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mailbox post: concrete or not?
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Fred
Aug 23, 2008, 2:12:33 PM8/23/08
to
I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower than
setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower than
setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
Steve Barker DLT
Aug 23, 2008, 2:36:52 PM8/23/08
to
Best to sit them on coarse gravel, then fill with coarse gravel up 4 or so
inches on the post, THEN concrete. That leaves the bottom open to drain.
inches on the post, THEN concrete. That leaves the bottom open to drain.
s
"Fred" <Fr...@notspam.not> wrote in message news:g8pjuk$m20$1...@aioe.org...
Don Phillipson
Aug 23, 2008, 2:28:35 PM8/23/08
to
"Fred" <Fr...@notspam.not> wrote in message news:g8pjuk$m20$1...@aioe.org...
> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
Embedding in concrete and dirt would be similar so far
as both will hold moisture close the timber, accelerating
rot. The post will last longer if set on large gravel or stones
that let moisture drain away from the timber.
You may wish to consider also local rain/snow/ice and
the time it takes to dig a large hole for drainage or a small
hole for the post alone.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
hal...@aol.com
Aug 23, 2008, 2:43:05 PM8/23/08
to
On Aug 23, 2:36�pm, "Steve Barker DLT"
<railphoto...@always.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Best to sit them on coarse gravel, then fill with coarse gravel up 4 or so
> inches on the post, THEN concrete. �That leaves the bottom open to drain.
>
> s
>
>
>
> "Fred" <F...@notspam.not> wrote in messagenews:g8pjuk$m20$1...@aioe.org...
> > I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
> > mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower
> > than
> > setting it in the dirt? Thanks.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
<railphoto...@always.hotmail.com> wrote:
> Best to sit them on coarse gravel, then fill with coarse gravel up 4 or so
> inches on the post, THEN concrete. �That leaves the bottom open to drain.
>
> s
>
>
>
> > I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
> > mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower
> > than
>
> - Show quoted text -
no concrete, if a concreted one gets bumped its near impossible to set
it straight, no concrete makes it easy.
I had a mailbox kids liked to take out:( replaced post with a heavy
steel I beam. later had to move it, no concrete made it much easier.
the kids respect that post, once they took out 20 or so but didnt
touch mine, it would of demolished their car.
the 4 by 4 is likely illegal too, but i got sick and tired of the
hassle, and no longer own the home
RickH
Aug 23, 2008, 2:57:45 PM8/23/08
to
IMO it really doesn't matter, someone will clip it with their truck
before it can ever rot anyway. A nice big boulder on the oncoming
traffic side will steer them away.
Fred
Aug 23, 2008, 4:17:48 PM8/23/08
to
whatever the road easement is called. Who's liable for damaging any vehicle?
We do have a wacky law situation in the US, after all.
Practical idea, though.
JIMMIE
Aug 23, 2008, 4:46:23 PM8/23/08
to
I found an old high pressure seam valve at an auction. It was made of
stainless
steel and had a big coil spring on the bottom. Cost me about $5.00
USD.
I set it in concrete up to the spring. The school bus has backed into
it several
time pushing it all the way back to the ground without harm. In 20
years everyone
else in the neighborhood has replaced theri's. People are still asking
me what the
heck is that thing.
Jimmie
aemeijers
Aug 23, 2008, 6:06:08 PM8/23/08
to
have tank traps for mailbox posts, in most areas they are illegal, with
varying levels of enforcement. (Usually after county plow guy runs over
it in winter, and they bill the homeowner for repairs.) Mine is about
due for replacement- I'll probably go with a pre-made breakaway post
that drops over a driven pipe. Not one of those fugly rubbermaids that
seems to be standard rural issue these days, tho. I'm in a quiet
subdivision, with no kid 'mailbox baseball' problems that I have noted
in 3 years. If I lived on a busy county 2-laner, I'd likely go with a
spring, or a cantilevered design on a break-away pivot, so if the plow
tags it, it just gets out of the way. I do note pipe or rebar 'halos' on
a lot of the farm mailboxes around here. I imagine that hurts like hell
if you swing a bat into one of those in the dark, but the mailbox stays
undented and on its mounting plate.
--
aem sends...
Message has been deleted
Message has been deleted
Red Green
Aug 23, 2008, 10:25:07 PM8/23/08
to
Fred <Fr...@notspam.not> wrote in news:g8pr9f$i2s$1...@aioe.org:
They need to prove it's YOUR rock and YOU put it there. Everyone knows
rocks just seem to grow overnight where they are unwanted. And if it is
public land then it's their rock on their land.
