How to make a speedbump-like concrete dam?
Ignoramus21718
One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
ingresses the building.
I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
it.
The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
DIY, or what?
What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
expectancy and keep water out?
i
aemeijers
Make life easy- buy a premade rubber one, and fasten it down with the
appropriate adhesive and big-ass bolts. Any commercial OH door place or
warehouse supply should have it.
The stuff won't be cheap, but to add new bumps to existing paving and
not have them fail quickly, is always hard.
--
aem sends...
Sjouke Burry
dnVMgP9LTEgrTn...@giganews.com:
A gutter right where the door is?
All garages at my place of work had that.
Pete C.
They make a rubber glue down strip for such purposes, kind of like a
heavy duty cord guard.
DerbyDad03
Dig a trench, drop in one of these and let the water drain off to
place that is less offensive...
http://www.fernco.com/stormdrain/channel-drains
Add one of these if you can't drain it "naturally"...
Ignoramus21718
> On 10/13/2011 9:24 PM, Ignoramus21718 wrote:
>> My factory building has two bay type garage doors.
>>
>> One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
>> above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
>> ingresses the building.
>>
>> I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
>> big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
>> it.
>>
>> The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
>> drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
>> is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
>>
>> I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
>> to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
>> DIY, or what?
>>
>> What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
>> expectancy and keep water out?
>> i
>
> Make life easy- buy a premade rubber one, and fasten it down with the
> appropriate adhesive and big-ass bolts. Any commercial OH door place or
> warehouse supply should have it.
Cool. Do I need to put grout or something under them, to seal them
against water ingress?
> The stuff won't be cheap, but to add new bumps to existing paving and
> not have them fail quickly, is always hard.
>
I understand and agree.
i
Tom Gardner
I have the same problem once or twice a year when the drain gets
overwhelmed. We have a small forklift on that side with small tires so
I can't put any permanent obstruction there. So, we have a pile of
sandbags on each side of the door and can quickly place them if it's
raining extremely hard or if a storm is expected in the night. It's
very cheap and works perfectly.
bob haller
>
> - Show quoted text -
you cant seal water out, as you suggest the only sure cure is to
redirect it.
Ignoramus17081
I love this solution!
i
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:UuWdnXuFFolkgQXT...@giganews.com:
> I love this solution!
You won't, once you've tried it (I can't even _count_ how many ways
you'll hate it)!
If you need to drive over with a forklift, they have ramps (which you
could make up yourself) just for that purpose -- just to make it up over
a short curb or some other impediment.
Such "dead Irishmen" speedbump materials are available in pre-cast
lengths, made from polymers, and able to be hot-melt (hot-stripe road
glue, not your craft thing) or epoxied to the (clean) concrete.
That, or a re-directing trench just AT the outside face of the doors are
the only two ways you're going to keep water out. If you used a narrow
trench, then you'd only need a simple plate of steel the get a forklift
over it.
(did you ever consider that a mass of sand is porous? <G>)
LLoyd
HeyBub
Not grout. It will crack under pressure and water will leak through the
cracks. Ask the place where you buy the rubber bumpers, but I would suspect
some sticky, flexible caulk-like materia.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:2NqdnZwp-4TLqAXT...@earthlink.com:
> Not grout. It will crack under pressure and water will leak through
> the cracks. Ask the place where you buy the rubber bumpers, but I
> would suspect some sticky, flexible caulk-like materia.
>
Yeah... Butyl will work if the solvent package won't hurt the polymer.
LLoyd
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
What if no storm is expected an it's a holiday morning or you're
dressed in the "Sunday go to meeting" clothes as that unexpected storm
blows through?
Can you honestly tell use that you been able to get the sandbags in
place just prior to the "once or twice a year" that your drain are
about to get overwhelmed?
Do the bags result in the shut down of your operation since the
forklift can't get over the sandbags?
Ignoramus17081
But hopefully the bags would not be porous. Nevertheless, I agree with
your argument. I will spend a couple hundred bucks on the proper
solution.
i
DerbyDad03
17081.invalid> wrote:
> On 2011-10-14, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
I used to use the "tyvek" covered sand bags in a conversion van I
owned to keep the rear end behind me during the winter.
Even though they were "waterproof" it only took a couple of seasons of
loading them into the van and then storing them under the deck for
them to get worn enough to leak a bit of sand here and there.
I would imagine that moving them around in a parking lot would result
in even more wear and tear.
