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Using JB Weld on car gas line

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Jimw

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May 27, 2009, 12:58:31 AM5/27/09
to
I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
well on metals. I have heard it being used on gas tanks and never
heard of it leaking after it was used. However, someone told me that
modern gas will eat thru it. I dont see where modern gas is much
different than the gas was 10 years ago. I guess most of it has some
alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?

I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in a gas return
line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose. I'm
not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tank fuel pump (that's what I
was quoted), when the pump works fine. I would have thought the JB
Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
it (after all the gas is flushed out by pumping water thru it). But
the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.

Also, these lines have a gas hose with some really weird fittings that
need some special tool. The guy at the parts store told me I cant
just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
have high pressure. How high can it be? I doubt it comes even close
to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
compressor hose rated at 300psi. At the same time, I had a guy who
works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
fuel injection lines. So, who is right? I tend to think that auto
parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
$250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose. $300 to fix a
damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
the whole gas tank).

I hate working on these newer cars. Give me something prior to 1970
to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
crooks.

Jimw

Steve Barker

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May 27, 2009, 1:17:37 AM5/27/09
to

the jb will work. get it good and clean and dry and somewhat warm.
Then let it cure a full 24 hours. Don't use the jb quick.

s

ransley

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May 27, 2009, 7:12:42 AM5/27/09
to

What is fuel pump pressure, its probably low and a rubber piece
spliced in with clamps will be just fine, the pressure rating on those
hoses is im sure 5-10x what you have. I did it but needed 2 clamps on
each side. Id try JB first but clean well with Laquer thinner and
steel wool, alcohol and gas leave a residue. Braze it, that sounds
crazy since rust caused your issue and you dont have much metal left.
When my 91 Toy rusted a brake line out, within a year the fuel line
was shot from salt. When the brake line went I hit another car, check
yours, if they are all in the same location be carefull. JB even fixed
my plastic radiator top section at 10f, 4 years ago. Why did it break,
is the tank loose causing stress? Even my tank straps rusted away.

bob haller

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May 27, 2009, 7:58:03 AM5/27/09
to
> is the tank loose causing stress? �Even my tank straps rusted away.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

some modern vehicles pressure is over a 100 pounds, my 1990 caravans
normal pressure was over a 100 pounds, I found this out after putting
a pressure gauge on mine and driving around.

it would dsrop low occasionally causing vehicle stumble.

replace the pump to avoid a nasty gas leak and possible fire, or patch
line with proper high pressure hose.

Stormin Mormon

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May 27, 2009, 8:19:58 AM5/27/09
to
If the vehicle is carbureted, the pressure in the gas lines
is much lower. Fuel injected, runs at a much higher
pressure.

You mention a return line. Which is most likely rather low
pressure. I'd try the JB weld. as the other writer mentions.
The are needs to be clean and dry. And allow 24 hours for
curing time befor using the vehicle.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Jimw" <ji...@mail.is.invalid> wrote in message
news:aggp15pqljd1hht6k...@4ax.com...

Steve Barker

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May 27, 2009, 9:12:23 AM5/27/09
to

he SAID it was a return line. in fact the OP's statement to that effect
is STILL attached to this up above.

Message has been deleted

Joe

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May 27, 2009, 1:56:43 PM5/27/09
to
On May 26, 11:58 pm, Jimw <j...@mail.is.invalid> wrote:

Before you take your truck out for a post repair road test, stop by
NAPA. Autozone, Carquest or Pep Boys and buy a couple of the biggest
fire extinguishers they make. Take a cell phone with you and plan your
route to be within a mile of your local Fire Department. Try to stay
away from public places where people could be endangered. Keep in mind
that after the big conflagration, the FD will assign a cause to the
blaze, thereby canceling your insurance.
Of course, Finnegan's Law may not apply to you, in which case, best of
luck.
If you know someone really good with a welding torch, pros for years
have repaired metal fuel lines with silver solder. Requires much less
heat than braze, and has similar strength. You might even skip the
fire extinguishers.

Joe

Pat

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May 27, 2009, 2:27:02 PM5/27/09
to

Isn't Finnegan's Law "If I'm not with the girl I love, I love the girl
I'm with"?

