Sand in deck paint for non-skid surface?
Simpson
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
Thanks,
Jack
jJim McLaughlin
What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?
Simpson
Good answer!
I'm am *so* there!
Simpson
Crap!
They want my first-born just to be able to email them!
tn...@mucks.net
Home depot sells the silica sand for this purpose. I've used it but it
doesn't really add much traction to the surface at all.
Robert Allison
Jack,
Having done this many times, I will tell you how I do it. Paint the
surface that you want to be non skid, then take course sand (such as
play sand or masonry sand) and broadcast it onto the painted surface. I
just take a coffee can with a plastic lid and cut some holes in the
plastic lid, then use it like a salt shaker. When you have a pretty
even coat, backroll the surface with a paint roller.
Works alot better than mixing it with the paint, where it all seems to
clump together and never mixes well.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX
Edwin Pawlowski
"Simpson" <2-p...@epoxy.com> wrote in message
news:O39oj.5970$Rg1....@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...
Play sand works. Brush or roll on the paint, sprinkle with sand. A light
coat is all that is needed.
Richard J Kinch
> Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
Don't use silica sand, play sand, or such. It is a very hard abrasive and
will destroy stuff as it sheds off the paint. Paint stores sell pumice for
an anti-skid additive.
tn...@mucks.net
Paint stores that sell silica sand for paint must have it wrong then?
Dan Espen
> On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 21:09:38 -0600, Richard J Kinch
> <ki...@truetex.com> wrote:
>
>>Simpson writes:
>>
>>> Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
>>
>>Don't use silica sand, play sand, or such. It is a very hard abrasive and
>>will destroy stuff as it sheds off the paint. Paint stores sell pumice for
>>an anti-skid additive.
>
> Paint stores that sell silica sand for paint must have it wrong then?
I wouldn't find that surprising.
People want non-skid paint, they sell it.
If possible, I would use composite instead of wood.
No painting needed, never rots, it's non-skid to start with.
Only issue is composite needs more support since it
is not as rigid as wood.
Richard J Kinch
Yes.
Note that the USG product you cite is "volcanic". That is, pumice.
Simpson
I decided to use Behr Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive sold at Home Depot.
I don't know exactly what it is but it's white, very fine and gritty.
Not@home
abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed to
me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a saw or
router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix ground
walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well; they still
sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting, but I haven't
seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.
They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a manufactured
product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels like very fine
sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface that looks
smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a search for
non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com
Since marine supplies are expensive, the last time I was painting my
porch, I went to a paint store and asked if they had non-skid compound.
They said they did, but when I got it home it was very irregular and
looked, frankly, like they had raided a beach or a litter box, so I
didn't use it. I've worked with pumice, but it must come in grades, as
the stuff I had was too fine, in my opinion, to be effective as a
non-skid compound. I think most sand, on the other hand, would be too
coarse and would give a rough appearance, and really abrade anyone who
fell or sat on it, but would probably give very good traction. They
also sell various tapes, but I have never been convinced that they would
last very long in an outdoor application.
BobR
Under some circumstances, that could be one hell of a bargain. <BG>
Simpson
Good one!
Simpson
> I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
> abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
> manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed to
> me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a saw or
> router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix ground
> walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well; they still
> sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting, but I haven't
> seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.
>
> They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
> quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
> during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a manufactured
> product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels like very fine
> sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface that looks
> smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a search for
> non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com
I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.
http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/products_detail?prodGroupId=11&catName=Specialty&catId=22
I plan on applying one coat of floor paint without the additive to
treads, risers and porch and then apply a second coat to treads and
porch with additive mixed in.
Richard J Kinch
> I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
> and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
> pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.
>
> http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/products_detail?prodGroupId=11&catName=Specialty&catId=22
Polypropylene beads according to the MSDS.
Red Green
news:Byuoj.5280$0o7....@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:
Yes, very good one :-(
Red Green
news:bg9oj.8805$Ej5....@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net:
Why not just call a local paint store that sells it. If they don't know
let them call cust service.
