35" Storm door?
dgk
special order so much more expensive. I suppose I could add a wood
strip or two and make it 34, but that seems an odd way to handle it.
Having never replaced a storm door before, I could use a bit of input.
Seems easy enough, three hinges and I have a new door.
Edwin Pawlowski
"dgk" <d...@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:9qome4t4pstkt2p4h...@4ax.com...
Check that you are measuring properly; actual door versus opening. 35" is
not standard and I've never run across one in a house built since about 1960
or so.
Red Green
4ax.com:
As Edwin said, measure the actual existing door slab and see what it is.
Does the door have brick molding on the outside? Check the instructions
on the storm door box or pull them out of the box in the store. It
probably says fits width(s) xxx to yyy / heights aaa to bbb.
Only thing I can think of to make the opening for the storm door oddball
is some kind of adhoc molding/trimming was done.
> Seems easy enough, three hinges and I have a new door.
You have a couple of more metal frame pieces on the top and latch side to
install. May or may not have to cut them. Remember, it's a lot easier to
make it shorter than longer. I often am overly conservative and cut
things more than once. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. If your door opening where the
storm door will go is not square, things will not be as smooth as you
would like.
Red Green
news:Xns9B30C531C...@216.168.3.70:
> dgk <d...@somewhere.com> wrote in
> news:9qome4t4pstkt2p4h14vhp17s3b3975nhe@ 4ax.com:
>
>> I can find 32, 34, and 36. All the homes in my area use 35". That's a
>> special order so much more expensive. I suppose I could add a wood
>> strip or two and make it 34, but that seems an odd way to handle it.
>>
>> Having never replaced a storm door before, I could use a bit of
>> input. Seems easy enough, three hinges and I have a new door.
>
> As Edwin said, measure the actual existing door slab and see what it
> is.
>
> Does the door have brick molding on the outside? Check the
> instructions on the storm door box or pull them out of the box in the
> store. It probably says fits width(s) xxx to yyy / heights aaa to bbb.
Meant to say fits OPENINGS vs width(s)
PanHandler
"Red Green" <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:Xns9B30C6D0...@216.168.3.70...
>> Remember, it's a lot easier to make it shorter than longer. I often am
>> overly conservative and cut things more than once.
Right! It seems no matter how many times I cut something it's always too
short.
RicodJour
>
> Remember, it's a lot easier to
> make it shorter than longer. I often am overly conservative and cut
> things more than once.
That's not cutting, that's filing. ;)
R
dgk
wrote:
The opening is just about 35" at the top, middle,and bottom. The
current door is around 34 3/4" wide, it's sort of hard to tell exactly
because one of the internal corner braces snapped so it's sagging. I
can't fix that brace nor find a replacement so I need a new door.
It looks like a door of the same size should do fine. I'm going to
check the doors and instuctions tomorrow.
SteveBell
> On Tue, 07 Oct 2008 18:32:42 -0500, Red Green <postm...@127.0.0.1>
> wrote:
>
> >Red Green <postm...@127.0.0.1> wrote in
> > news:Xns9B30C531C...@216.168.3.70:
> >
> >> dgk <d...@somewhere.com> wrote in
> >> news:9qome4t4pstkt2p4h14vhp17s3b3975nhe@ 4ax.com:
> >>
> >>> I can find 32, 34, and 36. All the homes in my area use 35".
> That's a >>> special order so much more expensive. I suppose I could
> add a wood >>> strip or two and make it 34, but that seems an odd way
> to handle it.
> >>> Having never replaced a storm door before, I could use a bit of
> >>> input. Seems easy enough, three hinges and I have a new door.
> >> As Edwin said, measure the actual existing door slab and see what
> >> is.
> >>
> >> Does the door have brick molding on the outside? Check the
> >> instructions on the storm door box or pull them out of the box in
> the >> store. It probably says fits width(s) xxx to yyy / heights aaa
> to bbb.
> >
> > Meant to say fits OPENINGS vs width(s)
> >
> >> Only thing I can think of to make the opening for the storm door
> >> oddball is some kind of adhoc molding/trimming was done.
> >>
> >>> Seems easy enough, three hinges and I have a new door.
> >>
> >> You have a couple of more metal frame pieces on the top and latch
> side >> to install. May or may not have to cut them. Remember, it's a
> lot >> easier to make it shorter than longer. I often am overly
> conservative >> and cut things more than once. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. If
> your door opening >> where the storm door will go is not square,
> things will not be as >> smooth as you would like.