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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May 27, 2009, 10:08:01 PM5/27/09
to

No comment on the JB weld, but use the special fuel injection hose and
the proper fuel injection clamps. They work, and although about double
the cost of good regular fuel line and clamps, it will outlast them
more than 3:1 on an EFI system.
Don't even think about air hose - the fuel will destroy it in short
order.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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May 27, 2009, 10:10:06 PM5/27/09
to
On Wed, 27 May 2009 11:07:39 -0400, gfre...@aol.com wrote:

>On Wed, 27 May 2009 04:58:03 -0700 (PDT), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
>wrote:


>
>>some modern vehicles pressure is over a 100 pounds, my 1990 caravans
>>normal pressure was over a 100 pounds, I found this out after putting
>>a pressure gauge on mine and driving around.
>

>On injected cars there are usually 2 fuel pumps, a small one to get
>the gas out of the tank and a booster pump up on the engine to get the
>100+PSI for the injectors.


Have not seen that on any cars in North America for over 20 years.

snew...@cox.net

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May 28, 2009, 12:17:19 AM5/28/09
to
On May 26, 11:58 pm, Jimw <j...@mail.is.invalid> wrote:
> I know JB Weld will fix most anything except some plastics and holds
> well on metals.  I have heard it being used ongastanks and never

> heard of it leaking after it was used.  However, someone told me that
> moderngaswill eat thru it.  I dont see where moderngasis much
> different than thegaswas 10 years ago.  I guess most of it has some

> alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt the JB Weld?
>
> I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in agasreturn
> line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose.  I'm
> not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tankfuel pump (that's what I

> was quoted), when the pump works fine.  I would have thought the JB
> Weld would be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze
> it (after all thegasis flushed out by pumping water thru it).  But

> the JB Weld is the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.  
>
> Also, these lines have agashose with some really weird fittings that

> need some special tool.  The guy at the parts store told me I cant
> just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
> have high pressure.  How high can it be?  I doubt it comes even close
> to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
> compressor hose rated at 300psi.  At the same time, I had a guy who
> works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
> fuel injection lines.  So, who is right?  I tend to think that auto
> parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
> $250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose.  $300 to fix a
> damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
> the wholegastank).
>
> I hate working on these newer cars.  Give me something prior to 1970
> to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
> crooks.
>
> Jimw

There are several Fuel tank repair products that you could use that
are made
to be impervious to gasoline:

http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=1258970&cp=1255100

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LCT-988638

http://www.itwconsumer.com/catalog.aspx?prodID=79

snew...@cox.net

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May 28, 2009, 12:26:41 AM5/28/09
to
On May 27, 11:17 pm, snewma...@cox.net wrote:
> On May 26, 11:58 pm, Jimw <j...@mail.is.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I knowJBWeldwill fix most anything except some plastics and holds

> > well on metals.  I have heard it being used ongastanks and never
> > heard of it leaking after it was used.  However, someone told me that
> > moderngaswill eat thru it.  I dont see where moderngasis much
> > different than thegaswas 10 years ago.  I guess most of it has some
> > alcohol in it, but will alcohol hurt theJBWeld?
>
> > I have a 91 Chevy truck and there is a pin hole leak in agasreturn
> > line in the fuel pump outlet, right before it enters the hose.  I'm
> > not going to spend $250 to buy a new in-tankfuel pump (that's what I
> > was quoted), when the pump works fine.  I would have thought theJB
> >Weldwould be fine, but if not, I will have a guy solder it or braze

> > it (after all thegasis flushed out by pumping water thru it).  But
> > theJBWeldis the easiest and cheapest method to fix it.  

