Cutting tileboard

gcotterl

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Nov 6, 2009, 11:04:46 AM11/6/09

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The bottom section of an already-installed tileboard panel has been
torn off and the resulting end is very ragged.

How can I cut the ragged end so it's square and even? (I want to
replace the missing section with a section of new tileboard).

(I don't have any power saws (i.e., circular-saw, jigsaws, etc)

Heathcliff

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Nov 6, 2009, 12:12:26 PM11/6/09

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I'm not sure what you mean by "tileboard" but if you mean a cement
board such as Durock or Wonderboard, there is a cheap and effective
hand tool for cutting it. Go to the big box home improvement store to
where they have the cement board, and ask for a carbide scoring tool.
It's basically a bit of carbide with a handle, cost around $10. You
drag it along the board to create a score line. If the board were not
mounted you could score and snap, as you would with drywall using a
utility knife. But since it's already mounted, you can just score
repeatedly until you score all the way through. The tool works well
on plaster walls, too. -- H

gcotterl

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Nov 6, 2009, 1:03:43 PM11/6/09

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The panel is made by Decorative Panels International (DPI)
The label says: 1/8" embossed tileboard
Model #627 - Design: "Toned White". (The face has shiny white
squares; the back is tempered hardboard)

The "application instructions" say the (un-installed) panel can be cut
with a fine-toothed handsaw. But how do I cut the panel that's
already stuck on the wall?

jamesgangnc

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Nov 6, 2009, 1:34:07 PM11/6/09

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Use a good straight edge and repeatedly score it with a utility knife.

HeyBub

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Nov 6, 2009, 2:41:31 PM11/6/09

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Another job for the Harbor Freight Multifunction Tool? (or similar)

Be sure you wear saftey glasses and do not operate tool when wet or under
the influence of alcohol (you, not the tool).

Jon Danniken

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Nov 6, 2009, 5:46:24 PM11/6/09

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The orange angle grinder (4.5") from harbor freight is $18 with the coupon
(or $20 on sale right now). A segmented diamond blade for said angle
grinder is fifteen bucks.

The problem is that cement backer board releases a lot of silicone dust when
it is cut by a power tool, so you would need to isolate the work area, wear
a respirator (safety goggles, hearing protection, old colthes) and clean up
***thoroughly***.

Jon

gcotterl

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Nov 6, 2009, 9:16:25 PM11/6/09

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Hi Jon,

The panel is NOT a cement backer board. Its face has shiny white
squares and the back is tempered hardboard.

Gary

Jon Danniken

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Nov 6, 2009, 9:32:18 PM11/6/09

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Oh okay, I gotcha, that laminated stuff. I'd use a straightedge and several
new razor blades in a good razor blade knife. Hold the straightedge
securely and keep cutting passes (away from your fingers) until you make it
through. Flip the blades and replace them frequently - they are a
consumable item. It's gonna take a lot of passes, so be patient.

Jon

propman

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Nov 6, 2009, 10:15:47 PM11/6/09

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Here in Canada it's known as barker board. Might want to take a look at
their site for tips:

http://www.barker.ca/main.php

charlie

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Nov 9, 2009, 3:00:50 PM11/9/09

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"Jon Danniken" <jondanS...@yaSPAMhoo.com> wrote in message
news:7ljna2F...@mid.individual.net...

> gcotterl wrote:
>> The bottom section of an already-installed tileboard panel has been
>> torn off and the resulting end is very ragged.
>>
>> How can I cut the ragged end so it's square and even? (I want to
>> replace the missing section with a section of new tileboard).
>>
>> (I don't have any power saws (i.e., circular-saw, jigsaws, etc)
>
> The orange angle grinder (4.5") from harbor freight is $18 with the coupon
> (or $20 on sale right now). A segmented diamond blade for said angle
> grinder is fifteen bucks.
>
> The problem is that cement backer board releases a lot of silicone dust
> when

that would be silicon, not silicone. they're way different.