In other words, they might not start out "porous" but they might
become that way fairly soon.
sta...@prolynx.com
Sounds like you need a gutter with a grill over it right outside the
doors connecting to the storm drain. Have seen that done in a number
of commercial garages. Might freeze up come snow time, though. In
that case, an electric gutter heater might be in order. Damming water
up with a bump is seldom a fix, just prolonging the inevitable. Most
places I've seen that have the guttering done, the grills are a foot
or two wide and extend well past both sides of the door. Usually the
roof drains feed into the same storm drain piping, not spewing all
over the pavement. Keeps from having sheets of ice all over the
parking area. Speaking of which, have you gotten any sort of snow
plowing or removal planned? Coming up on that time... If you get
three feet of snow and a fast thaw, all that water is going to go
somewhere. And have you inspected and cleaned the roof drains?
Stan
JIMMIE
>
> - Show quoted text -
Water sometimes comes down my neighbor's driveway and he has found
that placing the garden hose diagonally across his drive way redirects
a huge amount of the water away from his garage door.
Jimmie
Ignoramus17081
> On Oct 13, 7:24?pm, Ignoramus21718 <ignoramus21...@NOSPAM.
My neighbor runs a concrete company and he ran out of space. He parks
a truck on my property in exchange for snowplowing my yard.
As for the roof drain, I know for a fact that it was recently
cleaned.
i
DerbyDad03
>
> - Show quoted text -
How do you run out of space if you own a concrete company?
Just pour a big slab someplace and start using it. ;-)
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
wrote:
>On Oct 14, 1:56嚙緘m, Ignoramus17081 <ignoramus17...@NOSPAM.
>17081.invalid> wrote:
>> On 2011-10-14, sta...@prolynx.com <sta...@prolynx.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Oct 13, 7:24?pm, Ignoramus21718 <ignoramus21...@NOSPAM.
>> > 21718.invalid> wrote:
>> >> My factory building has two bay type garage doors.
>>
>> >> One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
>> >> above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
>> >> ingresses the building.
>>
>> >> I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
>> >> big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
>> >> it.
>>
>> >> The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
>> >> drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
>> >> is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
>>
>> >> I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
>> >> to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
>> >> DIY, or what?
>>
>> >> What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
>> >> expectancy and keep water out?
>> >> i
>>
>> > Sounds like you need a gutter with a grill over it right outside the
>> > doors connecting to the storm drain. 嚙瘡ave seen that done in a number
>> > of commercial garages. 嚙瞎ight freeze up come snow time, though. 嚙瘢n
>> > that case, an electric gutter heater might be in order. 嚙瘩amming water
>> > up with a bump is seldom a fix, just prolonging the inevitable. 嚙瞎ost
>> > places I've seen that have the guttering done, the grills are a foot
>> > or two wide and extend well past both sides of the door. 嚙磊sually the
>> > roof drains feed into the same storm drain piping, not spewing all
>> > over the pavement. 嚙皺eeps from having sheets of ice all over the
>> > parking area. 嚙磅peaking of which, have you gotten any sort of snow
>> > plowing or removal planned? 嚙瘠oming up on that time... 嚙瘢f you get
>> > three feet of snow and a fast thaw, all that water is going to go
>> > somewhere. 嚙璀nd have you inspected and cleaned the roof drains?
>>
>> My neighbor runs a concrete company and he ran out of space. He parks
>> a truck on my property in exchange for snowplowing my yard.
>>
>> As for the roof drain, I know for a fact that it was recently
>> cleaned.
>> i- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>How do you run out of space if you own a concrete company?
>
>Just pour a big slab someplace and start using it. ;-)
He did. ...on his neighbor's (17081's) land.
Tom Gardner
There is a trench with a steel grate there too but the drain pipe goes
straight through that part of the building, two floor drains are on that
pipe, then it goes out the back and dumps on the rail siding. The pipe
is only 4"...it should have been a LOT bigger!
Yep, if there is standing water in front of that door we can't load or
unload trucks there and we have to use the other overhead door for
shipping and receiving. That side of the building is a bit higher and
there's no problem with water but it's harder to move outgoing shipments
through the factory to that door.
The sandbags work just fine but we have to replace them about every
three years for $20 delivered from the supply house three blocks away.
Ignoramus17081
impermeable sleeve that I would fill with sand and lay in front of the
door?
If they exist, what are they called?
i
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
news:VtWdnbN5mfYqJQXT...@giganews.com:
> If they exist, what are they called?
>
> i
LLoyd
(no kiddin')
Steve W.
> But hopefully the bags would not be porous. Nevertheless, I agree with
> your argument. I will spend a couple hundred bucks on the proper
> solution.
>
> i
nice warm day and use the correct adhesive.
