Frigidaire refrigerator fresh food section stopped cooling

[Michael T.]

My two-year old 14 cu. ft. Frigidaire refrigerator fresh food section
stopped cooling for about 24 hours then returned to normal. That was two
months ago.

Well this morning I found the fresh food section back at 60 degrees again.
Ugh! (The freezer section is working normally.)

Any ideas which part may be causing this temporary stoppage? Last time I
believe the repairman replaced a part (he may have called it a timer) that
was making a rattling sound.

[recycl...@gmail.com]

The first thing that you should check is if the condenser is clean.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 10:27:40 -0700 (PDT), recycl...@gmail.com
wrote:

First thing I'd check is if the evaporator fan is running. Freezer is
OK, but no air passage. Next would be the defrost timer or defrost
element. That may allows the passage to the food section or the evap
coil to ice over.

[Michael T.]

<recycl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The first thing that you should check is if the condenser is clean.

Thanks so much. Would an overheating (or malfunctioning) condenser not
effect the freezer section also, which is functioning normally?

Now if can figure out how to do that. :) The owners manual is really skimpy.
It doesn't even show how to remove the toe grille.

As a retired software engineer I can't believe I know so much about
computers, but am a total dummy when it comes to appliances.

UPDATE:
My research suggests that it was the start relay that was replaced -- since
that is the part associated with a rattling sound when it fails.

[Michael T.]

"Ed Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote:
>
> First thing I'd check is if the evaporator fan is running. Freezer is
> OK, but no air passage. Next would be the defrost timer or defrost

> element. That may allow the passage to the food section or the evap
> coil to ice over.

Thanks Ed. I was reading about the defrost timer when I received your
comment.

I will see if I can find a parts diagram for my frig online. I cannot seem
to get the toe grille off so I can see if that is where the defrost timer is
located. I do know that is the location the repairman used to replace the
start relay.

The fact that the freezer is still working and that last time the fresh food
section started cooling again in 24 hours certainly seem like good clues --
and consistent with what you're saying. For example, if I had a bad
compressor one would think the freezer would also fail -- and it's not.

But then again, what do I know -- I'm just a computer 'guy' who finds
appliance repair daunting. :)

[Stormin Mormon]

Defrost timer comes to mind.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:jtutds$17l$1...@dont-email.me...

[Stormin Mormon]

Often a good idea. The fact the freezer is cold,
tells me that dirty condensor isn't the primary
problem du jour.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

<recycl...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c4af6f1a-a842-4b0c...@googlegroups.com...

[Stormin Mormon]

I'm with you. These symptoms suggest either bad
evap fan (oddly, I replaced two, last week) or a
defrost problem.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Ed Pawlowski" <e...@snet.net> wrote in message
news:tt060896is4d3chtq...@4ax.com...

[Stormin Mormon]

Dirty condensor would make both sides warm up, freezer first.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message

news:jtv0ko$kt1$1...@dont-email.me...

[Stormin Mormon]

Much easier to remove the toe grille with the bottom door open. Both doors,
in case of side by side.

Start relay is on the compressor. Which should be in back.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message

news:jtv1ii$qgk$1...@dont-email.me...

[Michael T.]

Here's the latest Christopher and it's mostly good news.

An hour ago I unplugged the frig for 10-15 minutes.

More recently I set the temperature control to zero (off position) for the
food section. I also set the freezer control to Normal. The repair guy had
set it to max cold when he was here two months ago and told me that is where
I should leave it.

I just checked the fresh food section temperature. Eureka! It seems to be
cooling and moving my Wal-Mart temperature gauge back to the normal setting.

One of these steps must have definitely had an impact. I am left wondering
if the evap coil iced over which Ed Pawlowski mentioned.

Or do you think it was something else based on the steps that apparently
allowed the food section to start cooling again?

[Stormin Mormon]

If you leave both controls to max, the freezer gets bitter cold, and the
refrig side warms up. It's an odd thing, but that's what I've experienced.
Sounds like the repair guy was ignorant. Some where in the middle of the
range works best.

Glad it turned out to be a simple repair. Thanks for letting us know what
you find.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message

news:jtv40p$9m2$1...@dont-email.me...

[Marilyn & Bob]

On 7/15/2012 3:00 PM, Michael T. wrote:
> The repair guy had
> set it to max cold when he was here two months ago and told me that is where
> I should leave it.

�The repair guy had set it to max cold when he was here two months ago
and told me that is where I should leave it.� Don't let this guy into
your house again! He has no idea how refrigerator controls work.

The "Fresh Food" control regulates how much the compressor is on (i.e.
how much cooling is generated). The "Freezer" control adjusts the amount
of cold air that goes from the Freezer (where the cooling coils are) to
the Fresh Food compartment. This control should always be set to the
mid position unless when the freezer is at the correct temperature, the
Fresh Food section is colder or warmer than it should be.
--
Peace,
bobJ

[Michael T.]

