At the store are sharp 4" 90 degree bends and also longer more gradual
90 degree bends. I should think the "poop" would go around a bend in a
pipe "easier" if it was a "wider" turn?
Which got me to thinking that they have those sewer cameras now. Maybe
someone made some videos of poop going through various sections of
sewer pipe? And you would be able to see "how it works"???
What works best?
Besides large pipe, proper venting, and the proper drop per foot for
the sewer pipe, perhaps some designs are better than others?
Anyway I searched google videos and could only find videos of sewer
pipe inspections and nothing being "flushed" during the video. Anyone
know where there would be a video of this?
And dumb question... Does poop "float" down the pipe in the "wash of
water" from the toilet flush? (I would think it would be "sticky",
would sink to the bottom, and would tend to get stuck?)
It is the slope of the pipe that determines how material move in it.
If memory serves me correct it's 1 in 50. At that slope solids and
liquids move together along the pipe at about the same rate. If you
have the wrong slope the solids and liquids will separate as they
move. Bends in the pipe will slow things down but unless you are
thinking of putting in an excessive number of them you don't have to
be concerned. I don't recall what the code says about how many bends
you can use over a given length of pipe but as long as you stay within
the code you won't have a problem.
That thinking has already been done for you by some smart guys. All
you have to do is obey the rules.
I did all my plumbing when I built my house 10 years ago. I put a
level on a 50 to 1 slope and remarked the bubble lines both ways. I
used this level when I installed the pipe making sure it was sloped as
accurately as possible. I haven't had a pipe clog yet.
I've seen toilet testing videos where they flushed colored balls down
clear pipe. Good entertainment for the average do it yourself kind of
person. Google toilet testing or something like that. You'll probably
find something.
LdB
The tight bends are for use in the vent portion of the system, not the
waste.
--
DT
Except in severely vegetable deprived diets there is nothing but brownish
water by the time it makes it through the toilet trap. Very similar to an
ice cube in a blender; nothing left but slush.
Colbyt
There's a man who has never had the pleasure of popping the top on a
septic system.<G> Aside from the lumps, you'd probably be shocked
at how much paper folks seem to giftwrap them in.
Jim
You posted what I was tempted to last night. I've only helped open a
couple, and hope I never have to see it again.
--
aem sends...
Our sewers froze solid for about 90 days, last Winter. We had sewage
backing up into our toilets and our bathtub. Opening our clean-out
had sewage overflowing into our yard. Not something I ever want to
experience again.
About 15 yrs ago, our house had a back up from roots in the line out
by the street. Even after rotoing the blockage, some slowness of
drainage occurred. Opening a cross clean out under the house revealed
that when the previous blockage had backed up sewage, toilet paper had
stuck to the insides of the steel pipes and dried and was partially
blocking normal drainage. It was like toilet paper plaque. I finally
found one of those fire hose style nozzles and pushing the hose into
this 3" dia cross pipe, I was able to clean out this TP plaque and
clear the pipes adequately.
nb
I've seen the inside of my septic tank a few times.
What intrigued me the most were those tiny flies that live in there.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
Nature abhors a vacuum. If there is a way for an area to support life,
it will show up there. Even when it is not life as we understand it,
like those worm thingies that grow along volcanic vent holes way under
the sea in the dark.
--
aem sends...
The traditional slope is 1/4" drop per foot of run, which basically equates
to the 1 in 50 slope you mentioned.
I did my own plumbing when we built our house too (about 6+ years ago), and
simply taped a small piece of 1/2" plywood to one end of a 2 foot level.
Then I could simply put the shimmed end on the lower end of the slope and
center the bubble on the level as usual. It was an easy way to ensure the
1/4" per foot slope. We haven't had any clogs yet either.
Anthony
And who is to say they were eating their veggies? :)
If you search around a bit you will find a table of which type of
bends are allowed in each situation. It's not a simple as you think
because there is transitions between vertical and horizontal.
The steeper the slope, the higher the velocity, and the cleaner the
pipe:
http://www.pmmag.com/CDA/Archives/830d83d4ebfc7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
There is only a minimum slope.
Well yeah, all you have to do then is hold a 48" level with one end on
the pipe and level the bubble. If there's at least 1" of daylight on
the other end, you've got plenty of slope.
As I said in another post I built my own house. I was fortunate in
that the local building inspector was a good person to deal with. He
was also the local plumbing inspector (Small town). His only concern
is that things be done to code. He was a hard nose in that area so you
may as well do it right the first time otherwise you will do it right
the second or third time. I knew others that suffered his wrath and
were forced to do some major chances in their work and attitude. One
of my neighbours built at the same time I did. He was no more than a
semi skilled laborer that worked in the construction trade
(renovations not new construction). I remember him once telling the
inspector that the both the code and the inspector were wrong and that
the neighbor new more about building than the inspector. Guess who
lost that one. :)
The inspector gave me a few drawings that covered the plumbing code
and I believe the 50 to 1 slope was specified in those drawings, I
followed them to the letter and had no problem with him or the plumbing.
I'm a believer in Code Minimum. I built my house over code in a number
of areas. I remember the inspector commenting that if more people were
like me and made sure things were done right to begin with his life
would be a lot easier.
My main point to the OP was to get familiar with the code and follow
it. If his work passes inspection he has nothing to worry about.
One thing I recall doing that the code never mentioned was to clean
off all the little burrs that were left on the pipe by the saw. I
could see them being a problem by catching something and possibly
creating a small dam in the pipe.
LdB
> Well yeah, all you have to do then is hold a 48" level with one end on
> the pipe and level the bubble. If there's at least 1" of daylight on
> the other end, you've got plenty of slope.
Many plumbing runs are less than 48", or are in cramped areas, which is why
I use a 24" level instead. I also have a small 8" level I use in really
tight areas.
Also, when you're holding the pipe in one hand, and adjusting the hanger in
the other, it's difficult to hold a level and look for daylight underneath.
Even if the pipe is supported on one end, you still need the second hand to
attach the hanger when the proper slope is achieved.
By taping a 1/2" plywood shim to the end of my 2' level, I can simply set
the level on top of the pipe and still have both hands available for
positioning and anchoring everything.
Anthony