Automobile engine cleaning using mixture of kerosene and oil
jasmin
dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
with this old practice???
jasmin
hal...@aol.com
good chance that will ruin the engine...
change oil, add slick 50 its a super lubricant, and may help.
oil additives are worlds better than years ago, and engines dont get
as dirty inside, unless you go way too long between oil changes.
but no oil cleaner or additive will fix a worn out part like a worn
out cam lobe......
best wishes
Nate Nagel
I wouldn't do it on an engine that I really cared about, but I think it
has a good chance of working. Sounds like a sticky hydraulic lifter and
that's the kind of thing that a good flush can rectify. Might want to
try something like Auto-RX on an otherwise good engine though. No
personal experience but it sounds like one of the few additive/flush
products that doesn't make the guys at BITOG shudder in horror.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Rick-Meister
lifter, doing an engine flush is the best way to blow up your engine.
Sure it dissolves all the loose stuff during the short run. But it
also softens the baked on stuff that breaks loose later on and clogs
oil ports. Can you say engine seize?
Read this article on my car blog about engine flushing
http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/scam-alert-engine-flushwallet-flush.html
One trick that's a LOT safer is to add 1 pint of transmission fluid to
your oil. The low viscosity and high detergent factor can loosen up a
sticky lifter. Never add more than a pint. Change the oil as soon as
the lifter stops making noise (usually a few days driving).
If the ATF doesn't do the trick, you've got a more serious problem,
which would NEVER be solved by doing a flush.
I've seen too many engines seize up after a flush. It's just not a
safe procedure. Never was.
Steve Barker
I'm the last guy to EVER believe in snake oils, but I'll tell you what,
you go get you a can of RESTORE from auto parts or walmart and i'll bet
the noise will go away IF it's just a sticky lifter. It won't fix worn
parts. It's in a chrome, black and red can. Get the big v-8 size.
s
Steve Barker
OH and BTW, the kerosene procedure won't hurt. But it probably won't
help either. Kerosene does not cut the varnish that causes sticky lifters.
s
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
It still works. Just be carefull.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<hal...@aol.com> wrote:
>On Feb 7, 12:18?pm, jasmin <porky...@podunkhollow.com> wrote:
>> Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
>> dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
>> and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
>> and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
>> longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
>> want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
>> when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
>> The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
>> with this old practice???
>
>good chance that will ruin the engine...
>
>change oil, add slick 50 its a super lubricant, and may help.
Don't waste your money on snake oil.
>
>oil additives are worlds better than years ago, and engines dont get
>as dirty inside, unless you go way too long between oil changes.
>
>but no oil cleaner or additive will fix a worn out part like a worn
>out cam lobe......
>
>best wishes
If the lifter is sticky you can buy Rislone or Marvel Mystery oil, or
you can use kerosene.
If the cam lobe is worn it won't fix it, but usually a worn lobe does
NOT quiet down when it warms up.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Not very quickly, at any rate - but I have had it work. I like MMO
better though - and using ATF you can go to 25% if you are not going
to drive it hard or long.
>s
C & E
<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message
news:amtro4tit1fmhaqt8...@4ax.com...
What makes Slick 50 'snake oil' and Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone not? Not
a flame. I just want to know.
TIA,
Chuck
Nate Nagel
The makers of Slick 50 were actually sued by DuPont because of their use
of PTFE ("Teflon") because of concerns of engine damage and DuPont's
assertion that it was impossible for PTFE to behave the way that Slick
50 claimed inside an engine.
Eric in North TX
I often throw a quart of ATF in about a week before the oil change.
ATF is very high detergent, and will knock a lot of dirt loose,& hold
it in suspension so when you do your oil change it gets flushed out.
When you change your oil catch it after a highway run, the drain plug
should be so hot you have a hard time handling it.
I've done the flush kerosene flush, i can't say it is all that
effective, & BTW diesel is pretty much oil and kerosene, so that works
too.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
What it claims to do. Slick 50 is a Teflon suspension which claims to
coat/impregnate the metal parts with a friction reducer. The
manufacturer of Teflon, DuPont, says their product MUST NOT be used in
an engine. I've tried the stuff and found no increase in fuel mileage
over the duration of the test and only minor reduction in operating
temperatures. A total waste of money. Their FUEL SYSTEM product
Synchron,works about as well as MMO when used in the fuel system.