We did this on the fire station a few years ago when the concrete
settled a bit. Easy to do and works. The only thing to keep in mind is
do not turn while crossing the strips. Drive straight over them.
--
Steve W.
Ignoramus17081
Steve W.
Believe it was a garage door threshold
Yep This is the same kit.
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/doors-windows/garage-doors-openers-accessories/tsunami-seal/16-ft-garage-door-threshold-kit-black-83243.html
--
Steve W.
aemeijers
door. The ones I have seen actually in use are more like parking stop
strips- 6-8 inches wide, and at least a couple inches high. In addition
to the glue (which helps keep water from passing under), you do need to
spike them down with big lag screws.
--
aem sends...
Ignoramus17081
thick permanent goop to put under it to seal the gap between the floor
and the bump.
i
Winston
(...)
> My neighbor runs a concrete company and he ran out of space. He parks
> a truck on my property in exchange for snowplowing my yard.
http://www.amariandlocallo.com/pdf/Res_Adverse_Possession_Article.pdf
--Winston
Steve W.
We used these because they seal under the door and keep water out and
are not hard to drive over. The doors set down on them and stop the
water and snow. If you have 2" of water coming at the door you have a
MAJOR drainage issue.
--
Steve W.
Ignoramus17081
parking with my permission)
i
DoN. Nichols
though I've never bought from them. It might be a spinoff from the MSC
purchases, though it could be from other places which are less likely.
For that matter -- I keep getting e-mails wanting to purchase
something machinery related from me -- always listed in parens as though
someone was filling in a blank -- and of course wanting to know whether
I accept credit cards. :-)
"They" also want to know how many models and the prices.
Since I don't sell *anything* -- and *especially* anything new
-- I always figured that it came from someone going through
rec.crafts.metalworking to find possible victims. However, a friend who
never has posted here (yes, I know that this is also cross-posted to
alt.home.repair, but that is not where *I* found it :-), got one of
those recently too, so who knows where they are digging up addresses.
Even if I *did* sell things, I certainly would not respond to a
request like that. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Winston
in English as it does in Legalease. The court can
decide retroactively that you *did not grant legal
permission* even if you did indeed grant 'permission'.
From _Tapley v. Peterson_:
"..Next, the plaintiffs use of the land was not permissive (as
defendants contended), but hostile, because the “conduct of
the plaintiffs with respect to the driveway area was flatly
inconsistent with any claim of permissive use.."
It sounds like you would be on much firmer ground if
you *paid* your neighbor to plow snow and he *paid*
you a rental fee for his parking spaces. With contracts,
canceled checks and everything. Even if it is the same
damn 300 dollarettes sloshing back and forth between
your accounts.
I'm not a lawyer and certainly don't play one on USENET.
Please talk to your attorney about this?
--Winston
Ignoramus17081
> Ignoramus17081 wrote:
>> On 2011-10-15, Winston<Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>>> Ignoramus17081 wrote:
>>>
>>> (...)
>>>
>>>> My neighbor runs a concrete company and he ran out of space. He parks
>>>> a truck on my property in exchange for snowplowing my yard.
>>>
>>> Careful, Iggy.
>>> http://www.amariandlocallo.com/pdf/Res_Adverse_Possession_Article.pdf
>>>
>>> --Winston
>>
>> Yep. I will have to have him sign a paper to this effect. (he is
>> parking with my permission)
>
> "Permission" does not appear to have the same meaning
> in English as it does in Legalease. The court can
> decide retroactively that you *did not grant legal
> permission* even if you did indeed grant 'permission'.
>
> From _Tapley v. Peterson_:
>
> "..Next, the plaintiffs use of the land was not permissive (as
> inconsistent with any claim of permissive use.."
>
> It sounds like you would be on much firmer ground if
> you *paid* your neighbor to plow snow and he *paid*
> you a rental fee for his parking spaces. With contracts,
> canceled checks and everything. Even if it is the same
> damn 300 dollarettes sloshing back and forth between
> your accounts.
>
> I'm not a lawyer and certainly don't play one on USENET.
>
> Please talk to your attorney about this?
>
> --Winston
as:
I am parking my vehicles on ___ ___'s property at ___ ___, Berkeley
IL, with the permission of the owner, which may be revoked at any
time.
___ ___ Date
That ought to be enough.
What I will also do is I will park my truck there and will take
pictures, which proves that possession was not uninterrupted.
i
Winston
> On 2011-10-15, Winston<Win...@BigBrother.net> wrote:
>> Please talk to your attorney about this?