"Marilyn & Bob" <pri...@nospam.please> wrote:
>
> �The repair guy had set it to max cold when he was here two months ago and

> told me that is where I should leave it.� Don't let this guy into your
> house again! He has no idea how refrigerator controls work.
>
> The "Fresh Food" control regulates how much the compressor is on (i.e. how
> much cooling is generated). The "Freezer" control adjusts the amount of
> cold air that goes from the Freezer (where the cooling coils are) to the
> Fresh Food compartment. This control should always be set to the mid
> position unless when the freezer is at the correct temperature, the Fresh
> Food section is colder or warmer than it should be.
> --
> Peace,
> bobJ
>

Not only do I appreciate your excellent post Bob, but it is also very timely
because the problem has returned.

However, due to your comments (and others in this thread) I am better able
to establish a baseline with the two controls and better able to describe my
problem.

Even before I read your email I had set the freezer control to the mid
position as you are suggesting.

The fresh food control is set to the setting labeled "Normal" on the
control. This combination used to regulate both the freezer and food
sections correctly.

PROBLEM: The freezer temperature is OK, but the food section is no longer
cooling and has warmed to almost 60 degrees.

QUESTION: With a freezer section at the desirable temperature and a fresh
food section at 60 degrees what does this point to? Is it the defrost timer
or the evap fan or the evap coil icing over?

Or is it possibly something else given that it is both intermittent and only
the food section is not cooling? By intermittent I mean that when this
happened two months ago it fixed itself within 24 hours and never failed
again until today. So it may fix itself again tomorrow as it did a few hours
ago.

[Michael T.]

To all the great commenters:

This persons problem sounds very similar even though it was a Kenmore
instead of a Frigidaire, doesn't it?

*************
My 3 year old Kenmore fridge failed (freezer compartment fine, but
refrigerator compartment did not cool). I diagnosed the problem as the
evaporator fan motor. This motor from Amazon is a compatible (hopefully
improved) replacement part for a number of Frigidaire, Electrolux and
Kenmore refrigerators.
**************

Hmmm.

[Stormin Mormon]

Could be any of these three.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message

news:jtvpuu$3ht$1...@dont-email.me...

[Stormin Mormon]

That's one of the three options I'd be
looking at.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Michael T." <no_spa...@cox.net> wrote in message

news:jtvrp7$al5$1...@dont-email.me...

[Michael T.]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:OvKMr.176953$Hy2....@news.usenetserver.com...

> That's one of the three options I'd be
> looking at.
>
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> .

It certainly resonates with this "computer nerd's" experience with desktop
computer fans I've replaced. They seem to often die a slow and painful death
sputtering and then working again -- then finally quitting for good.

Thanks again for all your input.

[gregz]

It's obvious to me I can feel blowing air, and can easily hear the fan on
units. Sometimes they shut off when you open the door. What's so difficult
?
Well my fridge was getting around 32 one day when I put too much stuff in
the freezer. Kinda reverse problem.

Greg

[Marilyn & Bob]

If it's just an adjustment problem, I would try setting the freezer
control to one level warmer. This should allow for more of the cold air
to go to the fresh food area. If that makes the fresh food better but
the freezer becomes a little too warm, then you can adjust the food
thermostat to a bit cooler. Note that it can take a few hours for the
temperate in each compartment to rebalance.

Also note that while it might take a bit of work, the toe plat should
come off. Work one side at a time. Then you can vacuum out the condenser.
--
Peace,
bobJ

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

If the freezer section is getting down to zero, then the compressor is
working properly. You have a blockage between the freezer and the
main refrigerator. Is the refrigerator below the freezer compartment,
that is the normal setup. You must defrost the entire freezer-
refrigerator, leave it off for at least 12 hours, and then turn it
back on. set both controls to mid-range and let the thing run for at
least 12 hours to start to stabilize temperatures. Then adjust the
controls a little at a time, no more than 105 of the range change
each time, then wait 4 or 5 hours for things to stabilize. You must
also find the defrost timer, that is probably the source of your air-
flow blockage, if it doesn't run and defrost for at least 1/2 hour
everyday, the frost will build up and block the air flow. IT is most
commonly a problem on hot damp days when there is the most frost
buildup on the cooling coils, wherever they are.

[Michael T.]

You're a genius Bob.

I followed most of your steps late Sunday and the fresh food section began
cooling again late that night.

This morning with a minor tweak to the fresh food temp control the
temperature was back to normal range. (I have a frig thermometer in the
fresh food section.)

Finally, it was a rather hot humid day (at least by San Diego standards)
when this all started.

I will archive your post for future reference.

Kudos.

************************

[Michael T.]

What I have yet to determine is if a good appliance repairman can diagnose a
defective defrost timer that might be failing intermittently. Whether we fix
computers (which I do) or cars or appliances, I think the one thing we all
agree on -- WE HATE INTERMITTENT PROBLEMS.

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

AGREEEEEEEEEED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!