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Adding wood fence to chain link fence

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remote control mind

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Jul 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/3/00
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I have an existing chain link fence. I could not help but wonder if it
would be possible to "attach" a wooden fence to it.

It seems like it is doable, but I have never seen it done before. I am sure
that I cannot directly attach wood to the weave chain (for a lack of better
word). However, I would think it could be possible to add and drill wood to
the post. I figured it could be possible to span horizontal wood first from
post to post. Then add the vertical wood fence picks to the horizontal
wood. Sounds reasonable?

It will look nice on one side, but on the other side (which will face the
neighboor) won't look exactly attractive.

-cb

renov8r

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Jul 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/3/00
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It would look hellish. The chain link "fabric" would collect
dirt, leaves, bugs et cetera. The wood would get beat up by the
metal and be impossible to maintain.

If you are lazy and the posts for the chain link fence are in
good shape you can use the posts to attach wood posts. Then
"build" the wood fence in the normal manner. This will require
getting rid of the cahin link "fabric" and should be OK (but
still look a little "junk yard"-ish). There are brackets
available to do just this. They go around the poles and screw
into the wood posts. If your neighbor does not know hate you,
they soon will...

Good Luck!


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Sandra P. Hoffman

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Jul 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/3/00
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On Mon, 03 Jul 2000 12:11:41 -0700, renov8r
<renov8r...@my-deja.com.invalid> wrote:

>
>If you are lazy and the posts for the chain link fence are in
>good shape you can use the posts to attach wood posts. Then
>"build" the wood fence in the normal manner. This will require
>getting rid of the cahin link "fabric" and should be OK (but
>still look a little "junk yard"-ish). There are brackets
>available to do just this. They go around the poles and screw
>into the wood posts. If your neighbor does not know hate you,
>they soon will...

I've been thinking of doing something like this. The view from the
neighbours would be covered most of the year by lilacs, some kind of
shrub cherry, and a crab apple tree, all currently growing up along,
in between and through the two existing fences. The current fences are
about 1' apart. Theirs is a low, ugly cheap looking wood fence.
Uprights with white boards woven horizontally along the line. Ours is
a chain link. The previous owners (we bought the house in May) were
very neglectful about keeping the shrubs, that started out on the
neighbours side but are now pretty much held in common, from growing
through the links of the chain link. We just unwound the chain link
from a branch that represented one third of the crown of the crab
apple. Another season and the chain link wire would have been buried
in the branch. That situation has also knocked the top horizontal pipe
off the end pole of the chain link fence.

I like the crab apple tree, I like the shrubs. I don't like the chain
link, but need to keep the dog in the backyard, and the value of the
house increases with a fence there. The posts for the chain link are
in good shape and I have been wondering if it is possible to attach
some kind of wood fence to the chain link poles after removing the
chain link. Are the brackets mentioned up above reasonably widely
available. There's a home depot nearby, if I go in and describe what I
want will I get blank stares? Has anyone around here done this, and
did they work well?

sph


remote control mind

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Jul 3, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/3/00
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In terms of aesthetic, I'll take your word for it. I don't want to upset
any neighbor by creating an ugly look. I don't think it will take a long
time to cut the chain fabric down anyhow. However, I really, really would
like to leave the metal post up and use a bracket to hold up the horizontal
wood frame. Two reasons for this: 1) Stability. I would think (I am not
100% sure), the wooden fence with metal post would stand up longer than if I
had used a wooden post. 2) It wood take much longer to dig a hole for each
wooden fence and it would cost extra money to buy post and digging tools.

Perhaps it would help, aesthetically, if I paint the metal post to a dark
green color. I'll think about it.

Thanks for your opinion.

-cb

"renov8r" <renov8r...@my-deja.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:13615675...@usw-ex0105-040.remarq.com...


