Is it hard or soft copper pipe?
TDD
> Zootal <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in
> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131:
>
>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
>> failure?
>
> 247 degrees.
Nah, you're all mixed up; that's the maximum *temperature* of water you
can run through the pipes.
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
"Zootal" <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131...
> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
> failure?
More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
failure.
Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Zootal" <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131...
> On 2/10/2010 12:24 AM Stepfann King spake thus:
>
>> Zootal <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in
>> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131:
>>
>>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
>>> future failure?
>>
>> 247 degrees.
>
> Nah, you're all mixed up; that's the maximum *temperature* of water
> you can run through the pipes.
Better keep it pressurized. Under "normal" conditions water at 247F (or C,
or even R) would be steam.
Ever had a good steam burn?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Oh man, does that mean I need to unwind my coils?
Mike :-)
Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?
Maybe it was a rhetorical question?
<smirk>
I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.
TDD
*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer plumber who mostly
bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me that there is one
grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all plumbing supply's
carried it. He also had the proper benders for copper pipe. I don't
remember what the pipe was called.
Kids today, pfft. When I was a boy, we didn't have hot water, so we had to
bathe with the end of a steam nozzle me old man diverted from the boiler.
Sure it'd turn you red and remove some skin, but you sure did get clean!
Jon
One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"The Daring Dufas" <the-dari...@peckerhead.net> wrote
in message news:hku9sm$95u$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
K with you?
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"John Grabowski" <jgra...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4b72b2bb$0$22519$607e...@cv.net...
K, L and M are wall thickness grades (like sch. 80, 40, 20) and have
nothing to do with hardness. Both soft copper and hard copper are
available in the different grades.
Refrigeration grade tubing is yet another thing, and mostly refers to
the fact that the tubing has been cleaned and capped to keep out
contamination that could damage refrigeration equipment with small
orifices, etc. Plumbing grade tubing isn't cleaned and capped since
water pipes can be readily flushed of impurities. Refrigeration grade
tubing is also specified by it's outside diameter vs. plumbing which is
specified by nominal ID.
If bending is that much of a concern, why not just use PEX? You'll get
the job done in less time, too.
Joe
You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to post
something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There are
lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that they do it right,
but when you get to really talking to them about it, you realize that they
are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble gum repairmen who don't even know
how to properly bend a copper tube.
It may also be added that tubing bending can be improved by the use of
filler sand and pressurization to keep the outer walls pushing out. Of
course, this is only offered in the advance copper tubing bending course. I
would suggest to the OP and whoever else wants to bend copper to invest in a
good bender, or pick one up used whenever they see one. Or even make a
simple one. It makes for a much better job, and reduces failure rates.
Definitely not for the baling wire and bubble gum brigade.
Steve
Stormin Mormon wrote:
> Most likely "K copper".
>
> K with you?
>
>
You can bend soft copper as long as it doesn't kink. It is not code to heat hard
copper to get it to bend, as I understand it, and it won't bend well without
that.
How do you know it was correct? The OP omitted any details such as if
soft or hard copper tube was being used.
>> One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.
>
>You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to post
>something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There are
>lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that they do it right,
>but when you get to really talking to them about it, you realize that they
>are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble gum repairmen who don't even know
>how to properly bend a copper tube.
Well put.
None of us realize the truth: there is no copper pipe...
Is there a "proper" bender for copper pipe? I have a bender made for 3/4
conduit, can that be used to bend copper?
> In article <Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131>,
There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a 10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know what is
"too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135 degree "elbows"
(what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to make the necessary
bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to do that instead of stressing
the pipe.
I'm using thicker stuff that is "approved" for being used behind walls, I
forget the letter designation that goes with it.
My bender is for 3/4 conduit - can that be used with 3/4 and 1/2 copper?
In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet). I see no reason not to run a set of hot/cold 3/4 pipes
up through the floor (two pipes going up, not five) and then tee off as
needed once I get where I'm going. Simpler, cleaner, uses less pipe.
Sharkbites cost WAY too much, so much that they offset the high cost of the
copper, and I don't know of any other way to make the connections (IANAP).
I don't trust them not to leak at some time in the future. I'm old
fashioned and want metal - solid metal - in my walls. Something soldered
together that will outlast the life of this old house :-)
> Zootal <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in
> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131:
>
>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
>> failure?
>>
>
> 247 degrees.
What radius?
Naawww...this newsgroups is awesome. It is easily one of the
most polite and informative groups out there. Drop in on some
of the alt.windows... groups. It is amazing how many
adolescent children with absolutely no control over their
mouths are ranting and raving over usenet. I used to think
that I'd slap my kids silly if I caught them behaving like
that. Now it's more like I'd shoot my kids if I saw them
behaving like that...
> None of us realize the truth: there is no copper pipe...
You'd call it "tube"? That's semantics, but it may be officially true.
> my girls
> complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
> flushes the toilet
We got that fixed with a Delta faucet that automagically adjusts the hot &
cold flows if the pressure changes. Look into that, or change the supply
lines to the toilet to 1/8" ID <grin>.
