Remove brown toilet stains/deposits

[notbob]

We have perfectly fine old toilet, which works fine and has no
mechanical problems. I care for my mom, who suffers from dementia,
and when she uses the toilet during the night, more often than not, she
forgets to flush. This leaves her urine to sit and deposit/stain
until I wake next morning to make sure the commode is flushed. Over
time, this has caused heavy brown deposits (lime?) in the bottom of
our porcelain crapper. I've tried to keep up, but they jes keep
adding up and now even scrubbing with the new fangled hi-tech brushes
with disposable pads can't remove the most heavy stains. I tried some
Lime-Away, which cleaned up the lighter deposits, but the heavy darker
one's in the very bottom remain. Any suggestions on what might remove
these stains? Would muriatic acid be too much? Obviously, I don't
wanna destroy the smooth porcelain glaze.

nb

[Roanin]

"notbob" <not...@nothome.com> wrote in message
news:slrnkm5q73...@nbleet.hcc.net...

I had the same problem with staining and deposits. I bought some Polident
Denture Cleaner fizzies. Put about 4 of them in the toilet at a time a few
times and they are almost gone now. Only cost about $3 for 40 Tablets. Give
it a try, pretty cheep test.

R

[notbob]

On 2013-04-08, Roanin <roani...@live.com> wrote:

> I had the same problem with staining and deposits. I bought some Polident
> Denture Cleaner fizzies. Put about 4 of them in the toilet at a time a few
> times and they are almost gone now. Only cost about $3 for 40 Tablets. Give
> it a try, pretty cheep test.

I will!

Mom, in her forgetfulness, has bought boxes of those things. I jes
dropped in a bunch of 'em. Thanks, Roanin. ;)

nb

[Danny D.]

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 15:56:50 +0000 notbob wrote:

> Over time, this has caused heavy brown deposits (lime?)
> in the bottom of our porcelain crapper.

I don't know much - so go by what others say ... but if it's brown rust,
you might get away with phosphoric acid based solutions.

By way of example, here's a picture of a brown-stained toilet at my
sister's house that I put some naval jelly on this weekend:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12641055/img/12641055.jpg

I don't have a followup picture yet because I told her to let it soak for
a while and then flush the toilet - so I will need to return to her house
to see whether it worked or not.

BTW, I don't know what the brown stains are, but they don't clean easily.

The bleach did not work. My sister said she had scrubbed already, so I
didn't even try to scrub them. I'm hoping the phosphoric acid, left on
for an hour or two, will have done the trick by the time I return.

[Danny D.]

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 11:59:51 -0400 Roanin wrote:

> I bought some Polident Denture Cleaner fizzies.

Looking up what the chemical is from the MSDS:
http://www.msds-gsk.com/consumer/12697006.pdf

20% Citric acid (CAS 77-92-9)
11% Sodium carbonate (CAS 497-19-18)
4.3% Potassium peroxy monosulfate (CAS 10058-23-8)
10% Sodium perborate monohydrate (CAS 10332-33-9)
54.7% Non hazardous stuff

I'm not a chemist - but my quick initial assessment is that the peroxy
compound is an oxidizer (like bleach) and the perborate is perhaps a
water softener.

I suspect the citric acid and sodium carbonate are so that the thing
fizzes, which may aid in mechanical removal of deposits, since dentures
are soft so you don't want to scrub them too hard.

Googling for what the other stuff is, I find this FAQ:
http://www.mypolicare.com/Polident_FAQ.aspx#faq28

28. How does Polident 3 Minute MicroClean Formula work?
Polident® 3 Minute MicroClean is specially formulated to dissolve quickly
so that the cleaning and freshening agents can get to work right away.
Formula kills 99.9% of odor-causing bacteria
Bleaching agents help restore dentures to their original whiteness
Detergents help penetrate deposits and lift them away
Peppermint and spearmint oils & menthol leave your dentures feeling fresh
Formula kills other microorganisms when used for five minutes.

In summary, I'd be surprised if it works on toilet bowls, where scrubbing
won't even work - but please do try it and report back (with a picture!)
so that I can figure out whether it will work for my application!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12641055/640/12641055.jpg

[John]

If you can't wash it off without scrubbing with a Brillo pad or the like
the glaze is probably already deteriorated. I would just replace the
toilet if the stains bothered me that much.

