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how to disassemble needle nose pliers
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Frank Thompson
Apr 10, 2014, 6:06:13 AM4/10/14
to
How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
Bob_Villa
Apr 10, 2014, 6:36:53 AM4/10/14
to
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:06:13 AM UTC-5, Frank Thompson wrote:
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
You don't! You're done! (I would add MOST people refer to "long-nose pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcQtcnVBu1I5Vul5iZbB4_zpsa96764b9.jpg
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcTIGCLK0eq2q5YiOFvS1_zpsb6185fe9.jpg
Stormin Mormon
Apr 10, 2014, 6:48:34 AM4/10/14
to
and cannot be dissembled. That said, some
times I have been able to spray the center
pivot with WD-40 or Castle Thrust, and
exercise the joint, spraying every couple
opening and closing. Be generous with the
spray, and some times the rust will lift
out. I'd seriously consider replace them,
rather than go through all that work.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
JAS
Apr 10, 2014, 10:47:32 AM4/10/14
to
Frank Thompson wrote:
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
>
You might try this,
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html
I have never used it but a friend did and claims it works. Just a
thought if you have a Harbor Freight near by.
Mr.E
Apr 10, 2014, 11:29:22 AM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 03:06:13 -0700 (PDT), Frank Thompson
<gn...@windstream.net> wrote:
>How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
I have had good results with PB Blaster penetrant. May take several
<gn...@windstream.net> wrote:
>How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that is the worse case of frozen I've seen. Got it unfrozen using various commercial solvents for this, but still impossible to operate by hand. Takes an adjustable wrench on each handle to open and close (or an arbor press to close.
applications but usually 2 or 3 times works for me. Getting old and
forgetting to put things up causes rusted joints to appear.
Be sure to apply to jaw, handle and sides.
--
Mr.E
Oren
Apr 10, 2014, 11:48:55 AM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 08:47:32 -0600, JAS <jasfor...@outlook.com>
wrote:
>You might try this,
>http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html
>I have never used it but a friend did and claims it works. Just a
>thought if you have a Harbor Freight near by.
The most recent review on the link, the product was used on frozen
pliers :)
5 reviews with 5 stars.
wrote:
>You might try this,
>http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html
>I have never used it but a friend did and claims it works. Just a
>thought if you have a Harbor Freight near by.
pliers :)
5 reviews with 5 stars.
nestork
Apr 10, 2014, 11:38:35 AM4/10/14
to
'Frank Thompson[_2_ Wrote:
> ;3220800']How does one disassemble needle nose pliers? Have a pair that
I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and
caused the two sides to rust.
I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
the drive axle.
I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the
need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill
for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But,
bring your own plastic container.
And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
available to consumers, so be careful with it.
--
nestork
Stormin Mormon
Apr 10, 2014, 12:32:02 PM4/10/14
to
On 4/10/2014 11:38 AM, nestork wrote:
>
> Frank:
> I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and
> caused the two sides to rust.
>
> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
> the drive axle.
>
> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
>
> Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the
> need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill
> for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But,
> bring your own plastic container.
>
> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
>
I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's
>
> Frank:
> I expect that moisture has gotten into the joint in the pliers and
> caused the two sides to rust.
>
> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
> the drive axle.
>
> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
>
> Any masonary contractor will have muriatic acid if you don't feel the
> need to buy a gallon or quart for yourself. If you give then a $5 bill
> for their effort, I'm sure they'd give you enough to do the job. But,
> bring your own plastic container.
>
> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
>
fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have
them.
gopher stew
Apr 10, 2014, 2:19:55 PM4/10/14
to
"Bob_Villa" <pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:392f184c-c370-4bcd...@googlegroups.com...
sorry to bust your fantasy world, but i ain't never heard them called anything but needle-nose for 50 years. no body i know calls them long nose pliers. you're the first one.
dpb
Apr 10, 2014, 2:17:11 PM4/10/14
to
On 4/10/2014 10:38 AM, nestork wrote:
...
> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
> the drive axle.
>
> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
...
You've rediscovered the wheel... :)
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid#Pickling_of_steel>
--
...
> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
> the drive axle.
>
> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
You've rediscovered the wheel... :)
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid#Pickling_of_steel>
--
Thomas
Apr 10, 2014, 2:24:07 PM4/10/14
to
On Thursday, April 10, 2014 6:06:13 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
Drill it out. Re-bolt. Ugly? yes.
> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
micky
Apr 10, 2014, 2:49:58 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 13:17:11 -0500, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>On 4/10/2014 10:38 AM, nestork wrote:
>...
>
>> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
>> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
>> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
>> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
>> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
>> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
>> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
>> the drive axle.
A friend had a wheel rusted to a front axle. I think he's sold the car
>On 4/10/2014 10:38 AM, nestork wrote:
>...
>
>> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
>> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
>> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
>> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
>> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
>> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
>> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
>> the drive axle.
by now, which is a shame because I'd love to try your remedy here.
Click and Clack recommended loosening the lug nuts and driving around.
Didn't get to do that either. It wouldn't work on a snow blower,
because you can't go fast enough.
Copy to him, for the next time.
micky
Apr 10, 2014, 2:51:38 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 11:24:07 -0700 (PDT), Thomas <cano...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>On Thursday, April 10, 2014 6:06:13 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
>> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
>
>Drill it out. Re-bolt. Ugly? yes.
Well, I did re-bolt a very large pair of water pump pliers. I found the
two halves already separated in the trash barrel at a gas station.
It's worked fine on an occasional basis for 5 years now.
wrote:
>On Thursday, April 10, 2014 6:06:13 AM UTC-4, Frank Thompson wrote:
>> How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
>
>Drill it out. Re-bolt. Ugly? yes.
two halves already separated in the trash barrel at a gas station.
It's worked fine on an occasional basis for 5 years now.
Bob_Villa
Apr 10, 2014, 2:54:00 PM4/10/14
to
Danny D.
Apr 10, 2014, 4:51:28 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 12:32:02 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
>> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that
>> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
>> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you
pull it out earlier rather than later.
What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/MnRFkwF0jQU[1-25-false]
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252772/img/12252772.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287619/img/12287619.jpg
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252771/img/12252771.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287169/img/12287169.jpg
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287553/img/12287553.jpg
etc. (many pictures in that thread)
Do they make a rubbery paint for chipped refrigerator wire racks?
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/alt.home.repair/phosphoric$20acid$20danny/alt.home.repair/rYTbqlRYuM4/lAJT0XYPBdsJ
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/9568891966_2d99e79f78_o.gif
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!original/alt.home.repair/rYTbqlRYuM4/lAJT0XYPBdsJ
As stated, Phosphoric acid (e.g., Naval Jelly) is also sold
in all the box stores, at about the same price for 16 ounces
as you pay for a gallon of HCL.
Both will remove rust. I'd try the phosphoric acid first,
and then, the brute force hydrochloric acid last.
When done, oil her up. Worked for me.
David L. Martel
Apr 10, 2014, 5:05:18 PM4/10/14
to
Danny,
Naval jelly isn't likely to get anywhere near the rust in the joint.
Fortunately, phosphoric acid in liquid form comes in red cans marked Coca
Cola. Coke is a famously cheap rust remover.
Dave M.
Naval jelly isn't likely to get anywhere near the rust in the joint.
Fortunately, phosphoric acid in liquid form comes in red cans marked Coca
Cola. Coke is a famously cheap rust remover.
Dave M.
nestork
Apr 10, 2014, 5:37:09 PM4/10/14
to
'David L. Martel[_2_ Wrote:
> ;3221007']Danny,
reacts with rust to form ferric phosphate, a black weak substance.
If you want to REMOVE the rust, then I'd just go with hydrochloric acid.
I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it
might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may
then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric
phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
--
nestork
Larry W
Apr 10, 2014, 7:03:57 PM4/10/14
to
In article <nestork...@diybanter.com>,
nestork <nestork...@diybanter.com> wrote:
<...snipped...>
when your done. If it remains in prolonged contact with iron & steel it
will cause quicker rusting later.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
nestork <nestork...@diybanter.com> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>If you want to REMOVE the rust, then I'd just go with hydrochloric acid.
>I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it
>might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may
>then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric
>phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
>know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
>
HCl will remove the rust but be sure to neutralize it and rinse completely off
>I don't know if hydrochloric acid will dissolve ferric phosphate, so it
>might be a bit of a gamble using the phosphoric acid first. You may
>then end up having to find something that'll dissolve the ferric
>phosphate. By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
>know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
>
when your done. If it remains in prolonged contact with iron & steel it
will cause quicker rusting later.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Danny D.