George
The local real paint store (not big box) has the grit on hand. All you
need to do is say that you want anti skid and they pop the lid, add the
appropriate amount, close it and send it for a ride on the shaker mixer.
Not@home
Simpson wrote:
> Not@home wrote:
>> I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
>> abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
>> manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed
>> to me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a
>> saw or router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix
>> ground walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well;
>> they still sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting,
>> but I haven't seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.
>>
>> They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
>> quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
>> during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a
>> manufactured product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels
>> like very fine sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface
>> that looks smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a
>> search for non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com
>
>
> I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
> and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
> pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.
That is a very good price compared to the marine product, but they
always do charge quite a bit for marine products. It certainly sounds
like it will do the job.
Simpson
>
> Simpson wrote:
>> Not@home wrote:
>>> I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
>>> abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
>>> manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed
>>> to me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a
>>> saw or router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix
>>> ground walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well;
>>> they still sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting,
>>> but I haven't seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.
>>>
>>> They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
>>> quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
>>> during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a
>>> manufactured product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels
>>> like very fine sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface
>>> that looks smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a
>>> search for non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com
>>
>> I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
>> and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
>> pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.
>
> That is a very good price compared to the marine product, but they
> always do charge quite a bit for marine products. It certainly sounds
> like it will do the job.
I checked out the MSDS for both products.
They're the same animal. The unit price is probably not that much
different. One marine site wanted $20 for a pint. HD wanted $4 for 3
ounces (85.04 grams) by weight. But HD allows yo to buy in smaller amounts.
tic...@gmail.com
philo
> On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:
>
Oren
k...@attt.bizz
cobai...@yahoo.com
DerbyDad03
from years gone by and reply to it?
OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.
That should keep this ng relevant.
Oren
>On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo wrote:
>> On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, tic...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> > On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:
>> Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.
>
>who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you think it was now for some reason irrelevant? I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know whether the original poster had any good results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.
that help?
People here do try to keep up with current events.
--
"Dumb is local...As soon as you go 15 miles away from your dumbness, you see how dumb you are." -- Sherrod Small
Oren
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
>>> Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.
>>
>> who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
>> think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
>> I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
>> whether the original poster had any good
>> results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.
>
>People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
>from years gone by and reply to it?
>
>OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
>every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
>still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
>again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.
>
>That should keep this ng relevant.
LOL
Ed Pawlowski
in the past few months for some reason. Personally, I look at the
subject, but I don't look at the date for every post. If someone
replies, what harm is done? Is it worth taking the time to bitch
about it? Call someone out on it? If you answer "yes", it is
probably time to re-evaluate your own life.
Oren
Was the smiley face missing or am I an inarticulate fucker...
O Ring
O Ring
Ed Pawlowski
>My chuckle at Derby is pertaining to exactly what?
>
>Was the smiley face missing or am I an inarticulate fucker...
DerbyDad03
Notat Home
anti-skid compound, sold in chandleries, with excellent results. It
consists of tiny glass beads and you don't need a lot. You don't notice
it after applying it, but it prevents slipping quite well.
Stormin Mormon
of old answers from five years ago. You can tell from
the hair styles, and the cars the people drove.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
gregc...@gmail.com
april....@gmail.com
> 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
> the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
> non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
> use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
bob haller
Ed Pawlowski
lawnt...@gmail.com
> I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
> 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
> the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
> non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
> use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
alaska...@gmail.com
> I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
> 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
> the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
> non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
> use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack
Mayayana
>
I know this is an old post but anyone try walnut shell as one person
suggested? I have some for bullet case tumbling and it seems like it would
work well, not too rough but super hard, I am sure it could come in
different grits. Mine can't be used, it is polish impregnated.
>
makes snow shoveling difficult. If you don't
have snow you don't need it. If you do have
snow it's a hassle. I wouldn't use anything
except in special cases - like maybe an elderly
person at high risk.
msX
--
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