Glueing a broken plastic refrigerator shelf
Joe
too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
identical pieces. I've never had success gluing two pieces of plastic
together to support weight but I'd like to try something different and
see if it works. I'm going to take my Dremel and drill about 6 holes
in each side of the pieces to be joined. Then I'm going to insert
pieces of a paper clip into each hole to act as reinforcement for the
glue to adhere to much in the same way rebar works in cement. Has
anyone had any success with this? I'm thinking if nothing else it will
increase the surface area of the connection. Any hints on making it
work better? I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
it will expand into the holes
tomris
MLD
"Joe" <joe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1193839941.8...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
broken pieces. I used Phenoseal ( great adhesive caulking) to put all the
parts together. It's been a few years without failure.
MLD
Jeff
but doesn't stick to plastic, that's why you can pull off the cap even when
its coated with dried glue.
"Joe" <joe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1193839941.8...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Richard J Kinch
> I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
> it will expand into the holes
You have no chance of succeeding without analysis of the species of plastic
and what will bond to it. Few plastics admit a glue bond anything close to
the strength of the original material (which, after all, itself failed), so
your quest is quite futile. The notion of pinning is misconceived.
Polyurethane glue such as the overhyped brand you mention has its
applications, but this isn't one of them, and you shouldn't be suckered by
the phony labeling into thinking it is.
Glues and stuff to pour into your car are sold as easy miracles to solve
hopeless problems. It's best to learn that not every claim on the retail
shelf is credible, despite your natural credulity. Save your child's wonder
for the toy store, and develop your aging cynicism for $10 bottles of
stickum.
Jim Yanik
I had a plastic clamp for a clip-on fan break,and I used epoxy and popsicle
sticks to reinforce it;you have to let the epoxy cure for a week or two
before putting it under stress,to get it's full strength.
The clamp has a very strong spring,and it's held up for about two years
now. I used RAKA boat building epoxy and fumed silica thickener. I tried J-
B Weld before that,but it didn't hold up very long.It seems to be a softer
epoxy. System Three or West System epoxy would do just as well as the RAKA.
The popsicle sticks are stiff and give more strength than a paper clip
will,and epoxy bonds to it better.
Polyurethane glues are crap.(Gorilla Glue)They also foam up,expand and make
a mess.For wood,I guess they are OK.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
HotRdd
(Cyanoacrylate Adhesives) but it only works on certain plastics and
basically solvent welds them together. In some cases it's stronger than the
original bond.
"Joe" <joe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1193839941.8...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Joe
> "MLD" <M...@verizon.net> wrote innews:Nb1Wi.2576$mv.609@trndny08:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Joe" <joe5...@gmail.com> wrote in message
That's weird, I was doing some reading last night and it was
recommended to stay away from epoxy for plastic and then someone said
polyurethane worked great on plastic. Confusing. I guess all plastics
are different and some work best with poly and others with epoxy. I've
had great success with Gorilla Glue. I think the people who don't
aren't clamping the piece for 24 hrs. I've had the same experience
you've had with JB Weld. Funny, I used it a decade ago to fix a crack
in my radiator that sealed it shut now I have a problem getting it to
join anything that is stressed, I wonder if they changed the formula.
I'll try the Raka stuff you mentioned, any clue on where I can locally?
Phisherman
I tried something similar with disappointing results. Your mileage
might be better. Replacement shelves are way too expensive, So I'd
just do without the shelf until the refrigerator gets trashed. I have
good woodworking skills, so I'd construct a slotted shelf from white
oak.
TH
Might work or more likely a shelf collapse and a big mess. Sounds like
you just need new shelf supports. Probably not much more than the
price of the glue.
Try this:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/smartsearch.aspx
tn...@mucks.net
>My wife put 2 cartons of milk on the same shelf and that proved to be
>too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
>identical pieces.
I had that problem too. To resolve it I got rid of the wife and had
enough spare money to buy a new refrigerator.
Jim Yanik
news:1193856366.2...@o80g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
You are right.
> and some work best with poly and others with epoxy.I've
> had great success with Gorilla Glue. I think the people who don't
> aren't clamping the piece for 24 hrs.
Clamp plastic and you squeeze out the glue.
Poly works best with wood because it's designed to cure in the presence of
moisture already present in the wood.