Apr 10, 2014, 7:51:51 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 23:37:09 +0200, nestork wrote:
> By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
> know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
I have nothing against HCL, and, the record shows,
> By just going with the hydrochloric acid first, then you
> know it'll dissolve any rust it encounters.
I use it all the time - but - anyone who hasn't used
it should be cautioned as to how powerful that stuff is.
I left some copper hose components in a bucket of the
stuff, for example, only a few minutes, and they were
holed beyond use.
micky
Apr 10, 2014, 8:30:51 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 11:54:00 -0700 (PDT), Bob_Villa
<pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Thursday, April 10, 2014 12:19:51 PM UTC-5, gopher stew wrote:
>> "Bob_Villa" <pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:392f184c-c370-4bcd...@googlegroups.com...
>>
>> > On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:06:13 AM UTC-5, Frank Thompson wrote:
>>
>> > > How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
>>
>> >
>>
>> > You don't! You're done! (I would add MOST people refer to "long-nose pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
>>
>> > http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcQtcnVBu1I5Vul5iZbB4_zpsa96764b9.jpg
>>
>> > http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcTIGCLK0eq2q5YiOFvS1_zpsb6185fe9.jpg
>>
I thought one was a needle nose and the other a needler nose.
<pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>On Thursday, April 10, 2014 12:19:51 PM UTC-5, gopher stew wrote:
>> "Bob_Villa" <pheeh...@gmail.com> wrote in message news:392f184c-c370-4bcd...@googlegroups.com...
>>
>> > On Thursday, April 10, 2014 5:06:13 AM UTC-5, Frank Thompson wrote:
>>
>> > > How does one disassemble needle nose pliers?
>>
>> >
>>
>> > You don't! You're done! (I would add MOST people refer to "long-nose pliers" as NNP...because it's cute~not because it's accurate)
>>
>> > http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcQtcnVBu1I5Vul5iZbB4_zpsa96764b9.jpg
>>
>> > http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x430/BenDarrenBach/imagesqtbnANd9GcTIGCLK0eq2q5YiOFvS1_zpsb6185fe9.jpg
>>
micky
Apr 10, 2014, 8:51:56 PM4/10/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 20:51:28 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." <dan...@is.invalid>
wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 12:32:02 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>
>>> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
>>> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
>
>Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that
>also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
>
>I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you
>pull it out earlier rather than later.
> What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/MnRFkwF0jQU[1-25-false]
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252772/img/12252772.jpg
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287619/img/12287619.jpg
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252771/img/12252771.jpg
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287169/img/12287169.jpg
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287553/img/12287553.jpg
> etc. (many pictures in that thread)
A lot of tools and other things can have their rust removed with a wire
wheel, in place of a grindstone on a bench grinder. It works quickly,
leaves a beautful finish. Most things look as if they were new (I'm not
saying like new, like they themselves looked like when they were new,
because they might have been shiny) but they look beautiful
And it's a one-step process. BE SURE TO WEAR GOGGLES BECAUSE THE
WIRES DO COME OUT OF THE WHEEL WHILE IT SPINS. ONE OF THEM ACTUALLY
STUCK ITSELF IN SKIN, IN MY FOREHEAD. DIDN'T SHOW BLOOD WHEN I PULLED
IT OUT, BUT WOULDN'T WANT TO DO THAT WITH MY EYE.
Even wood things might look great after time on the wheel. I did have
some problem with a saw blade, that seemed thicker than originally when
I was done. Maybe that was that particular blade and others would come
out fine.
wrote:
>On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 12:32:02 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>
>>> And, of course, muriatic acid is about the strongest acid that's readily
>>> available to consumers, so be careful with it.
>
>Easy to get HCL in gallon quantities at any box store that
>also sells pool equipment (e.g., Home Depot, Lowes, etc.).
>
>I've put LOTS of stuff in HCL, so, just be careful that you
>pull it out earlier rather than later.
