How to use - Truss Nail Tooth Plate
marad...@unlisted.com
Plates"? Also called "truss mending plates".
If you dont know what I mean, there is a picture here:
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27-110-mending-plates/2-x-4-truss-nail-tooth-plate-22g-607781.aspx
In the past I always used the flat ones with a bunch of holes where
you got to pound in a bunch of roofing nails. I just decided to give
these a try. They are near impossible to attach by hand, at least
where they are not all beat up in the end from hammering on them.
What's the trick, or are they mainly made to be put on with a special
press or something? Considering how much trouble i had with these,
and the lousy looking job in the end, I'll stick to pounding in
roofing nails on the flat ones with the holes.
What's the trick????
Mark
Jordan
Both are stamped out of flat sheet steel.
One type is made so that the individual "nails" can be hammered in one
at a time.
The other, I can't see how to do it, except with a press tool - not handy!
The photo in your link doesn't show enough detail to identify which type.
marad...@unlisted.com
wrote:
>There are 2 types of these plates I've seen.
>Both are stamped out of flat sheet steel.
>One type is made so that the individual "nails" can be hammered in one
>at a time.
>The other, I can't see how to do it, except with a press tool - not handy!
>The photo in your link doesn't show enough detail to identify which type.
>
I am referring to the stamped ones with all the "nails" are part of
the original piece of metal. I agree, a press must be needed.
I cant get them on even close to straight with a hammer.
WConner
> I agree, a press must be needed. I cant get them on even close to
> straight with a hammer.
I had the same problem while helping someone else, finally used a cheap air
chisel with a sawed off bit to form an air hammer. It didn't look good but
did get them in pretty well intact by moving to different sections in
rotation.
Walt Conner
RicodJour
How about using two steel plates clamped on either side with C-clamps?
The plates would distribute the pressure evenly, keep the mending
plates flat, and with a couple or three middling to large C-clamps I'm
sure there would be no problem in driving the gang nails home.
You could probably try using just a piece of steel directly on the
mending plate and smack that with a lump hammer. Should work fine if
your framing can take the pounding.
R
Frank K.
wood to be on a flat solid surface like a driveway or garage
floor. If the plate is larger than the tamper, I used a 2 X
6 or larger on top of the plate.
Frank
<marad...@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
news:3vf6u1puuf3rcen87...@4ax.com...
RicodJour
This is from Simpson Strongtie's web site regarding their Mending
Plates (MP):
Versatile and easy-to-use mending plates for wood-to-wood connections.
No nails or notching of wood required. For non-structural applications
only; and not for truss applications.
Material: 20 gauge.
Finish: Galvanized
Installation:
* Place plate over two pieces of aligned wood with arrows aligned
at joint.
* Hammer the plate to embed the prongs.
And this from USP's web site regarding their equivalent product:
TPP - Prong plates with straight prongs.
PRPL - Prong plates with angled, hammer-in prongs.
Materials: See chart
Finish: G90 galvanizing
Installation:
· These products are not intended for structural use.
No load ratings are assigned. These plates are not
intended for use in truss assembly.
Makes you wonder what they _are_ intended to do.
R
marad...@unlisted.com
wrote:
The site I mentioned above says the same thing. They call them TRUSS
PLATES (Truss Nail Tooth Plates), then go on to say "These plates are
not intended for use in truss assembly."
DUH !!!!!
That's kind of like listing all the nutrients in a particular food
supplement and then saying "not intended for human or animal
consumption"
Actually, I'm lucky, I was not making a truss, just a frame for a barn
door, and the steel siding on the door pretty much keeps the door
together in the end, but something is needed to make the frame since
the 2x4's are used flat, so nailing is not a real option.
Aside from that, if they cant be used for trusses, they are pretty
useless.
There were some good suggestions on here for installing them, but
considering all the trouble, I think I'll use the nail on ones in the
future, It's not that much trouble to pound in a dozen or so 1"
roofing nails, and that way I know they are all into the wood, not
crushed underneath.