I do more HVAC and refrigeration work than plumbing so the pipe I
have on hand is refrigeration tubing. In order to get me to do any
plumbing work, you have to point a gun at me or torture me by the
crinkling a stack of hundred dollar bills in front of me ploy.
TDD
Let me say that I do not know. I cannot give you a definite answer, but the
variables are: diameter of the tubing; copper alloy you want to bend; if
you fill the copper with sand or not; if you pressurize it or not;
temperature of the copper; type of bender; whether it is a plain one die
bender or one with a mandrel (two piece); how fast you make the bend; and a
couple of other things.
I'd Google and get some copper suppliers and people who really do this a
lot, and use their answers.
For most home repair apps, a simple bender is better than no bender. But
the technique will affect the results greatly.
Lastly, how critical of an application is this? IIRC, you did say it was
for 60 # water line. Make your radii as big as you can, even if it means
adjusting elsewhere for the bend. If you just really have to have a tight
90, buy a compression fitting or sweat a 90 on there.
Get some scrap and play with it. Realize the scrap may not have the same
properties as new, but it will give you an idea about the failure points.
I'd do it in a warm room, and not a cold garage, or outside in the snow.
Use a heat lamp or similar to warm the copper before bending.
HTH
Steve
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Did you even consider using PEX tubing for your plumbing or is copper
the only plumbing material you've had experience with?
TDD
Sharkbites have nothing to do with PEX.
I do whatever work I need to do, in the interest of knowing the job was
done correctly, as well as being more self sufficient and saving a few
bucks. If it gives me an excuse to buy new tools, even better.
It's a better idea. They're called 45-degree ells.
> "Stepfann King" <steffa...@hated.byOT.troll.posters.net> wrote in message
> news:00d9584b$0$12240$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
>
>> Zootal <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in
>> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131:
>>
>>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
>>> failure?
>>
>> 247 degrees.
>
> Oh man, does that mean I need to unwind my coils?
Nope. Just watch out for them revenooers ...
--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.
- a Usenet "apology"
> "Zootal" <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131...
>
>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
>> failure?
>
> More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
> can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
> failure.
Can one safely use an EMT bender on copper pipe? My guess is "no", but
don't know for sure.
Why do they call them 45 degrees? Look at one - it's not 45 degrees,
it's 135 degrees. :-)
*There are benders for copper available. They look similar to my conduit
benders. I have never tried to bend copper pipe.
I had a plumber tell me not bend rigid copper. Period. I guess there is
flexible and rigid copper pipe...learn something new every day...
>
>Why do they call them 45 degrees? Look at one - it's not 45 degrees,
>it's 135 degrees. :-)
Yes, I know that. I also know that if you go to a plumbing supply house and
ask for a 135-degree ell they will tell you there is no such thing.
There are similar fittings known in the trade as 22.5-degree and 60-degree
ells; what do you suppose are the actual angles of those?
Hmm...the 22.5 is probably 157.5 degrees because why would you want such a
tight angle? Or how often would that actually occur. I didn't know they
made those - the only ones I've seen are the "45" degree bends. The 60, my
first guess would be an acute angle of 60, but that is a pretty sharp bend,
so the 60 is really 120 degrees?
I'm guessing that the true angle of the bend is (180 - <the numbernumber>),
not zero plus the number. So a 90 is 180-90=90 degrees. A 45 is 180-45=135.
IANAP (I am not a plumber)....
You got it; that's how they're numbered. Don't ask me *why*, though.
Not everyone can be as totally awesome as you think you are, Steve.
Jon
That's not the right type of bender for copper. If you feel that you
want to try it anyway then just pack the tube full of sand before
bending.
They sell them for people who don't know how to use a crimper and the
normal PEX fittings.
>David Nebenzahl wrote the following:
>> On 2/10/2010 12:24 AM Stepfann King spake thus:
>>
>>> Zootal <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in
>>> news:Xns9D1AE937BE973no...@216.196.97.131:
>>>
>>>> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
>>>> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
>>>> future failure?
>>>
>>> 247 degrees.
>>
>> Nah, you're all mixed up; that's the maximum *temperature* of water
>> you can run through the pipes.
>>
>>
>No, thats the compass heading of the pipes.
It's REALLY how many billions the government spent forming committees
to study the problem.
> So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
> Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
> failure?
I used some of those Shark Bite things to repair a 3/4" line at my cabin
that was in a hard to get to location. I was skeptical, but after using
them, and it holding for over a year now, I'm sold on them. A little
spendy, but when you have an odd spot, it's Tinker Toy simple. Bing, bang,
boom. Done.
Steve
Define "is". - Bill Clinton -
Ahhhh. Were I only as great as my dogs think I am .............
Heck, I learn something new every day or I consider the day wasted.
But I have owner contracted a 3,000 sf house, remodeled five, own four, and
currently maintain two. Was a contractor for nine years.
I've been around the block so many times, I'm still dizzy.
Steve
"Zootal" <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in message
> In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
> Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
> complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
> flushes the toilet).
You need an anti-scald valve. Pressure may drop, it it won't go too hot.