> What's a good way to get rid of rain surface rust on tools left outside
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/MnRFkwF0jQU[1-25-false]
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252772/img/12252772.jpg
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287619/img/12287619.jpg
> http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12252771/img/12252771.jpg
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287169/img/12287169.jpg
> http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12287553/img/12287553.jpg
> etc. (many pictures in that thread)
wheel, in place of a grindstone on a bench grinder. It works quickly,
leaves a beautful finish. Most things look as if they were new (I'm not
saying like new, like they themselves looked like when they were new,
because they might have been shiny) but they look beautiful
And it's a one-step process. BE SURE TO WEAR GOGGLES BECAUSE THE
WIRES DO COME OUT OF THE WHEEL WHILE IT SPINS. ONE OF THEM ACTUALLY
STUCK ITSELF IN SKIN, IN MY FOREHEAD. DIDN'T SHOW BLOOD WHEN I PULLED
IT OUT, BUT WOULDN'T WANT TO DO THAT WITH MY EYE.
Even wood things might look great after time on the wheel. I did have
some problem with a saw blade, that seemed thicker than originally when
I was done. Maybe that was that particular blade and others would come
out fine.
bob haller
Apr 10, 2014, 9:48:27 PM4/10/14
to
I had a old pair of my long dead grandpas. I put it in a pan and covered them with oil, checked back in a week they worked like new.
Just a week ago I found 2 brand new rotors for my van, they were on a top shelf and rusted from a leaky water pipe, copper that developed a pin hole.
while I pondered wire brushing them my girl friend immersed them in a pan covered each one with vinegar. Wierdly ALL the rust disappeared, although the once rusty areas had a mottled look. So I used a scothbrite pad on them. they looked brand new:)
and worked fine on the van
Just a week ago I found 2 brand new rotors for my van, they were on a top shelf and rusted from a leaky water pipe, copper that developed a pin hole.
while I pondered wire brushing them my girl friend immersed them in a pan covered each one with vinegar. Wierdly ALL the rust disappeared, although the once rusty areas had a mottled look. So I used a scothbrite pad on them. they looked brand new:)
and worked fine on the van
Stormin Mormon
Apr 11, 2014, 1:43:13 PM4/11/14
to
On 4/10/2014 12:32 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
> On 4/10/2014 11:38 AM, nestork wrote:
>>
>> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
>> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
>> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
>>
>
> On 4/10/2014 11:38 AM, nestork wrote:
>>
>> I find that muriatic acid dissolves the rust far more aggressively than
>> it does the steel. In fact, it appears to do nothing more than clean
>> the steel, but it definitely dissolves the rust.
>>
>
> I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's
> fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have
> them.
Just for grins and giggles, I got the old fence
> fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have
> them.
pliers, laying in he muddy gravel in front of my
trailer where I left them about three or four
years ago. I found my old jug of muriatic, and
poured some on. Then, I took a sandwich bag and
pour some in, and let that soak. Took them out,
and beat on em with a hammer, and used a cold
chisel right behind the pivot to put some separating
force. The joint loosened up a bit. Hit it with
hammer some more. Pour some more acid on,and work
it with muscle power. After a while the joint
loosened up, as free as the day it was born. I'm
thrilled and giggling, and thankful to the kind
people on this list.
I'm going to leave the pliers some where dry, over
night. and then lubricate with a couple drops of
motor oil.
Thank you Nestork, and anyone else who suggested.
Oren
Apr 11, 2014, 2:19:45 PM4/11/14
to
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 13:43:13 -0400, Stormin Mormon
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's
>> fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have
>> them.
>
>Just for grins and giggles, I got the old fence
>pliers, laying in he muddy gravel in front of my
>trailer where I left them about three or four
>years ago. I found my old jug of muriatic, and
>poured some on. Then, I took a sandwich bag and
>pour some in, and let that soak. Took them out,
>and beat on em with a hammer, and used a cold
>chisel right behind the pivot to put some separating
>force. The joint loosened up a bit. Hit it with
>hammer some more. Pour some more acid on,and work
>it with muscle power. After a while the joint
>loosened up, as free as the day it was born. I'm
>thrilled and giggling, and thankful to the kind
>people on this list.
>
>I'm going to leave the pliers some where dry, over
>night. and then lubricate with a couple drops of
>motor oil.
>
>Thank you Nestork, and anyone else who suggested.
Did you neutralize the acid with a solution of water and baking soda?
<cayo...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I had, years ago, an old pair of country boy's
>> fence pliers. I may try this, if I still have
>> them.
