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DUCT BOARD Question

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Tocapet

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May 1, 2005, 8:20:33 PM5/1/05
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My A/C installer just installed my new heat pump system using duct board to
make the transition from the air handler to the plenum. I noticed heating
elements just inside the top of the air handler. These are maybe 4" - 6"
from the fiberglass ductboard. Is there any danger of fire when the heat
coils are energized? Does ductboard burn? He sealed the inside corners
with duct sealer. This is a caulking that looks like tile mastic.

The air handler is Rheem RBHK.


stretch

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May 1, 2005, 8:35:55 PM5/1/05
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He should have installed a sheet metal sleeve on the indoor unit, but I
have seen a lot of units installed without the sleeve, and I have never
seen the ductboard damaged by heat that way. If you hold a torch flame
to the ductboard, you will burn a hole in it, but the fusible links &
temperature limits will hold the heater temperatures to about 180
degrees up to about 250º maximum. Using duct mastic was a good thing.
The heater element should be 6" from the ductboard, but he has that
covered.

Stretch

Tocapet

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May 1, 2005, 9:03:56 PM5/1/05
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OK, good. Another question... He left the DIP switches in the factory
settings, so the system blows much harder than the old one did. I have
heard that these systems should be quiet. Should I reset the switches to
reduce the blower speed or just live with it.


"stretch" <sixf...@sccoast.net> wrote in message
news:1114994154.9...@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...


He should have installed a sheet metal sleeve on the indoor unit, but I
have seen a lot of units installed without the sleeve, and I have never
seen the ductboard damaged by heat that way. If you hold a torch flame
to the ductboard, you will burn a hole in it, but the fusible links &
temperature limits will hold the heater temperatures to about 180

degrees up to about 250ē maximum. Using duct mastic was a good thing.

stretch

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May 1, 2005, 9:14:39 PM5/1/05
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Tocapet,

Dip switch settings depend on what size outdoor unit you have. I
measure air flow with a highly accurate device called a flow hood.
HALF of the systems that I measure have 200 CFM per ton OR LESS!! The
systems SHOULD have about 400 CFM per ton! Probably your old system,
like most systems, had too little air flow. Now you are getting close
to what you should have. If the grilles are noisy, you can have him
install more streamlined grilles with wider spacings between the fins,
they will be quieter. Remember, AIR Conditioning begins with AIR!

By the way, for the best cooling season humidity control, the dip
switches should be set to ENHANCED mode. (Unless you live in the
desert.)

Stretch

Tocapet

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May 1, 2005, 9:59:33 PM5/1/05
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From looking at the installation manual, he didn't set the system up for
2-stage operation. The thermostat has 2-stage heat, 2-stage cool
capability, but he set it up for single-stage. English is not his first
language, although he did the rest of the installation very professionally.
I'm thinking of re-doing the wiring for 2-stage operation.


"stretch" <sixf...@sccoast.net> wrote in message

news:1114996479.8...@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

stretch

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May 1, 2005, 11:23:11 PM5/1/05
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Is the outdoor unit single stage or 2 stage? A normal heat pump is one
stage. The thermostat would be wired for 1 stage cool. The first stage
heat will be the compressor. The second stage heat will be the
auxiliary strip heat - usually W or W2 on the thermostat. There is no
second stage cool. If you have a 2 stage heat pump outdoor unit, you
have two stages of cooling, but usually only two stages of heating just
like before. The third stage of heat, high speed compressor operation
in heat mode, is controlled by the outdoor unit due to outdoor
temperature. Be careful fooling around with the thermostat. You could
fry the control system in a way that is not covered by warranty. If
you think you have a 2 stage outdoor unit, have the contractor come
back and set it up properly. Heat pump thermostats are not DIY stuff.

Stretch

Tocapet

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May 2, 2005, 7:47:39 AM5/2/05
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I was referring to the air handler stages. You said the DIP switches should
be set for enhanced mode. The air handler has dual-stage fan capability.
The condensing unit is single-stage. I have the wiring diagrams.

Air handler = Rheem RHBK 24J145HD 3-ton
Condenser = Rheem Classic RPPB 036JAZ 3-ton.

"stretch" <sixf...@sccoast.net> wrote in message

news:1115004191....@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Tocapet

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May 2, 2005, 9:54:45 AM5/2/05
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In reviewing the wiring diagram the installer used, it appears that he did
set it up correctly for 2-stage heat. IE: 1st-stage heat pump, 2nd-stage
electric backup heat.
(W1 and W2) So, the only thing I am now concerned with is the DIP switch
settings. Do you have any information? As it is now, the A/C comes on full
blast and then when it cycles off, the blower drops to a lower speed for the
last 90 seconds.

By the way, I am near Dallas, Texas.


"Tocapet" <toc...@NOSPAMcharter.net> wrote in message
news:Jrode.27559$Ow2....@fe06.lga...

TURTLE

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May 1, 2005, 11:21:34 PM5/1/05
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"Tocapet" <toc...@NOSPAMcharter.net> wrote in message
news:snede.31528$QR1....@fe04.lga...

This is Turtle.

I don't like Duct board but it will not burn very easily. I use it to put
between the wall and my copper fittings and not burn the wall. Still don't like
it.

TURTLE


stretch

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May 2, 2005, 10:05:09 AM5/2/05
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I am not a Rheem dealer, so I do not know their settings, but that is
not enhanced mode. You are in a high humidity area, so it should be on
enhanced mode. In enhanced mode it will start at 50% for about a
minute, then go to 80% air flow for about 8 more minutes, then go to
100% till the thermostat satisfies. Then it will drop to 50% for about
a minute, then shut off. The installer should be able to do that for
you. By starting at low air flow, the indoor coil gets colder right
off the bat, and takes more moisture out, especially in mild weather
with short run times.

Stretch

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