>
>
> The opening is just about 35" at the top, middle,and bottom. The
> current door is around 34 3/4" wide, it's sort of hard to tell exactly
> because one of the internal corner braces snapped so it's sagging. I
> can't fix that brace nor find a replacement so I need a new door.
>
> It looks like a door of the same size should do fine. I'm going to
> check the doors and instuctions tomorrow.
It's common to have about 1" of play on the top, left, and right so you
can get the door plumb and square in a rough opening that might not be
plumb and square, so you would look ideally look for a 33" door. The
door is 33" wide, and each side jamb is 3/4", making a total of 34
1/2". Since you can't find a 33" door, get a 32" and add 1/2" of
spacers to each side.
If you're lucky, you'll find a 34" door that _just barely_ fits a 35"
opening. _Don't_ try to squeeze it in. Your door will stick when the
weather changes.
I had one job where I had to remove the 2x4 jack studs that hold up the
header and replace them with 1x4 wood to make a customer-ordered
custom-made door fit, so that's a possibility. It's not as big a job as
it sounds. Just make sure you support the header while you pull out the
2x4s.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX
dgk
Thanks, the whole thing has become more compliated though. My current
door fits into the 35" opening and just has three hinges that screw
right into the door jamb. All the new doors are built into their own
frame.
Rather than use a smaller door, which can make it difficult to get
stuff in or out of the house, the solution appears to be to get a 36"
door and mount it outside of the opening. That seems to be what my
neighbors have done. There is even a kit available that is made for
installing the doors outside of the existing frame.
This means the moulding around the door needs to be pulled off and I
have to do something about the bottom because the new door will be
around 2" further out than the current one. Either some wood across
the bottom or maybe two rows of bricks.
Plus I have to move the doorbell. Time for a nice new one anyway.
Does this make sense?
SteveBell
> > 35" opening. Don't try to squeeze it in. Your door will stick when
> > the weather changes.
> >
> > I had one job where I had to remove the 2x4 jack studs that hold up
> > the header and replace them with 1x4 wood to make a customer-ordered
> > custom-made door fit, so that's a possibility. It's not as big a
> > job as it sounds. Just make sure you support the header while you
> > pull out the 2x4s.
>
> Thanks, the whole thing has become more compliated though. My current
> door fits into the 35" opening and just has three hinges that screw
> right into the door jamb. All the new doors are built into their own
> frame.
>
> Rather than use a smaller door, which can make it difficult to get
> stuff in or out of the house, the solution appears to be to get a 36"
> door and mount it outside of the opening. That seems to be what my
> neighbors have done. There is even a kit available that is made for
> installing the doors outside of the existing frame.
>
> This means the moulding around the door needs to be pulled off and I
> have to do something about the bottom because the new door will be
> around 2" further out than the current one. Either some wood across
> the bottom or maybe two rows of bricks.
>
> Plus I have to move the doorbell. Time for a nice new one anyway.
>
> Does this make sense?
OK, now I'm completely lost. It's time for some photos.
A door is mounted in jambs--top, hinge side, and striker side. When you
take the old door out, you take out the jambs too. You'll then have
left what's called the "rough opening", with just 2x4 studs on each
side and a 2x<something> header at the top. You measure the rough
opening to decide what size door to buy.
Pre-hung doors have the jambs already attached; they're nice and square
and fit correctly. Exterior doors also have a threshold attached. The
side of the package says what size rough opening is needed for that
door. It's nice to have about 1/2" or so on both sides so you can move
the door around and get it square and plumb, then use spacers and
tapered shims to keep it in place.
You can also buy "slab" doors, which come without the jambs. With
these, you reuse the old jambs, or you buy jamb stock and build new
ones yourself. I've never done that because my customers would be
trading labor for materials to pay me to build the jambs, but it
wouldn't be hard.
Whichever way you do it, you end up with a gap between the jamb and the
studs. That gets filled with minimally expanding foam. Then you use
casing to cover up the ugly gap full of foam. That's the stuff that
looks like a picture frame. The outside may be made of a type of casing
called "brick mold".
Suggestion:
Pull the casing off the inside of the door. Measure the space between
the studs to find the rough opening. Measure at the top, middle, and
bottom, then use the minimum measurement.
Post some photos. I'd like to see what's going on here.
Boden
I think what he's describing is a storm door attached to the trim on the
outside face of the door jamb.
aemeijers
'Internal corner braces'? Is this door metal or wood? (I've never seen a
metal storm door that didn't come with it's own frame.) How do the 3
hinges fit on the outside frame? We need to see pictures to make
meaningful suggestions. Do you have a digital camera, and the ability to
post pictures on a photo site, and give a link back here? What are the
dimensions of the slab on the actual house door this storm door fits over?
