Re: Hard to Start Stihl FS 36 Trimmer?
ransley
> On May 2, 5:29 pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 2, 4:33 pm, Bob Villa <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > On May 1, 4:00 pm, ransley <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > > > On May 1, 2:28 pm, "W. eWatson" <wolftra...@invalid.com> wrote:
>
> > > > > I've had Subject trimmer for ten years, and of late it has been hard to
> > > > > start. I've probably yanked on the cord about 80 times this morning, and
> > > > > a few times it sputters and dies. I've had it in choke and run
> > > > > positions. Usually run gets it going. The outside temp is 62F. The
> > > > > little transparent fuel clear bulb has lots of fuel in it, as required.
> > > > > There is a bubble in it that may be 1/2" in diameter. I used it the
> > > > > other day for 30 minutes.
>
> > > > > How to proceed?
>
> > > > When my 36 got hard to start the carb was fouled from storing gas in
> > > > it and I had to get it cleaned. Pull the plug after trying and I bet
> > > > its wet and flooded, so use dont flood it if possible. Either-
> > > > starting fluid should help but the final solution might be a carb
> > > > cleaning, a new plug might help, when the plug is out ground it and
> > > > pull the cord to see if the spark is good.
>
> > > Ether is NOT a good idea on a 2-cycle. WD-40 (butane and lube) will
> > > do no harm as primer to start fuel moving again.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Use Either-starting fluid that has Oil added
>
> NOT recommended by experienced 2-cycle techs! BIGGER bang...is not
> necessarily a BETTER bang!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
For starting and not continual use it wont hurt anything, the
cilinders are oil coated and the either I use has oil. Plus its a
vapor it wont wash cilinders nearly as bad as flooding it with
gasolene.
Bob Villa
Well...this is only advice (and caution).
W. eWatson
about two minutes he had it running. I asked him what he did. Two pushes
on the rubber ball to prime it, and set it to Choke. I think it took him
about 10-12 pulls to get it to life. I said I often start with Run. He
said again use Choke.
I got home and did exactly what he did. Nothing after about 15 pulls, so
I switched to Run and with about 8 pulls it was running.
I think my problem is that after I've about gotten to 15-20 strokes, I
prime about 5-6 times, according to the number in the book. I may be
flooding it. I guess that's detected by the pull getting jerky.
30 minutes latter I had chopped down 3' dense weeds in my wife's 20x20
garden, and knocked off about 15 minutes worth of other scattered weeds
around the property. Mission accomplished.
MLD
"W. eWatson" <wolft...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:hrn085$pqi$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
at manufacturer's Tech support. Recommendation was to push the prime bulb
about 14 times (vs. 7 for manual) according to him it would not flood the
engine as the excess fuel just goes around in some sort of loop. Then I
noticed that the fuel supply tube in in the gas tank was pointing down and
at times could actually be out of the fuel while I was pulling away. I
rotated the machine such that the tube was always immersed in fuel when
starting and that made a major difference in getting it running. Minimal
starting problem since I made that adjustment. Also, after too many pulls
and no start, the tech guy said put it in the Run position.
MLD
W. eWatson
> On Mon, 03 May 2010 10:13:38 -0700, "W. eWatson"
> <wolft...@invalid.com>wrote:
> push it at all if you use it once a week. When you push the primer it
> shoots gas into the carb venturi and you will flood the cylinder if
> you push it several times. From your description I would push the
> primer twice, set to choke and pull. When you hear it fire for a
> couple strokes reduce the choke amount and pull again. At this point
> it should run for a few seconds or more. If it stays running let it
> run for 15 seconds then reduce the choke while running to half.
> If that doesn't seem to work then reduce the choke a bit before you
> attempt to start it. Most small engine choke butterflies have a small
> hole in them as to not over choke.Make sure yours is clean as it's
> real easy to everchoke a small engine that has no flywheel.
>
>
> Your trimmer should not take 10 or more pulls to start. None of my
> small engine tools like saws, blowers or trimmers take more than
> three. Most only one. My Lawnboy 6 horsepower 2 stroke engine sat all
> winter with gas in it. I pressed the primer 4 times fast, set the
> choke and it started on the first pull. Mowers and blowers have an
> advantage of having a pseudo flywheel in a blade or blower impeller.
