:19 AM8/31/01
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If it sounds too good to be true ...

In article <3B8E5C93...@autodesk.com>, Paul Albers
<paul....@autodesk.com> writes:

>Is there something that can use my circular saw to also do the job of
>a table saw and a compound mitre saw?


Name works for E-mail

chita jing

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Aug 31, 2001, 11:21:54 AM8/31/01
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You can buy or build various jigs and gizmos to make a circular saw
track better than usual. It's not the worst idea in the world. Many
specialized tools are more convenient than doing it all by hand. Trouble
starts when you want really finished work from a circular saw that has
significant runout and other looseness. A jig cannot compensate for inferior
sturdiness and straightness. A few companies have bolted a circular saw to
the bottom of a table and tried to use it as a table saw. It works VERY
poorly. Everything vibrates, for one thing (of many).

Performance of tools really starts at the design stage. Using materials
and specifications that are suitable for rough framing will cause
unhappiness and expensive waste of materials when you try to take that same
tool and do fine woodworking with it.

The real cost of a tool isn't just buying the tool. It's also the value
of what you make with it. If you ruin a dozen sheets of hardwood cabinet
grade plywood in a year using a crude saw, that saw's price has gone up
astronomically.

--

"NOSPAMBOB" <nosp...@aol.com> wrote in message
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NOSPAMBOB

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Sep 1, 2001, 10:17:05 AM9/1/01
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Exacerbated by the cost to buy what SHOULD have been bought the first time.

In article <mYNj7.373$l8.4...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net>, "chita jing"
<ed...@earthlink.net> writes:

> The real cost of a tool isn't just buying the tool. It's also the value
>of what you make with it. If you ruin a dozen sheets of hardwood cabinet
>grade plywood in a year using a crude saw, that saw's price has gone up
>astronomically.
>


Name works for E-mail

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