> It would look hellish. The chain link "fabric" would collect
> dirt, leaves, bugs et cetera. The wood would get beat up by the
> metal and be impossible to maintain.
>

> If you are lazy and the posts for the chain link fence are in
> good shape you can use the posts to attach wood posts. Then
> "build" the wood fence in the normal manner. This will require
> getting rid of the cahin link "fabric" and should be OK (but
> still look a little "junk yard"-ish). There are brackets
> available to do just this. They go around the poles and screw
> into the wood posts. If your neighbor does not know hate you,
> they soon will...
>

Sirs39

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
to
>In terms of aesthetic, I'll take your word for it. I don't want to upset
>any neighbor by creating an ugly look. I don't think it will take a long
>time to cut the chain fabric down anyhow. However, I really, really would
>like to leave the metal post up and use a bracket to hold up the horizontal

I did this with a thirty foot section along my driveway, and it worked out
great. I took off the chain fabric, intending to remove the metal
posts.....yeah right! Thses things will NEVER come out. So, off to HD, bought
some brackets (in the fencing dept.), etc......made very short work out of
installing a fence.
Remember to check your local code, but around here, the "ugly side"...i.e.fence
posts......have to stay on the inside, and the "good" side faces any
neighbor.That should solve a concern about angry neighbors. I spraypainted the
metal posts a dark almond color to match the wood, and plan to box them in with
wood in the future. (maybe......:)
J

remote control mind

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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Thanks for sharing your successful experience. But my jaw dropped when you
said the ugly side must face in. I just can't believe that quirky law. If
my neighbor and I wished for a wooden fence (assuming I didn't have any
fence and my neighbor didn't have one either), I would wait, wait, and wait
until the other neighbor caves in to shells the big bucks to install the
fence. Then I would see the aesthetic side for free. Why fork out the big
bucks, when I am forced to see the ugly side? I would rather let the
neighbor install the fence, while my wallet is still fat and plump. To
promote more private yards, the law should be abolished.

To push this quirky law further, could the post fence be considered
subjective? Some people might prefer to see the strong structure post and
would consider that the better side. You could use that argument, I guess.
That is really crazy and I wonder when the law was enforced? Or is it an
overly-strict homeowner association group thing?

One more question, how high is your metal post? Mine is about 50 inches
(4ft 2in) high.


-cb
======================

"Sirs39" <sir...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000704063838...@ng-fj1.aol.com...

Jeff Cochran

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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>Thanks for sharing your successful experience. But my jaw dropped when you
>said the ugly side must face in. I just can't believe that quirky law.

Most codes state that the finished side of a fence has to face out.
Better check your local jurisdiction to be sure, tearing out a fence
is a pain in the patootie...

Jeff

Rick Matthews

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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Jeff Cochran <jcoc...@gate.net> wrote:

>Most codes state that the finished side of a fence has to face out.

Do you really believe that "most codes" agree on something?

--
Thought for the day:
<http://mysite.directlink.net/matthews/smiles/started.htm>

suenoir

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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Around here, most people build "good neighbor" fences, that look good,
or the same, on both sides. One way to do this is put boards on
alternate sides so the rail is in the middle. The horizontal weave is
another that looks the same on both sides.


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Before you buy.

Daniel Hicks

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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Rick Matthews wrote:
>
> Jeff Cochran <jcoc...@gate.net> wrote:
>
> >Most codes state that the finished side of a fence has to face out.
>
> Do you really believe that "most codes" agree on something?

When it comes to fences, about the only thing you can say is that "most
codes" will disagree. Eg, in some parts of the country you must either
set the fence back or get agreement from the other property owner. In
other parts of the country you can erect the fence on the line, then
send the other property owner a bill for his half.

TakeThisOut

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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In article <8F6795F73K5W...@63.211.125.91>, K5...@SpamCop.net (Rick
Matthews) writes:

>Jeff Cochran <jcoc...@gate.net> wrote:
>
>>Most codes state that the finished side of a fence has to face out.
>
>Do you really believe that "most codes" agree on something?
>

Consult you local building department. In my township, there is no such
requirement, despite what my neighbors think.
.
.
.
.

8 tickets from Miami to Washington DC- $4000.00
Minivan rental- $600.00
Turned away at gate- PRICELESS!

Visa, it's everywhere you want to be, but can't get into.

Steve Manes

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Jul 4, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/4/00
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On Mon, 03 Jul 2000 12:11:41 -0700, renov8r
<renov8r...@my-deja.com.invalid> wrote:
>If you are lazy and the posts for the chain link fence are in
>good shape you can use the posts to attach wood posts.

