bending nails
gcotterl
through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
(I'm not using a brad-nailer).
dpb
> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer the nails
> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
A) Better technique (gotta' hit 'em straight and hard enough)
B) Failing A), larger pilot hole
--
willshak
> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
They have to be nailed straight on, any other angle of the strike
between the hammer and nail can bend them.
They must be struck with lighter hits than thicker nails. More like
tapping them in. That way, if the nails starts to bend, you can stop and
straighten it, or pull it out and reinstall a new nail.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
You can also try holding the nail with a pair of needle-nosed pliers
to help hold it straight, but hitting it squarely without any sideways
motion of the hammer head when you hit it squarely is still the only
sure-fire method, and, even then, cheap finishing nails from a cheap
hardware store like the Menards chain of stores are softer and bend
more than high-quality nails. Some of the Menards nails are not much
better than hard butter.
JIMMIE
I got a little doer as a gift about 35 years ago dont know what you
call it but its a tube with a plunger inside. You put the the nain in
the tube push hard on the plundger and it drives the nail. Damned hand
for getting in difficult spots.When I got it I couldnt belive you
could push a nail into wood like that but it works great.
Jimmie
JIMMIE
OK my CRS cleared a bit....its called a push hammer. Even my wife can
drive a nail in straight with one of these.
Jimmie
dpb
C) If can locally, find a better quality nail (really, really hard any
more w/ most everything being Chinese or even worse imports)
I've supplies from 50-lb boxes or even kegs of virtually everything I
use routinely that date from 30 to 50 years ago and the comparison to
present stuff is night and day...much better steel and better-formed
heads, points are actually well-formed, etc., etc., etc., ...
--
Vic Smith
Some nails are softer than others, some wood harder.
If you've pre-dilled holes you're probably not hitting the nail
square.
One time I was laid off from work and my brother gave me a job
putting up a sound wall/double entrance at a neighborhood bar.
I'm no carpenter, just handy.
The bar is open while I'm working, and there's maybe 5 locals sitting
at the bar.
One is a carpenter, 3 sheets to the wind.
First he starts commenting about my circular saw, an old Craftsman
with sleeve bearing, loud as hell.
Then when I start banging nails in the new studs, the nails bend.
The new pine or fir 2x4's are dense as hell, and still a bit green.
The carpenter is saying stuff like "You ain't no damn carpenter,"
and generally razzing me.
I tell him I know I''m not a carpenter and humor him.
He's drunk. Still embarrassing me though.
I don't care that's he's drunk. He's telling the truth.
Would have been worse if he was sober.
My brother was there and he's a hothead and was getting pissed at the
guy, so I had to calm him down.
The carpenter gets up and leaves.
I keep bending nails. Probably 2 for every 1 driven.
After five minutes the carpenter is back.
He's got his hammer.
He's says, "You ain't no fucking carpenter, let me show you how to
drive a nail."
My brother says "Get the fuck out of here," and starts to go for him.
I calmed him down again, and told the carpenter to have at it.
He had a better hammer than mine.
He bent 5 nails and left the bar. Never said another word.
That was the only good part of this job.
--Vic
Steve B
"gcotterl" <gcot...@co.riverside.ca.us> wrote in message
news:6efa2be5-fb78-448b...@k3g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
> (I'm not using a brad-nailer).
Could be:
inferior nails
modern nails not built like the old days
incorrect angle of strike by hammerrer
round face on hammer
incorrect hammer for the job
really dense wood that anything would bend in
Solutions:
Better quality nails
one of those new hammers that does it for you and hits it straight
as one said, larger pilot holes
beeswax the nails and hole prior to use
try hammer with checkered face or definitely flat face
Steve
Don Phillipson
news:6efa2be5-fb78-448b...@k3g2000prl.googlegroups.com...
> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
> (I'm not using a brad-nailer).
Would it not save time and trouble to use a nail-gun?
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
knuckle...@nowhere.gov
It's a dang nuisance that one can't remember where one got a
particularly useful gadget. You could try:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/index.aspx
They have a spring loaded set something like you describe.