>
> > Also, these lines have agashose with some really weird fittings that
> > need some special tool.  The guy at the parts store told me I cant
> > just use regular fuel hose and clamps because fuel injection engines
> > have high pressure.  How high can it be?  I doubt it comes even close
> > to the 100psi rating of the gasline hose, and if it does, I'll use air
> > compressor hose rated at 300psi.  At the same time, I had a guy who
> > works on cars as a hobby tell me that he has used gasline hose for
> > fuel injection lines.  So, who is right?  I tend to think that auto
> > parts store guy wanted to get his grubby hands into my wallet with his
> > $250 fuel pump, $20 special tool, and $28 special hose.  $300 to fix a
> > damn fuel line leak is insane (not to mention the hassle of removing
> > the wholegastank).
>
> > I hate working on these newer cars.  Give me something prior to 1970
> > to work on, when things were still simple and parts were not sold by
> > crooks.
>
> > Jimw
>
And.....JB Weld is impervious to gasoline after it's cured, and JB
Stik can even be used on wet gasoline surfaces.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

Larry

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Dec 6, 2016, 11:44:07 PM12/6/16
to
replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
Tow that piece of shit chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
with all its piss poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/using-jb-weld-on-car-gas-line-375484-.htm


cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 7, 2016, 8:01:57 AM12/7/16
to
On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Larry
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
>Tow that piece of shit chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
>with all its piss poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.

I'll have to agree with your opinion on GM vehicles - but if when you
buy ANY vehicle, GM or not, you spray all of the fuel and brake lines
with a good non-hardening rust-ptoofing they last a LOT longer. Fluid
Film works good and is about $10 a can on apecial, $14 any-time and
one can will do a vehicle several times. Do them every year. Rust-chek
has spray can product too - as do several other companies. Spray the
lines up above the gas tank too if they are not plastic lines.

Ralph Mowery

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Dec 7, 2016, 9:42:05 AM12/7/16
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In article <8d4e4$58479391$a2d350aa$26...@news.flashnewsgroups.com>,
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com says...
>
> replying to Jimw, Larry wrote:
> Tow that piece of shit chevy to the junk yard lol. I hate my 2000 silverado
> with all its piss poor engineering not to mention cheap ass parts.
>
>
YOu must not hate it too much if you still have it.

I had a 1972 Dodge I bought new and it was so sorry I got rid of it at
about 18,000 miles. That was the 3rd Crysler I had and never bought
another. Went to a GM car and the timing gear went out evrey 40,000
miles. Got rid of it after the 2 nd one around 80,000. Went to the
Datsun and put 100,000 on it . Wanted a new car so went to Toyotas and
put almot 200,000 on one and have 2 more now.


Larry

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Dec 7, 2016, 10:44:06 AM12/7/16
to
replying to clare, Larry wrote:
That is a great idea. I plan on sending mine to the junk yard after this plow
season. I bought a tundra and wont be buying another american made/china
assembly product again. I dont mind doing the brake lines its the lack of
engineering into chevy that kills me, nothing is thought out using logic. Its
a comfortable truck though i will give it that. Thank you for your feedback
and insight.

Larry

unread,
Dec 7, 2016, 10:44:07 AM12/7/16
to
replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
the junk yard in the spring.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 7, 2016, 2:54:16 PM12/7/16
to
On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
>I have a lot into the chevy so im trying to get it to pay me back. Bought a
>tundra to back it up when it breaks down again. After owning the toyota i wont
>buy any more american garbage. Going to plow it into the ground and send it to
>the junk yard in the spring.
The more you put into any troublesome vehicle - particularly a GM,
the less likely it will ever "pay you back"

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 7, 2016, 2:55:14 PM12/7/16
to
On Wed, 07 Dec 2016 15:44:01 +0000, Larry
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to clare, Larry wrote:
>That is a great idea. I plan on sending mine to the junk yard after this plow
>season. I bought a tundra and wont be buying another american made/china
>assembly product again. I dont mind doing the brake lines its the lack of
>engineering into chevy that kills me, nothing is thought out using logic. Its
>a comfortable truck though i will give it that. Thank you for your feedback
>and insight.
If you want a truck that rides like a car, get a chevy - but don't
expect it to last like a truck.

Ralph Mowery

unread,
Dec 7, 2016, 5:49:31 PM12/7/16
to
In article <85qg4clgje4v3qqpo...@4ax.com>,
cl...@snyder.on.ca says...
For me it would not really be about the payback, but how many times it
let me down on the road and I was stranded.

That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
traded shortly after it was repaired.

Vic Smith

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Dec 7, 2016, 6:55:46 PM12/7/16
to
I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.