The alternative is to build a box around the steel post... essentially
a faux post. After removing the chain link,construct a post out of
1x4s, or whatever width lumber is needed for the box to slide over the
steel post with enough room to insert shims. Drill some holes through
the box (in perpendicular planes), transfer the holes to the steel
post and drill them out too. Then slide the box over the pole, plumb
it and fasten it with galvanized carriage bolts. Then build your
fence as usual. This might actually look better than a conventional
4x4 post, and it will save you having to sawzall off the old fence
posts and dig new post holes.

This is what I'm thinking about doing with my old chain link fence,
mainly because I don't want to dig new postholes, especially next to
an old rock retaining wall on the property line. The main concern is
making sure the old steel posts were have enough of an anchorage to
support the greater weight of a wood fence.


Sirs39

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Jul 5, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/5/00
to
>
>Thanks for sharing your successful experience. But my jaw dropped when you
>said the ugly side must face in. I just can't believe that quirky law. If
>my neighbor and I wished for a wooden fence (assuming I didn't have any
>fence and my neighbor didn't have one either), I would wait, wait, and wait
>until the other neighbor caves in to shells the big bucks to install the
>fence.>>

Always an option! But if you want a fence soon.....:)

<< Then I would see the aesthetic side for free. Why fork out the big
>bucks, when I am forced to see the ugly side? I would rather let the
>neighbor install the fence, while my wallet is still fat and plump. To
>promote more private yards, the law should be abolished.
>To push this quirky law further, could the post fence be considered
>subjective? Some people might prefer to see the strong structure post and
>would consider that the better side. You could use that argument, I guess.>>

It's not subjective here. Fence post are required to be facing the person who
builds the fence, period. The code takes into account future neighbors: if your
neighbor sells and the new ones don't want to see posts, you get to remove them
and start over! Big time yuck.....


>That is really crazy and I wonder when the law was enforced? Or is it an
>overly-strict homeowner association group thing?
>

Nope, I'm not in an association, just a regular suburban neighborhood. The code
here is on the local level, but it may be based on a state code, too. Not sure.
And it's enforced, since a prermit is required to build a fence (unless you are
replacing an existing fence: either way the code enforcement guy has to take a
look first, then inspect the end results.AND, if the fence may someday enclose
a yard that contains a pool, the top of the fence must be able to hold up 150
pounds without bending/breaking, hence, no wire fences for pool enclosures.

>One more question, how high is your metal post? Mine is about 50 inches
>(4ft 2in) high.

My metal posts are about 48 inches tall, which just caught the top rail of the
fence sections.
It is absolutly rock solid, too. So much easier than screwing around replacing
them with 4x4's.
J

Rick Matthews

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Jul 5, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/5/00
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remote control mind <nos...@nospam.com> wrote:

>I just can't believe that quirky law. To promote more private yards,

>the law should be abolished.
>

If you are planning to build a fence, please consult the local codes to
determine the requirements in your area.

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Jeff Cochran

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Jul 5, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/5/00
to
>>Most codes state that the finished side of a fence has to face out.
>
>Do you really believe that "most codes" agree on something?

Actually, most jurisdictions are pretty darned close. For basic
building codes they're even closer. For fence codes, they often vary
by jurisdiction and local custom, but in nine that I know of they all
specify the good side out. Of course, all nine have different height
and setback limitations... :)

Jeff

Rick Matthews

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Jul 6, 2000, 3:00:00 AM7/6/00
to
Jeff Cochran <jcoc...@gate.net> wrote:

>Actually, most jurisdictions are pretty darned close. For basic
>building codes they're even closer. For fence codes, they often vary
>by jurisdiction and local custom, but in nine that I know of they all
>specify the good side out. Of course, all nine have different height
>and setback limitations... :)
>

In Plano, Texas you are only required to have the "good side out" if
that section of the fence faces the street. So unless you live on a
corner lot, the front-facing section of fence in your side yard is the
only section that must be good side out.

Well, 9 out of 10 still isn't bad.

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