Why does my well leak air??
Russ Pangratz
I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
awhile but starts again. What should I do??
--
Russ Pangratz
ru...@mercies.com
Tallahassee Vineyard Christian Fellowship
http://www.nettally.com/vcftally
GIVE HIM THE HIGHEST PRAISE !!
hi...@millcomm.com
In <331581...@mail.nettally.com>, Russ Pangratz <rp...@mail.nettally.com> writes:
>I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
>tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
>water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
>awhile but starts again. What should I do??
If this sound is indeed coming from the air valve, you should get a
replacement valve (and a valve core wrench) from an auto parts place.
Replace the valve and then repressurize the tank according to
manufacturer's directions.
But what you're hearing may simply be the sound of water flowing out of
the tank.
Dan Hicks
Hey!! My advice is free -- take it for what it's worth!
http://www.millcomm.com/~danhicks
Gerald Ross
Russ Pangratz wrote:
>
> I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
> tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
> water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
> awhile but starts again. What should I do??
>
>
> Russ Pangratz
>
Russ,
My mother has the same setup. She has a submergible pump. Down in the
well a few feet is a valve which lets water run back down the casing
slowly. Air bleeds back into the pipe near the tank when it does this.
The next time the pump starts up, it blows this air into the tank.
In the tank is a float connected to an air bleed valve on the side of
the tank. This lets excess air out of the tank. The whole purpose is
to keep the right amount of air in the tank. Without this system, the
air above the water is gradually absorbed into the water. Soon you will
have a tank of water without air, and the pump will come on whenever you
turn on a faucet, and cut off when the faucet is turned off, negating
the purpose of a tank, and burning out your pump rather quickly.
--
Gerald Ross Marshall, TX
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Lane
Russ Pangratz wrote:
>
> I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
> tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
> water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
> awhile but starts again. What should I do??
> --
>
>
> Russ Pangratz
> Tallahassee Vineyard Christian Fellowship
> http://www.nettally.com/vcftally
>
> GIVE HIM THE HIGHEST PRAISE !!
It sounds like you have a system tht uses an air volume control and
snifter valve set up. This would be normally used where you want the
water to flow back out of the pipe (like we used to use in the winter so
it would not freeze.) If you have this type of system, the air noise is
normal.
You would not be using this system if you have a "bladder" type holding
tank. If you have a bladder type tank, you have a leaking schrader
valve. If this is the case, you are losing the charge in your bladder,
and eventually your pump will begin to "quick cycle". After you fix the
valve, pressurize the tank to 2 pounds less than the cut out pressure
setting on the pump switch.
--
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><
Lane
La...@lakegeorge-ny.com
Check out http://www.lakegeorge-ny.com/index.htm
You'll be glad you did!!
Vic Dura
Russ Pangratz <rp...@mail.nettally.com> wrote:
>I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
>tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
>water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
>awhile but starts again. What should I do??
Try replacing the needle valve just like you would on a bicycle tire.
Here are the steps:
1) shut well pump
2) open your lowest faucet and allow all water to drain, shut faucet
3) replace needle valve
4) pressure air tank to whatever it's supposed to be
5) re-prime (if needed) and turn on pump
6) purge pipes by opening the faucets one at a time until air is out
If the above doesn't work, then you should try to replace the whole
air valve next.
--
Vic Dura (vpd...@hiwaay.net) DuraHaven, Rogersville AL 35652
David Buxton
The old style preassure tanks were simply tanks. You need some captured
air in such a tank. This air would slowly go into solution and so you had
to pump air in once in awhile. If this was your type of tank I'd expect
the tire style valve to leak out all the air and would soon enough start
dripping water.
The newer preassure tanks have bladder inside. Air is supposed to be
trapped between the bladder and the tank. And you use that tire type
spiggot to add air if necessary. But, if that spiggot is leaking, then
I'd think it would soon enough run out of air and quit leaking.
If a tank does not have an air volume, then the preassure switch will be
constantly turning the pump on and off and that will wear out the pump
considering that most of the wear and tear on a pump is during start up.