Ed Pawlowski

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Dec 7, 2016, 8:01:35 PM12/7/16
to
On 12/7/2016 6:55 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

>>
>> That is what happened to me with one GM car. The 2nd time and it was
>> traded shortly after it was repaired.
>
> I've been driving Chevys for 50 years. Not a one has stranded me.
>

I've been stranded by one Chevy, two Olds, one Pontiac, two Buicks. I
won't have another GM car. Got rid of the last one ten years ago.
Every GM car I bought new had to go back in the first few months for
warranty work.

My third Hyundai did need a small warranty repair at 55,000 miles. If I
had a GM car with the same problem it would have long been out of
warranty. No problems with my Genesis at 24k.

One exception. If someone gave me a Corvette I'd graciously accept it.

Larry

unread,
Dec 7, 2016, 9:14:04 PM12/7/16
to
replying to clare, Larry wrote:
This is so true, where were you when i bought this pos? Lol

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 7, 2016, 9:26:43 PM12/7/16
to
My pontiac didn't strand me either - but it sure made getting
anywhere miserable -and It would have stranded me if I had not stayed
on top of it's problems. Although it never let me down, it never
instilled any confidence either.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 7, 2016, 9:30:09 PM12/7/16
to
The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn down
if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one. A couple
friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not something you'd
want to depend on for everyday travel.

"Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your ass in
fiberglass"

Larry

unread,
Dec 8, 2016, 10:14:05 AM12/8/16
to
replying to Larry, Larry wrote:
I really feel bad as i was just poking fun at the second chevy i have bought
and done nothing but work on. The first one had 50k on it and was a pos but
thats an s-10 for you. This one had 150k on it so in all fairness i knew it
was going to break. I didnt expect the 4wd switch, blower fan resistor, both
power windows, and all four calipers would go. Of course the power steering
pump, starter and alternator went in the next 3 months. I will say all but the
pump were easy to do. Sorry folks i didnt mean to start a thread of bash chevy
my bad. Going out to hug my chevy right now lol

Larry

unread,
Dec 8, 2016, 10:14:05 AM12/8/16
to
replying to Ralph Mowery, Larry wrote:
Very true sir. Most cars wont leave you on the side of the road but its
frustrating when it happens. Half the time when i sent it to the shop there
was a kid working on it and it came back half fixed only to break again. Had a
4 wheeler in the back of my truck and they failed my inspection because the
head lights were 8 degrees too high....i asked them if they thought the atv
had anything yo do with it. The guy just looked at me, stay in school kids
thats my advice lol

Vic Smith

unread,
Dec 8, 2016, 2:07:07 PM12/8/16
to
On Wed, 7 Dec 2016 20:01:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:

I have never bought a new car, and only bought one with less than
55,000 miles. That's my current 2003 Impala, which had 48,000.
Just did a short drive in my '93 Grand Am. Not saying my cars have
been trouble free, but nothing I can't handle. If you want trouble
free, you don't buy GM, used or new. But since I've never been
stranded, or even worried about it, they've suited me fine.
They allowed me to retire early.

Ed Pawlowski

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Dec 8, 2016, 5:18:02 PM12/8/16
to
Agree on the older 'vettes, but the new ones are much more reliable and
comfortable. I've known some owners over the years and every one has
another car for regular commuting and bad weather. Corvette is a nice
toy though. A friend just took his 2012 down to Florida for the winter
and averages 33 mpg.

As for the Volt or Bolt, I'd have to spend some time with it to see how
practical it is. I'm thinking heat in very cold weather and AC in
summer. Are they as good as a gas powered engine? One thing I really
like is being able to start my car for a few minutes with the heated
steering wheel on.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 8, 2016, 7:38:05 PM12/8/16
to
For the money I save by buying used Fords I can afford a few pairs of
good warm gloves - - - -.

Diesel

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Dec 17, 2016, 9:35:51 PM12/17/16
to
cl...@snyder.on.ca news:v7hh4ct15tod5p43v...@4ax.com
Thu, 08 Dec 2016 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:


> The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
> buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn
> down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one.
> A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not
> something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.

They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything
to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in
one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less
pain.