> I've had the same experience
> you've had with JB Weld. Funny, I used it a decade ago to fix a crack
> in my radiator that sealed it shut
sealing and -joining- are two different tasks.
You need more bond strength for joining.Lots more for stressed parts.
> now I have a problem getting it to
> join anything that is stressed, I wonder if they changed the formula.
> I'll try the Raka stuff you mentioned, any clue on where I can
> locally?
>
>
AFAIK,RAKA is only available online,West System and System Three are at
least equal and usually available locally(boat,woodworking shops),but
System Three online has an EXCELLENT trial kit for $10(last I
checked,awhile ago) postpaid,it also has generous samples of various
fillers,the great Epoxy Book,a wonderful guide to using epoxies(a MUST
read,IMO.),spreaders,mixing cups and sticks,and a big piece of fiberglass
cloth.It will have enough epoxy for your application.
**And I don't have any financial association with them.**
I have used their trial kit and loved it.I still have the trial
kit box,book,and some of the fillers.I also get glass cloth from a hobby
shop,you can get very light weight cloths(top finishing) or
heavier,stronger cloths.
You can also use strands from the glass cloth in your repair.
the plastic I dealt with was similar to Bakelite.
your fridge shelf is going to get a lot of weight put on it,and it WILL
need reinforcement.I would use the popsicle sticks,a bit of that glass
cloth on both top and bottom,build it up thick(on the bottom side),and cure
it for 2 weeks before putting it into the fridge.The Epoxy Book will really
help you in this repair,and you can DL it for free from the System Three
website even if you go with West System.
IIRC;www.systemthree.com.
tra...@optonline.net
That would be the day, when you can get replacement refrigerator parts
for the cost of glue. I'll bet you the price of the shelf is easily
an order of magnitude more $$$ than the cost of glue.
Edwin Pawlowski
"Joe" <joe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1193839941.8...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> . I'm going to take my Dremel and drill about 6 holes
> in each side of the pieces to be joined. Then I'm going to insert
> pieces of a paper clip into each hole to act as reinforcement for the
> glue to adhere to much in the same way rebar works in cement. Has
> anyone had any success with this? I'm thinking if nothing else it will
> increase the surface area of the connection. Any hints on making it
> work better? I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
> it will expand into the holes
>
On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd give it a 1 for success. I doubt it will take
the weight of the shelf, let alone a couple of jugs of milk. If you get
lucky, you may be able to find the parts at an appliance dealer that takes
old units away when they deliver the new ones.
Red Green
news:32khi398795vvjp2m...@4ax.com:
Assuming the shelf itself broke, I was fortunate enough to be able to use
those plastic coated wire shelf racks you cut to length (Borg item). Got it
to fit in the existing clips fairly easily.
The rest of the old plated wire racks then looked like crap. Replaced them
all.
Have you tried duct tape? :-)
"It's only temporary, unless it works."
Red...
TH
Wasn't talking about the shelf. It wasn't clear if the shelf broke, or
just the supports. If he really just broke the supports, they're
cheap.
Chris Lewis
> You need to test a few spots to see what will hold. I love to use crazy glue
> (Cyanoacrylate Adhesives) but it only works on certain plastics and
> basically solvent welds them together. In some cases it's stronger than the
> original bond.
CA doesn't solvent weld most plastics any more than it does on metal
or wood. It also isn't that good under continuous weight bearing duty
in either cold or hot temperatures, unless you get the really good
stuff (not the teensy tubes from a variety store), and even then it's
not so hot...
Best to do some tests. Even model airplane glue might just do the
trick depending on the plastic and careful application.
--
Chris Lewis,
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis
> I tried something similar with disappointing results. Your mileage
> might be better. Replacement shelves are way too expensive, So I'd
> just do without the shelf until the refrigerator gets trashed.
Go to some of the more generic appliance parts dealers that are
online.
You may be pleasantly surprised.
AZ Nomad
>According to HotRdd <NoS...@YourEmail.com>:
>> You need to test a few spots to see what will hold. I love to use crazy glue
>> (Cyanoacrylate Adhesives) but it only works on certain plastics and
>> basically solvent welds them together. In some cases it's stronger than the
>> original bond.
>CA doesn't solvent weld most plastics any more than it does on metal
>or wood. It also isn't that good under continuous weight bearing duty
The only thing CA (superglue) works on is human skin. It is worthless
for everything else as it is too damn brittle.