A few years ago my house, that we bought, had a well with a no bladder
tank. To my surprise, the well tended to add air to the tank. So, I
added a little faucet that let me blead off air once or twice a week.
Before adding the little faucet I had to turn off the pump's circuit
breaker, open a faucet and let the tank drain down to zero preassure.
That belched a lot of air into the plumbing. Then I'd turn the circuit
breaker back on and let the faucet run intill it was done kicking air.
Then I'd run a few other faucets until they quit kicking air. The little
faucet made the procedure a whole lot simpler and faster.
Gary Slusser
Russ Pangratz <rp...@mail.nettally.com> wrote in article
<331581...@mail.nettally.com>...
> I have a well with a holding tank and a little air nozzle (like on a
> tire) that is on the pipe. It constantly makes a hissing noise and when
> water is being used it gets louder. I wiggle the needle and it stops for
> awhile but starts again. What should I do??
>
You may not have any problem at all. In some cases this is needed to allow
air into the pressure tank. What problem are you having? Low water
pressure, loss of prime, short cycling of the pump, or do you just want an
explanation of this valve?
Gary
Russell Bennett
You should not have to bleed off air in a free air tank. The air is
added deliberately through valves. About a third of the way up the tank,
there is a pressure gauge with a float and air relief valve. When the
water level drops below the height of the gauge, the float drops, opening
the air relief valve. The gauge and float assembly is inexpensive and is
easily unscrewed and replaced. Could be that the air relief on your tank
is clogged or the float is jammed. --Russ
Tom Albano
David Buxton wrote:
>
> The old style preassure tanks were simply tanks. You need some captured...
> The newer preassure tanks have bladder inside....
> If a tank does not have an air volume, then the preassure switch will be
> constantly turning the pump on and off and that will wear out the pump
> considering that most of the wear and tear on a pump is during start up.
>
What is the proper way to check and or adjust the air pressure in a
bladder
type tank?? (I know that you use the air valve..What should the pressure
be adjusted to?)
Gary Slusser
Tom, the proper air pressure is set at 1-2 lb.. less than the well pump
(cut in) pressure switch setting. This must be done without ANY water in
the tank/plumbing. You have to have an accurate air gauge. First you select
what pressure setting you want to use ex; 30-50 psi, set air at 29 (cold
water will decrease this to 28 psi). When you are done you then adjust the
pr. switch setting to cut in the pump at 30 and cut out at 50+, maintain
minimum of 20 psi differential. You can't tell much of anything checking
the air pressure with water in the tank, except if you get water; then the
bladder is leaking, replace tank with new. DANGER: YOU ARE PLAYING WITH
240v (most installations). This is rather simple but if you aren't
experienced in it, maybe a pro. And sometimes someone has been there before
and it is hell to get the differential set. Be prepared to use 150+/-
gallons of water in getting the switch setting right. And you need a good
water pr. gauge, none of this sticking and pounding on it type to get it to
read some pressure. Be prepared, depending on condition, to replace the
switch.
Gary
Tom Albano <alb...@ct.picker.com> wrote in article
<33242F...@ct.picker.com>...
> David Buxton wrote:
<snip> >
> > If a tank does not have an air volume, then the preassure switch will
be
> > constantly turning the pump on and off and that will wear out the pump
This is called 'short cycling'
Jean-Pierre Magnan
Tom Albano <alb...@ct.picker.com> wrote:
> David Buxton wrote:
> >
> > The old style preassure tanks were simply tanks. You need some captured...
>
> > The newer preassure tanks have bladder inside....
>
> > If a tank does not have an air volume, then the preassure switch will be
> > constantly turning the pump on and off and that will wear out the pump
> > considering that most of the wear and tear on a pump is during start up.
> >
>
> What is the proper way to check and or adjust the air pressure in a
> bladder
> type tank?? (I know that you use the air valve..What should the pressure
> be adjusted to?)
>
> Tom
> alb...@ct.picker.com
Well, on mine, the bladder pressure has to be 30 pounds per square feet
when the system is at rest (not pressurized). My pressure switch is set
@ 30 (low) and 60 pounds (high).
Hope this helps
Jean-Pierre