Replacing the cabinet would result in having to replace *all* of the
kitchen cabinets to match, so this isn't going to happen.
I was thinking I'd use a self-leveling compound and then lay vinyl
tiles over it. I could glue a piece of 1/8" plywood over the leveling
compound if there may be a problem with the vinyl tile adhesive
directly on the leveling compound.
Am I on the right track here? Any suggestions for a self-leveling
product (preferably non-cement based) I can get at Home Depot?
Cut out the particle board an inch away from each edge, leaving a nice
ledge for a new piece of plywood, fiberglass sheet or the material of
your choice and drop it in with a bit of water resistant glue. No
mess, no waiting, half hour done and gone.
Joe
> Cut out the particle board an inch away from each edge, leaving a nice
> ledge for a new piece of plywood, fiberglass sheet or the material of
> your choice and drop it in with a bit of water resistant glue. No
> mess, no waiting, half hour done and gone.
>
> Joe
If I go this route, why bother with the cutting?
There is a problem with this method. Due to the size of the cabinet
opening, I cannot fit the replacement piece into the cabinet as a solid
piece. I would have to split it across the short dimension. Doing this
leaves no support along the split. I might be able to put a 2x4
underneath along the split, but I won't know until I cut out what's
there and then it will be too late.
I'd rather try to work with what's there first.
1. Split the new piece
2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of
one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so.
3. Put in the piece from #3
4. Put in the other split piece. The batten will support it along the
split. Screw to it if you like.
--
dadiOH
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Yeah, I like this idea. I'll just stain the plywood and save myself the
trouble of laying tiles.
Thanks!
I agree, very simple.
> I'll just stain the plywood and save myself the trouble of laying tiles.
I'm less sure about the stain though. And I see a problem with
the original vinyl tile approach too -- dirt gets trapped in
the joint lines.
I picked up some scrap sheet vinyl flooring for a few bucks
and used that to line a couple of kitchen cupboards -- one
under the sink and the other under the stove (pan storage).
It worked great.
Oh, I also sealed the corners to prevent dirt becomming
trapped there, using clear silicone caulk.
--
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| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| ma...@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
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> 1. Split the new piece
>
> 2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of
> one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so.
>
> 3. Put in the piece from #3
>
> 4. Put in the other split piece. The batten will support it along the
> split. Screw to it if you like.
Ok, so this is the approach I used. Because I wanted to leave as much
of the original material as possible for support, I cut only a ~6" strip
out of the center of the existing wood to accommodate the batten. I
used 1x4 on the batten for the added support
I like the idea of the vinyl flooring, but I didn't have time to search
around for scrap pieces. I just stained the plywood to match the color
of the existing cabinets and called it a day.
I didn't glue the new piece in place. I wanted to be able to easily
remove the platform in case there's another leak or whatever other
reason I might have for needing to remove it. I cut it to pretty tight
tolerances and screwed both pieces to the batten so it's a snug fit and
won't move around.
Thanks for the suggestions!