Fuel oil leg replacement-Any tips?
Mike H
and located in my basement. The legs are rusted badly, one missing the
bottom 2". The tank is leaning on a cast iron soil pipe against a wall.
Is there an easy way to do this? A verbal quote from a contractor was "about
$200".
Here are my plans:
Make 1 or 2 jacks out of angle iron, all-thread, nuts and bolts to attach to
the leg brackets. The leg brackets already have 2 holes in each.
Wait until it is 1/4 full.
Shut off the heater, close the valve on the tank.
Jack up the tank.
Remove old rusty legs.(I hope they come out easily)
Install new legs. Legs on valve end 1" shorter than the other end.
Any other ideas or suggestions?
Thanks,
MikeH
m Ransley
100lb 70 gal of fuel apx 550lb, 650 lb could cause alot of damage
falling. Wait till it has less fuel.
Red Neckerson
"Mike H" <1newsATstelliteDOTmailshellDOTcom> wrote in message
news:y5-dnV3-sKK...@comcast.com...
Sounds like you have a problem with something other than the legs. Unless
your's is different, those legs are made from thick black iron pipe. If
there is any rust on them, it's probably just surface rust. If the tank is
leaning, it's probably the brackets going bad (bending and about to snap
next time you get a load).
If you INSIST on changing the legs (thinking that will solve the problem):
Spray the legs with penitrating oil. Get them good and wet. Then be careful
when you do it.
I can remember doing it one time and one of the brackets broke off the tank
completely when we tried to get the leg off. That's a good sign you need a
new tank...
SQLit
"Mike H" <1newsATstelliteDOTmailshellDOTcom> wrote in message
news:y5-dnV3-sKK...@comcast.com...
There is an product at my local steel store, Capitol Metals in Tempe AZ.
that is Boxed channel. The channel has holes every 1/2" or so and they will
nest inside of each other.
Might be easier than the angle iron.
Better check to see that your connection to the furnace/boiler is flexible
enough for what you have in mind.
John Hines
>Is there an easy way to do this? A verbal quote from a contractor was "about
>$200".
That is it, pay the man. Think of what happens if something goes wrong.
An oil spill could be a real problem($$).
Mike H
"Red Neckerson" <MaryKKKC...@theWHITEhouse.com> wrote in message
news:u4Hld.4331$GV5.251@trnddc04...
I think someone put the wrong type in because they are surely rusted at the
bottom of 3 legs, one not even touching the concrete floor. I will be sure
to put black iron in when I change them.
I am going to wait to spray them with penetrating oil because I am concerned
that the oil may help the rusted portion of the legs become weaker.
The brackets look ok, are not bent at all. The tank is painted.
I would get a new tank, but with the cost of oil rising so fast I may decide
to switch to another fuel. I guess if a bracket does come off though I will
be buying a new tank.
Thanks,
MikeH
Mike H
"SQLit" <SQLit...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:UVKld.310299$a85.94564@fed1read04...
It's copper, I am hoping that it is flexible enough. It's holding ok so far
I am hoping it will go back up. I do have a flaring tool handy if it needs a
new end on it or if I have to repair some of the line.
I am thinking of using 1/4" thick angle iron and 1/2" all-thread for the
jacks. The oil weighs allot. I may have to let the oil level go down more.
Someone else mentioned it would be about 650 lbs at 1/4 full.
Thanks,
MikeH
Stormin Mormon
treated lumber, and custom build yourself a support frame of some kind
under the tank. I've never done this, and I'm just thinking out loud.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com
"Mike H" <1newsATstelliteDOTmailshellDOTcom> wrote in message
news:y5-dnV3-sKK...@comcast.com...
HaHaHa
>
>I'm not there to see, but what came to mind to me was to buy some pressure
>treated lumber, and custom build yourself a support frame of some kind
>under the tank. I've never done this, and I'm just thinking out loud.
Christopher A. Young
>Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> www.mormons.com
>
How about some 3" PVC coated Kindorf or B-Line channel, and 2 of the biggest
mother f-in pipe straps ever seen by mankind? =:-)
>
>"Mike H" <1newsATstelliteDOTmailshellDOTcom> wrote in message
>news:y5-dnV3-sKK...@comcast.com...
>I will be replacing the legs on my home heating oil tank. It's 275 gallons
>and located in my basement. The legs are rusted badly, one missing the
>bottom 2". The tank is leaning on a cast iron soil pipe against a wall.
>Is there an easy way to do this? A verbal quote from a contractor was "about
>$200".
>Here are my plans:
>Make 1 or 2 jacks out of angle iron, all-thread, nuts and bolts to attach to
>the leg brackets. The leg brackets already have 2 holes in each.
>Wait until it is 1/4 full.
>Shut off the heater, close the valve on the tank.
>Jack up the tank.
>Remove old rusty legs.(I hope they come out easily)
>Install new legs. Legs on valve end 1" shorter than the other end.
>
>Any other ideas or suggestions?
>Thanks,
>MikeH
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Chet Hayes
How old is the tank? If it's old enough for the legs to have rusted
away, I'd be concerned about what condition the rest of the tank is
in. It's more common for these to fail from leaks from water rusting
away the inside of the tank, rather than the legs. Most likely, the
whole thing should be replaced.
Mike H
"Chet Hayes" <tra...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:b81a861b.04111...@posting.google.com...
The tank is 35 years old and is in the basement. The floor gets wet a few
times every year. So I am hoping that since it's inside there would be
little or no condensation to help rust the inside of the tank.
I have seen some tubs that are designed to fit under the tank and hold about
20 gallons. It's for slow leaks I suppose. I'll probably put one of those
under it.
MikeH
cabinetrod
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/fuel-oil-leg-replacement-any-tips-567371-.htm
Clare Snyder
<dee99ef979f6304a...@example.com> wrote:
>I have the same problem so I pan to weld up a strong frame to lift the tank with bottle jacks, build a second frame that bolts on to predrilled holes .
rusts through and dumps fuel everywhere. Up here tanks must be
replaced every 15 to 25 years depending on the tank construction. Some
insurance companys will not cover (new policy) a house with a tank
over 10 years old
terry
trader_4
itself likely isn't far behind. I would think most tanks fail before the legs. Do you
really want to push your luck?
Scott Lurndal
>On Tuesday, August 2, 2022 at 12:01:43 PM UTC-4, terry wrote:
>> For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/fuel-oi=
>l-leg-replacement-any-tips-567371-.htm
>
>Probably, but like Clare said, if the legs are rusted to the point of failu=
>re, the tank
>itself likely isn't far behind. I would think most tanks fail before the l=
>really want to push your luck?
conditions (e.g. water on the floor, condensation in humid cool basements, etc).
The interior of the tank will be well lubricated by the FO, and may be constructed
from more durable materials than the legs.
trader_4
Water condensation goes to the bottom.
TimR
n the floor, condensation in humid cool basements, etc).
> >
> > The interior of the tank will be well lubricated by the FO, and may be constructed
> > from more durable materials than the legs.
> IDK, plenty of fuel tanks fail, rusting from the inside out, sitting in basements, etc.
> Water condensation goes to the bottom.