Repair pipe where saddle valve used to be
Percival P. Cassidy
other for a filtered drinking water spigot. If I replace these by Tee
fittings (but not in the same locations), what's the best way to seal
the old holes?
Perce
Oren
Solder...
Percival P. Cassidy
>> I have two saddle valves on copper piping -- one for the fridge, the
>> other for a filtered drinking water spigot. If I replace these by Tee
>> fittings (but not in the same locations), what's the best way to seal
>> the old holes?
> Solder...
Just fill the holes with solder? I thought of that but wasn't sure it
would have enough mechanical strength on its own.
Perce
dpb
Quite common repair technique, actually.
If you're uncomfortable there are some sleeve clamps you can use but I
think they're generally overkill for the purpose.
http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/projects/how-to-fix-a-small-copper-pipe-leak-using-a-repair-clamp/
--
Jeff Wisnia
valve hole and rejoin them with a soldered on slip coupling. (The kind
of straight solder coupling which does not have a center stop ring so it
can be slid completely onto one pipe end and then pulled back onto the
other one.)
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
Wayne Whitney
> If you are leary about doing that you could cut the pipe at the saddle
> valve hole and rejoin them with a soldered on slip coupling. (The kind
> of straight solder coupling which does not have a center stop ring so it
> can be slid completely onto one pipe end and then pulled back onto the
> other one.)
This will work well as long as you have enough play in one side of the
pipe to deflect it away to slip the coupling on.
Otherwise, you'd need to make two cuts and use two couplings. Or if
the place where you are going to put in the tee is nearby, you could
just replace the section between the old saddle valve and the new tee.
Cheers, Wayne
tra...@optonline.net
I would think the difficult part about just using solder coulb be
getting the pipe clean. The saddle valves leave a slight depression
in the pipe. So running emery cloth or sandpaper over it to clean, it
could be harder to get the spot at hole cleaned off.
Oren
Heat the pipe and seal the two small holes you have from saddle
valves; needle/pin perforation into a copper pipe.
Not difficult, at all...
Mikepier
> Of course there is no reason you cant just leave the saddle valves on
> the pipes. Turn them off and forget about them.
Thats what I thought. Just leave the valves on and shut them. Why risk
making things into a project?
Limp Arbor
wrote:
Billy Mays here for Mighty Putty.
Mighty Putty can seal that hole.
There's nothing you can't do with Mighty Putty.
Any job, big or small, Mighty Putty repairs them all.
B.M.
Slightly Graying Wolf
That commercial always makes me chuckle. I love the red ceramic tile repair
on the web page, you can't even see where it was broken off any more.
LOL
George
If you are replacing them with tees wouldn't you need to cut and shorten
the tubing to fit the tee?
beecrofter
wrote:
Slice a repair coupling into two c shaped pieces, clean , flux and
solder over the holes.
Oren
OP never mentioned the copper pipe size. I've never seen a 1/4 inch
coupling for a copper line that size (ice maker line). Guessing the
holes are no bigger than a pencil lead. Solder them shut...
Don & Lucille
"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:05h0b4tbejgm9mtk0...@4ax.com...
beecrofter
> On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 08:38:44 -0700 (PDT), beecrofter
>
Usually a saddle tap pierces 1/2" copper supply line and feeds the
fridge via 1/4". Odds are the hole is in the 1/2" supply.
Have you ever seen a saddle tap to pierce 1/4" for anything other than
refrigerant?
Oren
<beecr...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Usually a saddle tap pierces 1/2" copper supply line and feeds the
>fridge via 1/4". Odds are the hole is in the 1/2" supply.
>Have you ever seen a saddle tap to pierce 1/4" for anything other than
>refrigerant?
Oops. I stand corrected. I have a valve that I never used from an ice
maker kit. It is for 1/2 inch pipe. Thanks.
Stormin Mormon
Remove the saddle valves, and use your tubing cutter to cut the copper tube
EXACTLY where the pinhole is.
Now, drain the water as best you can. Shake the copper tube, to shake out
the last of the water. Sweat on the T fittings where you just cut. Very
simple.
Since you are putting the T fittings in different places, go to your
plumbing suply and ask for "slip couplers" for that tubing size. You can
either cut the tubing, and repair with slip couplers. Or, you can saw the
slip couplers long wise. Sand the pipe and couplers, flux em up. Lay the
half-coupler over the hole. Heat, and solder. The half-coupler should patch
over the hole. Follow the same counsel, to shut off the water, drain the
pipes, etc.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Percival P. Cassidy" <nob...@notmyISP.net> wrote in message
news:3eCrk.11725$Is1....@newsfe04.iad...
Stormin Mormon
figure. Anyhow, water doesn't pierce 1/4 actual OD tubing. However, I have
seen sweat tee, or compression tee for 1/4 actual (which is called 1/8 water
copper).
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"beecrofter" <beecr...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0e25ab48-76ba-4d48...@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
George
So I am not the only one scratching his head about how repairing a hole
in a supply line from a tap became a repair of 1/4" tubing?
Sam
Use Flex Tape
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/repair-pipe-where-saddle-valve-used-to-be-326621-.htm
trader_4
DerbyDad03
> Use Flex Tape
Please step back from the keyboard.
gfre...@aol.com
run in a very short brass screw and solder it in.
If I could get to it easily I would cut it right at the hole and put a
sweat coupling in or a compression coupler if you can't get a torch in
there.
DerbyDad03
gfre...@aol.com
compression ring over an O ring.
DerbyDad03
in my house for many years. I have Sharkbites that are at street pressure, connecting
copper to PEX. 10 years, maybe a bit more. Never a problem.
Without a doubt they are easier to install in a cramped location than both sweated and
compression fittings. I've got nothing against compression fittings, but I also have complete
trust in SharkBite fittings.
Ed Pawlowski
>>
>> Everyone seems to be in love with Sharkbites but I think I trust a
>> compression ring over an O ring.
>
> In my case it's not "love", it's experience and convenience. I've had both types of fittings
> in my house for many years. I have Sharkbites that are at street pressure, connecting
> copper to PEX. 10 years, maybe a bit more. Never a problem.
>
> Without a doubt they are easier to install in a cramped location than both sweated and
> compression fittings. I've got nothing against compression fittings, but I also have complete
> trust in SharkBite fittings.
>
a PITA spot to get to, of course. Put in a Sharkbite and no problems so
far for 4 years.
Possible i just had the one in a million bad compression fittings but
I'm not going to try another.
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
DerbyDad03
and hadn't tried sweating copper yet. Most of the sinks didn't have individual
shut-offs so I installed compression shut-offs. (SharkBites weren't available
yet.) I replaced most of the compression shut-offs with sweated shut-offs
during renovations, but a few still remain.
For years I had street pressure for the front hose bib but reduced house
pressure in the back yard. The street pressure pipe was in a location
where it would have been tough to sweat a T into. In addition, running
copper from the front of the house to the rear - over the duct work - would
have been a real PITA. Lots of short pieces, sweating (or compression)
in the joist bays, etc.
Then I heard about SharkBites. One T at the front of the house, a single
length of PEX over the duct work, and a SharkBite elbow to transition back
to copper at the back of the house. That was the end of wimpy watering for
SWMBO's multiple gardens.
As I said, >10 years at street pressure with no problems.