John

[notbob]

On 2013-04-08, Danny D. <da...@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 15:56:50 +0000 notbob wrote:
>
>> Over time, this has caused heavy brown deposits (lime?)
>> in the bottom of our porcelain crapper.

I'm pretty sure it's a calcium deposit, like lime. It's rough and
porous, where rust stains are usually only color stains.

> The bleach did not work.

Hmmm.... I've found bleach will do well in eliminating the color and
leave the porcelain white, but not remove the porous deposits.

> My sister said she had scrubbed already, so I didn't even try to
> scrub them. I'm hoping the phosphoric acid, left on for an hour or
> two, will have done the trick by the time I return.

Let me know how it works. I've got some Polident doing its thing, now.

nb

[notbob]

On 2013-04-08, John <Jo...@nowhere.com> wrote:

> the glaze is probably already deteriorated.

That would account for the rough porous feel to the glaze. I hope
that's not the case.

nb

[dadiOH]

Danny D. wrote:
> On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 11:59:51 -0400 Roanin wrote:
>
>> I bought some Polident Denture Cleaner fizzies.
>
> Looking up what the chemical is from the MSDS:
> http://www.msds-gsk.com/consumer/12697006.pdf
>
> 20% Citric acid (CAS 77-92-9)
> 11% Sodium carbonate (CAS 497-19-18)
> 4.3% Potassium peroxy monosulfate (CAS 10058-23-8)
> 10% Sodium perborate monohydrate (CAS 10332-33-9)
> 54.7% Non hazardous stuff
>
> I'm not a chemist - but my quick initial assessment is that the peroxy
> compound is an oxidizer (like bleach) and the perborate is perhaps a
> water softener.
>
> I suspect the citric acid and sodium carbonate are so that the thing
> fizzes, which may aid in mechanical removal of deposits, since
> dentures are soft so you don't want to scrub them too hard.

Citric acid is useful for reduction of iron oxide (rust) to a soluble form;
sodium carbonate is used in descaling (lime removal) but I have no idea what
it does here.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

[dadiOH]

The roughness is from lime deposits which may be further stained by iron.
Citric, phosphoric or any other acid will remove both but you are better off
using the milder citric or phosphoric as opposed to hydrochloric (muriatic).

For the bottom of the bowl, shut off the water supply to it and flush so
that there is minimal water left; then add the acid and let sit for several
hours. If it (deposit) is all gone, turn on water and flush; if it is not,
repeat the acid.

The stains under and down from the rim are harder as they need to be kept
wet with the acidic soultion; one way is to saturate paper towels with the
solution and pat them in place. Close the seat and wait, repeat as
necessary.

Your long term solution is to soften the water. That will solve the lime
problem and may solve the rust depending on how much iron is in the water.
If the softened water still results in iron stains, your solutions are to
also get an iron removal system (not cheap) or periodically clean with acid.

[notbob]

On 2013-04-08, dadiOH <dad...@invalid.com> wrote:

> The roughness is from lime deposits which may be further stained by iron.

Definitely deposits. I got a lot removed with the Polident, but still
two heavy deposits. As a goof, I tried lightly scraping with a
screwdriver. Chunks of brown deposit broke free! I'll continue along
this line, but will try something that won't scratch the porcelain
glaze.

> For the bottom of the bowl, shut off the water supply to it and flush so
> that there is minimal water left;

I discovered a neat trick to help further empty the bowl. After
shutting off the water to tank and flushing, rapidly dump a gal jug of
water into the bowl, all at once if possible, and from several feet
above the bowl. Inertia of the falling jug water will remove even
more water, right down to jes above the water seal level, in my case.

> Your long term solution is to soften the water. That will solve the lime

> problem.....

CO water is notoriously soft. Our's is a little less soft than most
of the state, but still fairly soft water. I haven't bought bottled
water since I moved here. I think the deposits are calcium deposits
from human urine, the stain from the yellow in urine.

nb

[Roy]

Iron-Out works really well. I use it all the time.

[Ed Pawlowski]

You may want to consider using one of the tablet treatments to prevent
it from occurring one you get it clean. We have some made by Clorox
that work very well.

[Stormin Mormon]

Heavy plastic spoon for scraper? Used, then labelled with magic marker and
stored in the shop.
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
.

"notbob" <not...@nothome.com> wrote in message

news:slrnkm60gc...@nbleet.hcc.net...

Definitely deposits. I got a lot removed with the Polident, but still
two heavy deposits. As a goof, I tried lightly scraping with a
screwdriver. Chunks of brown deposit broke free! I'll continue along
this line, but will try something that won't scratch the porcelain
glaze.

nb

[EXT]

"notbob" <not...@nothome.com> wrote in message

news:slrnkm5q73...@nbleet.hcc.net...

Had this problem with my grown son who didn't bother to flush nor clean.
Nothing would remove it, so after draining as much water as possible, I
poured in about a cup or so of acid pipe cleaner from Home Depot that I had
sitting around. When it was poured in it foamed up, got hot, and then I ran
an all-plastic scrub brush around in the bowl. The liquid turned dark brown
and when I flushed it down it left a clean, stain free toilet.

[Roanin]

"notbob" <not...@nothome.com> wrote in message

news:slrnkm60gc...@nbleet.hcc.net...

Glad it is working a little bit for you. In my case we have really hard
water with a lot of iron in it. When they changed my well pump, it looked
the color of a Home Depot sign. This being said, my stain is in the bottom
of the toilet bowl and there still is a little bit there. It accumulated
over time. I did not want to put in a real harsh chemical other than the
bleach because It is a Kohler toilet that matches the sink and I did not
want to mess up the bowl. Lots of good suggestions here.

R

[nestork]

I would use a hydrochloric acid based toilet bowl cleaner available at
any place listed under "Janitorial Equipment & Supplies" in your yellow
pages phone book.

For maintaining a clean appearance, then a weaker phosphoric acid toilet
bowl cleaner would be all you'd need.

Neither phosphoric acid nor hydrochloric acid will harm glass or
porcelain, even at higher concentrations, so if you have muriatic acid,
you could try applying it with a Q-trip or nylon bristle paint brush to
see how effective it would be. If it works, then use a gelled
hydrochloric acid toilet bowl cleaner which will be about 14%
hydrochloric acid instead of 26 percent.




--
nestork

[notbob]

On 2013-04-09, EXT <noe...@reply.in.this.group> wrote:

> Had this problem with my grown son who didn't bother to flush nor clean.
> Nothing would remove it, so after draining as much water as possible, I
> poured in about a cup or so of acid pipe cleaner from Home Depot that I had
> sitting around. When it was poured in it foamed up, got hot, and then I ran
> an all-plastic scrub brush around in the bowl. The liquid turned dark brown
> and when I flushed it down it left a clean, stain free toilet.

I have some sulfuric acid drain cleaner. Would that harm porcelain?
I called the company that makes it and asked them if it would hurt
plastic tub drain piping. They would commit/deny/agree with
absolutely nothing. Kinda like, "Hey, we jes make it and ain't
'fessin' to diddly. Use at yer own risk". Real encouraging. ;)

nb

[Roy]

IRON-OUT WILL WORK...TRY IT.

[bu...@bubba.com]

On Mon, 8 Apr 2013 11:59:51 -0400, "Roanin" <roani...@live.com>
wrote:

I may try that myself.

Right now I used to use Lime-Away I think it was acidic toilet bowl
cleaner, but I don't see that for sale anymore. I used to get it at
Lowes and they had nothing similar at HD.

So I use The Works, which is also called acidic on the label. follow
the instructions on the label. I think they have that at Lowes.

I was afraid it would damage the porcelain, but after a few uses I
rubbed one of the formerly dirty areas with a finger and it seemed
just as smooth as the outside which has never been cleaned with
anything but water. .
>
I had this problem when my prostate started making me pee a smaller
amount but many times a day. Even though I'm charged a flat rate for
water, I couldn't bare to flush the toilet all the time for a little
bit.

Guess what? The same thing happened in my bladder. Because I didn't
flush it completely, only expelled a little, and left the rest in
there, I got depostits and a bladder stone almost as big as a golf
ball. Thank gosh for fancy doctors and lasers. I would hate to
have had the stone taken out the way they did 2400 or 60 years ago.

I hope your mother doesn't. get worse.

I wonder if there is some sort of automatically flushing toilet out
there. I haven't heard of one, but maybe go to a real plumbing supply
store.

[micky]

On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 02:18:34 -0400, bu...@bubba.com wrote:

>I may try that myself.
>
>Right now I used to use Lime-Away I think it was acidic toilet bowl
>cleaner, but I don't see that for sale anymore. I used to get it at
>Lowes and they had nothing similar at HD.
>
>So I use The Works, which is also called acidic on the label. follow
>the instructions on the label. I think they have that at Lowes.

I should have said that I fell way behind in the first 6 months, and
the first time, I had to clean it about 6 times in a row to get it all
clean. After that it was much easier.

[Ashton Crusher]

On Mon, 8 Apr 2013 20:02:10 -0400, "EXT" <noe...@reply.in.this.group>
wrote:

I've used swimming pool acid to clean out badly stained toilets.
Creates a lot of fumes. Don't stay in the room after you put it in.
Then get in and out fast when you swish it around and flush. Run the
exhaust fan.

[dadiOH]

notbob wrote:

>
> I have some sulfuric acid drain cleaner. Would that harm porcelain?

The porcelain is glass. The only acid that will attack glass is
hydrofluoric and it is highly unlikely that you will ever encounter it.

[notbob]

On 2013-04-09, dadiOH <dad...@invalid.com> wrote:

> The porcelain is glass. The only acid that will attack glass is
> hydrofluoric and it is highly unlikely that you will ever encounter it.

I once hadda work above a large open vessel of it. Hi-tech chip mfg,
and all that. To say I was extremely careful for that 1 hr is putting
it mildly.

Anyway, thanks for the info.

nb

[HerHusband]

If you are on a septic system, I would try other alternatives before
dumping acids or other caustic chemicals down your toilet. You wouldn't
want to cause problems with your septic system just to remove a stain.

Dark stains are usually a build up of rust or minerals. I have removed
heavy stains like that using a mild abrasive like Comet or Ajax and one of
those green nylon scrubbing pads. Yes, you have to stick your hands in the
toilet and do some scrubbing, but it has always worked for me. There's
enough abrasive to remove the stain, but not enough to damage the finish on
the toilet. It helps to turn off the water to the toilet and flush as much
water as you can from the bowl. Scoop out as much of the remaining water as
you can before scrubbing.

I have also had good results with a product called CLR (Calcium/Lime/Rust).
It's fairly harmless, but it can damage some surfaces like laminate counter
tops. I once left a permanent ring on our old countertop when a little was
on the bottom of the dish I was using to hold it while cleaning.

Anthony Watson
Mountain Software
www.mountain-software.com/about.htm

[Oren]

On Tue, 9 Apr 2013 14:12:06 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
<unk...@unknown.com> wrote:

>If you are on a septic system, I would try other alternatives before
>dumping acids or other caustic chemicals down your toilet. You wouldn't
>want to cause problems with your septic system just to remove a stain.

If muriatic acid ( what I use for calcium crud) is used on a septic
system, simply neutralize it with baking soda before the flush. It
will not harm the septic system. I'm on city sewer with PVC pipe.
If metal pipes, also use the baking soda before you flush.

[Danny D.]

On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 07:54:14 -0400 dadiOH wrote:

> The porcelain is glass. The only acid that will attack glass is
> hydrofluoric

Is that really true?

Do others concur?

If so, that good news opens a whole realm of chemicals
we can use to clean the brown stains off the toilet.

[Dan Espen]

Porcelain is mostly glass, but more important, the glaze
applied to porcelain is also mostly glass:

Ceramic glaze raw materials generally include silica, which will be
the main glass former. Various metal oxides, such as sodium, potassium
and calcium, act as a flux to lower the melting temperature. Alumina,
often derived from clay, stiffens the molten glaze to prevent it from
running off the piece. Colorants, such as iron oxide, copper carbonate
or cobalt carbonate, and sometimes opacifiers such as tin oxide or
zirconium oxide, are used to modify the visual appearance of the fired
glaze.

My experience with brown stains, is that regular toilet cleaners and
some scrubbing do the job. It took more than one session, but no heroic
actions were required.

Oh, also, yes, etching glass is done with hydrofluoric acid.

--
Dan Espen

[Danny D.]

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 15:44:02 -0400 Dan Espen wrote:

> Porcelain is mostly glass, but more important, the glaze
> applied to porcelain is also mostly glass:

Well, if nothing is going to harm the porcelain, then
I can now experiment more easily with acids of phosphate
and hydrochloric.

For example, I have muriatic acid (for the pool), so, I will
try that to remove my brown stains on the toilet and
report back.

I'll probably post results separately as this thread was opened
by someone else so I don't wish to hijack it for my
experiments.

[Oren]

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 21:00:12 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<da...@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:

>For example, I have muriatic acid (for the pool), so, I will
>try that to remove my brown stains on the toilet and
>report back.

Danny,

This link is for a "slow flush toilet". Every toilet I have "cleaned"
using muriatic acid has also cleaned stains, etc.

Skip down to: _Muriatic Acid Method_

This will clean any calcium / slim from inside the bowl rim and the
flow jets. Cleaner toilet with a better flush.

If on a septic system / metal sewer pipes, use baking soda to
neutralize the acid before you flush.

<http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Slow-Toilet>

You have the pool acid - try it. Works for me...

[NotMe]

"Danny D." <da...@pleasedontemail.com> wrote in message
news:kk788s$nkc$1...@speranza.aioe.org...

Be VERY careful with muriatic acid in enclosed spaces.

[Danny D.]

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 19:30:25 -0500 NotMe wrote:

>> I'll probably post results separately as this thread was opened
>> by someone else so I don't wish to hijack it for my
>> experiments.
>
> Be VERY careful with muriatic acid in enclosed spaces.

See followup here:
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/alt.home.repair/lIRJ6jTOkSI

Summary montage here:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12671632/img/12671632.png

[bromw...@gmail.com]

Brown Stains Bottom of Toilet
Had brownish stains in the bottom of two of our toilets, thought it was the porcelain eaten away due to color and texture and what appeared to be the raw ceramic/clay showing though. After reading everything in this blog, simply turned off water to toilet, flushed, soaked up remaining water with rags and filled with CLR (since found out ZEP has same product for about 20% less). Let it sit, took small flat screw driver and gently scraped under edge of the brown stuff, it popped right off in flakes. Continued to do same with larger, easily accessed areas then followed up with small, hard bristle, non-abrasive brush. Turned water back on and flushed- eureka, just like new.
Based on what I've read and not having hard, iron saturated water, my guess is that a combination of what little iron there is in the water, combined with my children not flushing their urine consistently, a calcium/lime/rust build up occurred. Unfortunately I didn't take before and after photos to post, but fortunately it worked.
Thanks for all postings,
FRO

[Stormin Mormon]

Nice to hear success, now and again. Thank you for sharing.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

[Tekkie®]

bromw...@gmail.com posted for all of us...

And I know how to SNIP

> fortunately I didn't take before and after photos to post, but fortunately it worked
>

I changed the first word, we get the idea.

--
Tekkie

[temie...@gmail.com]

I tried the denture cleaner technique and it worked!

[kalia...@gmail.com]

But it can hurt the pipe, read directions didn't it say not to use on toilets? I had clog in sink PVC pipe and used the acid but said not to use in toilet!??? The pipe is old metal so????

[Oren]

On Wed, 2 Nov 2016 12:28:24 -0700 (PDT), kalia...@gmail.com wrote:

>But it can hurt the pipe, read directions didn't it say not to use on toilets? I had clog in sink PVC pipe and used the acid but said not to use in toilet!??? The pipe is old metal so????

You typing to me or are you typing to Danny D? Or you picked a thread
several years old and jumped in part way?

[Channy Ducharme]

replying to notbob, Channy Ducharme wrote:
just go buy a bottle of Coca Cola and pour that in the toilet. let it sit for
a few hours and just use the toilet brush and ta da.......... clean.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/remove-brown-toilet-stains-deposits-743699-.htm

[Martin]

replying to notbob, Martin wrote:
Just buy some good old brick acid (cement cleaner from your local builders
merchant) leave over night and flush! Doesn’t matter how bad/old the
limescale is, it just removes it over night...

[trader_4]

Otherwise known as hydrochloric or muriatic acid. In my experience, it works
in minutes.

[Mesut Şahin]

24 Aralık 2018 Pazartesi tarihinde saat 18:51:15 UTC+3 itibarıyla trader_4 şunları yazdı:

Thanks for information. https://www.cleaner-en.com/zep-grout-cleaner-how-to-apply-zep-grout-cleaner-2021/ https://www.cleaner-en.com/zep-grout-cleaner-how-to-apply-zep-grout-cleaner-2021/

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 29 Oct 2021 21:16:28 -0700 (PDT), Mesut
?ahin <unforg...@gmail.com> wrote:

>24 Aral?k 2018 Pazartesi tarihinde saat 18:51:15 UTC+3 itibar?yla trader_4 ?unlar? yazd?:

>> On Sunday, December 23, 2018 at 10:44:06 PM UTC-5, Martin wrote:
>> > replying to notbob, Martin wrote:
>> > Just buy some good old brick acid (cement cleaner from your local builders
>> > merchant) leave over night and flush! Doesn’t matter how bad/old the
>> > limescale is, it just removes it over night...
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/remove-brown-toilet-stains-deposits-743699-.ht
>> Otherwise known as hydrochloric or muriatic acid. In my experience, it works
>> in minutes.

Be sure to read the directions, or find directions if there are none.

It's add acid to water, or maybe it's add water to acid. One is safe,
the other dangerous.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sat, 30 Oct 2021 01:37:21 -0400, micky <NONONO...@fmguy.com>
wrote:

>In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 29 Oct 2021 21:16:28 -0700 (PDT), Mesut
>?ahin <unforg...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>24 Aral?k 2018 Pazartesi tarihinde saat 18:51:15 UTC+3 itibar?yla trader_4 ?unlar? yazd?:
>>> On Sunday, December 23, 2018 at 10:44:06 PM UTC-5, Martin wrote:
>>> > replying to notbob, Martin wrote:
>>> > Just buy some good old brick acid (cement cleaner from your local builders
>>> > merchant) leave over night and flush! Doesn’t matter how bad/old the
>>> > limescale is, it just removes it over night...
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/remove-brown-toilet-stains-deposits-743699-.ht
>>> Otherwise known as hydrochloric or muriatic acid. In my experience, it works
>>> in minutes.
>
>Be sure to read the directions, or find directions if there are none.
>
>It's add acid to water, or maybe it's add water to acid. One is safe,
>the other dangerous.

That mostly refers to sulphuric acid because there is an exothermic
reaction.
I would also be very careful with acid in porcelain. If you eat off
that shiny finish you will never get it clean.
I ended up having to replace a toilet from that. I hated it anyway so
I wasn't too upset. That was my #1 toilet because and decent #2 would
plug it up.

[Frank]

Old saying is, "Do like you oughta, add acid to water."

As for toilet stains, I like Iron Out which contains oxalic acid.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 31 Oct 2021 13:49:57 -0400, Frank <"frank "@frank.net> wrote:

>Old saying is, "Do like you oughta, add acid to water."

Guess you never put water in a battery ;-)

["\"Re...@home.com]

We cleaned a stained toilet bowl with a pumice stick

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pumie-Pumice-Scouring-Stick/3549232

now only need regular liquid cleaner and a brush occasionally.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 31 Oct 2021 14:06:03 -0400,

Regardless of your sarcasm and smiley, he's right. You yourself just
said it applied to sulfuric acid, the acid in a car battery.

If he pours the acid straight in the toilet, he does it right, but as we
discussed in the 3-step chain of negligence**, he might mix water into
the acid in a separate container, who knows why, and plan to pour that
in the toilet.

**Shooting and killing a photographer while making a movie; drinking
bleach found in a milk carton.

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <9j2unghd4i2f9hlds...@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
@fmguy.com says...

>
> Regardless of your sarcasm and smiley, he's right. You yourself just
> said it applied to sulfuric acid, the acid in a car battery.
>
>
>

The acid in the car battery is deluted enough it does not matter.

[gfre...@aol.com]

Yup, the right answer.
That is pretty much true of any acid the homeowner will ever see.
It does make sense in a lab where you are using reagent grade acid and
test tubes. (Volcano, right in your face)

[Frank]

Google says battery acid is 15 to 35 percent sulfuric acid. It is that
initial heat of hydration of concentrated acid that makes it hazardous.
Even concentrated sulfuric contains almost 2 percent water. We had to
work with 100% which is made by adding oleum to concentrated acid to get
rid of excess water.