Try acetone. It temporarilly disolves the plastic into a goo. Brush some
on the edge of both pieces. Touch to gooey sides together, and when it "dries"
it'll be a single piece of plastic.
Malcolm Hoar
>The only thing CA (superglue) works on is human skin. It is worthless
>for everything else as it is too damn brittle.
Yeah, but it does work well on skin! I recently discovered how
well when my 7 year old fell and made a nice gash on his nose
that I thought would need stitches. Off to the E.R. where they
stuck him back together with (medical grade) superglue. Within
about 10 days the would healed perfectly with no trace of a
scar. The Doc was right -- much better than stitches!
--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| ma...@malch.com Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Chris Lewis
Depends on the plastic. Model airplane glue is little more than
polystyrene dissolved in acetone to give it some body. If your
shelving is polystyrene (good chance), either acetone or model airplane
glue will work more or less the same, and model airplane glue is
easier to work with - won't dribble all over the place. Just
get fresh stuff - semi-congealed stuff won't work...
However, not all plastics are polystyrene. Acetone won't do a thing
to polyethylene for example. Essentially nothing will. Some plastics
just don't "glue". The "slippery ones" generally don't, no matter what
you use.
DerbyDad03
If you have room, why not sandwich the broken pieces between two
pieces of material, such a lexan, drilling and bolting on both sides
of the crack. The new material would bear the weight, not the damaged
shelf.
Or, as so many have said...purchase or make a replacement shelf -
probably the best idea.
M Q
Chris Lewis wrote:
...
> Depends on the plastic. Model airplane glue is little more than
> polystyrene dissolved in acetone to give it some body. If your
> shelving is polystyrene (good chance),
...
Shelving is probably not polystyrene. Even citrus oils dissolve
polystyrene. It would not do to have refrigerator shelves marred
because you put oranges in the fridge.
Polystyrene (unless it is foamed) tends to be on the brittle side
(in my experience). Those clear plastic (brittle) disposable
beverage cups are polystyrene.
Smitty Two
ma...@malch.com (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
> In article <slrnfik1gl.l...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>, AZ
> Nomad <azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
> >The only thing CA (superglue) works on is human skin. It is worthless
> >for everything else as it is too damn brittle.
>
> Yeah, but it does work well on skin! I recently discovered how
> well when my 7 year old fell and made a nice gash on his nose
> that I thought would need stitches. Off to the E.R. where they
> stuck him back together with (medical grade) superglue. Within
> about 10 days the would healed perfectly with no trace of a
> scar. The Doc was right -- much better than stitches!
What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
house works great for wounds.
Malcolm Hoar
>> Yeah, but it does work well on skin! I recently discovered how
>> well when my 7 year old fell and made a nice gash on his nose
>> that I thought would need stitches. Off to the E.R. where they
>> stuck him back together with (medical grade) superglue. Within
>> about 10 days the would healed perfectly with no trace of a
>> scar. The Doc was right -- much better than stitches!
>
>What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
>repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
>house works great for wounds.
Well, pretty much. Of course, the vendor probably had to
spend many millions getting FDA approval and satisfying
all kinds of requirements relating to manufacturing,
distribution, packaging, advertising and everything else.
Smitty Two
ma...@malch.com (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
> In article <prestwhich-55290...@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
> Smitty Two <prest...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> Yeah, but it does work well on skin! I recently discovered how
> >> well when my 7 year old fell and made a nice gash on his nose
> >> that I thought would need stitches. Off to the E.R. where they
> >> stuck him back together with (medical grade) superglue. Within
> >> about 10 days the would healed perfectly with no trace of a
> >> scar. The Doc was right -- much better than stitches!
> >
> >What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
> >repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
> >house works great for wounds.
>
> Well, pretty much. Of course, the vendor probably had to
> spend many millions getting FDA approval and satisfying
> all kinds of requirements relating to manufacturing,
> distribution, packaging, advertising and everything else.
Yeah. I dated an orthopedic surgeon for a while, and she swore that the
bone screws cost $1800 per copy. I also know, first hand, how screws are
made. Anyone wanna pony up some venture capital?
AZ Nomad
I've seen used medical screws. There isn't much similarity except the basic
function. Kind of like comparing a bottle rocket with a saturn booster.
Smitty Two
AZ Nomad <azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
So a medical screw is not a piece of metal that's been machined? What is
it, then?