>>
>> --Winston
>
> I will talk to my lawyer. But if I get my neighbor to sign a statement such
> as:
>
> I am parking my vehicles on ___ ___'s property at ___ ___, Berkeley
> IL, with the permission of the owner, which may be revoked at any
> time.
>
> ___ ___ Date
>
> That ought to be enough.
>
> What I will also do is I will park my truck there and will take
> pictures, which proves that possession was not uninterrupted.
Which is all the more reason to get a couple legal
opinions because very little about _Tapley v. Peterson_
seems intuitive or logical to me.
Note that the word 'interruption' has a specific
legal meaning that has very little to do with the
English word 'interruption'. :)
http://legal-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/interruption
This cite, at least, implies very heavily that your
neighbor was not *legally* interrupted unless you
brought *legal action* against him to prevent him
from parking on your property. If he parks there
after you go home, he had 'uninterrupted' use of
the property, *legally speaking*, based on the
cite above.
This is hugely scary stuff!
--Winston <-- If he offers to improve the property with a nice
new concrete pad, alarm bells should go off for you.
Michael A. Terrell
then ask for the URL?
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Joseph Gwinn
requirement of a contract is that there be "consideration" (=payment).
While payment is most often in money, this is not actually required, and
some of the consideration can be in the form of snowplow services.
But, talk to your lawyer. Adverse possession cases don't happen all
that often.
Joe Gwinn
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
<ignoram...@NOSPAM.21718.invalid> wrote:
>My factory building has two bay type garage doors.
>
>One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
>above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
>ingresses the building.
>
>I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
>big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
>it.
>
>The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
>drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
>is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
>
>I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
>to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
>DIY, or what?
>
>What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
>expectancy and keep water out?
hoist and the crane beam and such out that back door, the only real
solution is a concrete trench drain with cast iron grates that have a
high enough point-load rating to handle the tires and cast iron
casters.
http://www.ndspro.com/trench-drains-and-channel-drains/trench-drain/dura-slope-trench-drain-system/
NDS has a system with precast plastic trench drains with built-in
slope to the end that has the underground drain line - And they have
center drain receivers if there's an old-style single drain in the
middle of the doorway and you want to use that line.
Best part is, it's got Rebar Holders built into the sections so you
can set the grade with rebar stakes and lock it down before embedding
it in concrete. You still want a slight dip down from the doorway to
the drain, but it doesn't need to be much - 1/8" to 1/4" you can
muscle a pallet jack over.
For heavy traffic areas like that loading door they sell galvanized
steel frames for over the top to hold cast iron traffic grates. You
set the plastic trench drain about an inch deeper to make room for the
steel load frame, and allow extra width for the concrete bedding on
both sides.
The rubber threshold is a nice idea, but you'll be damaging it a lot,
and cussing at it even more.
I have to do this at home on a double garage door... But I have to
wait till I core the curb and bring the drain line in, so I know the
depth of trench at the out-flow end - it needs to be flow-through from
the front yard at the other end, and I can't waste any fall.
If you need to stop the last few drops, you put a rubber sweep on the
bottom of the roll-up door - which magically moves up and out of the
way when you open the door.
--<< Bruce >>--
Evan
> My factory building has two bay type garage doors.
>
> One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
> above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
> ingresses the building.
>
> I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
> big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
> it.
>
> The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
> drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
> is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
>
> I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
> to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
> DIY, or what?
>
> What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
> expectancy and keep water out?
As others have suggested, a proper trench drain located in front
of the doors -- not a plastic one but a proper commercial grade
one with the cast iron or steel cover plate for the trench as you
wouldn't want to hear a loud *crunch* when you drive over it with
your forklift...
Won't be cheap but it would solve your issue once and for all...
~~ Evan
Evan
17081.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Ignoramus17081 wrote:
it on paper -- all sorts of contractual rights become implied
and it establishes something of a tenancy/occupancy right
which must be terminated under the appropriate process
required by your local laws...
~~ Evan
ATP
"Ignoramus17081" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.17081.invalid> wrote in message
news:MJWdnWYJhbILywXT...@giganews.com...
>> Ignoramus17081 <ignoram...@NOSPAM.17081.invalid> fired this volley in
>>
>>> I love this solution!
>>
>> You won't, once you've tried it (I can't even _count_ how many ways
>> you'll hate it)!
>>
>> If you need to drive over with a forklift, they have ramps (which you
>> could make up yourself) just for that purpose -- just to make it up over
>> a short curb or some other impediment.
>>
>> Such "dead Irishmen" speedbump materials are available in pre-cast
>> lengths, made from polymers, and able to be hot-melt (hot-stripe road
>> glue, not your craft thing) or epoxied to the (clean) concrete.