However, they call it an "8,000 km" fuel treetment, making it sound
like there is some residual action. All it really means is if you use
it every 8000 km you will keep engine combustion chamber deposits in
check.
Rislone and MMO are simply solvents/detergents/oxidation inhibitors to
reduce the viscosity of the oil when cold,disolve gums and carbon
deposits, and help prevent further deposit formation. When used as
directed they do EXACTLY what they claim to do. By removing deposits
that cause rings to stick they will reduce oil consumption and improve
compression if sticky rings are the problem. By removing gum from
lifters they will quiet noisy engines if sticky/dirty lifters are the
problem. By removing deposits from oil galeries, rocker shafts, etc
they will improve lubrication to the valve train, reducing wear and
noise - if reduced oil flow due to deposit buildup is the problem.
Now, the thing is, with extended drain intervals on hot-running highly
stressed engines deposit buildup IS a known and well documented
problem - and removing the offending deposits WILL improve the
performance, sound, and life of the engine. These are 2 products that
when used as directed WILL do what they claim.
I've used both over 40 years with very good results. MMO added to an
aircraft engine that had sat for a few years and had
compression/leakdown test results that indicated the engine should NOT
fly came back up to PERFECT readings within less than 20 minutes of
ground run-up.
Added to the fuel it also helps remove/reduce lead buildup on valve
stems of engines like the older Continental 85 HP that were designed
to run on 87 octane avgas (which had less lead than today's LL100
which is about the only "avgas" you can buy most places today)which
causes "morning sickness" - or sticking valves when the engine is
first started.
CJT
--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
Jim2009
"Rick-Meister" <Rick-m...@noemail.net> wrote in message
news:jklro4l78842qfg0c...@4ax.com...
> If your engine has that much sludge that you think it's clogging a
> lifter, doing an engine flush is the best way to blow up your engine.
> Sure it dissolves all the loose stuff during the short run. But it
> also softens the baked on stuff that breaks loose later on and clogs
> oil ports. Can you say engine seize?
>
> Read this article on my car blog about engine flushing
>
> http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/scam-alert-engine-flushwallet-flush.html
>
> One trick that's a LOT safer is to add 1 pint of transmission fluid to
> your oil. The low viscosity and high detergent factor can loosen up a
> sticky lifter. Never add more than a pint. Change the oil as soon as
> the lifter stops making noise (usually a few days driving).
And why is this safer than doing an engine flush?
>
> If the ATF doesn't do the trick, you've got a more serious problem,
> which would NEVER be solved by doing a flush.
>
> I've seen too many engines seize up after a flush. It's just not a
> safe procedure. Never was.
How is that? Did you do the flushes? Your shop? Your friends? I think
you're just BS'ing down your leg.
I've used Gunk engine flush on 4-5 cars with no problems. I think my Dad
said they used Kerosene in the old days.
Cheers,
Jim
Stormin Mormon
wicked piston rod knock in my last Blazer. Tried a couple
different brand of oil, and tried heavier weights. Catsrol
was the brand that quieted the rod knock for more than two
days.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"jasmin" <pork...@podunkhollow.com> wrote in message
news:elfro4tfpgisbab2m...@4ax.com...
hal...@aol.com
fall off. So far my highest mileage vehicle when retired to junk yard
was a 1990 caravan with about 450,000 miles or so. A little unsure
cause the odometer broke for awhile.:) Although It had a engine swap
near the end, maybe 400,000 miles
In any case my older vans get noisey lifters etc. Slick 50 silences
that, espically the noise after a vehicle sits for awhile./ I devote
one van to big deliveries and back up if the primary one breaks....
Never checked mileage or temperature but that noise disappears.
I use it every few oil changes. so the cost isnt a killer
Nate Nagel
sorry, I was mistaken, it was the FTC that sued. DuPont merely testified.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50fcn.html
gpsman
> The makers of Slick 50 were actually sued by DuPont because of their use
> of PTFE ("Teflon") because of concerns of engine damage and DuPont's
> assertion that it was impossible for PTFE to behave the way that Slick
> 50 claimed inside an engine.
I don't know what's "possible" but when Slick 50 first hit the market
I saw a lawnmower engine supposedly treated with it run for about an
hour with no oil in the crankcase. It had supposedly been running all
day every day the previous week.