AZ Nomad
It's not a piece of junk metal that was machined in two milliseconds.
Do you think a saturn booster is the same as a bottle rocket?
Smitty Two
AZ Nomad <azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
No screw is machined in two milliseconds. We make sophisticated parts
out of exotic materials all the time. If you can't tell me the
difference between a medical screw and some other screw, then may I
assume you know of none? Your rocket analogy is silly.
tra...@optonline.net
> In article <slrnfilg21.l46.aznoma...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
> AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 22:04:31 -0700, Smitty Two <prestwh...@earthlink.net>
> > wrote:
>
> > >In article <slrnfil9qg.l46.aznoma...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
> > > AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
>
> > >> On Thu, 01 Nov 2007 21:13:26 -0700, Smitty Two <prestwh...@earthlink.net>
> > >> wrote:
>
> > >> >In article <fge74u3613c002ma...@news.sonic.net>,> > >> >> <prestwhich-55290D.20081401112...@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
>
> - Show quoted text -
The fact that screws used for surgery cost $1800 probably has a lot
less to do with the manufacturing and more to the std overhead added
on to anything done in a hospital today.
When I was in the ER in LA two years ago, I was taking Tylenol for
pain. The ER doctor suggested I use Motrin instead. I wasn't too
keen on switching, but she kept pushing it, and offered to give me
one. Finally, I said yes, without even thinking, because it was just
a common Motrin When I got the bill, they charged me $18 for one
Motrin tablet that I could have bought at a drug store an hour later
for 25 cents.
larry moe 'n curly
Joe wrote:
> My wife put 2 cartons of milk on the same shelf and that proved to be
> too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
> identical pieces. I've never had success gluing two pieces of plastic
> together to support weight but I'd like to try something different and
> see if it works. I'm going to take my Dremel and drill about 6 holes
> in each side of the pieces to be joined. Then I'm going to insert
> pieces of a paper clip into each hole to act as reinforcement for the
> glue to adhere to much in the same way rebar works in cement. Has
> anyone had any success with this? I'm thinking if nothing else it will
> increase the surface area of the connection. Any hints on making it
> work better? I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
> it will expand into the holes
Aren't most plastic pieces inside refrigerators made of PVC? If so,
you want to use solvent, not glue, to fix them. Acetone or laquer
thinner will work, but hobby shops and electronics supplies. have
stuff made especially for gluing plastic models and TV cabinets.
Dan Espen
Sometimes Google satisfies, sometimes it doesn't.
I couldn't verify the cost of the screws you indicate above
but I did see some of the screws are stainless steel and
some are titanium.
$1800 does seem a bit steep, even for titanium.
I'd guess there's a very low volume and a lot
of inspections, including xrays of the part involved though.
Dan Espen
> My wife put 2 cartons of milk on the same shelf and that proved to be
> too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
> identical pieces. I've never had success gluing two pieces of plastic
> together to support weight but I'd like to try something different and
> see if it works. I'm going to take my Dremel and drill about 6 holes
> in each side of the pieces to be joined. Then I'm going to insert
> pieces of a paper clip into each hole to act as reinforcement for the
> glue to adhere to much in the same way rebar works in cement. Has
> anyone had any success with this? I'm thinking if nothing else it will
> increase the surface area of the connection. Any hints on making it
> work better? I'm going to use Gorilla Glue to join the pieces because
> it will expand into the holes
Back when I was young and poor I had this happen
and fixed the shelf with a sheet of glass cut to size.
Just some old glass from a door we had in the attic.
Worked for years.
A mirror would be good too.
I doubt any repair will hold up.
You should be able to get a new part from the
manufacturer.
AZ Nomad
>Smitty Two <prest...@earthlink.net> writes:
I'd like to see smitty get his ankle smashed into a thousand pieces and then
have his doc use some bigbox hardware store home construction screws. After
all, all screws are the same.
Malcolm Hoar
>Sometimes Google satisfies, sometimes it doesn't.
>I couldn't verify the cost of the screws you indicate above
>but I did see some of the screws are stainless steel and
>some are titanium.
>
>$1800 does seem a bit steep, even for titanium.
>I'd guess there's a very low volume and a lot
>of inspections, including xrays of the part involved though.
The bureaucratic regulations for medical devices are
likely responsible for much of the cost.
