Try using waterless hand cleaner - like mechanics use. Goop is one
brand. Scrub it into the stain dry with a stiff brush. Then hose it
off thoroughly. I use the stuff on black grease on clothes, and it
completely removes the grease.
Bob
.
You will probably never get it all from the pores. I'd try some Oil Dry
first, letting it stand a few days, they I'd try soaking it with Dawn and
hosing it off.
What am I saying? No, I'd just probably just learn to live with it. They
do make mats to go under grills that are supposed to stop that from
happening.
Thank you for your replies. I feel extremely stupid that we did not
get the mat (first house + first grill = newbies). Thank you for you
suggestions, I will try it.
PS I am getting used to the idea of living with these stains.
Muriatic acid might work if you remember to be extremely careful not to
touch it or breathe the fumes.
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.html
and don't keep it around if you have kids
or replace a few pavers if it really bugs you.
once you get old lots of stuff that bugs you now will be invisible
once your 50 years old or more:(
>Muriatic acid might work if you remember to be extremely careful not to
>touch it or breathe the fumes.
Probably not. Acids will attack the bricks, but do nothing to the grease. A
strong alkali such as lye or washing soda would be a better bet: it will
attack the grease, and do nothing to the bricks.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Muriatic acid won't do much at all to the brick but will tend to
dissolve mortar if the joints are (didn't note if OP said). (There's a
reason it's used for cleanup of new masonry where needed :) ).
--
Another favorite of mechanics everywhere is 'Fast Orange' by Permatex.
Coat liberally, let it soak overnight and hose off. Even better, try
some of the pro products at a janitorial supply store. Odds are they
will have some really rough stuff that is made for the job. Cleaning
commercial kitchens with such is what pros do, but mind the
instructions, they aren't for the careless and clueless. HTH
Joe
Good old spray can oven cleaner which just happens to be a buck a can
at the ace hardware the next week or so.
The lye will render the grease a bit more water soluble. You might
need to repeat the application.
TSP is the "standard" -- available any hardware/paint/box store.
If there's a lot on the surface yet, the kitty litter to absorb what is
there is good first. Wouldn't go buy it just for the purpose, but if
happen to have some, dry concrete/cement/mortar works well as an
absorbent as well.
I probably shouldn't say it, but another "trick" which can work fairly
well to get rid of a fair amount is a match. That assumes, of course,
it's not right against a wood-sided house or other low overhang...and
you keep/have a hose handy. :)
--
Along with other things suggested: is Greased Lightning.
Driveway oil stains I've always been able to remove with cat litter. Pour
on. Let it st a couple of days. Remove and pour on some more. Grind in hard
with foot. Lot it sit. Maybe another round if you want.
Then there's Greased Lightning. Have seen that do good on a lot of hopeless
stuff.
>Along with other things suggested: is Greased Lightning.
>
>Driveway oil stains I've always been able to remove with cat litter. Pour
>on. Let it st a couple of days. Remove and pour on some more. Grind in hard
>with foot. Lot it sit. Maybe another round if you want.
>
>Then there's Greased Lightning. Have seen that do good on a lot of hopeless
>stuff.
Follow this method above ... I buy a gallon of concentrate Greased
Lightening and dilute as needed. IIRC a product called "purple stuff"
is now Greased Lightening((??).
Just the other day, while working around the pool I spilled some
muriatic acid on a paver (landscape type). right away I washed it off
( and my light ankle splatter ). It looked better than new; regarding.
a clean look.
--
Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..