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Underground lawn sprinkler problem - surging
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Rebel1
Sep 17, 2013, 1:46:12 PM9/17/13
to
My system has five zones. When I turned the system on today, the first
zone worked okay for maybe 30-60 seconds, then all five heads started
pulsating up and down, about 5-10 seconds per cycle and the "throw" of
the water was shorter than normal. I walked back toward the manifold
valve housing and could hear the surging all along the lines, which are
about 10" below ground. No bubbling at the surface to indicate a leak
below. The other four zones work okay.
I haven't made any recent repairs (replacing a cracked pipe or pop-up
head) involving that zone, which has been okay for the season.
It seems to be an air-in-the-pipes problem. I don't know how the air got
there, or why the problem just occurred. I guess I should remove one or
two of the most distant heads to try to "flush" the air out. The most
distant heads also happen to be at the lowest elevation. The lawn slopes
down maybe 1.5 feet between the front of the house, which is where zone
1 is, and the 75 feet to the sidewalk.
Total pipe length from shutoff valve to closest head in Zone 1 is about
100 feet, and to the most distant one about 150 feet.
It's an old installation, at least 13 year old. And over the years, I
have replaced many heads and sections of pipe (3/4" PVC).
Thanks for your suggestions.
R1
zone worked okay for maybe 30-60 seconds, then all five heads started
pulsating up and down, about 5-10 seconds per cycle and the "throw" of
the water was shorter than normal. I walked back toward the manifold
valve housing and could hear the surging all along the lines, which are
about 10" below ground. No bubbling at the surface to indicate a leak
below. The other four zones work okay.
I haven't made any recent repairs (replacing a cracked pipe or pop-up
head) involving that zone, which has been okay for the season.
It seems to be an air-in-the-pipes problem. I don't know how the air got
there, or why the problem just occurred. I guess I should remove one or
two of the most distant heads to try to "flush" the air out. The most
distant heads also happen to be at the lowest elevation. The lawn slopes
down maybe 1.5 feet between the front of the house, which is where zone
1 is, and the 75 feet to the sidewalk.
Total pipe length from shutoff valve to closest head in Zone 1 is about
100 feet, and to the most distant one about 150 feet.
It's an old installation, at least 13 year old. And over the years, I
have replaced many heads and sections of pipe (3/4" PVC).
Thanks for your suggestions.
R1
Oren
Sep 17, 2013, 2:03:37 PM9/17/13
to
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 13:46:12 -0400, Rebel1 <Reb...@optonline.net>
wrote:
Couple of thoughts. Given the age, perhaps the control valve has a
weak or a damaged rubber diaphragm, or it could be sticking. You
might clean the control valve to ensure there is no sand or pebbles
inside and examine the diaphragm for damage / pliability. They do
become weak in time. YMMV
wrote:
weak or a damaged rubber diaphragm, or it could be sticking. You
might clean the control valve to ensure there is no sand or pebbles
inside and examine the diaphragm for damage / pliability. They do
become weak in time. YMMV
Tony Hwang
Sep 17, 2013, 2:12:42 PM9/17/13
to
I'd switch lead going to control valve like between zone 1 and 3.
Then you can narrow down the trouble.
Oren
Sep 17, 2013, 2:17:49 PM9/17/13
to
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 12:12:42 -0600, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
wrote:
>>> Thanks for your suggestions.
>>>
>>> R1
>>
>> Couple of thoughts. Given the age, perhaps the control valve has a
>> weak or a damaged rubber diaphragm, or it could be sticking. You
>> might clean the control valve to ensure there is no sand or pebbles
>> inside and examine the diaphragm for damage / pliability. They do
>> become weak in time. YMMV
>>
>Hi,
>I'd switch lead going to control valve like between zone 1 and 3.
>Then you can narrow down the trouble.
Good idea, even simpler. And check the wires for corrosion..
wrote:
>>> Thanks for your suggestions.
>>>
>>> R1
>>
>> Couple of thoughts. Given the age, perhaps the control valve has a
>> weak or a damaged rubber diaphragm, or it could be sticking. You
>> might clean the control valve to ensure there is no sand or pebbles
>> inside and examine the diaphragm for damage / pliability. They do
>> become weak in time. YMMV
>>
>Hi,
>I'd switch lead going to control valve like between zone 1 and 3.
>Then you can narrow down the trouble.
Rebel1
Sep 17, 2013, 3:39:17 PM9/17/13
to
Here it is less that two hours later. I forgot to turn the controller to
its Off position, so the timed program started again, Zone 1 first. No
surging this time.
In case it happens again, I'll swap zone wires as suggested. Nice tip.
Thanks,
R1
its Off position, so the timed program started again, Zone 1 first. No
surging this time.
In case it happens again, I'll swap zone wires as suggested. Nice tip.
Thanks,
R1
Tony Hwang
Sep 17, 2013, 4:29:53 PM9/17/13
to
All my wire connections in the box are smeared with Silicon grease to
prevent corrosion.
Oren
Sep 17, 2013, 4:39:32 PM9/17/13
to
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 14:29:53 -0600, Tony Hwang <drag...@shaw.ca>
Yep. Fill the wire nut with Silicon grease once connected.
Dean Hoffman
Sep 17, 2013, 10:05:07 PM9/17/13
to
tra...@optonline.net
Sep 18, 2013, 8:48:22 AM9/18/13
to
for zone 1, by rotating it. That's how mine work. If the pulsing
stops, you know it's valve related, which would be my guess too.
I'd also forget about bleeding the air out. Any air is
just going to come out on it's own in the first minute or so.
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