Smitty Two
AZ Nomad <azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
I find it curious that you insist on being so irrational. When did I say
that all screws were the same? I didn't attack or insult you, all I did
was ask you to substantiate your claim that a surgical screw is as
different from a hardware store screw as a space rocket is from a bottle
rocket.
You're the one who claimed to have seen a surgical screw, and said it
was completely different. If you want me to believe that, you're going
to have to tell me in what ways it's different. There are one cent
screws and there are $20 screws. Have you ever made a screw? Seen one
being made? Now tell me what it is, exactly, that makes a surgical screw
worth $1800, outside of all the bureaucracy that's involved, as others
pointed out.
Incidentally, my mom shattered all the bones in her ankle in 1953.
Doctors said she'd never walk again, which she did, without the
slightest limp, for another forty years. I'm guessing there were no
$1800 screws involved, even adjusted for inflation.
Red Green
news:prestwhich-8443C...@news.phx.highwinds-media.com:
I have 9 screws here. Had to have them taken out of my ankle because when
I wore hightop boots the heads would hurt like hell being just below the
surface.
Am I sittin' on a gold mine here?
Got the plate that some of the screws went through. Any bids on that?
Red...
Red Green
news:slrnfilg21.l...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net:
I dunno. But whatever they use to hold those shuttle tiles on I wouldn't
use on the chair.
Smitty Two
Red Green <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
> I have 9 screws here. Had to have them taken out of my ankle because when
> I wore hightop boots the heads would hurt like hell being just below the
> surface.
>
> Am I sittin' on a gold mine here?
>
>
> Red...
Hell yes. Shine 'em up and put 'em on ebay. Let's find out the resale
value of those puppies.
Red Green
news:Xns99DCA5BF8...@216.196.97.136:
errrr.....shelf...<wrong thread>.
And you with the chair glue Q, don't use Shuttle tile glue :-)
DerbyDad03
> In article <slrnfimsgq.avf.aznoma...@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
> AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 14:49:50 -0400, Dan Espen
> > <dan...@MORE.mk.SPAMtelcordia.com> wrote:
>
>
> > >> In article <fge74u3613c002ma...@news.sonic.net>,> > >>> <prestwhich-55290D.20081401112...@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'm not taking sides here, but if you want to see the difference
between surgical screw and hardware store screw, scroll down to the
Screw section of this site. Just like there are many variations of
hardware store screws, there are many variations of surgical screws.
I'm guessing once we start talking about hollow-shaft screws, we are
talking about considerable added expense.
http://www.rad.washington.edu/mskbook/orthopedichardware.html
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
I scanned the site I mentioned earlier and went past the Screw
section, into the Plate section to find another screw that could be
pretty expensive. Here's the text that's under the picture:
...the medial malleolar fracture above is held together by one of
these screws, made of a radiolucent polycarbonate material, which is
designed to eventually be absorbed by the body -- this type of screw
is known locally as "stealth hardware"
I'm guessing Lowes doesn't carry these in those little drawers. ;-)
http://www.rad.washington.edu/mskbook/orthopedichardware.html
Smitty Two
Red Green <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> >
> > I dunno. But whatever they use to hold those shuttle tiles on I
> > wouldn't use on the chair.
> >
>
> errrr.....shelf...<wrong thread>.
>
> And you with the chair glue Q, don't use Shuttle tile glue :-)
Refrigerator, chair, what's the difference? The important thing is you
have a great product marketing idea right there:
NEW! Shuttle Glue! Guaranteed to work on many terrestrial applications.*
(*not recommended for re-entry)
Malcolm Hoar
>...the medial malleolar fracture above is held together by one of
>these screws, made of a radiolucent polycarbonate material, which is
>designed to eventually be absorbed by the body -- this type of screw
>is known locally as "stealth hardware"
>
>I'm guessing Lowes doesn't carry these in those little drawers. ;-)
And even if they did, how would one go about picking out a
"stealth" screw?
The computer inventory system says we have 27,562 on hand... ;-)
Red Green
I don't walk with a limp either. My ankle only hurts half the time -
every other step.
Red Green
LOL!
Well, the drill the doc was using back then sure looked like some old
Milwaukee he picked up at a flea market. Fortunately I didn't see a caulk
gun with liquid nails around...could have been out of view though.
aemeijers
extremely tight QC requirements on the alloys used, the machining
quality, and the FDA-required audit trail (all implantable medical
devices are trackable from manufacture to disposal, IIRC). But the
headroom above that is 'what the market will bear', said market being
the insurance companies, and the end user seldom or ever sees the
charged price, so they don't quibble.
aem sends...