SteveB
Aug 24, 2008, 1:57:09 PM8/24/08
to
Build up around the top of the concrete so it doesn't puddle there. It will
last a long time.
last a long time.
SteveB
Aug 24, 2008, 11:36:15 PM8/24/08
to
"Fred" <Fr...@notspam.not> wrote in message news:g8pr9f$i2s$1...@aioe.org...
Okay, your story is this: God put the rock there. You had nothing to do
with it.
Steve ;-)
DerbyDad03
Aug 25, 2008, 10:51:47 AM8/25/08
to
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: I do note pipe or rebar 'halos' on a lot of the farm mailboxes
around here. I imagine that hurts like hell if you swing a bat into
one of those in the dark.
An option to the halo is this:
- Put a standard size mailbox inside one of those oversized "package"
mail boxes.
- Bolt the smaller one into the larger one so it stays centered
- Pour concrete around the smaller one to fill the gap.
- Mount it on the post and wait for someone to hit it with a bat at
30 mph.
DerbyDad03
Aug 25, 2008, 11:00:10 AM8/25/08
to
On Aug 23, 6:11 pm, Noahbuddy <nhb...@inner.space.org> wrote:
> Fred <F...@notspam.not> wrote innews:g8pjuk$m20$1...@aioe.org:
>
>
>
> You could get something called a Ground Screw. No dirt, no concrete.http://www.drpower.com
> Fred <F...@notspam.not> wrote innews:g8pjuk$m20$1...@aioe.org:
>
>
>
> You could get something called a Ground Screw. No dirt, no concrete.http://www.drpower.com
34" long would not be below our frost line, although I don't know if
that is required for mailboxes.
However, I love how the picture and description makes it sound/look so
easy.
What are the odds that the user will actually be able to screw the
device 34" into the ground both plumb and level *and* without hitting
a root/rock/pipe/etc?
At least with a post hole digger plumb and level is not an issue and I
can see into the hole to deal with any obstructions.
Who konws...it might work. Has anybody tried one?
Chuck Payne
Oct 21, 2013, 1:44:01 PM10/21/13
to
replying to Fred, Chuck Payne wrote:
I have set many mailbox posts in my 74 years. I have found that setting
in soil is about the same a setting in concrete - not satisfactory.
Both hold moisture to the post resulting in premature rot. Also, the post
will invariably loosen with use. You have seen mailbox posts tilting
forward, the box sagging at the front. Also, with concrete used to set the
post, replacing the post is a monumental pain in the behind.
What to use? Glad you asked. I recommend using stone ballast; that is,
NOT smooth, rounded gravel. Rather, use the gray stone that has sharp
edges. Stone size should be about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Why ballast
stone? because the sharp edges cause the stones to wedge together and
hold firmly, whereas rounded gravel like what you might put down for a
driveway or to top-dress a landscaping feature is like marbles - they roll
against each other and do not hold together.
Using stone allows the water to drain away from the post. It also allows
you to re-stabilize the post if it should become loose, simply by adding
and compacting a little more stone. I also recommend using landscaping
fabric to line the bottom and sides of the hole, so the stones do not
migrate through the soil and away from the post.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups
in soil is about the same a setting in concrete - not satisfactory.
Both hold moisture to the post resulting in premature rot. Also, the post
will invariably loosen with use. You have seen mailbox posts tilting
forward, the box sagging at the front. Also, with concrete used to set the
post, replacing the post is a monumental pain in the behind.
What to use? Glad you asked. I recommend using stone ballast; that is,
NOT smooth, rounded gravel. Rather, use the gray stone that has sharp
edges. Stone size should be about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Why ballast
stone? because the sharp edges cause the stones to wedge together and
hold firmly, whereas rounded gravel like what you might put down for a
driveway or to top-dress a landscaping feature is like marbles - they roll
against each other and do not hold together.
Using stone allows the water to drain away from the post. It also allows
you to re-stabilize the post if it should become loose, simply by adding
and compacting a little more stone. I also recommend using landscaping
fabric to line the bottom and sides of the hole, so the stones do not
migrate through the soil and away from the post.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups
Tony944
Oct 21, 2013, 2:33:44 PM10/21/13
to
"Chuck Payne" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote in
message news:7652a$526567e1$cf3aab60$30...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
> replying to Fred, Chuck Payne wrote:
>> Fred wrote:
>>
>> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure
>> treated
>> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower
>> than
>> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
>
>
Pressure treated post can last long time But? it needs to be weather treated
>> Fred wrote:
>>
>> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure
>> treated
>> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower
>> than
>> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
>
>
painted
every couple years in the summer when is totally dry so that post can absorb
liquid
and be well saturated. With out treatment 10-15 years??? pending what part
of country you in.
