thanks in advance!
Kumar.
First thing we need from you is a full model and serial number - you
should find them on a little label inside the dryer door. Model number
should begin 110. and serial number should be M with another letter and
seven numbers. This information will help us to identify exactly what
model you have.
From what you describe, this sounds like an electronic touchpad model -
there should be a tech sheet inside the console which will give you some
info as to how to run a diagnostic cycle on the dryer. Check
http://ng.appliance411.com/ , http://www.applianceaid.com/ or
http://groups.msn.com/appliantology for some pictures and advice to help
you on just getting into the machine, loads of other good info on those
sites too.
There are several excellent appliance guys on here (Dan O. and Jeff
being just two), we should be able to get you sorted out.
First, thanks for the immediate reply and willingness to help! Here is the
info you requested:
Model: 110.60092990
Serial: MK2605453
Yes, I have that darn electronic touch pad..maybe never again on future
dryers/washers :)
In the mean time I will go into the machine again and tear appart the
control panel to run the diagnostics. Be back.
Thanks!
Kumar
"Mad Mac" <MadMac...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:zp%Jb.863$lE.9...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
It sounds like there may be a problem in the electronic control
itself. There should be a 'tech sheet' somewhere in the dryer (maybe
inside the console panel or cabinet) which may help you to diagnose it
better. I'm afraid I can offer any other suggestions, sorry.
Dan O.
-
Appliance411.com
http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+dryer
=Ð~~~~~~
Is my control board bad?
Kumar
"Kumar" <ktp_i...@yahoo.no-spam.edu> wrote in message
news:UG%Jb.14090$VV4....@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
...i'm begining to think my control board is bad. going to start checking
around on cost i suppose, unless anyone else has any more options.
thanks Dan!
Kumar
"Dan O." <see_m...@www.appliance411.com> wrote in message
news:Qm0Kb.46900$mH2....@read1.cgocable.net...
I guess I'll try a new board. do the folks that sell those online take
returns if the board is not at fault?
Kumar
...ps. thanks for the help!
"Mad Mac" <MadMac...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:_M0Kb.872$lE.9...@news3.news.adelphia.net...
> I have a fairly new house and have actually decreased the load on my main
> panel by turning off many things. My machine won't stay on PF for long
> before it blinks right back to "cotton" mode.
>
> I guess I'll try a new board. do the folks that sell those online take
> returns if the board is not at fault?
>
> Kumar
Good question...honestly don't know the answer. Best to check the
vendor's website, they may have their policy on returns listed. I'd also
check with a local supplier (if you have one), as these boards are
generally sold on an "exchange" basis, you may be able to save some
money by "turning in" the old one.
"Kumar" <ktp_i...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6d795e57.04010...@posting.google.com...
I will give it a shot after the wife wakes up :)
Kumar
"Des Perado" <mc...@995.ca> wrote in message
news:vvhac9t...@corp.supernews.com...
The company at the following link advertises "No hastle returns" and
states "Return Any Part" but be sure to check the fine print. BTW,
that link takes you to the replacement control for your model, part
number 3976611 their Item # 828419
http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=828419
UPDATE:
replaced the Control Board. did NOT fix the issue :( I guess I need
to go for the actual control panel next? This is getting a bit
frustrating as well as expensive.
kumar
>UPDATE:
>
>replaced the Control Board. did NOT fix the issue
>I guess I need to go for the actual control panel next?
>
> This is getting a bit frustrating as well as expensive.
That's why I usually recommend purchasing an extended warranty when
purchasing stupid (IMO) electronically controlled appliances.
The Purchase : Which appliances need more warranty?
http://ng.appliance411.com/purchase/more.shtml
Let us know how you eventually make out.
I will keep you all posted on what I replace next and what works.
thanks!
Kumar
"Dan O." <see_m...@www.appliance411.com> wrote in message
news:Qo_Lb.379$Wx2...@read1.cgocable.net...
I have the same dryer, and the same problem. Does anyone know if a
solution was ever found?
Thanks
Matt
Hi,
> Model: 110.60092990
Exact same model?
> Dryer keeps BEEPING
Exact same problem?
Beeps 3 times?
Should be a tech sheet inside the dryer with some tests....one should
be for the temp thermistor.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=548392
Thermistor control for dryer.
The heat thermistor can sometimes make the dryer beep and quit.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Yep, same model.
Same beeping behavior as described. Not 3 times though - it's constant
with no discernable pattern. Basically, the led display shows "40"; you
can't change any cycles or choose any options (doing so results in
another beep). If you put a load of wet clothes in and press start, the
dryer will run at high heat, beeping the entire time. Sort of goes: bee
da beep bee da beep bee da beep CONSTANTLY until it eventually shuts
off. The clothes are slightly damp at the end of the cycle; re-starting
the same load will result in the dryer running for a minute or 2 and
then shutting off; adding a new wet load will cause it to run until
they are also just slightly damp.