--
aem sends...
SteveBell
Well, silly me.
I've gotten so used to subject lines that have no bearing on the
message that I don't even read them any more.
My apologies for bad advice.
Better advice: Build a frame of 1-inch-thick wood just right for the
storm door and install it on top of the existing casing.
p.s. At least you're now ready if you want to replace the whole door.
:-)
dgk
<res...@online.newsgroup.invalid> wrote:
...
>> > Suggestion:
>> > Pull the casing off the inside of the door. Measure the space
>> > between the studs to find the rough opening. Measure at the top,
>> > middle, and bottom, then use the minimum measurement.
>> >
>> > Post some photos. I'd like to see what's going on here.
>> >
>> I think what he's describing is a storm door attached to the trim on
>> the outside face of the door jamb.
>
>Well, silly me.
>
>I've gotten so used to subject lines that have no bearing on the
>message that I don't even read them any more.
>
>My apologies for bad advice.
>
>Better advice: Build a frame of 1-inch-thick wood just right for the
>storm door and install it on top of the existing casing.
>
>p.s. At least you're now ready if you want to replace the whole door.
>:-)
Yes, it's a storm door so that makes it easier than dealing with
removal of the main door.
I spent part of the weekend removing the moulding with a pry bar so I
could see what I was dealing with. Once the moulding is off, each side
of the opening has an 8" (roughly) plank attached to the brick and
jamb. I'm not bothering to remove that; I just blew some foam into the
gaps and caulked it.
But those planks only supported the moulding before; now they're going
to have to support a metal door and frame. So I got some
concrete/brick anchor-type things and put a few into each of the
planks. Now they're in pretty firmly.
The door we wanted wasn't in stock though so we have to wait a few
weeks. Once the door is installed, I'll see how much room is left for
some nice new moulding. I'll likely have to add a plank at the bottom
since the current brick step doesn't extend as far as the new door
location.
Well, that's the plan anyway. Thanks for the input.
dgk
This is an old style storm/screen door. It doesn't have a
self-contained frame, it just fits into the jamb. And they don't seem
to make those doors anymore and certainly not in this size.
A year ago the door started sagging after a really bad wind storm. I
took it off and opened it up, and discovered that the door was held
together in each of the four corners by an aluminum (I think) right
angle piece to which the two sides of the door are screwed. It's more
complex than that, the door is made of several interlocking sections.
One of the top two braces was cracked in half and no longer supporting
the door correctly so it was sagging and wouldn't fit in the jamb
anymore.
I couldn't find a replacement piece and can't even find out who
manufactured the door. But none of the local hardware stores, nor even
Home Despot, could suggest anything. I tried a few right-angle braces
and perhaps with better metal-working skills I could get it working
better.
But you know, the door looks like tired and crappy anyway.
navigato...@gmail.com
DerbyDad03
make the correct width for just the door. I did that by using vinyl stock
ripped to the correct thickness to center the door.
I hate expanders. They look like well...expanders.
Ed Pawlowski
wrote:
to sell and install aluminum doors and windows as a sideline and that
is the way we did it. On windows, their is a strip on the side you
can tear off the make smaller to fit.
willshak
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
Red Green
news:ki8ofn$vla$1...@dont-email.me:
Lowes and it's not in yet.
gen...@internet.com
>>I have the same 35in problem because the entry dooor is 36 inches but
>
>to sell and install aluminum doors and windows as a sideline and that
>is the way we did it. On windows, their is a strip on the side you
>can tear off the make smaller to fit.
super glue, and cover the gap around the sides with duct tape.
workinonit
my house was built in 1940's and has a 35" opening. is there a work around
or do I need to special order the door?
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/35-storm-door-335162-.htm
cl...@snyder.on.ca
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to Edwin Pawlowski, workinonit wrote:
>my house was built in 1940's and has a 35" opening. is there a work around
>or do I need to special order the door?
>
The door can be mounted outsude of the jam and use a 36 inch door.
see this from Larson Doors:
https://www.larsondoors.com/storm-doors/storm-doors-how-to-measure
gigi...@gmail.com
Ed Pawlowski
> I am curious to know what you ended up doing. I am in the same situation now. My door measures 35 in. wide. Thanks.
>
the core. I've installed over 100 of them like that.
Door Belle
Current situation. Is the expander route safe for an economic downswing? I is
it more easily gotten into? No one believes me that my door was 35...