>
>Just for grins and giggles, I got the old fence
>pliers, laying in he muddy gravel in front of my
>trailer where I left them about three or four
>years ago. I found my old jug of muriatic, and
>poured some on. Then, I took a sandwich bag and
>pour some in, and let that soak. Took them out,
>and beat on em with a hammer, and used a cold
>chisel right behind the pivot to put some separating
>force. The joint loosened up a bit. Hit it with
>hammer some more. Pour some more acid on,and work
>it with muscle power. After a while the joint
>loosened up, as free as the day it was born. I'm
>thrilled and giggling, and thankful to the kind
>people on this list.
>
>I'm going to leave the pliers some where dry, over
>night. and then lubricate with a couple drops of
>motor oil.
>
>Thank you Nestork, and anyone else who suggested.
Then let them dry out and oil...
Oren
Apr 11, 2014, 2:26:20 PM4/11/14
to
On Thu, 10 Apr 2014 18:48:27 -0700 (PDT), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:
I've read of people using white vinegar to clean mild rust off cast
iron skillets.
I made and used electrolysis tank for a large Dutch oven.
<http://oi33.tinypic.com/rmnwo5.jpg>
wrote:
iron skillets.
I made and used electrolysis tank for a large Dutch oven.
<http://oi33.tinypic.com/rmnwo5.jpg>
Stormin Mormon
Apr 11, 2014, 4:50:33 PM4/11/14
to
with a blast of lye based oven cleaner (which also
helps remove rust in some situations) and then
rinse with lots of water. Thank you for asking, and
catching my omission, I forgot to
Danny D.
Apr 11, 2014, 11:29:22 PM4/11/14
to
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 16:50:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
>> Did you neutralize the acid with a solution of water and baking soda?
BTW, as with any acid, I neutralized with just water and detergent -
>> Did you neutralize the acid with a solution of water and baking soda?
but lots and lots of it.
BEFORE PIC:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/13790410675_42ecc4b6f9.jpg
DURING PIC:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/13790409835_2b8f710c04.jpg
AFTER PIC:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/13790435873_0aa16341fa.jpg
Of course, HCL works MUCH FASTER!
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/13790746104_b47303b358.jpg
But, THIS happens if you don't neutralize concrete spills:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/13790436073_f151af73da.jpg
Stormin Mormon
Apr 11, 2014, 11:37:34 PM4/11/14
to
On 4/11/2014 11:29 PM, Danny D. wrote:
>
> BTW, as with any acid, I neutralized with just water and detergent -
> but lots and lots of it.
>
> BEFORE PIC:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/13790410675_42ecc4b6f9.jpg
>
> DURING PIC:
> http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/13790409835_2b8f710c04.jpg
>
> AFTER PIC:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/13790435873_0aa16341fa.jpg
>
> Of course, HCL works MUCH FASTER!
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/13790746104_b47303b358.jpg
>
> But, THIS happens if you don't neutralize concrete spills:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/13790436073_f151af73da.jpg
>
>
It's been a long time since I was in chemistry
>
> BTW, as with any acid, I neutralized with just water and detergent -
> but lots and lots of it.
>
> BEFORE PIC:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/13790410675_42ecc4b6f9.jpg
>
> DURING PIC:
> http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/13790409835_2b8f710c04.jpg
>
> AFTER PIC:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/13790435873_0aa16341fa.jpg
>
> Of course, HCL works MUCH FASTER!
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/13790746104_b47303b358.jpg
>
> But, THIS happens if you don't neutralize concrete spills:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/13790436073_f151af73da.jpg
>
>
class. But, I don't remember detergents neutralizing
acid. Remove maybe, but not neutralize. To
neutralize,you need an alkalai, or a carbonate.
I think mean acid spill on concrete, not "concrete
spill". I know, splitting hairs.
Stormin Mormon
Apr 12, 2014, 8:31:13 AM4/12/14
to
>> I've come across this problem before with the hubs of snow blower
>> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
>> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
>> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
>> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
>> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
>> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
>> the drive axle.
A friend of mine had such a situation, maybe
>> wheels rusting onto the drive axle of the snow blower. What I find
>> works well is to simpy apply muriatic acid (which is 26 or so percent
>> hydrochloric acid) to the joint between the wheel hub and the drive axle
>> with an eye dropper (which you can buy for $2 from any pharmacy).
>> Capillary action then draws the acid into that joint where it dissolves
>> the rust. Once the rust is fully dissolved, the wheel starts turning on
>> the drive axle.
20 years ago. I remember him offering me the
job of changing the impellor on his snow
thrower, and I didn't feel qualified.
Wish I'd known, then, what I do today.
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