> Small trimmer motors around 30cc have to be in good shape since they
> have no momentum without ignition.
Reduce the choke? As far as I can tell, there are two settings, Run and
Choke. This may not be true though. My impression has been the two
positions have a lock feel to them. So what you say above may solve this
problem. I may need to use it tomorrow, so I'll check it out. In fact,
regardless of the need I'll experiment as you indicate. It's use is
mostly confined to the spring when I have to deal with a lot of weeds.
We have 7 acres, and certain areas require the trimmer. Most of the
grass and weeds I'm concerned with are in a 1/3 acre area. The rest is
dealt with differently.
OTP
> I've had Subject trimmer for ten years, and of late it has been hard to
> start. I've probably yanked on the cord about 80 times this morning, and
> a few times it sputters and dies. I've had it in choke and run
> positions. Usually run gets it going. The outside temp is 62F. The
> little transparent fuel clear bulb has lots of fuel in it, as required.
> There is a bubble in it that may be 1/2" in diameter. I used it the
> other day for 30 minutes.
>
> How to proceed?
I have owned my FS36 for almost 15 years. Had it tuned up 4 years
ago. Recently it started to lose power, then last week it just
wouldn't start. I went to local Stihl sales/repair shop with it. They
quoted $90 to fix it, or $149 for a new FS49. I retreated to think it
over. Today, after reading the book carefully, I repaired it and it
runs like new. I cleaned the spark plug, and air cleaner but the item
that isn't mentioned in this thread is the Spark Arrester. I cleaned
that and I believe it was that which made the difference. It was caked
solid black. I removed it, put in in my vice, (clamping it along the
margin of the little screen) and started scrubbing it with a fine
guage wire brush. I kept kept flipping it around and scrubbing and
soon it was as good as new. Put it in, and the engine started up with
one pull! I trimmed all day and it performed like a champ. The
owners manual clearly states that if power starts to fail, to replace
the spark arrester. That is an easy to miss or dismiss
recommendation. Total out of pocket expense = $zero. PS. If you
want to take the rear plastic body cover off to tidy up or just
explore the engine's layout, you will need a 9/64 long-tailed Allen
Wrench.
Oren
wrote:
You make a very good point. Carbon deposits in a spark arrestor or a
carbon clogged muffler are not normally mentioned here, regarding it
being a possible problem.
Thanks.
W. eWatson
Don Phillipson
This normally happens when carburettor components
(diaphragms or springs) are sufficiently worn that they
no longer meet system specifications. The OP did not
say whether his carburettor was ever serviced in 10 years.
Miniature carbs like this do not last for ever.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
Oren
Change the spark plug and try again.
Stormin Mormon
plug out. Might easily be flooded.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:9q1pt51o5ivkbs2gu...@4ax.com...
ransley
When my 36 got hard to start the carb was fouled from storing gas in
W. eWatson
looks like a socket wrench with a lever arm protruding from the side
about 8".
Cranking it without the plug isn't dangerous is it?
Oren
<wolft...@invalid.com> wrote:
>Cranking it without the plug isn't dangerous is it?
Not in my lifetime.
W. eWatson
W. eWatson
Monday I'll take it to the saw shop, and tomorrow likely rent one for a
few hours.
Oren
<wolft...@invalid.com> wrote:
>Pulled the plug. Gave it a few yanks on the cord. Tried again. No start.
>Monday I'll take it to the saw shop, and tomorrow likely rent one for a
>few hours.
Like I mention:
_Change the spark plug and try again._
The Daring Dufas
My friend's trimmer wouldn't run so we got the manual cleaned the
carb, took out the needle valves, sprayed cleaner into the holes,
put the needle valve screws back in using the manual as a guide
for the number of turns open from fully closed and fueled it up.
It cranked and ran on the first pull.
I blew his mind once when I ran a weed eater on compressed air.
TDD
The Daring Dufas
You can test the ignition system of a 2 cycle trimmer by using
compressed air. Put the rubber tip of a blow gun or spark plug
adapter attached to an air compressor tank and the engine will
run on 50psi air. You pressurize it and pull the starter rope
to get it started and it will putt merrily along. You can see
if you get a good spark from the detached plug wire while the
motor spins. It's no mystery if you understand how 2 cycle
engines operate.