> "Wood is good, steel is real, and glass is class - so wrap your
> ass in fiberglass"

Just don't hit anything when you do. [g]




--
Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you.
Benjamin Franklin

DerbyDad03

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Dec 17, 2016, 11:58:56 PM12/17/16
to
On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 9:35:51 PM UTC-5, Diesel wrote:
> cl...@snyder.on.ca news:v7hh4ct15tod5p43v...@4ax.com
> Thu, 08 Dec 2016 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:
>
>
> > The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I was
> > buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't turn
> > down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money on one.
> > A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys but not
> > something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.
>
> They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has anything
> to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a heater core in
> one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail run thru my foot. Less
> pain.
>

How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is "fun"? There
sure aren't many.

My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were easily accessible
on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the glove compartment door and removed
the 2 screws on the panel that is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity
indeed.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Dec 18, 2016, 12:32:29 AM12/18/16
to
The series 2 Ranger pickup was pretty painless too - a bit more
difficult with a 4.0 than with a 2.3, but still pretty simple.

Diesel

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Dec 18, 2016, 3:48:14 PM12/18/16
to
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net>
news:ab9f1666-2b10-4e7a...@googlegroups.com Sun, 18
Dec 2016 04:58:49 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

> On Saturday, December 17, 2016 at 9:35:51 PM UTC-5, Diesel wrote:
>> cl...@snyder.on.ca
>> news:v7hh4ct15tod5p43v...@4ax.com Thu, 08 Dec 2016
>> 02:30:07 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:
>>
>>
>> > The only Chevy I'd consider would be a volt or a bolt if I
>> > was
>> > buying it. A 2 door fiberglass driveway ornament I wouldn't
>> > turn down if it was given to me, but I wouldn't waste any money
>> > on one. A couple friends have '59 and '61 'vettes - nice toys
>> > but not something you'd want to depend on for everyday travel.
>>
>> They aren't much fun to work on either. Especially if it has
>> anything to do with the interior behind the dash. Changing out a
>> heater core in one is no fun whatsoever. I'd rather have a nail
>> run thru my foot. Less pain.
>>
>
> How many cars do you know of where changing out the heater core is
> "fun"? There sure aren't many.

Depends on your idea of fun. The mazda b2x series pickups weren't too
bad. Even the s10/sonoma trucks by GM aren't as bad. And depending on
the make/model mustang, it may not be a miserable experience either.

Those corvettes oth, are a pain in the arse on a good day.

> My 1980 Mustang LX was one of the few. The heater core hoses were
> easily accessible on the firewall. Inside the car you removed the
> glove compartment door and removed the 2 screws on the panel that
> is revealed. The heater then just slid right out. A rarity indeed.

It's not quite as rare as you might think. You can typically do this
on the fox bodies too.

Diesel

unread,
Dec 18, 2016, 3:48:15 PM12/18/16
to
Larry <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
news:d6867$584978b9$a2d350aa$6...@news.flashnewsgroups.com Thu, 08
Dec 2016 15:14:01 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

> replying to Larry, Larry wrote:
> I really feel bad as i was just poking fun at the second chevy i
> have bought and done nothing but work on. The first one had 50k on
> it and was a pos but thats an s-10 for you. This one had 150k on
> it so in all fairness i knew it was going to break. I didnt expect
> the 4wd switch, blower fan resistor, both power windows, and all
> four calipers would go. Of course the power steering pump, starter
> and alternator went in the next 3 months. I will say all but the
> pump were easy to do. Sorry folks i didnt mean to start a thread
> of bash chevy my bad. Going out to hug my chevy right now lol
>

LOL. I've had several s10s and sonomas. I really like them. But, I also
understand that I will be dealing with electrical issues on all of
them, I've yet to meet one that doesn't do the GM wiring 'can you guess
what's wrong with me today?' routine. :)

My favorite one had the 2.5liter iron duke engine. Great little motor,
fantastic on gas milage too. But, it did get me for a starter, heater
core, blower resistor pack (saab's blower resistor pack isn't any
better, btw), etc.

Despite these issues, not one has actually stranded me. I knew ahead of
time before I left the driveway the truck had one or more issues that
could interfere with it's ability to get me home, should I venture out.