Bob F
Oct 21, 2013, 3:48:55 PM10/21/13
to
Tony944 wrote:
> "Chuck Payne" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com>
> wrote in message
> news:7652a$526567e1$cf3aab60$30...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
>> replying to Fred, Chuck Payne wrote:
>>> Fred wrote:
>>>
>>> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure
>>> treated
>>> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or
>>> slower than
>>> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
>>
>>
> Pressure treated post can last long time But? it needs to be weather
> treated painted
> every couple years in the summer when is totally dry so that post can
> absorb liquid
> and be well saturated. With out treatment 10-15 years??? pending what
> part of country you in.
Posts here invariably rot just below the ground. Paint on the visable post is
> "Chuck Payne" <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com>
> wrote in message
> news:7652a$526567e1$cf3aab60$30...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
>> replying to Fred, Chuck Payne wrote:
>>> Fred wrote:
>>>
>>> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure
>>> treated
>>> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or
>>> slower than
>>> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
>>
>>
> Pressure treated post can last long time But? it needs to be weather
> treated painted
> every couple years in the summer when is totally dry so that post can
> absorb liquid
> and be well saturated. With out treatment 10-15 years??? pending what
> part of country you in.
unlikely to affect that in any significant way.
Message has been deleted
Caulki...@work.com
Oct 21, 2013, 6:18:32 PM10/21/13
to
bills, I'd just stand it in a pail and hope the wind blows it away!!!
DerbyDad03
Oct 21, 2013, 6:57:40 PM10/21/13
to
<gfre...@aol.com> wrote:
> Just pack them in the dirt. It is a lot easier to get it out when it
> is time to replace it.
> I am about 50:50 on the replacements around here over the last 30
> years. Half get replaced as a maintenance issue of some sort, the
> other half are just mowed down by some moron in the middle of the
> night.
> If you want a post that will last forever, use a 6" PVC pipe full of
> concrete with rebar in it.
> I may do that myself next time. At least I will get a good look at who
> hit it while they are waiting for the tow truck.
> .
Beside the reinforced post, buy an oversize mailbox, center a normal
mailbox inside it and then pour concrete in the gap.
That will be a rude awakening for the next bat-welding moron that takes a
swat at it.
> is time to replace it.
> I am about 50:50 on the replacements around here over the last 30
> years. Half get replaced as a maintenance issue of some sort, the
> other half are just mowed down by some moron in the middle of the
> night.
> If you want a post that will last forever, use a 6" PVC pipe full of
> concrete with rebar in it.
> I may do that myself next time. At least I will get a good look at who
> hit it while they are waiting for the tow truck.
> .
Beside the reinforced post, buy an oversize mailbox, center a normal
mailbox inside it and then pour concrete in the gap.
That will be a rude awakening for the next bat-welding moron that takes a
swat at it.
k...@attt.bizz
Oct 21, 2013, 7:51:28 PM10/21/13
to
quite some time.
Message has been deleted
BillN
Dec 22, 2014, 11:44:05 PM12/22/14
to
replying to gfretwell , BillN wrote:
Putting in a new Cedar post. I like the idea someone mentioned about
putting stone ballast (pointy 1" to 2" stones) around the post, as these
will lock into place and stay relatively put over time (tamp them down as
you fill the hole). A big advantage of this is to allow drainage away
from the post (make sure to put 4" to 6" of ballast under the post bottom
as well). So that's a good reason not to use cement, which will stay
moist over time and promote rot. No matter what, a wood post will
eventually rot, so having to dig out a cement plug each time is going to
be way more difficult than just pulling the post from the stones and then
scooping them out.
Make sure to use Coppercoat for the underground portion of a wood post,
especially a Cedar one. Place the post in a bucket and fill with
Coppercoat to soak the post bottom for hours (its weakest spot for rot).
For Cedar posts, apply Teak or Tung oil every few years for the above
ground part (just slop it on thick with a brush or cloth and let it soak
in), maintaining a nice look as well as preventing rot. Pressure treated
wood will likely last longer than untreated Cedar, but it will need to be
treated regularly as well to prevent cracking and warping (and moss
buildup in damp locations). Personally, my wife and I like the look of
Teak oiled Cedar better than pressure treated wood, so hopefully doing all
of these things will give us a Cedar post that lasts a decade or so.