Unfortunately I don't see the two items I use to solve this problem.
One, the one I think I bought from Lee Valley ten or so years ago,
looks like an old-fashioned screwdriver with a red wooden handle and
the tang going through it so you can strike the end with a hammer. But
it's not a screwdriver. It has a sprung cylindrical tube with an
internal plunger. You put the nail into the tube, place the tube over
the point into which you want to nail and hammer away. The tube won't
allow the nail to bend and the plunger will extend about 1/16" and
countersink the nail at the same time. The risk is that you can
overdrive the nail and push the tube into the surrounding wood.
The second solution was available from places like Hartville Tool,
McFeely's and even IIRC Sears. It consists of a round bit (only
describes as such because it's chucked into a cordless drill) with a
diameter of about 1/2". In the center is a hole into which you insert
the nail. You'll find it's gripped by teeth similar to those of an
internal pipe wrench. You put the projecting end of the nail where you
want to drive it and push while turning on the drill. Effectively you
use the nail as a drill bit. No pilot hole is generally necessary
Smitty Two
Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> On Wed, 8 Jun 2011 09:58:59 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
> <gcot...@co.riverside.ca.us> wrote:
>
> There is an art to swinging a hammer:
>
> - you don't get exhausted
>
> - keep your eye on the nail
>
> - less bent nails
>
> Is your hammer a finish hammer?
And, let the weight and momentum of the hammer do the work. A simple
concept but one oft overlooked.
HeyBub
> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
> (I'm not using a brad-nailer).
Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF for under
$20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer for pounding
everything EXCEPT nails.
'Course you'll need a compressor, too.
gcotterl
Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.
Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
> Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
> since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.
>
> Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
> bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.
You've got 26 feet of molding to install. Suck it up and deal with the
damn bent nails.
mm
Shoot down the wall cabinets and bulldoze the countertops.
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
> On Thu, 9 Jun 2011 07:00:55 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
>
Do you mean "duct tape" ?
HeyBub
> On Jun 9, 5:45 am, "HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote:
>> gcotterl wrote:
>>> How do I prevent finish nails from bending when I hammer then nails
>>> through pre-drilled holes in quarter-round oak molding into drywall?
>>> (I'm not using a brad-nailer).
>>
>> Use a brad nailer. A perfectly acceptable one is available from HF
>> for under $20. Once you get a brad nailer, you'll use your hammer
>> for pounding everything EXCEPT nails.
>>
>> 'Course you'll need a compressor, too.
>
> Buying a brad nailer and a compressor doesn't make economic sense
> since I have only 26 feet of molding to install.
Okay, get a brad nailer and a compressed air tank. Fill the tank at the gas
station or off a friend's compressor. Tank should cost about $25.00.
>
> Getting a good, straight swing with the hammer is hard because I'm
> bending over countertops and ducking under wall cabinets.
All the more reason for a brad nailer, etc. You've got more than $150 worth
of aggravation otherwise.
Steve B
"HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in message
news:2IydndIiRt_tXW3Q...@earthlink.com...
Bought a new DeWalt with cart and hose the other day at yard sale for $60
............
Used it already on the back forty for fencing that had to be stapled to
cedar posts. What a joy. The guy working for me even commented that it was
light years ahead of fence staples.
Steve
Steve B
reply:
This is when you find the value of the economic sense of buying a tool that
will do the job RIGHT quickly. And future jobs. Pancake compressors can be
had for $50, and nailers for $20-$100. Why putz with anything else?
Steve
Joe
Put the molding up with construction adhesive. Hold the molding in
place with painters tape or some other ingenious trick until the
adhesive cures. Doesn't take long and there are NO holes to putty.
Joe
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
It's one PITA if you ever have to take the molding down.
Joe
wrote:
Less trouble actually because the drywall paper stuck on the back is
easily removed. The whole length of molding is not normally adhesive
coated, just enough to keep the trim in place. BTDT..
Joe
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
...and now you have no paper, or worse, ripped paper on the drywall. No
thanks!