Twenty years from now I'm going to be a plumber. And I'm going to get
filthy stinking rich replacing all of those sharkbite fittings that
people installed twenty years ago cause they are all gonna leak
bwahahahaha...
Seriously - people are relying on a rubber o-ring to make a seal, and
they are going to seal this in a wall??? Know what rubber o-rings do
after 20 years or so? The more I look into PEX, the more I like it and
the less I like the sharkbite fittings.
Using pressboard for exterior siding was a great idea also. Until it
started to disentegrate ...
That doesn't mean they have nothing to do with PEX.
I have a hard time understanding modern man. There was a time in this
great country of ours when people were self-sufficient. Everyone knew
how to obtain food in one form or another, take care of their dwellings
and transportation and they never stood in line for anything. Technology
has bounded forward but that doesn't mean a single person can't deal
with most of it. I was talking to a doctor friend the other day when I
remarked that I can understand and repair just about anything except the
human female. *snicker*
TDD
I can understand them, however it turns out that isn't of much value as
they can't be repaired.
You are putting a 45 degree bend in the pipe - when you bend the pipe
you deflect it from straight by 45 degrees.
Well, that's about as simply put as I have seen it. But I do understand the
math folks here making their point, as most time angles are measured, they
are measured on the inside. And from there, it goes into reciprocals, etc.
As long as the pipe fits, and everyone's using the same method of measuring,
it's good.
Steve
> "Pete C." <aux3....@snet.net> wrote in
> news:4b7411c3$0$25675$ec3e...@unlimited.usenetmonster.com:
> nor should they be.
Depends on how badly they are broken. Some are just plain FUBARed. Others
have maybe some blemishes that can be lived with.
Ya gotta love em anyway. One of my grownup girlfriends voted for
Bill Clinton because he was pretty, she didn't like the way the
other guy looked. Besides, fixing women would destroy any of the
limitless entertainment value they possess. My only problem is
that I can't tolerate the crazy ones because I refuse to be abusive.
Some people live for conflict, it excites them. Not me, I like
peace and quiet.
TDD
Seems you re still in the planning stage..If you want to BEND, drop the
copper and use PEX..
Faster & cheaper and IMO better
It's not cheaper when you factor in the price of connectors, at least not
the job I'm doing. I was considering PEX and then they showed me the
seriously holy crud overpriced connectors. I decided to use copper instead.
I'm still not sold on PEX. The tubing may be good, but I have yet to see a
connector I trust. Sharkbites use rubber o-rings to make the seal. Know
what happens to rubber o-rings after 10-20 years? My copper will be sound
when the rubber o-rings have disintegraged and the sharkbites are all
leaking :-)
"Zootal" <nos...@spam.zootal.nospam.com> wrote in message
> Sharkbites use rubber o-rings to make the seal. Know
> what happens to rubber o-rings after 10-20 years?
In my experience, they stay in place and continue to seal. If you take them
apart they usually have to be replaced though.
They haven't been around long enough for anyone to really know for sure
what will happen in 20 years. I hope I'm wrong, but it just seems to me to
be really stupid to put something in a wall that uses a rubber o-ring to
make a seal. I've got connectors here and there like this (that use a
rubber o-ring to make a seal), mostly for my well and garden, and they all
have one thing in common - they all leak after a while.
Time will tell - I'm still thining of becoming a plumber in 10-15 years.
Just in case I'm right :-)
You should NOT be bending 1/2 or 3/4 copper piping... You need to
route
the piping by using the proper pipe fittings...
Bending piping weakens it and with the quality of water and the amount
of
chemicals in it, you don't want to create a weak point where it will
fail as
it begins to corrode on the inside... Also you want to take care not
to use
too much flux before you solder, any solder that gets INSIDE the pipes
will
pit the inner surface of the pipe and create a spot which will fail in
the future...
~~ Evan
Well the question here is: What sort of shower value do you have
installed ???
Is it a scald protection temperature balancing type ??? If it is,
your cartridge
inside the valve body might need to be replaced due to build-up of
crud from
hard water conditions... If it isn't one, meaning you have an older
home with
the individual hot/cold water valves for the tub/shower, then you
might want
to consider installing a new scald protection shower valve...
~~ Evan
LOL... The cost of PEX isn't in the tubing or the end adapter for the
copper
pipe stub at the fixture, it is entire with the TOOLS you need to work
with it...
You need a special tubing cutter to make cuts that are just right...
You need
the tubing expander to stretch the tubing to insert the end
fittings...
If you are making connections of PEX tubing INSIDE your walls you are
missing
the point, PEX is supposed to be run in an unbroken manner from
distribution
manifold to the fixture connection without any breaks or connections
to extend
the length of the tubing run inside the walls... PEX is supposed to
be run as if
you were pulling communications wiring in a homerun or "star
topography", and
NOT in the same manner you would run copper pipes from device to
device...
~~ Evan
It's one of those constant volume valves, where you can't control how much
water comes out. I hate it. I like to control water volume, so I replaced
it with extreme prejudice :-)