--
Putting in a new Cedar post. I like the idea someone mentioned about
putting stone ballast (pointy 1" to 2" stones) around the post, as these
will lock into place and stay relatively put over time (tamp them down as
you fill the hole). A big advantage of this is to allow drainage away
from the post (make sure to put 4" to 6" of ballast under the post bottom
as well). So that's a good reason not to use cement, which will stay
moist over time and promote rot. No matter what, a wood post will
eventually rot, so having to dig out a cement plug each time is going to
be way more difficult than just pulling the post from the stones and then
scooping them out.
Make sure to use Coppercoat for the underground portion of a wood post,
especially a Cedar one. Place the post in a bucket and fill with
Coppercoat to soak the post bottom for hours (its weakest spot for rot).
For Cedar posts, apply Teak or Tung oil every few years for the above
ground part (just slop it on thick with a brush or cloth and let it soak
in), maintaining a nice look as well as preventing rot. Pressure treated
wood will likely last longer than untreated Cedar, but it will need to be
treated regularly as well to prevent cracking and warping (and moss
buildup in damp locations). Personally, my wife and I like the look of
Teak oiled Cedar better than pressure treated wood, so hopefully doing all
of these things will give us a Cedar post that lasts a decade or so.
--
bob haller
Dec 23, 2014, 5:52:19 AM12/23/14
to
or whats now being used for deck footers. all conrete underground, with a heavy steel galvanized bracket attached to the top of the concrete post. wood post goes on top.
I got ticked at kids taking out my moms mailbox, so I replaced the light metal post with a heavy steel I beam, my best friend tried to get me to concrete it in I refused, and was glad later when that mailbox had to be relocated.
in any case I avoid concrete since if the post tilts, it can be straightened
O Wren
Dec 23, 2014, 8:24:15 AM12/23/14
to
On Saturday, August 23, 2008 2:12:33 PM UTC-4, Fred wrote:
> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower than
> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
Install one of these deck post sleeves in the ground.
> I've been reading contradictory advice on this. For a 4x4 pressure treated
> mailbox post, does setting it in concrete make it rot faster or slower than
> setting it in the dirt? Thanks.
http://smile.amazon.com/ChoiceDeck-Coastal-Redwood-Composite-Sleeve/dp/B00MLSVRRE
Then when a drunken speeding teenage texter drives over your mailbox, you can quickly and easily install a new one.
BillN
Dec 23, 2014, 2:44:05 PM12/23/14
to
replying to O Wren , BillN wrote:
Since my post above using gravel and Coppercoat, have rethought the whole
thing. What seems like the PERFECT solution is using the "SuperPost"
sleeves (available at Amazon or the company's removablepost.com website),
which are hard plastic sleeves that completely envelop the underground
portion of a wood post (including the bottom). These sleeves are
permanently set in the ground using either concrete or gravel, but the
wood post is REMOVABLE. To replace a damaged wood post, simply slide out
the old one and slide in the new. There is a square rubber gasket and
cover that goes around the post to provide a watertight seal, preventing
water from getting inside the sleeve (these slide up a new post during
installation, and then are slid back down to seal against the sleeve once
the post is set inside). So the entire underground portion of the wood
post remains dry and free from ground contact (the top of the sleeve comes
out of the ground a little, which is why the rubber gasket has a brown or
white decorative cover). These sleeves come in 18, 24, and 36 inch
lengths for 4 x 4 posts, and 36 inches for 5 x 5 (I think they are coming
out with 6 x 6 sleeves too).
Feel free then to use a nice Cedar post for a mailbox, which when Teak or
Tung oiled above ground (every few years) should last for a decade or two
(before putting it in the ground, oil the underground sleeved part along
with the rest, just cause it's easy then and will provide extra
protection). Even for untreated Cedar fence posts though, there should
not be any underground rotting.
--
Since my post above using gravel and Coppercoat, have rethought the whole
thing. What seems like the PERFECT solution is using the "SuperPost"
sleeves (available at Amazon or the company's removablepost.com website),
which are hard plastic sleeves that completely envelop the underground
portion of a wood post (including the bottom). These sleeves are
permanently set in the ground using either concrete or gravel, but the
wood post is REMOVABLE. To replace a damaged wood post, simply slide out
the old one and slide in the new. There is a square rubber gasket and
cover that goes around the post to provide a watertight seal, preventing
water from getting inside the sleeve (these slide up a new post during
installation, and then are slid back down to seal against the sleeve once
the post is set inside). So the entire underground portion of the wood
post remains dry and free from ground contact (the top of the sleeve comes
out of the ground a little, which is why the rubber gasket has a brown or
white decorative cover). These sleeves come in 18, 24, and 36 inch
lengths for 4 x 4 posts, and 36 inches for 5 x 5 (I think they are coming
out with 6 x 6 sleeves too).
Feel free then to use a nice Cedar post for a mailbox, which when Teak or
Tung oiled above ground (every few years) should last for a decade or two
(before putting it in the ground, oil the underground sleeved part along
with the rest, just cause it's easy then and will provide extra
protection). Even for untreated Cedar fence posts though, there should
not be any underground rotting.
--
bob haller
Dec 23, 2014, 3:14:27 PM12/23/14
to
you will still have to dig it up to make niceand srug
BillN
Dec 23, 2014, 6:44:05 PM12/23/14
to
replying to bob haller , BillN wrote:
sides, with the sleeve buried in cement, so it should hardly move at all.
For severe rigidity, self-adhesive spacer tape can easily be put on two
sides of the wood post (prior to oiling/treatment) to make it really snug.
Hallerb, this is the second time you have criticized my posts with poorly
thought out responses (this thread is about how to minimize rot when using
wood posts, not about using metal posts or illegal I-beams ). Do not
troll me again.
--
> hallerb wrote:
>
> sowhen someone even gently pushes on thepost, it will be not straight.
> you will still have to dig it up to make niceand srug
What are you talking about? The post fits against a 24 inch sleeve on all
>
> sowhen someone even gently pushes on thepost, it will be not straight.
> you will still have to dig it up to make niceand srug
sides, with the sleeve buried in cement, so it should hardly move at all.
For severe rigidity, self-adhesive spacer tape can easily be put on two
sides of the wood post (prior to oiling/treatment) to make it really snug.
Hallerb, this is the second time you have criticized my posts with poorly
thought out responses (this thread is about how to minimize rot when using
wood posts, not about using metal posts or illegal I-beams ). Do not
troll me again.
--
bob haller
Dec 23, 2014, 9:23:28 PM12/23/14
to
If its concreted in it will have to be completely dug up, removed then reinstalled and concreted again.
if its just placed in the ground and backfilled you can dig around it a bit, get it plumb, and backfill a fraction of the work.
ideally no one should use a wood post, since sooner or later it will rot.
now I have been posting here for perhaps 20 years, if you dont like my advice then ignore me or refute what I post. I REALLY DONT CARE!
The best advice I have got in many years was when purchasing my pole light. over 30 years ago, the salesman said dont conrete it in, so you can easily straihten it if needed......
well its been pushed over by a mailman falling on the sidewalk, been pushed at when a out of control car left he road and hit it, its had several unfortunate events, its gotten a few bumps but is very easy to make it straight again
BillN
Dec 24, 2014, 1:44:05 PM12/24/14
to
hard to ignore you, which I will certainly do in the future. Signing off.
--
bob haller
Dec 25, 2014, 3:04:13 PM12/25/14
to
> Advice is one thing, mindless criticism is another. That was why it was
> hard to ignore you, which I will certainly do in the future. Signing off.
>
> --
EverYmaN
Oct 17, 2016, 4:44:04 PM10/17/16
to
replying to Fred, EverYmaN wrote:
with pressure treated wood placing it in a concrete base will help to prevent
rot.. being pressure treated it is less porous on the sides but the top and
bottom will have been cut from a larger log and so will not have the pressure
treatment so it it wise to seal for longer life.. if you are using a soft or
more porous wood then it will LIKELY act as a pool and not allow local shrubs
to absorb the moisture like they do in soil
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
with pressure treated wood placing it in a concrete base will help to prevent
rot.. being pressure treated it is less porous on the sides but the top and
bottom will have been cut from a larger log and so will not have the pressure
treatment so it it wise to seal for longer life.. if you are using a soft or
more porous wood then it will LIKELY act as a pool and not allow local shrubs
to absorb the moisture like they do in soil
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
Dave
Jan 22, 2018, 12:14:06 AM1/22/18
to
replying to Chuck Payne, Dave wrote:
Hi Chuck,
Your suggestion to use ballast stone and landscaping fabric sounds great!
Would metal or pvc posts also work? Also, is the typical 24" depth adequate
in very sandy Florida soil? Thank You very much.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
Hi Chuck,
Your suggestion to use ballast stone and landscaping fabric sounds great!
Would metal or pvc posts also work? Also, is the typical 24" depth adequate
in very sandy Florida soil? Thank You very much.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
gfre...@aol.com
Jan 22, 2018, 1:03:14 AM1/22/18
to
On Mon, 22 Jan 2018 05:14:02 GMT, Dave
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Chuck Payne, Dave wrote:
>Hi Chuck,
>Your suggestion to use ballast stone and landscaping fabric sounds great!
>Would metal or pvc posts also work? Also, is the typical 24" depth adequate
>in very sandy Florida soil? Thank You very much.
If you tamp that sand in as you backfill, it will be plenty without
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Chuck Payne, Dave wrote:
>Hi Chuck,
>Your suggestion to use ballast stone and landscaping fabric sounds great!
>Would metal or pvc posts also work? Also, is the typical 24" depth adequate
>in very sandy Florida soil? Thank You very much.
anything else. (assuming you are not right on the beach)
Dave
Jan 22, 2018, 8:44:07 AM1/22/18
to
replying to Chuck Payne, Dave wrote:
Hi Chuck,
Your suggestion to use ballast stone with landscaping fabric sounds great!
Hi Chuck,
I will be using a 4x4 vinyl fence post filled with sand. Is the typical 24"
depth adequate in the very sandy Florida soil? Thank you very much for
sharing your experience and insight.
Dave
deputydogjak
Jul 20, 2022, 12:01:39 PM7/20/22
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Can you set the post in all rocks instead of concrete and/ or dirt?
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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mailbox-post-concrete-or-not-326841-.htm
Marilyn Manson
Jul 20, 2022, 4:57:19 PM7/20/22
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On Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 12:01:39 PM UTC-4, deputydogjak wrote:
> Can you set the post in all rocks instead of concrete and/ or dirt?
>
See here:
> Can you set the post in all rocks instead of concrete and/ or dirt?
>
https://www.usps.com/manage/mailboxes.htm
There are guidelines for "Where to Place the Mailbox" and "Installing the Mailbox Post".
Concrete is frowned upon.
Frank
Jul 21, 2022, 12:50:16 PM7/21/22
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mailbox that appears to have been whacked several times by the mail
trucks rear view mirror.
I had to concrete my post as it would have taken a jack hammer with rock
about a foot down. It is not located where someone might hit it but a
neighbor has one on a curve where it has been hit and has it hinged so
post will not break.
Marilyn Manson
Jul 22, 2022, 4:02:19 PM7/22/22
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I recently tried the following product for a couple of posts for a gate that we
put in an asphalt driveway. I've done lots of posts in concrete, and the guy I
was working with does concrete for a living, so it's not like we were "afraid"
of using concrete, we just wanted to try this product. It's for a family member,
so if it fails, we'll just fix it. It's been 9 months and the gate gets used multiple
times every day. So far so good. We'll see how long it lasts.
Expensive, but it cures in minutes.
<https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-33-fl-oz-Sika-PostFix-Fence-Post-Mix-Mix-In-The-Bag-Expanding-Foam-for-Supporting-Non-Structural-Posts-Mailbox-Sign-7116170/300934597>
After it cured, but before we trimmed it.
https://i.imgur.com/HloTLRZ.jpg
Frank
Jul 22, 2022, 7:14:46 PM7/22/22
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uniformly but works and is cheap and quick.
My post had bottomed out at about a foot and a half and I would have
needed and extension to keep it up with just dirt. As mentioned, rock
next to my road is solid. Even a heavy chisel like bar hardly dented it.
I pointed out house in back for sale was built by stone mason contractor
with rock dug for foundation.
MAGA
Jul 22, 2022, 10:20:05 PM7/22/22
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On 7/20/2022 12:01:33 PM, deputydogjak wrote:
> Can you set the post in all rocks instead of concrete and/ or dirt?
>
I dug a 12" hole x 36" deep, dropped a 4" vinyl deck post sleeve into the hole, plumbed the sleeve vertical and poured concrete around it.
> Can you set the post in all rocks instead of concrete and/ or dirt?
>
Now, whenever some filthy drunken democrat ( like Paul Pelosi ) runs off the road and takes out my mailbox, all I have to do is pull the broken post out of the sleeve and drop the new post in. Easy-peasy.
Bob F
Jul 22, 2022, 10:25:25 PM7/22/22
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Marilyn Manson
Jul 23, 2022, 8:56:21 AM7/23/22
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It's a sickness, you know.
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