House Painting - when to power wash?
Dave Mitton
My first instinct says to do that first, gets all the dirt off, and the least
amount of bare wood is exposed to aborb water.
Obviously, you should let the siding dry off afterwords before starting
scraping, sanding and repairs.
But what about the dust raised from sanding?
How do you clean that off?
Do I wash again? Is this not a problem? or something else?
Dave (trying to plan ahead).
Darrell
My opinion, weather permitting, is to scrape and sand first then power
wash regardless of bare wood. Let dry for 48 hours then paint. Another
thought is powerwash, scrape and sand then use an air compressor to blow
off the dust and clear out cracks and joints.
Good Luck.
There comes a time in the affairs of man when he must take the bull by
the tail and face the situation. -- WCF
http://www.utahhousevalues.com
edee em
paint. this will reduce your sanding time (and sanding dust) and the paint
that stays on will not be going anywhere.
"Dave Mitton" <dmi...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lqgihv8ma19vc74nf...@4ax.com...
Miles
Depends...do you want your paint job to last 15 years or 4 to 5? If
you want 15, then never powerwash. Only scrape and (prime bare wood)
and paint. If you don't mind painting regularly or plan to move in the
next few years then I'd suggest powerwash, dry 24 hour, scrape & patch
& wait another 24 before application of paint.
Powerwashing is the cheaper way out (short-term).
mark Ransley
longer....
jeffc
"Miles" <miles_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:795a0678.0307...@posting.google.com...
>
> Depends...do you want your paint job to last 15 years or 4 to 5? If
> you want 15, then never powerwash. Only scrape and (prime bare wood)
> and paint. If you don't mind painting regularly or plan to move in the
> next few years then I'd suggest powerwash, dry 24 hour, scrape & patch
> & wait another 24 before application of paint.
>
> Powerwashing is the cheaper way out (short-term).
That's ridiculous. How is powerwashing the cheaper way out? It takes
longer to powerwash and scrape and prime than it does just to scrape and
prime.
mark Ransley
Tom Baker
Charleston SC is hot, humid, and has lots of spores and plant pollenin
the air. Over the last 25 years, painters have power washed to remove
loose paint and spores or pollen that might be driven into the wood by
scraping and sanding; done the scraping, and repairs; power washed to
remove paint dust and dirt that may have settled during the prep;
allowed time for the wood to dry and painted. I should think
environment and season would have a lot to do with methods.
Tom Baker
Greg
they'd say it's not for that either.
"Miles" <miles_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:795a0678.0307...@posting.google.com...
MargieKay
http://www.askbuild.com/cgi-bin/column?177
It suggests washing the house with detergent and water and not power
washing.
"Dave Mitton" <dmi...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lqgihv8ma19vc74nf...@4ax.com...
mark Ransley
washer, and cleaned...It has been and is the recomended way by paint
manufacturers. unless you have a serious problem.with chalk. . With the
best of todays paints hand washing is not necessary. with cheaper paints
any chalk is a problem. If you note on his site you refered it
advertises Sears weatherbeater, made by sherwin williams, when
purchased at sherwin williams it has a lifetime warranty and states it
is designed to bond to chalky surfaces, as Sears does. Every job is
different, and must be seen in person, the cleaner the better, but some
paints bond to minor residue.
mark Ransley
Miles
Oops, my mistake...should read, hand wash with a medium bristly brush
to remove mildew & grim THEN scrape, patch & prime. Powerwashing
drives grime, mildew & water into the paint and can take weeks to dry
in all but the driest climates. When moisture is trapped in the wood,
a newly applied layer of paint will not adhear properly and can begin
to flake in as little as 2 to 3 years. A properly prepped and painted
house will cost about twice the amount as a powerwash prep type of job
but will last much, much longer. And, it may be difficult to find
someone willing to do the job properly.
mark Ransley
from experience HAAA Ha. So how many years have you done this? How many
hundreds of houses have you done? 0 for 0 , I will bet.. So you let it
dry for a few weeks ,big deal, and mold, kill with bleach first, now
about driving dirt " into paint" somebody been lian to you...And a
properly preped house costing Twice as much as powerwash. This is
one time I can say 100 % you do not know what you are talking about
and you shouldnt, as it misleads people
Tom Baker
In Charleston SC, power washing is always done with a cleaning agent,
then rinsed. Without the cleaning agent, I have had mold growth below
the new paint. We never wash the entire house - just one side at a
time.
Tom Baker
Miles
Only thing I changed was the pre-wash & that was pure oversite. The
remainder of the opinion comes from my father who was a professional
painter as he worked his way thought college and then becane a
chemical engineer for PPG (ie. the paint company). The opinion was
further supported by two separate painters last year, one of which did
my house, who typcally does very high end housing. He guaranteed his
paint job for ten years as opposed to the other contractors I had
bidding the project who wouldn't guarantee their jobs at all.
Jeff Cochran
says:
"Old houses were painted with oil based paints. These paints become
more brittle with age. As the wood moves back and forth, the paint
simply looses its grip. Even though you may scrape loose paint, a year
or so later another spot on the siding may succumb to the forces of
gravity and peel away. Fortunately I do not have oil based paint or
primers on my 10 year old house."
Okay, don't use oil-base paint or primer. Oh, wait. In the column he
links to:
"Oil based primers are superb products. These products penetrate
deeper into wood fibers. Oil primers also do a great job of sealing
woods like cedar and redwood that can produce bleed stains when coated
with water based products. Primers are a must on bare wood and
previously painted surfaces that have bad alligatoring, blisters, or
the paint film is eroded. If your existing paint job is fairly smooth
and sound, you do not need to use a primer over the entire surface."
Okay, so never use oil based primer but make sure you use oil-base
primer...
There's tons of free painting advice available, most of it
contradictory. Locally, power washing is a part of almost every paint
prep job. It doesn't negate scraping, sanding and priming, it's just
an additional step. But locally mildew is a big problem, freeze/thaw
is non-existent, there's not a lot of wood siding left and the main
enemy to your paint job is the sun.
Jeff
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 11:04:37 -0400, "MargieKay" <M...@skipspamx.dca>
wrote:
mark Ransley
different , not to put down your father, who im sure did things right,
but 30 yrs ago power washers were new, and oil was king. and I can see
where people yrs ago not knowing power washers made alot of mistakes
with oil. 20 yrs ago alot of old timers still would not recognise latex,
even though manufacturers only guarnteed their latex line..times change.
Every job is also different, you cannot generalize on prep. You must see
and touch the old paint to know what you are up against, and how best to
aproach it. So you dont rip off your customer.... Your house may have
been chalking off so bad the ground had the same color... Ive seen it..
To say Double Cost for hand washing, I cant even think how in terms of
labor how you could beleive that bs. I have only done high end work,
use factory reps all the time,, following their instructions so on tough
jobs I had their warranty.. and the customers had mine. you wrongfully
scare people when you say dont powerwash. You did see on that reffered
site the Sears weatherbeater, made by shewin williams, with lifetime
warranty, is DESIGNED for chalking surfaces.remember Miles EVERY job is
different...
Miles
No, I said don't *power* wash. As for my house, I had a little flaking
but very, very little chalking. We bought the house 4 years ago and
the house was painted by the previous owners just before we bought the
house. As for saying my dad was an old timer, maybe you missed the
part where I said that he was then a chem.e for PPG...the *paint*
company, until the mid-80's. Hand wash was expensive because it took
2.5 days to complete - compared to what Id guess would be a few of
hours to powerwash - they didn't just wipe down but used synthetic
boars hair brushes over entire house (2.5 stories above grade at
highest point).