A couple years later I dumped some in my '81 Olds-88/350 beater and
didn't change the oil for about a year.
In -30 temps that was the only car on the block that would start, and
I mean two pumps of the throttle hit the key and vroom.
I parked that thing for almost 3 years before giving it to an out-of-
work neighbor with 5 kids that had his wife and month old infant
killed in a head-on in their only vehicle.
Threw a new battery in it and, vroom.
-----
- gpsman
Smitty Two
Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net> wrote:
Shit. Sounds like they're pretty much forbidden to say anything that
would make anyone want to buy the stuff. Are they still in business?
Oren
wrote:
>Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
I've used kerosene to flush a lifter <older hydraulic>; as you
suggest, NOT the same approach.
When a quart low on oil, just add less than a quart of kerosene to an
already warm engine. Drive it for a short rode trip and then change
the oil. If it works, and cleans any *speck of sand* out of the lifter
it will be noticed. Any worn parts will still be noticed as damaged
and needs repair.
The Marvel Mystery Oil suggested it a good idea, imho.
I've also used Auto Transmission fluid in fuel systems. A full tank of
fuel and one quart to ATF in the tank. It cleans the system, carb and
removes moisture. Granted these were older vehicles... Also have added
ATF to engine oil as mentioned above. Many oils have had detergents in
them.
It is an old practice, but they worked...
Oren
<gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
>I don't know what's "possible" but when Slick 50 first hit the market
>I saw a lawnmower engine supposedly treated with it run for about an
>hour with no oil in the crankcase. It had supposedly been running all
>day every day the previous week.
<bubble pop>
I recall State Fair(s), that had a 6 Cyl. engine running for hours on
end. I forget the *lubricant* they were hawking at the time.
I think the lube looked like molasses, only lighter in color... honey
color.
Ashton Crusher
How do you know it wouldn't have come back to perfect readings without
the MMO if you had simply changed the oil and run it for 20 minutes?
Nate Nagel
Well, yeah, that was the point - that the FTC didn't believe that it did
any of that stuff (and DuPont was a little unhappy about non-approved
uses of PTFE)
http://skepdic.com/slick50.html
I believe that at some point they had to stop using the word Teflon in
their ads even though they correctly labeled it as a DuPont trademark
when DuPont told them to knock it the hell off. I think at one point
DuPont was trying to forbid the sale of PTFE to the makers of Slick 50
because they so vehemently opposed its use in oil additives. My memory
may be faulty however so best to try to verify all this.
Here's a page with lots of info on other legal shenanigans related to
oil additives:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/index.html
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Lets just say it was not Slick 50, Blue Coral, or Quaker State.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
ANd who's to say it would not have done the same without.
As for the "no oil engine" demonstration, that has also been called
into question by the FTC if I remember correctly - and I have seen
engines idle for hours without oil.With NO slick 50 or other snake oil
added.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
>
>"Rick-Meister" <Rick-m...@noemail.net> wrote in message
>news:jklro4l78842qfg0c...@4ax.com...
>> If your engine has that much sludge that you think it's clogging a
>> lifter, doing an engine flush is the best way to blow up your engine.
>> Sure it dissolves all the loose stuff during the short run. But it
>> also softens the baked on stuff that breaks loose later on and clogs
>> oil ports. Can you say engine seize?
>>
>> Read this article on my car blog about engine flushing
>>
>> http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/scam-alert-engine-flushwallet-flush.html
>>
>> One trick that's a LOT safer is to add 1 pint of transmission fluid to
>> your oil. The low viscosity and high detergent factor can loosen up a
>> sticky lifter. Never add more than a pint. Change the oil as soon as
>> the lifter stops making noise (usually a few days driving).
>
>And why is this safer than doing an engine flush?
Not as agressive. Some of the engine flushes are nothing more than
stoddard fluid (varsol) and have no lubrication qualities. They also
sometimes flake the deposits off like chunks of anthacite coal instead
of disolving them.
>
>>
>> If the ATF doesn't do the trick, you've got a more serious problem,
>> which would NEVER be solved by doing a flush.
>>
>> I've seen too many engines seize up after a flush. It's just not a
>> safe procedure. Never was.
>
>How is that? Did you do the flushes? Your shop? Your friends? I think
>you're just BS'ing down your leg.
Well, We blew up my brother's 66 Valiant back in '71 by flushing it
with an agressive flush. It ran about 5 miles after the oil change.
When we pulled it apart the oil pickup screen was plugged with
"clinkers" He had just gotten it and someone had not maintained it too
well - the rockers had made channels in the sludge in the rocker
cover. We had done the flush in anticipation of pulling the cover and
adjusting the valves.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Motor Honey, STP,, Bardahl 2, Lucas, or virtually any other VI
improver would do the same job at a lot lower cost. 20W50 oil and the
proper oil filter will do it too.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
Because we tried it - a couple times. Owner of the engine was just
about ready to tear it down for a rebuild when I suggested the MMO. I
had a bottle in the truck, and 20 minutes later, it was fixed.
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
>On Feb 7, 12:18?pm, jasmin <porky...@podunkhollow.com> wrote:
>> Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
>> dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
>> and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
>> and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
>> longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
>> want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
>> when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
>> The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
>> with this old practice???
>
>good chance that will ruin the engine...
>
>change oil, add slick 50 its a super lubricant, and may help.
>
>oil additives are worlds better than years ago, and engines dont get
>as dirty inside, unless you go way too long between oil changes.
>
>but no oil cleaner or additive will fix a worn out part like a worn
>out cam lobe......
>
>best wishes
I would never use Slick 50. When they first marketed the
stuff they destroyed many engines. I believe they have reformulated
the product, but there is just no reason to use it.
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
>Years ago when our engine oil got very dirty, we would drain out the
>dirty oil, then add two quarts of kerosene and 2 quarts of clean oil
>and run the engine for 15 minutes. Then drain out the dirty mixture
>and then add new fresh oil. The oil would then remain clean for the
>longest time. I have one hydraulic valve that must be hanging up and
>want to try this to see if I can free it up. The tappet is very noisey
>when the engine is cold but then quiets when it warms up.
>The engine is a V6 Buick Century. Anyone have recommendations or agree
>with this old practice???
Don't use that old 1950's trick. You are not driving a 1950's
car. It can damage modern cars.
There are a few additives that might be used as a last chance
for a cheap fix, but don't expect too much. I would choose Marvel
Mystery myself if I had to, but I suspect I would just really fix the
problem.
Modern engines are far different than the 50's. They demand
different oils, many need synthetic oils.
Steve Barker
Pure bullshit. The bearings are still aluminum, the pistons are still
aluminum, the crank is still cast iron. Other than the fact that the
new engines are built a lot looser, for less friction, there is
virtually no difference in the bottom end.
s
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
You are saying that the 1950's engines used aluminum pistons?
I believe you will find that overall modern engines are a little
tighter not looser.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<ichase...@not.hotmail.com> wrote:
Actually,The theory is they are built TIGHTER which is why lighter
oils are used. In reality they are built about the same, on average,
but the tolerances are a lot better. MUCH more uniform.
The old oils will work, but not as long, and will foul up some of the
new controls. Can't have high zinc oils any more because they foul up
the catalytic converters if the oil is burned. Stuff like that.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Many 1950's engines DID use aluminum pistons, but most used cast iron
(chevy stovebolt was the biggest seller)
Steve Barker
'80's, and the general tolerances are wider. And yes, the 50's engines
had aluminum pistons. Can't imagine they were ever anything else.
steve
Steve Barker
the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
engines at a time.
And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
certification for every new engine.
steve
Nate Nagel
Some very old engines had cast iron pistons, but that was many years
ago. If there were any used in autos of the 50s, they must have been
old designs even then. The oldest engine I've personally had apart was
a Studebaker V-8 whose design dates to 1951; that had Al pistons. I
suspect that the Commander six (1933-ish?) also did, but I don't trust
my memory on that nor did a quick google confirm it.
nate
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<ichase...@not.hotmail.com> wrote:
Well, cast iron pistons were very common for many years, and please
check your specifications. Bearing clearances have stayed very close
to what they have been ever since full pressure lubrication became
standard and the running clearance of the pistons (when fully warm) is
the same or a bit tighter. Cam ground, eliptical, and hypereutectic
pistons have reduced piston slap when cold. Engines are only "looser"
in that the rings provide less resistance (friction) because they are
only half as wide as the "old school" piston rings, and the cyl wall
and ring finishes are much finer - which contribute to the
significantly reduced cyl wall wear. The "new generation" lubricants
help get the most out of this new mechanical technology - but they
will generally run just fine on the older oils - for a lot shorter
time.
The latest modification to engine oils, the removal of zinc high
pressure friction reduction compounds, was mandated entirely for
emmissions reasons, as the compounds required to keep the zinc in
suspension poison the catalytic converters if the engines consume any
of the oil - and with 0W30 and 5W20 oils SOME is going to get past the
rings during the mandatedemissions guarantee period.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
The Chevy "StoveBolt" six had cast iron pistons right up untill 1962
- Also known as the "cast iron wonder"
It got full pressure lube and hydraulic lifters back in 1953
(pwerglide only) and 1954
SteveB
half as long as I would a regular oil change. Old timers used to use a
quart of diesel. It works to free up hydraulic lifters, and since we have
few hot rodders, most 99.999999999999999999% of the population has
hydraulics, not solid lifters. I DO NOT do this if I am going to drive
that distance at highway speeds, but rather if I am going to do a mix of
freeway speeds and round town driving. Drain, and change oil. I also like
to use a probe that fits through the drain hole and sprays a high pressure
jet onto the screen that is over the oil pick up in the pan. This dislodges
crud that accumulates on the screen and inside the pan that normally does
not drain out in a regular oil change. First time, put a filter under the
outflow, and spend a full 15 minutes, or until you stop getting crap out,
which will be 30 minutes if you really have a long extension and work it.
Extends the life of motors tremendously. If you have a parts washer, this
will do, but the higher the pressure, the more crud you will kick loose. A
magnet in the drain plug also picks up ferrous metal fragments, and the new
supermagnets epoxied onto the drain plug catches anything ferrous that is
floating in the oil.
Advice from an old fart hotrodder who cut his teeth on '56 Chevies and 300
hp 327's.
imho, jmho, ymmv, etc, etc, etc
Run it like you stole it.
Steve
Ashton Crusher
Thanks for the reply. So often people don't have that kind of basis
for their claims and then they get really mad because the question is
asked.
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
<ichase...@not.hotmail.com> wrote:
..
>>
>the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
>the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
>engines at a time.
Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.
I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.
>
>And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
>certification for every new engine.
Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
the oil it uses.
>
>steve
cl...@snyder.on.ca
>On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
><ichase...@not.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>..
>>>
>>the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
>>the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
>>engines at a time.
>
> Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
>in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.
>
> I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
>used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
>describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.
Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20?
Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold
than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin
out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better
fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.
>
>>
>>And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
>>certification for every new engine.
>
> Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
>the oil it uses.
>
Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo
deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like
Rotella T 15W40.
And there is a fair bit of oil available out there that does not meet
the latest and highest spec.
>
>>
>>steve
sligoNo...@hotmail.com
>On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:14:23 -0500, sligoNo...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 20:29:46 -0600, Steve Barker
>><ichase...@not.hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>..
>>>>
>>>the lighter oils are purely a gas saving thing. Has nothing to do with
>>>the lubricating requirements. It saves gas when figured on a million
>>>engines at a time.
>>
>> Sorry, but I can't really buy that. The lighter oils may be
>>in part for better mileage but they are also for better protection.
>>
>> I wonder how many people realize that the first number is only
>>used to describe the oil when it is cold and the second number
>>describes the oil when it is at operating temperatures.
>
>Yes, so? what would be wrong with a 0W50 in place of a 5W20?
All else being equal and assuming that 50W when hot would meet
the needs of the engine and that 0 would not be too light when cold
(hardly seems likely to me) than it should be fine.
>Cold lubrication would be a non-issue because Ow flows better cold
>than 5W, and hot protection would be better because 50 doesn't thin
>out as much hot as 20 - The ONLY reason to use a 5W20 would be better
>fuel mileage due to thinner oil requiring less power to pump.
>>
>>>
>>>And you can't buy 'old' oil anyway. Nearly EVERY oil on the shelf has
>>>certification for every new engine.
>>
>> Certainly not mine. I drive a diesel and it is picky about
>>the oil it uses.
>>
>Picky how? Is it a Turbo Deisel? Then it needs the top line turbo
>deisel oil. Otherwise MOST deisels will run any good C rated oil like
>Rotella T 15W40.
I use 5W40 CF Rotella myself, but that is for my 2002 TDI I
don't believe it meets the requirements of the current 2009 VW US spec
diesel.