TDD
Stormin Mormon
it behind something (or tape it to the side of the machine).
Yanking without the spark plug will help dry out the
cylinder, which is probably flooded. Might restart, then,
after the spark plug is put back in.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"W. eWatson" <wolft...@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:hribgb$lp0$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
ransley
Taking out the plug and just pulling it a few times does and proves
nothing. Was the plug wet indicating flooding? Did you attemp to check
for spark. Starting fluid would be something easy to do that might
make it go. Its only dangerout taking out the plug and pulling the
cord when you stick you foot inside the cilinder.
Joe
Stihl products I have had usually had starting problems with fuel
lines cracking. Worst case was a chain saw only 2 years old, only
worked decently the first year. If you tinker with the carb, a new
fuel line might be a good idea.
Joe
W. eWatson
Oren
<wolft...@invalid.com> wrote:
>On 5/1/2010 7:29 PM, Oren wrote:
>> On Sat, 01 May 2010 18:28:42 -0700, "W. eWatson"
>> <wolft...@invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Pulled the plug. Gave it a few yanks on the cord. Tried again. No start.
>>> Monday I'll take it to the saw shop, and tomorrow likely rent one for a
>>> few hours.
>>
>> Like I mention:
>>
>> _Change the spark plug and try again._
>>
>Still doesn't work. Well, tomorrow it goes to the saw shop for inspection.
Please report back what the shop finds out.
Bob Villa
Ether is NOT a good idea on a 2-cycle. WD-40 (butane and lube) will
ransley
Bob Villa
NOT recommended by experienced 2-cycle techs! BIGGER bang...is not
necessarily a BETTER bang!
Kenny
Thanks I got my FS 36 going. I've had mine for 22 years still going strong.
Nothing like a stihl!
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/hard-to-start-stihl-fs-36-trimmer-439730-.htm
sde...@gmail.com
If the plug is dry and the primer bulb is functioning okay, the carb probably has become gummed-up. A little trick that sometimes works for me (I work on lots of little 2-strokes that use these carbs) is to remove the air cleaner and shoot a 1/2 teaspoon of fuel into the carb's intake using an eye dropper. It's enough to keep the engine running momentarily and MIGHT suck the gummy crap free. If so, and there was gas left in the tank, dump it and mix up an all new fresh batch. Before resigning myself to rebuilding a carb I'll first dump all the gas and put just enough "Seafoam" in the tank to get it through the primer system. I'll let that sit while hoping it'll work it's magic... I'll then go back and attempt to start it using the force-feeding, eye dropper technique ~but add 'some' mixed fuel into the tank FIRST or else you might be so happy it's running that you forget the importance of the fuel-oil mixture!
cge...@gmail.com
Chedds In the Garden
I have the Stihl FS-46 and had the same problems as described earlier in the
thread. Was ready to smash the trimmer with a sledge hammer after about 10
minutes of pulling and no starting...until I read Stormin Mormon’s post
above. Removed the spark plug, dried it off with a paper towel, pulled on
the start cord about 5 times, resinserted the plug and then within about 4-5
pulls it started right up.
Thanks Mr. Mormon!!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/hard-to-start-stihl-fs-36-trimmer-439730-.htm
Dean Hoffman
> replying to Stormin Mormon, Chedds In the Garden wrote:
> I have the Stihl FS-46 and had the same problems as described earlier in
> the
> thread. Was ready to smash the trimmer with a sledge hammer after
> about 10
> minutes of pulling and no starting...until I read Stormin Mormon’s post
> above. Removed the spark plug, dried it off with a paper towel, pulled on
> the start cord about 5 times, resinserted the plug and then within about
> 4-5
> pulls it started right up.
> Thanks Mr. Mormon!!
>
the Lord
in heaven a couple years ago.
Uncle Monster
> replying to Stormin Mormon, Chedds In the Garden wrote:
> I have the Stihl FS-46 and had the same problems as described earlier in the
> thread. Was ready to smash the trimmer with a sledge hammer after about 10
> minutes of pulling and no starting...until I read Stormin Mormon’s post
> above. Removed the spark plug, dried it off with a paper towel, pulled on
> the start cord about 5 times, resinserted the plug and then within about 4-5
> pulls it started right up.
>
> Thanks Mr. Mormon!!
> --
>
[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster