Becket oil burner dripping
Jim
drops a day, directly underneath. The oil connections are all tight
and look dry, it's clean, and the nozzle is tight. Any idea what else
to look at? I could call the oil company, but I'd rather fix it
myself.
Thanks
CBHvac
Did it come with the furnace? In other words...did you change the burner
3years ago, or the entire furnace? If the entire furnace, its under
warranty...
And you are right...I would rather fix it myself than to call an oil company
to fix anything..
They exist to sell you oil....and few, have any qualified techs..
"Jim" <jv9...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d8bc291f.03011...@posting.google.com...
Mike H
be oil on the bottom of the nozzle and in the airtube if it is dripping. The
nozzles I use seem to last about a year. I replace the nozzle and adjust the
airflow myself. My burner is not a becket but I suspect the problems of oil
burners are similar.
Most people will tell you that special equipment is needed to make
adjustments on oil burners. My burner came with instructions to adjust the
airflow by the color of the flame. I also have carbon monoxide detectors in
my home. So far, for as long as I've had the detectors there has been no
carbon monoxide.
Might be best to have a technician look at your burner. You can always watch
what he does so you might be able to learn how you might do it yourself the
next time.
--
Mike
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"Jim" <jv9...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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CBHvac
"Mike H" <1newsATstelliteDOTmailshellDOTcom> wrote in message
news:kFmdnaQbtce...@comcast.com...
> The nozzle could be worn out and dripping after the flame is out. There
will
> be oil on the bottom of the nozzle and in the airtube if it is dripping.
The
> nozzles I use seem to last about a year. I replace the nozzle and adjust
the
> airflow myself. My burner is not a becket but I suspect the problems of
oil
> burners are similar.
They clog...they dont wear out..they get screwed flame patterns...due to
clogging...they dont wear out...
>
> Most people will tell you that special equipment is needed to make
> adjustments on oil burners.
Like the maker of the unit..??
> My burner came with instructions to adjust the
> airflow by the color of the flame.
Cool...shame you cant do that on 100% of the units...and what if the color
is fine, but the GPH is wrong?
>I also have carbon monoxide detectors in
> my home. So far, for as long as I've had the detectors there has been no
> carbon monoxide.
That they can detect...remember...a $20 detector is about as useful as dirt
when setting one up...by the time it goes off, its too high.
>
> Might be best to have a technician look at your burner. You can always
watch
> what he does so you might be able to learn how you might do it yourself
the
> next time.
Sure...and I dont mind at all...hell..my Bacharach is even for sale...
The Masked Marvel
but usually sooting and unburned oil oder becomes unbearable before CO
becomes high, whereas gas CO can become high before sooting and odor become
unbearable. That said, w/o CO2 or o2 measurements (+ smoke spot test & stack
temp) you can not get it close enough by eye. by eye you can get it to burn
well enough to do an initial combustion test (or get you through the night),
but that's about it. Still the CO detectors are good to have.
It is not clear where the oil drip originates. Is it coming from the pump
(or just seems to come from the pump), or from the air tube (likely from the
nozzle), or from a fitting (even if seemingly tight? The fittings are *all*
flare not compression I trust? Does it have an oil shut off solenoid? it
could be a leaking nozzle, bad solenoid (if present) bad pump cutoff
(especially if no oil solenoid), leaking fitting (perhaps a poor flare),
leaking pump gasket, or other. If it doesn't have an oil valve a delayed
valve may be in order (for complete cutoff and some prepurge for better
lightoff). Any number of things are possible. You could get a tech from your
oil supplier or an independant oil tech (less common but they are out
there). Good luck
"CBHvac" <webm...@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote in message
news:SLZU9.499$xq.2...@eagle.america.net...
Michael Taurus
"CBHvac" <webm...@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote
> Got a Suntec pump on it? Seals leaking...
> Did it come with the furnace? In other words...did you change the burner
> 3years ago, or the entire furnace? If the entire furnace, its under
> warranty...
> And you are right...I would rather fix it myself than to call an oil
company
> to fix anything..
> They exist to sell you oil....and few, have any qualified techs..
Hey!
Some of us are qualified!!!!
;-]
(BTW, you e-mails are bouncing back again.......)
Michael Taurus
"Jim" <jv9...@yahoo.com> wrote
Get a pie pan and put a 50/50 mixture of Sta-Dri and Sweet-Air powder in it
and place it under the burner.
CBHvac
"Michael Taurus" <WeAr...@home.now> wrote in message
news:b02ec9$iqj$1...@bob.news.rcn.net...
>
> "CBHvac" <webm...@removethis.carolinabreezehvac.com> wrote
>
> > Got a Suntec pump on it? Seals leaking...
> > Did it come with the furnace? In other words...did you change the burner
> > 3years ago, or the entire furnace? If the entire furnace, its under
> > warranty...
> > And you are right...I would rather fix it myself than to call an oil
> company
> > to fix anything..
> > They exist to sell you oil....and few, have any qualified techs..
>
> Hey!
Yo...
:)
>
> Some of us are qualified!!!!
LOL...I know..I know...but you know yourself how rare that is..
>
> ;-]
>
> (BTW, you e-mails are bouncing back again.......)
Dammit...ok..thanks for telling me..time to dump the server again...will
check all the mail in the morning...and dump about 5000 spams...LOL
>
>
Tom Lachance
replaced, or the oil line from the pump to the drawer assembly.