Smitty Two
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
Interesting link, thanks. I like the design of the Herbert screw. Very
clever. Nothing too difficult about making any of those, though.
Drilling longitudinal holes is easy enough, and as far as the "stealth"
screw, I wouldn't classify polycarbonate (the stuff of throw-away picnic
glasses) as Unobtainium. I didn't see any notes on what metal(s) were
used on the other ones.
I also found it surprising that in some cases, drilling a pilot hole for
the screw can weaken the bone by as much as 90%.
enigma845
>>> My wife put 2 cartons of milk on the same shelf and that proved to be
>>> too much weight for it and both back corners snapped off in almost
>> all the parts together. It's been a few years without failure.
>> MLD
>Regarding Gorilla glue, I use it for everything. It is the best glue ever. The secret is usng Just enough. The popsicle sticks are a neat trick. When I can, I use string or cording. Iie the ends of the string together when wet. (It will be stromger when dryas it shrinks.) Make a tight knot. Wrap the string around item that needs to be clamped(for gluing). Then take a stick/pencil/dowel, loop string around such then start twisting the stick/pencil dowel until tight. Then tape stick, etc. solid or secure pencil/stick on itself or wedge it so it remains tight. It works wonders and is cheaper than clamps.
>I had a plastic clamp for a clip-on fan break,and I used epoxy and popsicle
>sticks to reinforce it;you have to let the epoxy cure for a week or two
>before putting it under stress,to get it's full strength.
>The clamp has a very strong spring,and it's held up for about two years
>now. I used RAKA boat building epoxy and fumed silica thickener. I tried J-
>B Weld before that,but it didn't hold up very long.It seems to be a softer
>epoxy. System Three or West System epoxy would do just as well as the RAKA.
>
>The popsicle sticks are stiff and give more strength than a paper clip
>will,and epoxy bonds to it better.
>
>Polyurethane glues are crap.(Gorilla Glue)They also foam up,expand and make
>a mess.For wood,I guess they are OK.
>
--
Betty Boop
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
.
.
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:1194035903.4...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
DerbyDad03
> In article <1194035903.402149.142...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>,
> > > text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > I scanned the site I mentioned earlier and went past the Screw
> > section, into the Plate section to find another screw that could be
> > pretty expensive. Here's the text that's under the picture:
>
> > ...the medial malleolar fracture above is held together by one of
> > these screws, made of a radiolucent polycarbonate material, which is
> > designed to eventually be absorbed by the body -- this type of screw
> > is known locally as "stealth hardware"
>
> > I'm guessing Lowes doesn't carry these in those little drawers. ;-)
>
> >http://www.rad.washington.edu/mskbook/orthopedichardware.html
>
> Interesting link, thanks. I like the design of the Herbert screw. Very
> clever. Nothing too difficult about making any of those, though.
> Drilling longitudinal holes is easy enough, and as far as the "stealth"
> screw, I wouldn't classify polycarbonate (the stuff of throw-away picnic
> glasses) as Unobtainium. I didn't see any notes on what metal(s) were
> used on the other ones.
>
> I also found it surprising that in some cases, drilling a pilot hole for
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: I also found it surprising that in some cases, drilling a pilot
hole for the screw can weaken the bone by as much as 90%
Without any context, that statistic doesn't tell us much. They can
say that in "some cases" there's a 90% weakening, even if 99.99% of
the pilot holes only weaken the bone by 10%. All you need is a few
cases at 90% and you can make an "in some cases" claim sound
frightening.
I was watching CNN the other day and they were talking about the huge
disparity in death sentences given to one race over another. However,
they never gave any statistics related to the number of capital crimes
committed by either race. I'm not saying there isn't a disparity, but
how can I tell if the reported ratio of means anything unless they
also tell me the ratio of crimes committed by the races involved?
Statistics only have meaning when you know the full story behind the
data.
Smitty Two
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
> re: I also found it surprising that in some cases, drilling a pilot
> hole for the screw can weaken the bone by as much as 90%
>
> Without any context, that statistic doesn't tell us much. They can
> say that in "some cases" there's a 90% weakening, even if 99.99% of
> the pilot holes only weaken the bone by 10%. All you need is a few
> cases at 90% and you can make an "in some cases" claim sound
> frightening.