Larry

unread,
Dec 18, 2016, 8:14:04 PM12/18/16
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replying to Vic Smith, Larry wrote:
You buy a new one every 5 years and trade it in before it becomes a big piece
of shit yeah yeah lol

HowIronic

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Dec 8, 2021, 11:31:35 AM12/8/21
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I actually jb welded a spraying gas line, i sanded the area and dried it very well, globbed a bunch on in the evening and the next morning the problem was solved. It was on a 91 calais. Also like 15 to 20 years ago. But it was spraying out like crazy. And there is no real difference from gas 20 years ago than today unless u get the e85 stuff. But still it would eat thru jb weld any different than than regular 87 octane if anything probably less

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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/using-jb-weld-on-car-gas-line-375484-.htm

gfre...@aol.com

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Dec 8, 2021, 1:18:17 PM12/8/21
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On Wed, 8 Dec 2021 16:31:29 +0000, HowIronic
<ace936c6c4383981...@example.com> wrote:

>I actually jb welded a spraying gas line, i sanded the area and dried it very well, globbed a bunch on in the evening and the next morning the problem was solved. It was on a 91 calais. Also like 15 to 20 years ago. But it was spraying out like crazy. And there is no real difference from gas 20 years ago than today unless u get the e85 stuff. But still it would eat thru jb weld any different than than regular 87 octane if anything probably less

I fixed the carbon fiber radiator top on my Camaro with JB Weld and
some window screen. It lasted for years.

Bob F

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Dec 8, 2021, 8:42:13 PM12/8/21
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On 12/8/2021 8:31 AM, HowIronic wrote:
> I actually jb welded a spraying gas line, i sanded the area and dried it
> very well, globbed a bunch on in the evening and the next morning the
> problem was solved. It was on a 91 calais. Also like 15 to 20 years ago.
> But it was spraying out like crazy. And there is no real difference from
> gas 20 years ago than today unless u get the e85 stuff. But still it
> would eat thru jb weld any different than than regular 87 octane if
> anything probably less
>

I fixed a small leak in a Stihl chainsaw gas tank with JB weld 15 years
ago. Still working fine.

Clare Snyder

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Dec 9, 2021, 12:57:39 AM12/9/21
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On Wed, 8 Dec 2021 16:31:29 +0000, HowIronic
<ace936c6c4383981...@example.com> wrote:

>I actually jb welded a spraying gas line, i sanded the area and dried it very well, globbed a bunch on in the evening and the next morning the problem was solved. It was on a 91 calais. Also like 15 to 20 years ago. But it was spraying out like crazy. And there is no real difference from gas 20 years ago than today unless u get the e85 stuff. But still it would eat thru jb weld any different than than regular 87 octane if anything probably less
Fuel pressure ranges from about 35 to over 85PSI, but if it is the
return line you are looking at about 3. JB might workif you get it
PERFECTLY CLEAN first - on the return line and do not run ethanol
fuel. I would be wary of using it on the pressure line. Removing the
pump and brazing the line is a much better fix - and the tool to
remove the line is cheap and good to have for other fuel system
service. Buy it.

"back in the day" I temporarily fixed leaking gas tnaks with a bar of
soap. I dixed them with a sheet metal screw, washer, and leather
washer. I fixed them with "seal-all" and with Devcon Steel (an earlier
product similar to J-B Weld) as well as by soldering a penny over the
hole.

I've brazed cracked lines and even rusted lines (when no replacement
was available) and I've also soldered them - as well as removing the
bad line from the pump/fuel sender unit and soldering a new one in.

JB weld will stand up to pure gasoline but ethanol changes the
situation significantly. On the return line you MIGHT get away with
it. Or you might enf up re-doing the job in a couple weeks - and have
to deal with removing the JB weld at that time as you can't solder or
braze with JB in the patch.

Fix my van

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Jun 18, 2022, 4:31:52 PM6/18/22
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Very true . Did there use to be inspecters at automobile plants ? To be sure that the automobiles water safe for people . And now we have all makes & modes that have factory defects . Ford's fuel pump these is too small to carry the right amount of current voltage and it can catch on fire while driving and there's you and your family and the vehicle getting burned up that's just one of their factory defects . I think it's quite dangerous to have your family in the car with you .
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