>>
>> That, or a re-directing trench just AT the outside face of the doors are
>> the only two ways you're going to keep water out. If you used a narrow
>> trench, then you'd only need a simple plate of steel the get a forklift
>> over it.
>>
>> (did you ever consider that a mass of sand is porous? <G>)
> But hopefully the bags would not be porous. Nevertheless, I agree with
> your argument. I will spend a couple hundred bucks on the proper
> solution.
>
> i
DoN. Nichols
>
> "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
[ ... ]
>> For that matter -- I keep getting e-mails wanting to purchase
>> something machinery related from me -- always listed in parens as though
>> someone was filling in a blank -- and of course wanting to know whether
>> I accept credit cards. :-)
>>
>> "They" also want to know how many models and the prices.
>>
>> Since I don't sell *anything* -- and *especially* anything new
>> -- I always figured that it came from someone going through
>> rec.crafts.metalworking to find possible victims. However, a friend who
>> never has posted here (yes, I know that this is also cross-posted to
>> alt.home.repair, but that is not where *I* found it :-), got one of
>> those recently too, so who knows where they are digging up addresses.
>>
>> Even if I *did* sell things, I certainly would not respond to a
>> request like that. :-)
>
>
> Like the emails where they want to buy something from your website,
> then ask for the URL?
I don't know where they get the addresses from (perhaps in part
from domain registrations), but they are sure mistaken as to what I
sell. :-)
Michael A. Terrell
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
>
> On 2011-10-15, Michael A. Terrell <mike.t...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
>
> [ ... ]
>
> >> For that matter -- I keep getting e-mails wanting to purchase
> >> something machinery related from me -- always listed in parens as though
> >> someone was filling in a blank -- and of course wanting to know whether
> >> I accept credit cards. :-)
> >>
> >> "They" also want to know how many models and the prices.
> >>
> >> Since I don't sell *anything* -- and *especially* anything new
> >> -- I always figured that it came from someone going through
> >> rec.crafts.metalworking to find possible victims. However, a friend who
> >> never has posted here (yes, I know that this is also cross-posted to
> >> alt.home.repair, but that is not where *I* found it :-), got one of
> >> those recently too, so who knows where they are digging up addresses.
> >>
> >> Even if I *did* sell things, I certainly would not respond to a
> >> request like that. :-)
> >
> >
> > Like the emails where they want to buy something from your website,
> > then ask for the URL?
>
> Right!
>
> I don't know where they get the addresses from (perhaps in part
> from domain registrations), but they are sure mistaken as to what I
> sell. :-)
them where they saw my personal website, and ask really stupid
questions. The site states that it's a personal site, and what is
listed for sale is are the only things available. Then I get some idiot
wanting a quote on 10,000 glass fuses, or to buy HP parts from a
compiled HP to OEM list that states that it's just a reference. Any
response from the site with an altered subject line is ignored, since
the subject line matches the page the email me from and every page has a
different title.
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
$1995$607e...@cv.net:
> Sakrete sells a new type of cold patch asphalt that is pretty amazing.
hard surface forklift running over it.(for long, at least)
LLoyd
micky
wrote:
>
>> What sort of structure has a good chance of having a long life
>> expectancy and keep water out?
>> i
>
>appropriate adhesive and big-ass bolts. Any commercial OH door place or
>warehouse supply should have it.
>
>The stuff won't be cheap, but to add new bumps to existing paving and
>not have them fail quickly, is always hard.
A street near me I frequently dirve on had speed bumps put in.
Six months later they put on another layer of asphalt, but not on the
bumps, making the bumps shorter. I like it this way, but the OP
should make sure he doesn't end up doing the same thing.
micky
>My factory building has two bay type garage doors.
>
>One of them faces a parking lot, which happens to be so very slightly
>above the floor level inside the building. So, during a rain, wates
>ingresses the building.
>
>I knew about it when I bought the place and this is basically not that
>big of a deal, as water goes into a drain, and it is not a lot of
>it.
>
>The place used to have an asphalt speedbump-like dam, that let trucks
>drive over it and yet kept water out of the building. That structure
>is in shambles now and, so, water gets in.
\___________/ where the bay is above the dam.
>
>I would like to do it the right way, to keep water out, and to be able
>to drive over it. What should I do, call a concrete guy, asphalt guy,
>DIY, or what?
>
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
wrote:
door to direct the water away, I would dig out the asphalt for a good
two feet in front of the door and use portland cement concrete with
some reinforcement.
Won't keep wind driven water out of the building, but it will redirect
water from a normal rainstorm around and away.
--<< Bruce >>--