Building 20' sliding pool poles out of EMT conduit (is it possible?)

[Danny D]

Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834169/img/12834169.jpg

They bend:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834188/img/12834188.jpg

They crack:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834196/img/12834196.jpg

They kink:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834209/img/12834209.jpg

They break:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837748/img/12837748.jpg

My wife angrily threw away my prized yellow fiberglass pole
after the kids complained of splinters, so I am trying to build
a stronger/cheaper/more durable sliding steel pole out of EMT
fittings:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834076/img/12834076.jpg

But I can't seem to get the fittings right.

Mainly I need a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer.

Have you ever created a sliding pole out of cheap but strong
(stronger than aluminum anyway) 10' EMT tubing?

What fittings would you use so that you could slide & clamp
the two ten-foot steel (EMT conduit) poles together?

[RBM]

On 5/6/2013 1:03 AM, Danny D wrote:
> Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
> aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834169/img/12834169.jpg
>
> They bend:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834188/img/12834188.jpg
>
> They crack:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834196/img/12834196.jpg
>
> They kink:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834209/img/12834209.jpg

> /

> They break:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837748/img/12837748.jpg
>
> My wife angrily threw away my prized yellow fiberglass pole
> after the kids complained of splinters, so I am trying to build
> a stronger/cheaper/more durable sliding steel pole out of EMT
> fittings:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834076/img/12834076.jpg
>
> But I can't seem to get the fittings right.
>
> Mainly I need a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer.
>
> Have you ever created a sliding pole out of cheap but strong
> (stronger than aluminum anyway) 10' EMT tubing?
>
> What fittings would you use so that you could slide & clamp
> the two ten-foot steel (EMT conduit) poles together?
>

I think you're barking up the wrong tree. The 3/4 emt may be strong
enough, but its too heavy. The 1/2 emt will bend way quicker than the
aluminum poles. The fittings you got look really nice, but none of the
electrical fittings are designed to be loosened and re-tightened
repeatedly. The fittings are also not made with the ability to telescope.

[Ralph Mowery]

"Danny D" <Dan...@example.com> wrote in message
news:km7dj6$ug1$1...@speranza.aioe.org...

> Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
> aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
>

You may want to look at the grey plastic electrical conduit. I don't know
of any coupling that will let it slide, but if you really have to have it
slide, drill a hole or two about a foot down and put a bolt through it to
hold them together.

[tra...@optonline.net]

> repeatedly. The fittings are also not made with the ability to telescope.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

+1

And if he's going through pool poles that fast, it would suggest
that they are being abused. The ones I've had are nothing special
and last many years. The brushes are the problem for me. They
only last a season or two before the bristles get brittle and start to
fall out.

Also, some of the problems with the pole, ie the cracked plastic
nut, may be lessened by storing it out of the sun....

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 06:53:59 -0400, RBM wrote:

> none of the electrical fittings are designed to be loosened and
> re-tightened repeatedly. The fittings are also not made with the ability
> to telescope.

I was afraid of that.

The good news is that I don't really need to telescope.
The pool is 9 feet deep, so, I just need, oh, I don't know,
9 feet plus 5 feet = 14 feet (or so) of pole.

So, it's not a requirement that it manually be adjusted
to size more than just once.

But, they 'do' have to fit together, so, that's why a
3/4" to 1/2" fitting would be perfect, if I could find one.

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 07:41:10 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:

> The brushes are the problem for me. They only last a season or two
> before the bristles get brittle and start to fall out.

That's exactly the opposite of my experience! :)

My brushes seem to last forever:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12865884/img/12865884.jpg

It's my NETS which fall apart in a single season!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837825/img/12837825.jpg

The plastic always cracks at the center stress point:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837823/img/12837823.jpg

The netting tears at the sides:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837824/img/12837824.jpg

Even the aluminum nets have plastic holders that fall apart:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837968/img/12837968.jpg

I'm wondering if there's a way to build our own sturdy nets too!

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 05:03:35 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834076/img/12834076.jpg

The chlorine in the pool will rust that metal, fast you can shake a
stick.

[Dan Espen]

Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:

> Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
> aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834169/img/12834169.jpg
>
> They bend:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834188/img/12834188.jpg
>
> They crack:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834196/img/12834196.jpg
>
> They kink:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834209/img/12834209.jpg
>
> They break:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837748/img/12837748.jpg

I thought you were new to this stuff?

In about 15 years I've gone through maybe 4 poles.
I don't think that's unreasonable.

The hardest workout they get is lifting decaying leaves off the cover.
The poles get left outside year round.

If I was determined to make my own, I would not try for telescoping,
too much complication. Not sure what would be good though, you want
strength but not the weight. Not really compatible qualities.

--
Dan Espen

[SMS]

I've never broken a pole. I've had the same two poles since we bought
the house 14 years ago, and they were left by the previous owner.


--
Reagan raised taxes eleven times as President.

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 07:41:10 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:

> Also, some of the problems with the pole, ie the cracked plastic nut,
> may be lessened by storing it out of the sun....

I must agree the sun does a LOT of damage!

For example, thermometers only seem to last a single year!
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866280/img/12866280.jpg

And, the strings on the floating dispensers always crumbles!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866303/img/12866303.jpg

Even the vacuum hoses start falling apart in just two years!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866318/img/12866318.jpg

Lest anyone say they can't make plastic last outside, witness
the recycling cans, which NEVER fall apart (even outdoors every
day and subject to tremendous forces when being dumped):
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866335/img/12866335.jpg

QUESTIONS for the problem solvers:

Q1: Do they make a thermometer that will last in the sun?
Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?

[tra...@optonline.net]

On May 6, 1:18 pm, Danny D <Dan...@example.com> wrote:

I have one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-Pool-Thermometer-Indoor-Outdoor-/330772358634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0391a5ea#ht_3374wt_915


It's lasted two seasons so far.

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 10:28:08 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

> You may want to look at the grey plastic electrical conduit ...
> drill a hole ... and put a bolt through it to hold them together.

I did test the gray electrical conduit at Home Depot, and it was really
light but it was too flimsy (although it may be good for an outer
sheath outside the steel EMT electrical conduit because it won't get
hot in the sun as much that way).

The threaded electrical conduit was too heavy; the gray plastic too
flimsy; the EMT conduit just right.

So that's why I settled on the EMT conduit.

As for the threaded bolt, I've already used that for repairing the
pool poles - and it is a great idea.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866432/img/12866432.jpg

You can see that hex machine bolt rusted ... so I might want to
go with a stainless steel or nylon carriage style bolt, cut as flush
as possible.

BTW, do you guys have a rule of thumb on how LONG a pool pole should
be? For example, how many feet would you add for a 9' deep pool?

[tra...@optonline.net]

> Reagan raised taxes eleven times as President.- Hide quoted text -
>


Yeah, after cutting income taxes from a top rate of 70%,
he agreed to some little tax increases here and there,
mostly to achieve other things he wanted from Congress.
I'll take cutting taxes by 60% once then raising them by 2%
ten times any day.


When Reagan left office, taxes were still at 28%, instead of
70%. Boyyou libs are really something. It used to be all that you
bitched about was that Reagan increased the national
debt, allegedly because he CUT taxes. But now that Obama is
increasing the debt at a rate far worse than anything
under any other president, it's time to shift tactics.
And with the modest deficits under Reagan, we had
a booming economy, 5% unemployment, an end to
double digit inflation, a rejuvinated military proud of itself
and he ended the Cold War,
defeating the Soviet Union. What exactly do we have
to show for Obama's $6tril in new debt? He's
adding another $900bil this year alone.

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 10:26:58 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:

> I have one of these:

Hmmm... a wireless thermometer ... http://tinyurl.com/btapuly

How does it work?

Do you stick a transmitter in the pool and it transmits
to the thermometer on the deck?

Can it handle the pool & the spa?

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 13:03:15 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:

> I thought you were new to this stuff?
> In about 15 years I've gone through maybe 4 poles.
> I don't think that's unreasonable.

I've had the pool for 3 years. I bought all new equipment
at that time as it came with nothing. So no pole in that
picture is older than 3 years.

I'm amazed anyone would put up with the crummy quality of
the poles I have, so, either you're not buying from Leslies
and Home Depot (where I'm getting my stuff), or, there's
something brutal about my environment that isn't in yours.

Mine has sun all day - no shade whatsoever - so I know
that is brutal - but - not for aluminum poles. Also my
pool is deep, and leaves blow in all the time because of
storms, so, there's a lot of deep digging of truckloads of
leaves from the bottom (since it's a supposedly self-cleaning
pool, the bottom is precipitously deep, on purpose but that's
a whole 'nuther story).

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 17:18:12 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>QUESTIONS for the problem solvers:
>
>Q1: Do they make a thermometer that will last in the sun?

Just put the thermometer in the skimmer basket, out of the sun.

>Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?

Why use string on a floater?

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 10:11:52 -0700, SMS wrote:

> I've never broken a pole.

That's very strange.
Are yours the aluminum ones from Home Depot or Leslies?

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 11:04:57 -0700, Oren wrote:

>>Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?
> Why use string on a floater?

Hmmm.... it seemed logical.

First off, the floaters clearly have holes for this purpose.
Secondly, out here anyway, we have strong prevailing winds
for the summer and winter which move the floaters to one
end of the pool permanently unless they're tied down.

Only the floater in the spa stays put; but the other two
floaters will be in the same spot all day if I didn't tie
them to the middle.

As an update, I bought a screening kit to make new pool nets
out of window screen. That window screen kit came with rubber
'cord'. This black rubber cord seems to be a 'perfect' size
for the floater holes; but, of course, only time (and chlorine)
will tell the complete tale...

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12867188/img/12867188.jpg

[tra...@optonline.net]

On May 6, 1:54 pm, Danny D <Dan...@example.com> wrote:

> On Mon, 06 May 2013 10:26:58 -0700, trad...@optonline.net wrote:
> > I have one of these:
>

> Hmmm... a wireless thermometer ...http://tinyurl.com/btapuly

>
> How does it work?
>
> Do you stick a transmitter in the pool and it transmits
> to the thermometer on the deck?

The transmitter floats in the pool.

>
> Can it handle the pool & the spa?

Sure, just buy two.

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 17:59:44 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>I'm amazed anyone would put up with the crummy quality of
>the poles I have, so, either you're not buying from Leslies
>and Home Depot (where I'm getting my stuff), or, there's
>something brutal about my environment that isn't in yours.
>

...an angry wife and lazy children?!

[Dan Espen]

Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:

> On Mon, 06 May 2013 07:41:10 -0700, tra...@optonline.net wrote:
>
>> Also, some of the problems with the pole, ie the cracked plastic nut,
>> may be lessened by storing it out of the sun....
>
> I must agree the sun does a LOT of damage!
>
> For example, thermometers only seem to last a single year!
> http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866280/img/12866280.jpg

I had one fall apart, took me weeks to find the glass on the bottom of
the pool. So, two in at least 15 years.

> And, the strings on the floating dispensers always crumbles!
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866303/img/12866303.jpg

Strings on thermometers, never any decay.
Don't use floating dispensers but the chlorine might be an issue.

> Even the vacuum hoses start falling apart in just two years!
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866318/img/12866318.jpg

Nope, 5-10 years from hoses, even when I step on them.

> Lest anyone say they can't make plastic last outside, witness
> the recycling cans, which NEVER fall apart (even outdoors every
> day and subject to tremendous forces when being dumped):
> http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12866335/img/12866335.jpg

Ever try to get the recycling people to take away a plastic recycling
can that has fallen apart? Still trying.

> QUESTIONS for the problem solvers:
>
> Q1: Do they make a thermometer that will last in the sun?

Mine hangs from the ladder which is on the south side of the
pool so it doesn't get direct sun. It's underwater anyway, I wouldn't
expect much affect from the sun.

> Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?

No floaters, but it's string. Cheap to replace.

--
Dan Espen

[Dan Espen]

Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:

> On Mon, 06 May 2013 13:03:15 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:
>
>> I thought you were new to this stuff?
>> In about 15 years I've gone through maybe 4 poles.
>> I don't think that's unreasonable.
>
> I've had the pool for 3 years. I bought all new equipment
> at that time as it came with nothing. So no pole in that
> picture is older than 3 years.

3 years, wow, that's crazy.

> I'm amazed anyone would put up with the crummy quality of
> the poles I have, so, either you're not buying from Leslies
> and Home Depot (where I'm getting my stuff), or, there's
> something brutal about my environment that isn't in yours.

HD, never.

Leslies, only when my preferred place is closed.

For brick retail, I prefer Sun Pools (Rt. 22 NJ), not a chain.
Mostly I use the wonders of the internet. Great for liners.
No store can even get close to the selection online.

Google shows lots of poles, some labeled "professional".

--
Dan Espen

[Danny D]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 11:41:07 -0700, Oren wrote:

> there's something brutal about my environment that isn't in yours.
> ...an angry wife and lazy children?!

Well ... other than that!?

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 19:08:39 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

Angry children and a lazy wife? Heck I don't know...

[RBM]

In the chain link fence business they use a top rail made of steel. I'm
not sure what the smallest size would be, but it comes in 20 foot
lengths. If its not too heavy, you could possibly cut a 14 foot piece of
that.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 18:35:31 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>On Mon, 06 May 2013 11:04:57 -0700, Oren wrote:
>
>>>Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?
>> Why use string on a floater?
>
>Hmmm.... it seemed logical.
>
>First off, the floaters clearly have holes for this purpose.
>Secondly, out here anyway, we have strong prevailing winds
>for the summer and winter which move the floaters to one
>end of the pool permanently unless they're tied down.

Because they have a loop for a string doesn't mean you're required to
use it. There is no harm in having it at one end constantly. Mine
used to float all around but if the water level was just wrong, it
would get hung up in the skimmer, blocking it and causing the pump to
suck air - not good. I tied it to one of he ladders with a shoelace.
It would get ratty a couple of times a summer and I'd just use the
other one.

>Only the floater in the spa stays put; but the other two
>floaters will be in the same spot all day if I didn't tie
>them to the middle.

So what?

<...>

[Ashton Crusher]

I'm still using the same original aluminum pool pole from when my pool
was built over 20 years ago. You must be abusing yours. How in the
world would you get dents in it? It's not a hammer.



On Mon, 6 May 2013 05:03:35 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
>aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834169/img/12834169.jpg
>
>They bend:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834188/img/12834188.jpg
>
>They crack:
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834196/img/12834196.jpg
>
>They kink:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834209/img/12834209.jpg
>
>They break:
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12837748/img/12837748.jpg
>

[DD_BobK]

On May 6, 7:41 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
wrote:

+1

[Oren]

On Mon, 06 May 2013 19:20:17 -0700, Ashton Crusher <de...@moore.net>
wrote:

>You must be abusing yours. How in the
>world would you get dents in it? It's not a hammer.
>

Rodents dulled their teeth on the metal?! <g>

Honestly, I have seen squirrels chew aluminum and wood peckers bang on
it, and other metal. What a racket they make.

[denni...@gmail.com]

On Monday, May 6, 2013 12:37:15 PM UTC-4, Danny D wrote:
> But, they 'do' have to fit together, so, that's why a
> 3/4" to 1/2" fitting would be perfect, if I could find one.

No, it wouldn't.

That junction would be tremendously weak, and would likely break the first time you used it. It is not intended to be a structural connection.

In order to have any strength at all, the smaller tube needs to telescope INSIDE the bigger tube for some distance. It needs to be a snug slip fit or it will flop around either kink the inner tube or split the outer tube.

Try telescoping the 3/4" and 1/2" together. It's too sloppy of a fit. It will never work as-is.

If you're a machinist you could turn some bushings out of brass or steel to take up the slack, but if you were a machinist you'd have thought of that solution already.

Redneck solution involves wrapping the smaller tube with electrical or duct tape to take up the slack. Drill for a cross pin to hold the pole at a predetermined length. Multiple holes in the smaller tube to make it adjustable.

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 23:10:43 -0700 (PDT), DD_BobK <rkaz...@gmail.com>
wrote:

>> Also, some of the problems with the pole, ie the cracked plastic
>> nut, may be lessened by storing it out of the sun....
>
>+1

I have no trouble with my pool pole stored outside - horizontal on a
wall with a place to hang it. This is the Mojave Desert. The plastic
knob gets some silicone lube on the threads.

Nets, brushes, etc. are under the covered patio.

[Oren]

On Mon, 6 May 2013 18:35:31 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>

wrote:

>>>Q2: What strings do you use for your floaters anyway?
>> Why use string on a floater?
>
>Hmmm.... it seemed logical.
>
>First off, the floaters clearly have holes for this purpose.

Or it was how the plastic was molded. Strings are not mentioned in the
instructions.

I like frogs :-\

<http://www.poolandspa.com/catalog/FroggyFloatingChlorine.jpg>

[Oren]

On Tue, 7 May 2013 10:45:47 -0700 (PDT), denni...@gmail.com wrote:

>Redneck solution involves wrapping the smaller tube with electrical or duct tape to take up the slack. Drill for a cross pin to hold the pole at a predetermined length. Multiple holes in the smaller tube to make it adjustable.

no no no. Ya buy a "giggin' pole"

12~14 ft. 1.5 inch round wooden dowel rod

<http://woodproducts.caldowel.com/images/products/detail/2-Oak-Dowel-Rods-x-48.jpg>

Think Redneck, will ya?!

[Danny D]

On Tue, 07 May 2013 11:12:32 -0700, Oren wrote:

> Or it was how the plastic was molded. Strings are not mentioned in the
> instructions.

It's night now, but I can snap a photo of the floaters in the morning.
Clearly the holes are put there for strings. No doubt about it.
Plus, the strings serve a useful purpose by keeping the floaters where
you want them to stay, especially when it's windy.

Googling, I tried to find mention of the string tying feature, but
it seems to be either so obvious they don't mention it - or - so
unusual.

None of these mention the tie down holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Floating-Tablet-Swimming-Chlorine-Dispenser/dp/B0051P98TI
http://www.yourpoolhq.com/floating-chlorine-dispenser-for-3-inch-tabs.html
http://www.amazon.com/Poolmaster-32157-Classic-Chlorine-Dispenser/dp/B004VU8EGW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400464687600&item=400464687600
http://www.amazon.com/Floating-Spa-Chemical-Feeder/dp/B002WKJ6XI
etc.

[Danny D]

On Tue, 07 May 2013 10:45:47 -0700, dennisgauge wrote:

> Redneck solution involves wrapping the smaller tube
> with electrical or duct tape to take up the slack.
> Drill for a cross pin to hold the pole at a
> predetermined length. Multiple holes in the smaller
> tube to make it adjustable.

Thanks for that suggestion.
That's what will try, if no coupling works.

I'll post pictures when I'm done.

[Danny D]

On Tue, 07 May 2013 13:50:03 -0700, Oren wrote:

> 12~14 ft. 1.5 inch round wooden dowel rod

> woodproducts.caldowel.com/images/products/detail/2-Oak-Dowel-Rods-x-48.jpg

I thought about wood but couldn't find a wooden dowel
long enough. 14 feet seems just about right.

I had trouble finding the price for them at that web
page, so I'll call 'em in the morning:
866-663-6935
http://woodproducts.caldowel.com/1-3-4-x-72-Dowel-Rods-Oak.aspx

[Danny D]

On Tue, 07 May 2013 10:33:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

>>You must be abusing yours. How in the
>>world would you get dents in it? It's not a hammer.
> Rodents dulled their teeth on the metal?! <g>

I hadn't even noticed the dents until you said that,
simply because the bends which break eventually caused
more problems, as did the cracks in the adjusting plastic.

I suspect the dents are from being brushed against the
sharp side of the pool edge, which has an overhang of
stone. But I'm not sure.

[tra...@optonline.net]

On May 8, 12:10 am, Danny D <Dan...@example.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 07 May 2013 11:12:32 -0700, Oren wrote:
> > Or it was how the plastic was molded. Strings are not mentioned in the
> > instructions.
>
> It's night now, but I can snap a photo of the floaters in the morning.
> Clearly the holes are put there for strings. No doubt about it.
> Plus, the strings serve a useful purpose by keeping the floaters where
> you want them to stay, especially when it's windy.
>
> Googling, I tried to find mention of the string tying feature, but
> it seems to be either so obvious they don't mention it - or - so
> unusual.

I've bought floating thermometers that came with string.
I would agree, that's what the holes are for. A lot of people
want the thermometer to be in one convenient place. On the
house side, for example, so that you can walk out, read the
temp, without having to figure out where it is, walk all the
way around to the other side, etc.

[Dan Espen]

Dowel won't be strong enough.
I think wood is completely impractical, but if I was determined,
I'd think about bamboo. My guess is that you'd need a diameter of
at least 2 inches to get the necessary stiffness.

--
Dan Espen

[Oren]

On Wed, 8 May 2013 04:10:00 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>Googling, I tried to find mention of the string tying feature, but
>it seems to be either so obvious they don't mention it - or - so
>unusual.

- tie a string

- don't tie a string

Make up my mind, will ya...

I keep the thermometer in the skimmer basket on the pool deck - out of
the sun / UV damage.

The thermometer tells me the surface temps in the pool.

[Oren]

On Wed, 8 May 2013 04:16:25 +0000 (UTC), Danny D <Dan...@example.com>
wrote:

>I thought about wood but couldn't find a wooden dowel
>long enough. 14 feet seems just about right.

I was goofin' with you about wood. But! It is a choice. I would not
pay for Oak, like you linked to.

The 1.75" piece you found will be strong. Find a longer one in
cheaper wood. Pine poles work on boats, giggin' fish and tossin' 12 #
fish in the boat floor. Used as push rods, poling is shallow water
over oyster beds - things cracker redneck boys do.

Pine is better when it "water-logs"... gets a patina.

Oh. Store it away from beavers.

[Alfred Fox]

On Wed, 08 May 2013 10:58:04 -0700, Oren wrote:

> I keep the thermometer in the skimmer basket on the pool deck - out of
> the sun / UV damage.

That's a good idea, because the thermometers I have always seem to
be unreadable after a year in the sun (and the blue torpedo type
sinks to the bottom of the pool so it can't easily be retrieved).

I like the clever idea of putting the thermometer in the skimmer
baskets (out of the sun but still in the water).

[Dean Hoffman]

On 5/6/13 12:03 AM, Danny D wrote:
> Over the years, I've bought & broken and finally given up on
> aluminum pool poles from the box & pool stores:
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12834169/img/12834169.jpg

I have no idea what telescoping tubing or pipe might cost.
Aluminum irrigation pipe is typically cut to 30 foot lengths. One man
can pick up an eight inch diameter pipe with reasonable effort. Suppose
you went with a 3" or so diameter pipe or square tube?
Is there such a thing as a telescoping mast for watercraft? Flagpole?

[Danny D]

On Wed, 08 May 2013 20:41:52 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:

> Suppose you went with ... square tube?

I like the idea of telescoping square tubes of aluminum.
They will be stronger than circular tubes & just as light.
And, the clamping mechanism will be simpler.

Googling for a source for 10 foot or longer lengths, I find
Grainger a bit pricy for the 6'foot lengths at $18:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/aluminum-square-tube-stock/aluminum/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-cl0

At Lowes, 8 feet of aluminum 1" square tubing Item #: 215640
Model #: 11392, is also pricy at $31.33.

Yet 1/2" SCH 40 (.840 OD X .109W) 6061-T6 Aluminum Structural Pipe
is about $26.40 for a twenty foot length:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/catalog_cart_view.php?msg=

Square aluminum pipe 1/2 SCH 40 (.840 OD X .109W) 6061-T6
Aluminum Structural Pipe at that same place is $26 for 20 feet:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/catalog_cart_view.php?msg=

There is a nice weight table for various sizes here:
http://www.metricmetal.com/products/sq_alumtube.htm

So, maybe the square aluminum is the best choice, since it
will withstand the corrosion better, and, it will be lighter,
and, if square, just as strong or stronger than the steel.

[Dan Espen]

Pretty sure, for equal weight, round tube is stronger than square.

--
Dan Espen

[bob haller]

On May 8, 11:10 pm, Dan Espen <des...@verizon.net> wrote:
> Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:
> > On Wed, 08 May 2013 20:41:52 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:
>
> >> Suppose you went with ... square tube?
>
> > I like the idea of telescoping square tubes of aluminum.
> > They will be stronger than circular tubes & just as light.
> > And, the clamping mechanism will be simpler.
>
> > Googling for a source for 10 foot or longer lengths, I find
> > Grainger a bit pricy for the 6'foot lengths at $18:

> >  http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/aluminum-square-tube-stock/aluminum/...

>
> > At Lowes, 8 feet of aluminum 1" square tubing Item #: 215640
> > Model #: 11392, is also pricy at $31.33.
>
> > Yet 1/2" SCH 40 (.840 OD X .109W) 6061-T6 Aluminum Structural Pipe
> > is about $26.40 for a twenty foot length:
> >  http://www.metalsdepot.com/catalog_cart_view.php?msg=
>
> > Square aluminum pipe 1/2 SCH 40 (.840 OD X .109W) 6061-T6
> > Aluminum Structural Pipe at that same place is $26 for 20 feet:
> >  http://www.metalsdepot.com/catalog_cart_view.php?msg=
>
> > There is a nice weight table for various sizes here:
> >  http://www.metricmetal.com/products/sq_alumtube.htm
>
> > So, maybe the square aluminum is the best choice, since it
> > will withstand the corrosion better, and, it will be lighter,
> > and, if square, just as strong or stronger than the steel.
>
> Pretty sure, for equal weight, round tube is stronger than square.
>
> --
> Dan Espen

round PVC pipe.....

[Jim Elbrecht]

bob haller <hal...@aol.com> wrote:

>On May 8, 11:10�pm, Dan Espen <des...@verizon.net> wrote:
>> Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:
>> > On Wed, 08 May 2013 20:41:52 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:
>>
>> >> Suppose you went with ... square tube?
>>
>> > I like the idea of telescoping square tubes of aluminum.
>> > They will be stronger than circular tubes & just as light.
>> > And, the clamping mechanism will be simpler.

-snip-

>>
>> Pretty sure, for equal weight, round tube is stronger than square.
>>
>> --
>> Dan Espen
>
>round PVC pipe.....

And now, to go full circle--- I'm pretty sure that if Danny D spent a
few bucks on a decent telescoping pole, he'd do it once, spend no time
on Usenet trying to build a better mousetrap-- and it would be the
lightest, strongest, cheapest pole [in the long run] possible.

I'm not kind to my tools. My $40 pole from 12 years ago did pool
service for 4-5 years and now knocks apples and peaches out of trees
in the summer-- and pours rock salt on my gutters in the winter.

Jim

[Danny D]

On Wed, 08 May 2013 23:10:22 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:

> Pretty sure, for equal weight, round tube is stronger than square.

Hmmm... can that be true?

Assuming the same material, round or square, I thought the four
corners on the square reinforced against the inevitable bending
forces that occur in pool cleaning better than would the round rod?

Googling, I see that an apples-to-apples comparison matters greatly,
as we don't care about compression or torsion strength, for example,
in a pool pole.

Also, the comparison, for home use, would not really be pound-for-pound
or even inch-for-inch, but dollars-per-fifteen-feet comparison, since
we're looking to compare bending strength for a cheap pole of round-steel
versus square steel (or, if the square steel is too heavy, square
aluminum).

[Danny D]

On Thu, 09 May 2013 02:26:42 -0700, bob haller wrote:

> round PVC pipe.....

PVC appears to be too flexible in the widths we're contemplating...

[Dan Espen]

Danny D <Dan...@example.com> writes:

> On Wed, 08 May 2013 23:10:22 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:
>
>> Pretty sure, for equal weight, round tube is stronger than square.
>
> Hmmm... can that be true?
>
> Assuming the same material, round or square, I thought the four
> corners on the square reinforced against the inevitable bending
> forces that occur in pool cleaning better than would the round rod?

I think the squared material _might_ be stronger at the corner.
But a millimeter away at the flat part, it's going to be less strong.
Since a square tube is mostly flat, I think we're talking mostly
less strong.

> Googling, I see that an apples-to-apples comparison matters greatly,
> as we don't care about compression or torsion strength, for example,
> in a pool pole.

Right, mostly resistance to bending.

> Also, the comparison, for home use, would not really be pound-for-pound
> or even inch-for-inch, but dollars-per-fifteen-feet comparison, since
> we're looking to compare bending strength for a cheap pole of round-steel
> versus square steel (or, if the square steel is too heavy, square
> aluminum).

No opinion on cost.
I think square comes up short in strength.

--
Dan Espen

[Danny D]

On Thu, 09 May 2013 10:40:33 -0400, Dan Espen wrote:

> I think the squared material _might_ be stronger at the corner.
> But a millimeter away at the flat part, it's going to be less strong.
> Since a square tube is mostly flat, I think we're talking mostly less
> strong.

I googled a lot more, and almost all said the round cross section
was stronger "pound for pound"; and, particularly, we're talking
bending forces.

So, I think you're correct; the round tube (pound for pound) would
be stronger considering the bending force against the flat edges
of the square cross section.

Plus, round just seems "more comfortable" in human hands...

In summary, after googling s'more: Round seems to win hands down.
a) It's cheaper
b) It's (probably) stronger
c) It's (probably) more comfortable

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Wed, 08 May 2013 23:10:22 -0400, Dan Espen <des...@verizon.net>
wrote:

Certainly for equal weight. Given the same circumference/perimeter, a
circle is larger than a square. The disadvantage of the circle is
that telescoping sections will turn so it has to be clamped somehow.

[k...@attt.bizz]

On Thu, 9 May 2013 02:26:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:

Too heavy.