BD9000
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/35-storm-door-335162-.htm
Ed Pawlowski
> No one believed me either. 35in storm doors were once extremely common
> up into the 1980s (where the door itself, is exactly 35in wide) - they
> were designed to fit into an exactly 36in wide stud-to-stud opening.
> Sometime in the 1980s the standard was changed. Go figure. (now it's a
> "Custom" door and costs over a grand to buy one). The best thing to do
> is get the next side down, then add extra wood and manually trim out
> (hire a trim carpenter) - You won't be able to do this for less than
> $1000 (yup, all for a lousy storm door!). (I used to do reno, and trust
> me, every other home (from 1960s to 1980s) had 35in doors (in Ky).
>
within a bit over an inch. Never bought a special size at high prices.
Forget the big box stores and check other places.
gfre...@aol.com
>No one believed me either. 35in storm doors were once extremely common up into the 1980s (where the door itself, is exactly 35in wide) - they were designed to fit into an exactly 36in wide stud-to-stud opening. Sometime in the 1980s the standard was changed. Go figure. (now it's a "Custom" door and costs over a grand to buy one). The best thing to do is get the next side down, then add extra wood and manually trim out (hire a trim carpenter) - You won't be able to do this for less than $1000 (yup, all for a lousy storm door!). (I used to do reno, and trust me, every other home (from 1960s to 1980s) had 35in doors (in Ky).
cage doors.
micky
>No one believed me either. 35in storm doors were once extremely common up into the 1980s (where the door itself, is exactly 35in wide) - they were designed to fit into an exactly 36in wide stud-to-stud opening. Sometime in the 1980s the standard was changed. Go figure. (now it's a "Custom" door and costs over a grand to buy one). The best thing to do is get the next side down, then add extra wood and manually trim out (hire a trim carpenter) - You won't be able to do this for less than $1000 (yup, all for a lousy storm door!). (I used to do reno, and trust me, every other home (from 1960s to 1980s) had 35in doors (in Ky).
If they were extremely common, maybe you can find one at one of those
used house parts stores they have now, or even an abandoned house too
damaged to be repaired (There are a couple in the country-side around
here with no windows, no paint) You can find the owner from the county
clerk's office and buy it from him for 50 or 100.
Or when you see a new housing development is going up that will require
tearing down some old houses.
micky
Sleepy becaue I stayed up all night watching election results that
didn't change all night. Of course they barely changed today also.
Allen
Ed Pawlowski
> My door frame out side of front door measures 37 by 81 I need a
> decorative security or screen door
>
measurement of the opening and they will make what you need.
Dean Hoffman
poster starting back in 2008. gave some good advice. You've been around a long time.
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
13 years ago, 9 years ago, 5 years ago,
and even Micky & Fretwell 1 year ago
John T.
Marilyn Manson
> My door frame out side of front door measures 37 by 81 I need a decorative security or screen door
of information?
A typical homeownershub post - one that lacks enough detail to be addressed without a
shitload of speculation and assumptions.
Let's start with this:
You say "security or screen door". Big, big, big difference. Which of those do you really need?
What is it that you are actually asking of us? Do you want us to find you a door? That ain't
gonna happen.
Have you looked up how to measure for a screen door? A security door?
Seriously, what kind of response are you looking for from us?
Sreising18
--
Marilyn Manson
> My door is actually 35” also. 36” won’t fit. House is 23 years old & not sure what to do. Opening is also barely over 35”? So no 36” for me.
>
1 - Avoid the home centers. Find a distributor that the contractors use (most of them will sell
direct to the consumer) or a custom door and window dealer. Search by brand name. Maybe
start with ProVia (quality storm doors) and use their "where to buy" tool. Most stores on the
list will usually carry other brands so starting with specific brands will get you the contact
information you need. You may need a custom door (pricey) but it'll be a good door.
2 - Buy a 34" door and pad out the rough opening with wood or vinyl, 1/2" on each side. Then
trim it out as needed. Depending on what you have now, width-wise, you might have to make
some custom trim, but you'd be surprised how easy it is to layer some flat stock and stock
trim to cover the extra 1/2".
3 - I don't know how the opening for your storm door is currently constructed, but I'd look
closely and see if the opening is actually wider than you think. It's possible that the
opening is already padded out/shimmed for the 35" door and all you need to do is remove
some wood to create wider opening. I'd start by removing the outside trim/brickmold and
see what's behind it. Again, I don't know what you are starting with, so maybe that's not
possible.
#3 is what I was able to do at my house. Once I removed the outside trim, I found that I could
widen the opening for a wider door. Granted, I was replacing both the entry door and storm
door, I ripped out all the extra wood, but I could have just widened the storm door area if I
had too.
Good luck!