Those truss companies apparently have some huge presses because I have
tried to pull some broken trusses apart to salvage the 2x4's and found
there is no way to remove them. I finally just sawed the 2x4s ends
off and where those plates were in the middle of the 2x4, I just used
my angle grinder and cut off the excess metal past the edge of the
wood, and left the rest of the plate on the 2x4. Inside a wall, who
cares if they are there.
Thanks to all that replied.
Mark
BobK207
single corner of the TP.
They are installed via either LARGE "C-clamp" type device (air or
hydraulic) or run through a set of roller that mash the TP's into
place.
Very difficult to hammer into to place, can be done if you don't over
hammer any one spot on the TP. More hammer finese than I am capable
of.
cheers
Bob
MikeP
4ax.com>, marad...@UNLISTED.com says...
>
> Actually, I'm lucky, I was not making a truss, just a frame for a barn
> door, and the steel siding on the door pretty much keeps the door
> together in the end, but something is needed to make the frame since
> the 2x4's are used flat, so nailing is not a real option.
Toe nail the 2x4s
> Those truss companies apparently have some huge presses
Yes, they do.
HerHusband
> I was not making a truss, just a frame for a barn door
> something is needed to make the frame since the 2x4's
> are used flat, so nailing is not a real option.
Option 1: Pocket screws. With 2x4's, you could probably install pocket
screws from each side for additional strength.
Option 2: Drill holes and install long lag bolts through the edge of the
2x4 into the end of the other 2x4.
Option 3: Half Laps. Set your circular saw to half of the depth of the
2x4's, then make several cuts on the ends of each 2x4. Knock out the
pieces, clean it up with a chisel, overlap the two pieces (add glue if you
wish), then screw it together with several 1-1/4" screws.
Option 4: Temporarily toenail the 2x4's together, then nail on a sheet of
plywood to the inside of the door.
Option 5: Use 2x2's for either the vertical or horizontal members of the
frame, then use standard 3" deck screws. Or, just cut a notch in the end of
the 2x4's so only 1-1/2" or so overlaps the end of the other 2x4.
Good luck,
Anthony
Trussifier
There are mending plates and then there are truss plates. Mending plates are
not intended for structural use. Trusses are a structural use. Use the right
thing for the right job. Also it isn't hard to make a press for trusses if
you know how to weld. Just need metal, and a 50 ton bottle jack.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/how-to-use-truss-nail-tooth-plate-86770-.htm
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
> replying to RicodJour, Trussifier wrote:
> There are mending plates and then there are truss plates. Mending plates are
> not intended for structural use. Trusses are a structural use. Use the right
> thing for the right job. Also it isn't hard to make a press for trusses if
> you know how to weld. Just need metal, and a 50 ton bottle jack.
>
Or some kinda support for your nutsac...
DerbyDad03
> replying to RicodJour, Trussifier wrote:
> There are mending plates and then there are truss plates. Mending plates are
> not intended for structural use. Trusses are a structural use. Use the right
> thing for the right job. Also it isn't hard to make a press for trusses if
> you know how to weld. Just need metal, and a 50 ton bottle jack.
>
> --
gfre...@aol.com
2002 to make trusses for my shed have lived 15 years and 2 major
hurricanes later without even a hint of failure. I seated them with
the flat top of a 16 pound sledge hammer in the (concrete) driveway.
Uncle Monster
[8~{} Uncle Wooden Monster
Diesel
news:utR4B.71677$LJ4....@fx37.am4 Wed, 28 Jun 2017 17:14:02 GMT in
> replying to RicodJour, Trussifier wrote:
> There are mending plates and then there are truss plates. Mending
> plates are not intended for structural use. Trusses are a
> structural use. Use the right thing for the right job. Also it
> isn't hard to make a press for trusses if you know how to weld.
> Just need metal, and a 50 ton bottle jack.
>
mind you, but, I'd be real hesitant to claim I was a professional.
--
https://tekrider.net/pages/david-brooks-stalker.php
Any system that depends on reliability is unreliable.
Rob
Is it necessary to put mending plates on both sides of the trust?
gfre...@aol.com
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>Is it necessary to put mending plates on both sides of the trust?
(longer spikes)
If you only use one the joint will peel apart.
I have made trusses with mending plates and a sledge hammer but they
were pretty small (10' span) for a shed, not a house.