>
> I was watching CNN the other day and they were talking about the huge
> disparity in death sentences given to one race over another. However,
> they never gave any statistics related to the number of capital crimes
> committed by either race. I'm not saying there isn't a disparity, but
> how can I tell if the reported ratio of means anything unless they
> also tell me the ratio of crimes committed by the races involved?
>
> Statistics only have meaning when you know the full story behind the
> data.
I'm with you there. Nothing annoys me more than statistics divorced from
context. But hey, it was *your* source! FWIW, here's the sentence, which
might not give the number teeth, but maybe enough gum to chew oatmeal.
At least the surgeon should have a vague idea that drilling holes can be
detrimental as well as beneficial.
"One final word on screws: in order to use them, you have to make a
screw hole in the bone or in the hardware that uses them. This is of
note because screw holes weaken whatever material they pass through. I
have read biomechanical estimates that one screw hole passing through
both cortices of a femoral shaft will weaken that femur by 90 % to some
types of stress."
DerbyDad03
> In article <1194059977.096545.221...@z9g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
>
> - Show quoted text -
re: But hey, it was *your* source!
It was my source for the difference between a hardware store screw and
a surgical screw. Any other data culled from that site becomes the
responsibility of the culler. ;-)
Chris Lewis
> What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
> repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
> house works great for wounds.
Medical grade CA is a different formulation with somewhat more high
grade component chemicals. This shouldn't be a surprise - dimestore
grade CA doesn't perform nearly as well as even "Hot Stuff" does.
According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate, most regular
CA glue is methyl-2-cyanoacrylate, which degrades fairly quickly
in contact with human tissue and produces formaldehyde. Which is
a pretty strong irritant. Medical CA is 2-octyl cyanoacrylate
which degrades _much_ slower, and won't produce tissue irritation.
The FDA has only approved 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for medical use.
--
Chris Lewis,
Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis
Acetone doesn't work that well on PVC. PVC glue has small quantities
of acetone, but the main ingredients is MEK, Tetrahydrofuran,
PVC resin and some other solvents. Model airplane glue is acetone
based aimed for use on polystyrene. Laquer thinner is largely MEK
I think, but it's not designed as a glue, it'll be messy, and
glue joints probably brittle because it has no "body" to it.
Best way to glue PVC is PVC pipe glue.
I've done some major repairs to ABS-based devices using ABS
pipe glue (rebuilt a leaf blower after the impeller came apart
and demolished the blower housing. Bought a new impeller (no
way a glued one was going to balance let alone stay together,
but the housing was pieced back together). I'm sure that PVC glue
will work as well on PVC. Throwing scrap bits of PVC in as
reinforcements will help too.
Smitty Two
cle...@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote:
> According to Smitty Two <prest...@earthlink.net>:
>
> > What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
> > repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
> > house works great for wounds.
>
> Medical grade CA is a different formulation with somewhat more high
> grade component chemicals. This shouldn't be a surprise - dimestore
> grade CA doesn't perform nearly as well as even "Hot Stuff" does.
>
> According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate, most regular
> CA glue is methyl-2-cyanoacrylate, which degrades fairly quickly
> in contact with human tissue and produces formaldehyde. Which is
> a pretty strong irritant. Medical CA is 2-octyl cyanoacrylate
> which degrades _much_ slower, and won't produce tissue irritation.
>
> The FDA has only approved 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for medical use.
Interesting article, thanks. We use hot stuff for a lot of things around
the shop, including cuts. I didn't realize there was a difference
between brands, other than various viscosity formulations.
aemeijers
> According to Smitty Two <prest...@earthlink.net>:
>
>> What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
>> repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
>> house works great for wounds.
>
> Medical grade CA is a different formulation with somewhat more high
> grade component chemicals. This shouldn't be a surprise - dimestore
> grade CA doesn't perform nearly as well as even "Hot Stuff" does.
>
> According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate, most regular
> CA glue is methyl-2-cyanoacrylate, which degrades fairly quickly
> in contact with human tissue and produces formaldehyde. Which is
> a pretty strong irritant. Medical CA is 2-octyl cyanoacrylate
> which degrades _much_ slower, and won't produce tissue irritation.
>
> The FDA has only approved 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for medical use.
fingernails, and even on the occasional paper cut, on a routine basis.