Also, it will sometimes start beeping randomly in the middle of the
night (no clothes in it, not used for a few days) for no apparent
reason.
I'll check tonight on the heat thermistor test - thanks for the tip!
One other thing -
Plugging/unplugging the beast from the outlet some random number of
times (usually, less than 10) will usually make it act normal for a
week or so. If I run the diagnostics listed in the spec sheet during
this time, they all check out.
Thanks much for the tip, will let ya know what I find.
Matt
Is it the beep you hear at the end of a cycle or the beep made by the "lint
filter plugged" indicator. I think these machines still had this installed
when this machine was made. Has since been eliminated because it would be
triggered by just a item of light weight fabric or dryer sheet momentarily
stopping in front of the outlet grill. >
Good question. The machine does have a "check lint screen" LED; however
I see no reference to any kind of sensor in the schematic on the tech
sheet. Given that this tech sheet also directs you to diagnostic test
#'s that don't exist anywhere else in the tech sheet, and the fact that
_something_ must trigger the LED, I'm assuming there must be a sensor
somewhere. I'm guessing it's somewhere near the lint screen? (Stupid
question perhaps.... but this model has to win some sort of prize for
most expensive/most badly designed appliance in the universe. Oh wait a
minute - my lennox furnace already got that prize (but that's another
story).
Any guidance as to where to look for the lint sensor would be
appreciated.
P.S. for Jeff -
Heat thermistor checked OK.
Also, I'm in side talks with Kumar via email - his dryer is still
malfunctioning. I'm thinking of starting a support group for people who
bought this model.
I found through experimenting that I could push (and hold) one of the
other mode buttons below Cotton and press the start button while
holding the mode button and it would successfully complete a cycle in
that mode (while beeping). I used the dryer this way a few times, but
I unplugged the front panel wires so that I wouldn't go crazy with the
beeping.
The solution was to have the front (button) panel replaced. My guess
is that the design is flawed and one of the buttons gets "stuck" after
a while. Odd thing is the diagnostics don't show a button stuck, so
it's probably just a partial contact - but enough to be detected as a
stuck button by the control board. Notice that with a working dryer,
you can push and hold the Cotton button and get exactly the same
symptoms.
Good luck,
Lance
Yep... have found out that Sears has issued a service bulletin on this,
which requires replacement of the touchpad and control board. Full cost
to be paid by the customer, of course. ($450+). I called them this
morning in the hopes maybe they would fix it at no or reduced cost. No
dice.
It's just.... sad.
Thanks for the tip on pressing the cotton button - I didn't know that.
I'm thinking of seeing if the touchpad can be taken apart and
cleaned......
For anyone else struggling with this issue, here is a link to a thread
which provides some more info:
http://applianceblog.com/forums/forum3/56.html
> Thanks Lance!
>
> Yep... have found out that Sears has issued a service bulletin on this,
> which requires replacement of the touchpad and control board. Full cost
> to be paid by the customer, of course. ($450+). I called them this
> morning in the hopes maybe they would fix it at no or reduced cost. No
> dice.
>
> It's just.... sad.
Very, Our 2000-model 110.70052990 (serial# MK 2604280) has just
come down with the beeping stuck-in-cotton mode disease.
>
> Thanks for the tip on pressing the cotton button - I didn't know that.
> I'm thinking of seeing if the touchpad can be taken apart and
> cleaned......
I tried this. You can peal off of the layer in front of the buttons,
but everything is sealed under layers of sticky plastic. The buttons
etc are stuck right onto the steel frame of the front panel. It's
possible to re-stick the front panel without it getting too bent.
I had a hunch that the Cotton button was stuck down, and sliced
around it with a knife. I was able to lift it up and ensure
that the contact was actually broken, but that didn't fix anything.
One thing that seems odd is that I wasn't able to detect a voltage
across these buttons when the unit is on. The service manual says
that there should be 3V, but I couldn't find an voltage either
at the buttons, or between pins 3-1 and 4-1. I wonder if something
is burnt out on the control board that cuts the power supply to
the front panel? The seal around one of the small ICs (a 6-leg one)
seems a bit bubbled up; perhaps this overheated?
So I'm looking to order both the control board and the front panel
from a place that takes returns, and I'll see which is needed
(or both). Sigh.
Simon
--
Simon Fraser <mailto:sm...@smfr.org> <http://www.smfr.org/>
(Professional driver on closed road)
I have just starting to experiance the same prolbems as above. Is
replacing pad and control panel the final fix for this?
Trey
--
Thoot12