(You know, like when you get a cut beside your nail, so whenever you
stick that hand in your pocket, the cut catches, and you scream in pain?
CA works great to keep those sealed.)
aem sends...
Chris Lewis
> > The FDA has only approved 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for medical use.
>
> Interesting article, thanks. We use hot stuff for a lot of things around
> the shop, including cuts. I didn't realize there was a difference
> between brands, other than various viscosity formulations.
I've been finding the cheap stuff often doesn't bond very well,
while Hot Stuff does what we want all the time. I tend
to think of CA (even Hot Stuff) only as a temporary glue for the
stuff we do (eg: model and high power rocketry). Good for (some)
quick field repairs, or tacking a part so that a slow-set glue can
cure, but it doesn't put up with temperature extremes or dampness
that well, and it's not that strong compared to a good epoxy
or even yellow/white glue. On the materials we work with of
course... (paper, cardboard, fiberglass, aluminum).
It does have one property that's highly prized in rocketry - being
very thin, it'll soak in and reinforce cardboard edges after they
start getting banged up.
I'm sure Hot Stuff is fine for small cuts - the amount of formaldehyde
would be quite small. However, formaldehyde _is_ nasty stuff and an
allergic sensitizer, and if you were dealing with the sizes of
incisions/wounds that surgeons would, it would begin to matter quite a
bit.
tra...@optonline.net
>
> >> What's medical grade CA? Is that $3 dimestore glue that's been
> >> repackaged and sold for $300? The standard stuff you have around the
> >> house works great for wounds.
>
> > Medical grade CA is a different formulation with somewhat more high
> > grade component chemicals. This shouldn't be a surprise - dimestore
> > grade CA doesn't perform nearly as well as even "Hot Stuff" does.
>
> > CA glue is methyl-2-cyanoacrylate, which degrades fairly quickly
> > in contact with human tissue and produces formaldehyde. Which is
> > a pretty strong irritant. Medical CA is 2-octyl cyanoacrylate
> > which degrades _much_ slower, and won't produce tissue irritation.
>
> > The FDA has only approved 2-octyl cyanoacrylate for medical use.
>
> Shrug. I use the civilian, non-medical-rated stuff on cracked and split
> fingernails, and even on the occasional paper cut, on a routine basis.
> (You know, like when you get a cut beside your nail, so whenever you
> stick that hand in your pocket, the cut catches, and you scream in pain?
> CA works great to keep those sealed.)
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
For the OP original question, while at Home Depot, I found they have a
super glue made by locktite that specifically for plasitcs. I don't
know how much better or different it may be thqn std crazyt glue, but
that's what I went with. I just repaired my refrig shelf foot with
it. It cost about $3 and is a two part system. First you apply some
kind of activator to both surfaces, which goes on with a small magic
marker type device. Then you apply the glue to one surface and hold
together for 30 secs.
A lot of this depends of course on where the break is. In my case,
it's on one of the 4 feet that holds it, but it winds up with most of
the load pressing down onto the crack faces as opposed to shearing
force which would cause the crack surfaces to try to move against each
other. Hopefully it will hold, I'll let you know if it falls apart.
Asiangem
> MLD wrote:
>
> "Joe" <joe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1193839941.8...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> Different product (soap dish) I cemented paper clips under and across the
> broken pieces. I used Phenoseal ( great adhesive caulking) to put all the
> MLD
Sugru is the world’s first mouldable glue that turns into rubber glue
It all started with an idea and a small team of product designers and
material scientists here in London. Their dream is to make fixing,
modifying and making things easy and fun for anyone, and Sugru is our
solution.
Their patented silicone technology is unique. Out of the pack, Sugru feels
like play-dough, and it's that easy to use too. It bonds to almost any
other material and cures just by exposing it to air. Its durable cured
properties mean it'll stay strong and securely bonded anywhere from the
freezer to a steamy hot shower, from the home to the great outdoors.
https://sugru.com/guides/how-to-fix-...ing-with-sugru
I do not sell the product or have any connection to the product - just
that it worked to fix a hole and molded an hook for my shelf which was in
the inside of the door.
--
David L. Martel
Did you glue on the shelf supports or the shelf?
Dave M.
\Horace L\
> I do not sell the product or have any connection to the product - just
> that it worked to fix a hole and molded an hook for my shelf which was in
> the inside of the door.